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| Kurukulla berthed at Ormos Kamares |
From Ormos Kamares, with Chris, Nigel,
George and Ian safely onboard, we set sail the following morning for
a relatively brisk sail along the south east coast of Kos anchoring
for the afternoon in one of the small, deserted, bays just short of
the eastern tip of the island. From here it was a relatively easy
hop; partly under sail in the gusty conditions, then a short motor;
directly to windward, to get into Kos harbour. The harbour attendant
remembered Kurukulla from her previous visit and greeted us like long
lost friends, provided we paid promptly that is! Berthing, power,
water all sorted we settled down to wait for the final joining crew
member, Dennis, to arrive.
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Berthed in Kos Town
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This he did not long after our arrival and
rather earlier than we had expected. Supper was pasta al ragu
followed by a glass or two.
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| Anchored in Pserimos |
Next morning we all set off for the
largest local supermarket Kos can offer, to victual the boat for the
next few days; it is amazing what six men can eat when in the fresh
air and getting plenty of exercise! Having loaded half a ton of food
and drink (possibly a slight exaggeration) I set off to do battle
with the local authorities to get us legally out of Greece. A trip to
the Port Police, followed by the Immigration Police and Customs
(conveniently situated on the opposite side of the harbour requiring
a half mile walk) and then back to the Port Police (another half
mile) and we were clear to go. We had decided to do a short hop and
anchor for the next night in Pserimos, a small island just north of
Kos and so we motored to windward for an hour to get there quickly
rather than do a two hour beat to windward; a cool swim was the
higher priority. Safely anchored in the southern bay of Pserimos we
set about lunch and a lazy afternoon. In the cool of the evening four
of us climbed to the summit above the anchorage and got some great
photographs of Kurukulla at anchor and the anchorage on the eastern
side where Daniel and I had anchored some months earlier.
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| Turgutreis Marina |
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| Post shopping refreshments! |
Next day we set off, late morning, to
head into Turkish waters and enjoyed a splendid reach across towards
Turgutreis. We anchored in a small cove on the island of Catalada,
which is just short of the marina, for the following night. Next
morning it was time to battle with the bureaucracy again; this time
getting into Turkey. Fortunately in Turgutreis this is fairly simple,
a visit to the marina offices to obtain a new cruising permit
followed by the Customs, Immigration Police and Harbour-master all of
whom are situated on the quarantine quay. In addition we were
permitted to embark bonded stores before leaving the quarantine quay,
an added bonus as Kos has no Duty Free shop! Whilst I was away
sorting out the clearances a charming motor boat owner decided to
leave harbour at 12 knots and not the 4 knots that the limit
requires; the result was a fairlead fractured on Kurukulla,
fortunately no damage to the hull but annoying all the same, pure
thoughtlessness! Sadly not uncommon amongst the breed!
Another visit to a supermarket, a swift
beer at the yacht club and a fuel + water stop at the fuelling
pontoon and we were ready to depart for a downwind sail to Mersincik.
Mersincik is a relatively open anchorage with a small, better
protected, cove on the western side. When we arrived the cove was
full to bursting and the more open anchorage offered limited
opportunities. Making the best of it we prepared to anchor with a
long line ashore between a Dutch yacht and a Turkish Gullet, both of
whom eyed us with much suspicion! The manoeuvre successfully
completed, tied back to an olive tree, we settled down for the night.
It was not to be. Initially the Dutch boat next to us started to drag
his anchor, he re-anchored but without much success; next it was our
turn to drag and so we slipped and recovered the line ashore (with
the assistance of the Dutchman in his dinghy), rested on the Dutch
boats line for a few minutes waiting for the wind to gust in the
other direction (much to the consternation of the Dutch Frau), and
then set off for a better anchorage. The question was where? It was
sunset already! After a few minutes head scratching I settled on
Knidos, a small but very protected anchorage about ten miles away.
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Sailing tour of Knidos harbour
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The only minor problem was that it has a part submerged ancient
breakwater closing the entrance and, with no moon, entry was going to
be tricky. We arrived at 2300, with only the lights on shore to
assist us. I had put a way-point in the GPS immediately in the centre
of the narrow entrance but this was only good for guidance; the entry
had to be done by eye and echo sounder. Fortunately the plan worked
and once inside we picked our way in the darkness, through the anchored boats, and found a suitable place to anchor Kurukulla just inside
the sunken breakwater. During the night several of the larger craft
in the anchorage dragged their anchors and were forced to leave,
fortunately we did not.
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Waterfront at Datca
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Next morning we awoke to a beautiful scene
with the amphitheatre and ancient city of Knidos on our doorstep!
Given that the wind had been strong and from the north (not as
forecast) I dread to think what happened to the folks we left behind
at Mersincik.
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| Lunch at Datca before departure |
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| Anchored at Atabol |
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| Purveyors of fish! |
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| Dinner at Bozburun, at the stern of Kurukulla |
At 1100 we sailed off the anchor, did a
tour of the anchorage to get a better view of the ruins, and then set
course for Datca where we needed to re-provision bread, amongst other
things. Two hours later, which included a swim whilst the boat
drifted, we were in Datca. Here we berthed stern to, needing to avoid the
ballasting which extends further out than is shown in the pilot, and
sent parties ashore for provisions. I set off to top up the Turkcel
SIM card to get us internet connectivity, something I had not managed
in Turgutreis. All this done we settled for lunch ashore and then a
gentle sail along the coast, eastwards, to the bay at Gonlucek where
we anchored for the night. A beautiful, tranquil bay with no
neighbours but millions of wasps! Fortunately they go back to their
nests at dusk! Next morning we sailed off the anchor again and set
off for Bozburun stopping en route in the small dogleg bay just east
of Atabol Burun (Cape Apostoli). Here we discovered a small fishing
boat anchored off the beach and negotiated a purchase of fresh fish
for lunch; delicious, lightly fried in olive oil. Late in the
afternoon we set off again for Bozburun. With no wind motoring was
the order of the day. At 1900 we arrived in Bozburun, negotiated a
table for dinner, right at Kurukulla's stern, from the restaurateur
and then toured the town. Bozburun is small but delightful; everyone
is helpful and cheerful. Later that evening, after a very good meal,
I also got my hair cut at 1045 at night! Hair, beard, etc all for
less than 20 TL i.e. £7.50! Best haircut this year.
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| Anchored of deserted settlement, Karaburun |
Sadly our stay in Bozburun was only one
night and then it was off again to reach Marmaris on time. We motored
in a flat calm for much of the morning until reaching the end of the
Karaburun peninsula. On the western end we found a delightful valley
with an anchorage (just) at its end, tucked right in at the inner end
of a bay. We anchored for lunch and a swim accompanied by goats and
sheep; nothing else was visible in what seemed an extensive but
deserted settlement. After lunch it was a brisk sail,
under foresail only, along the south coast of the peninsula until we
reached Gerbekse. Here we discovered three other boats at anchor, who
between them had managed to monopolise the entire anchorage by not
putting out stern lines. We backed in close by and put a stern line
out, neatly tucked away for the night and clear of their swinging
circles, just! Next morning we were visited by one of the skippers
who had seen Kurukulla's RNSA burgee, he proved to be MEO of HM
Submarine Astute and an ex trainee of mine from Manadon days!
Following a swim and breakfast we set
off for Marmaris. Given the sheer numbers of craft in every anchorage
we decided to just drift for two hours and swim from the boat finally
arriving in Marmaris at 1600. A small piece of negotiation and we
were allocated a very secure berth next to the lifting slip where
Kurukulla was to spend the next ten days whilst all the team,
including me, departed for UK. I was returning home for my parents
70th wedding anniversary celebration.
On my return eight days later Kurukulla
was fine, exactly where I had left her but with a number of the
snagging items from the re-decking completed in my absence by the
contractor, TMS.
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The family at the Platinum Wedding celebration. My father (97, standing) behind my mother (92, seated), on left.
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In two days time I will head off
eastwards, exploring the Turkish coast towards Cyprus. More then.....
