Life in Melbourne

Vanessa & Luna, Melbourne Great Exhibition building

Having, on arrival, intended to spend about three months in Melbourne it is now looking as though I'll be here more like three years! Best I make the most of it! If I had known then what I know now I might have chosen a warmer part of Australia to hole up in; Melbourne in winter is little, if any, warmer than Brighton and Hove, in UK!

Having transferred Yiorgos', my crew's, flight from 5^th of May to 3^rd of June (as reported in the previous Blog) that flight was also cancelled by the airline, Scoot; although they didn't bother telling us so. The reason; Singapore was refusing all transit passengers! We discovered this on the day before he was due to fly and even then, on the airline's App, it showed the flight as confirmed and extant; whereas, on the associated flight schedule it showed no flights leaving Melbourne for Athens (via Singapore). A telephone call, including an hour long wait, confirmed the flight had indeed been cancelled and the airline was not going to schedule any further flights on that route. In addition we were informed “No credit card refund was available” as we had previously transferred the credit from the first cancelled flight to the second cancelled flight via their voucher scheme! The refund claim is now in the hands of Santander Bank and MasterCard!

After several days of searching we eventually found an alternative flight with Qatar Airlines, departing on the 3^rd of June; all good ….. until the 2^nd of June when an article appeared in the Greek press stating that Qatar airways had just been banned from flying to Greece after arriving, the previous day, with numerous Covid cases onboard! A phone call to the airline confirmed this to be true but they initially resisted a request for a refund as the Melbourne – Qatar leg was still operating!

Olinda Falls, Dandenong

After a few choice words from me they agreed that Yiorgos being stranded in Qatar, accommodated a their cost (joys of a full service airline ticket!), with no guarantee of an onward flight, was not to their advantage nor to ours. Eventually they agreed a full refund which would arrive within 4 weeks; which it did.

The problem was now that Yiorgos' approval to stay in Australia, under the terms of his Electronic Travel Authority (ETA – aka paperless Visa), was due to expire on the 9^th of June. A phone call to the visa “Help” line achieved very little other than a suggestion that we should go on their website and look for another visa; one that was obtainable whilst onshore in Australia. Such a visa was available but at a cost of $A340 ~ £180. A bit costly for a few (we hoped) days extra in Australia. I then looked up the Covid “special arrangements” for the issue of visas. Covid visa extensions, at no cost, were available but only to those already on a working visa, in Australia, in essential industries. As Yiorgos' ETA specifically precluded working in Australia he did not qualify; however, it also stated that once application had been made a Bridging Visa would automatically be issued covering the period until a final decision was made. Eureka!

Sunset over Sandringham

On the basis that the wheels would grind slowly, and that Yiorgos would have left Australia before the decision was made, we made the visa request and received the free Bridging Visa by return. Next problem – find a flight!

Fortunately Qatar Airways were authorised to recommence flying to Athens 10 days later and, on 12^th of June, we were able to book yet another flight departing Melbourne on the 15^th. This one finally went. Using Vanessa's car I dropped Yiorgos off at Melbourne Airport at 2000 on the evening of 15^th. I have never seen an international airport so empty! One other car at departures and 6 people in or around the terminal! A ghost town! From there all went well and Yiorgos was back in Paros by late afternoon the following day much to the delight of his family!

North Sunnyside Beach

Since Yiorgos' departure the Covid situation in Melbourne has fluctuated. Initially restrictions were being lifted and recreational boating was permitted again after a two month long ban. That lasted a month, by which time Covid cases had started to get out of control again; second wave! Two weeks ago Stage 3 restrictions were re-introduced but the concession allowing boating and fishing to continue was retained, unlike the first lock-down. That lasted two weeks after which, with infection rates still in the region of 500 per day, we were hit with a Stage 4 lock-down. Currently masks are mandatory when out of your home/boat, a maximum of one hour outdoor exercise per person per day and one shopping trip per household per day is all that is allowed. In addition a curfew has been imposed between 2000 and 0500 and a limit on the maximum travel distance from your residence of 5km. All but essential businesses are closed and the overall situation is being very heavily policed by Victoria State Police, Australian Federal Police, Australian Border Force and Australian Armed Forces; it all feels very oppressive and is not helped by a very small minority of inconsiderate “Smart Alecs” who want to make a “claim to fame” by bucking the system and then posting their stupidity on social media.

LtCdr Rob Ware and I, in SYC

These Stage 4 restrictions are forecast to go on for at least the next 6 weeks, or for as long as it takes for infection rates to decline to manageable levels.

Over the period when boating restrictions were relaxed I managed a few day sail outings with Kurukulla but only short trips from the marina; similarly, I managed a few trips out, by car or train, to the centre of Melbourne and along the coast of Port Philip Bay. All of that has now stopped of course. The slightly bigger problem is that the Sandringham Yacht Club marina and Vanessa's residence are ~7km apart which means, under the current restrictions, I am not officially allowed to travel from one to the other. This would not be particularly troubling if it were not for the fact that the present Melbourne winter, night-time, temperatures are around 1-5ºC and at that temperature life onboard is not that comfortable; Kurukulla having been built for life in the Mediterranean is not fitted with a heating system!

As a consequence I am splitting my time between Vanessa's home and Kurukulla using the pretext that I have to go to her house for the purpose of “receiving care”, which is legal; i.e. to do my laundry and stay warm on the particularly cold nights!

The next challenge is my visa. It allows a maximum stay of 6 months per visit to Australia and my 6 months is up on the 9^th of September, 5 days before the earliest date that total lock-down ends …. bit of a quandary!

Red Bluff anchorage and the hulk of HM Victorian Ship Cerberus, RHS

Given that Vanessa is now a permanent resident in Australia she can sponsor me for an “Aged Parent Visa”; you have to be over 67 to qualify, (I am 70). Minor problem is that the advice from the visa office is that the waiting time for this particular visa is currently 30 years so I will be 100 when I get it! The up side is that you get a Bridging Visa whilst waiting but if you want to leave Australia you have to apply for yet another visa before departure... It goes on and on.... Fortunately, currently all I presently have to do is fill in the 27 pages of forms, pay ~£2000, and wait.

WWI Submarine J7

So what next for Kurukulla. I am now a full member of the Sandringham Yacht Club and perforce contemplating the next year or two, at least, in Australia. The much talked about prospect of a “Tasman travel bubble”, encompassing Australia and New Zealand, is all but history given the current Covid problems in Melbourne/Victoria; hence, if I am able to leave Victoria at all it will be for a 2 month trip to Tasmania in the coming southern summer, if possible starting November, and then possibly a circumnavigation of Australia in the following 12 months.

All of this assumes that a boat that has been in Victoria will be accepted into the other Australian States and Territories. At present all the borders of Victoria are closed to all but essential/commercial traffic. The up side is that the Sandringham Yacht Club has an amazing clubhouse (when it is allowed to open) and a very friendly membership. Within the marina is the hulk of HM Submarine J7, the largest and fastest submarines in the world when built during WW1. It was scuttled to form a breakwater protecting Sandringham anchorage in 1930. As the visiting “Pom” in the club I have even been invited to join in on two of their weekly Podcasts, http://podcasts.oceanmedia.webfactional.com/episode-eleven/ which have been created to help keep the club engaged during the lock-downs.

At this time there is little more to report but I will put another Blog out as and when it is possible to get out on the water again...........

View of Sandringham marina and Melbourne from the masthead

Bermagui to Melbourne.

Track Bermagui to Melbourne

By a stroke of good fortune, when the lock-down of New South Wales was announced on 22 March and all recreational boating banned, we were still berthed in Bermagui. The plan had been to spend the period April to June in Melbourne in order to celebrate my 70th birthday with Vanessa, my daughter, who lives there; however, it ended up being a celebration with a very select group (i.e. the crew, including Christoph, just) and a pressure cooked meal onboard; fortunately with plenty of wine! Bermagui has the advantage of having an excellent supermarket and an even better bottle shop!

Bermagui harbour entrance and salt water pool (with shark net!)

The up side of being in Bermagui was that we ran little risk of encountering the dreaded virus. The number of cases in the whole of Bega Valley County was not much above single figures. The down side was that there was little to do here and very few facilities open. That said the local supermarket was well stocked, the bottle store excellent and best of all there is a really excellent Gelateria in the waterfront buildings of the marina, called the “Gelato Clinic”. The best ice cream I have tasted since leaving Italy!

Francesca from the Gelati Clinic

The down side was the number of sea birds that insisted on perching on the masts or other high structures ready to target the unaware beneath. As soon as we realised we were in for a prolonged stay I ordered a second folding bike for Kurukulla and using them we were able to take our daily exercise cycling around the local area including visiting some of the quieter local beaches and the seawater swimming pools.

One per mast!

Sadly the clamp down on all sporting activities, including fishing, meant that the sea birds were deprived of their usual diet of fish guts provided by the local fishermen. The pelicans in particular seemed to have lost the ability to feed themselves naturally and they were patently going hungry. I didn't see one dive for its prey normally, contrary to what we had witnessed throughout the Caribbean. The birds were not the only ones to have adapted to life around the human race; there were several very large rays that seemed to inhabit the harbour, unperturbed by the chains and structures of the marina, and at least one seal who would relish in playing in the hose discharge over the sides of the fishing boats; that was when he was not playing, in full sight, with the last octopus meal he had caught.

The old bike

All delightful to witness.

Not to be defeated in his efforts to get back to UK (his previous two flights having been cancelled) Christoph booked a third flight for the 6^th of April, this time from Sydney on Air Qatar, via Qatar, arriving London, Heathrow on the 8^th. Fortunately this time it worked; a bus journey all the way to the airport and a flight with no hitches! Phew..... Interestingly there were no health checks on arrival at Heathrow... very lax it would seem … !

Overall Australia seems to have come off very lightly in the virus stakes! After six weeks in Bermagui it was time to move on and, fortunately, I managed to achieve approval to move Kurukulla from Bermagui to Melbourne, some 350 miles, from the Australian Border Force, the Melbourne Marine Police and the Department of Health and Human Services; all three authorities had a say in our plan to move!

Camel Rock, north of Bermagui

In addition I had a berth pre-booked, at the Sandringham Yacht Club, for as long as I need it; only a few km from Vanessa's residence. All we were waiting for now was a suitable weather window; we were now entering the depths of winter down here. Eventually we set off on Tuesday, 5^th of May, with a plan to either sail direct or, if the weather set in from the west, to shelter in Refuge Cove for as many days as were necessary to see the weather system through..

Bermagui river at sunset

Having waited for a suitable weather window we were not intending to hang around. The 400 mile passage was not going to be easy if we didn't get decent weather. In the event, during the first two days, we were plagued by more calms than winds from any direction. On balance we sailed and motored in almost equal quantity. On day two we managed to come upon a survey vessel, doing a survey on the SE Australia oil field which resulted in us being warned off and escorted four miles back the way we had come to avoid the 4 mile long array she was towing!

Final swim at Bermagui

Sadly we didn't have the speed to make it around her bow where she wanted us to give her at least 2 miles clearance. All in a days sailing! We were also greeted by a pod of the largest and most friendly dolphins we have yet come across. They spent at least half an hour swimming under the bow, frequently swimming on their side to be able to look up and look you straight in the eye. They seem to have the same desire for human contact that you see in domestic dogs!

By 0700 on day three we were approaching Refuge Cove, a small but very sheltered anchorage on the eastern side of Cape Wellington. It was here that we had determined that we had to make the decision to either hold over whilst the next low pressure system went through or make a final dash for Melbourne. We entered the bay on an almost flat calm, settled for breakfast at anchor, and then lost patience!

Sunrise in Bass Strait

We opted for the dash! Three hours later we were to the west of Cape Wellington, bashing to windward in a lumpy sea and 30 knots of wind over the deck; … c'est la vie .. we were now committed and on our way. That night was cold and wet but at least by 0400 we were in reach of Port Philip entrance (the bay in which Melbourne resides), the only problem was that we needed to wait for 0900, or there abouts, before we could enter due to the strong currents and over-falls in the narrow entrance.

Oil drilling rig on the SE Australian field

We hove to and waited until 0700 when we got underway again. By 1000 we were through the entrance and heading up the western channel. As we reached the northern end of the channel we were intercepted by a Marine Police launch

Departing Refuge Cove

demanding to know why we were out “recreational” sailing in defiance of the lock-down. It was good to know that their information flow was just as bad as the ABF between Canberra and Sydney, we had had a similar problem on our initial arrival in Australia! Having accepted our explanation they departed again and three hours later we were berthed in the Sandringham Yacht Club marina, enjoying an early night and an opportunity to catch up on some lost sleep! I had had only four hours in the past 48 due to shipping and weather conditions.

Lighthouse on SE point of Wilson's Promontary, Victoria

The following day, having managed to sort out the administration arrangements of the marina, we were visited by Vanessa and her dog, Luna, who seemed to settle to life onboard a boat very quickly.

My birthday celebration with Vanessa

We were now allowed, under the virus restrictions, to visit Vanessa and her partner Craig at their apartment due to it being one of our two legitimate “places of residence” in Melbourne and hence we returned with her for a belated celebration of my 70^th birthday; a great pleasure and totally unexpected.

Yiorgos, my other crew member, was also programmed to return to Greece on the 5^th of May; however, that flight was also cancelled! Fortunately we have been able to transfer the booking to the 3^rd of June, with the same airline, allowing him to depart four days before his visa runs out!

Luna looking pleased to be onboard

It was the first flight we could, get direct to Greece, after the airline opened again for bookings. We wait with bated breath to see whether this flight actually goes and if so what quarantine restrictions there will be on arrival.

As far as future plans for Kurukulla and I are concerned nothing is fixed. In the original plan we were going to head up through Papua New Guinea and Indonesia before spending next Christmas in the Philippines but that now looks to be highly unlikely, that part of the world has yet to show any sign of getting on top of the virus and borders are likely to remain closed for some time yet, probably a year or so at least.

Sandringham Yacht Club and marina

That being the case I am looking at the prospect of keeping Kurukulla in Melbourne for the winter and then heading back to New Zealand for part of next summer, Dec/Jan. It looks as though Australia and New Zealand are likely to open up travel between the two much earlier than other destinations. After that who knows... Vanessa is suggesting I might even relocate permanently to Australia!

Sandringham Yacht Club with Melbourne CBD in background.

More when I know what is going to happen next ….......

New Zealand, (Nelson) to Australia, (Sydney) then …....?

We departed from Nelson, New Zealand, at 1400 after obtaining clearance from the most charming Customs Official I have ever met. Kurukulla got off to a slow start, on the wind beating north; how else would it be? The first 50 miles were due north... As we approached Bush End Point, (the most easterly end of the amusingly named Farewell Spit), at the northern end of Golden Bay, the wind veered and we were able to bear away on to a close reach and take a route north east to gain some ground to the north and hopefully benefit from better winds. This strategy worked for the first 250 miles at which stage the wind suddenly backed, as forecast, and within an hour we were back on a reach but this time port gybe! This sudden change created a lumpy and confused sea that was to last until we arrived in Sydney making this a far from comfortable passage; but it was quick! On day three we saw the most amazing dolphin frenzy that I have ever seen, literally hundreds of them leaping from the waves heading, at high speed, in a common direction and completely ignoring us. There must have been something very tasty in the offing! A second smaller pod passed soon after, similarly heading in the same direction.

Two days later we happened upon two whales; asleep, alongside each other, floating gently in the waves; we only noticed them when they were about 50m ahead and we passed within 20m; they seemed unaware of our presence and continued their snooze, both sending regular “blows” into the air above them. The closest we have come so far and to be honest, if we had spotted them earlier we might not have gone so close! The only other wildlife of note was our first sightings of albatross, several of which came to investigate us during the middle part of the crossing.

A grey Sydney Harbour Bridge and Opera House!

At just over half way we had another rapid wind shift, this time putting us back on to port gybe, and sustaining the lumpy sea, so lumpy in fact that we resorted to our tinned food stocks for supper on two consecutive nights, it was too rough to risk cooking with pans of boiling water; this did not meet with approval from Yiorgos who, born and living on a farm, had never been treated to such “delicacies”... Hot and filling were about the only two adjectives that could be used to describe it...

By midday of day seven we were 100 miles short of Sydney having completed 1100 miles to that point. We were making good time and were a full day ahead of the schedule I had set, meaning that I needed to adjust the Estimated time of Arrival (ETA) I had given to the Australian Customs. This is where the Garmin SE+ with its e-mail/SMS facility, via satellite, comes in so useful! That and being able to get tailored weather forecasts for any precise position in the oceans at any time needed (Not to mention it has a 24/7 distress message facility, which I hope never to need!). The day itself was the best weather and conditions that we had seen since leaving Nelson, a bright sunny day, calmer, more organised seas and a beautiful sunset to top the day off. That of course led into a night of frustration with no wind and flogging sails! By 0200 I had had enough and to meet our declared ETA for Sydney Customs and Immigration we resorted to the engine for the last 25 miles.

At 0700 we passed through Sydney Heads and into Sydney Harbour, heading to Neutral Bay, where the Australian Border Force have their Sydney base. Having sent all the necessary advance notifications to the required e-mail address we arrived in Sydney to be greeted by blank looks and zero prior knowledge of our arrival; fortunately I had the “paper trail” in the form of my e-mails and the replies from the HQ in Canberra. Within three hours we had resolved the situation and the Border Force and Bio Security officials had all been and gone (Immigration and Customs, both handled by Border Force personnel, is a free service; Biosecurity charge $Aus420 (£240) per boat; it is obviously a growth industry here in Australia as well!

Sydney from the Botanic Gardens

From Neutral Bay we moved to Rushcutters Bay and a berth in the Cruising Yacht Club of Australia marina; sadly the Royal Australian Naval Sailing Association (RANSA), (affiliated to the Royal Naval Sailing Association (RNSA), of which I am a member), who are almost next door, were not able to offer us a buoy/berth. A brief tour of the Bay area, on foot, was followed by dinner in the CYCA and a much anticipated early night!

Sydney Opera House and Bridge

Here we were to stay for 7 days doing the sights and sounds of Sydney; Opera House, Bridge, North Shore etc; even a day on the beach! Our final two days in the marina were miserable! Pouring rain, all day, both days. Other than that the weather was not bad and certainly warmer than New Zealand.

On Monday 16^th of March we re-victualled from the nearby supermarket (which was moderately well stocked despite the Corona virus panic buying – eggs, long life milk and toilet paper shelves all empty!)

Sydney from "The Rocks" under the bridge

After that it was pay the marina bill and refuel on departure before heading for a mooring in the shelter of Watson's Bay, ready for a relatively quick departure through the heads the next day and our first leg southwards. Despite the south easterly wind forecast for the next day it seemed worth getting underway even if we only made it the 12 or so miles to Port Hacking.

We departed Sydney Harbour at 1000 and arrived in Port Hacking at 1600 after a beat to windward, grey skies all the way but not unpleasant. The anchorage, just inside Port Hacking Point, is great.

Sydney Harbour Bridge from north shore

A sandy bay, well sheltered from the easterly swell, and with 6 moorings all of which are free to use. New South Wales has a system where the Roads and Ports Authority lay moorings for anyone to use, free of charge, as part of their efforts to stop damage to the seabed and the seagrass etc. growing there. Very generous.

Next morning we were to depart at 0630, first light, in an effort to make Jervis Bay before nightfall. The forecast was for light northerly winds and on this basis we were anticipating a slow passage. We were right. The wind was no more than 10 kts as we left the anchorage and as we turned southwards it was obvious we were going to be motor-sailing for a large part of the day if we wanted to keep up any decent speed. As we passed the port of Unanderra, by Flinders Island, we passed two large cruise ships, at anchor, alongside several cargo ships. Our sympathies went out to any passengers left onboard who had invested in a cruise and found themselves anchored off the coast with nowhere to go.

Sunset at Jervis Bay

More casualties of the Coronavirus outbreak! In the end the wind did as forecast if not better and by the time we reached Jervis Bay we were doing 7.5 knots with 10+ knots of wind over the deck; the only minor downside was that once in the bay we had a wet and windy 2.5 mile beat to windward to reach our chosen anchorage, off Long Beach; it is part of the RAN firing range but fortunately there was no firing today. All in a days sailing!

Next morning it was another relatively early start and again there was next to no wind. We weighed anchor at 0730 and motored out of Jervis Bay, heading for Bateman's Bay where we planned to pick up a mooring in Chain Bay.

The good news was that the East Australian current carried us south at over 1.5kts; the not so good news is that we will have to battle this current on the return leg, when going north, in ten weeks time! Four hours later and we were still motoring through oily calm waters with no sign of the promised northerly wind of 10kts. C'est la vie.

Chain Bay in Bateman's Bay.

In the end we motor-sailed all the way, anchoring in Chain Bay at 1500 and settling down to a swim and relaxing late afternoon. Many of the hillsides around the bay looked black and scorched from the recent bush fires and now there is Coronavirus; as if they haven't suffered enough! Our original plan had been to enter the marina at Bateman's Bay in order that I could visit my Assistant from my days working in the British High Commission in Malta and who now lives in the Bay; a telephone call to the marina office put pay to that idea. Although charted at 2m (meaning we can get in at anything over half tide) the entrance is actually around 1m in depth meaning we might get in at high tide but if the swell gets up it might be impossible to get out again; the good news was that the channel is due to be dredged in the near future and so may be an option when we head back north. We opted to move on next day!

Bermagui Marina and "town"

As the sun rose above the horizon we set off again. We had awoken to a brisk NW wind of 10 – 15 kts. Ideal … but within 15 minutes of sailing off the anchor the sun had risen and the wind had dropped to near zero! Just our luck! It appeared we are in for another day of motor-sailing, at best, and a tedious 40 mile voyage to the marina at Bermagui. That was until the wind did a 2 minute volte face and filled in from the south at 20 kts, bang on the nose! We motored on for an hour more until we could free off enough to sail into the bay at

Bermagui, at which stage we were able to make 6 kts directly towards the entrance. By 1530 we were securely tied up alongside and enjoying a late lunch in the cockpit. All in a days sailing!

Bermagui Marina and entrance

With the forecast wind due to stay in the south for three days or so we were committed to stay here until it changed. That said the town looked very welcoming and according to Keith, the marina owner, there was not a case of Coronavirus within 150 miles! As we sat there in Bermagui the forecast for heading south deteriorated. With the risk of not making it back to UK before travel restrictions made it impossible Christoph decided to make a dash for Melbourne, via bus to Bairnsdale and then train to Melbourne, leaving Yiorgos and I to take Kurukulla onwards to Melbourne in slower time.

Armands Beach, 10km south of Bermagui

Too late! Having booked a new flight to UK (via Bangkok with Thai airways) the night before, he set off at 0600 on Monday for an 8 hour bus and train journey to Melbourne, whilst he was en route we heard that Thailand had instigated entry restrictions requiring those in transit to hold a certificate showing them to be free of Coronavirus (Only in the Thai language version did it say you needed a laboratory test which takes 72 hours to get). Fortunately or unfortunately a fellow passenger was able to set up an appointment with a doctor in Melbourne to get a certificate.

This did not resolve the problem, as became apparent when Christoph tried to check in at 2200 and was refused boarding along with all other passengers for the same flight;

(No passenger, even the Thai speakers, could meet the requirement for laboratory testing within the timescale).

Mimosa Rocks (named after 1860 Paddle Steamer sinking here)

Fortunately he was able to stay with my daughter in Melbourne for a couple of nights and 48 hours after his departure he set off to retrace his journey back to Bermagui! Strangely the connecting bus service from Bairnsdale to Bermagui was still running but the reverse journey has been withdrawn! By 1745 Wednesday he was back onboard having completed a 700 mile round trip to go nowhere. 

It now seems that having completed two thirds of our circumnavigation (30°E to 150°E via the western hemisphere) we are destined to stay in Bermagui until the Coronavirus storm passes over.

Pelican beauty parade at fish gutting time, Bermagui

As yet there is no forecast as to how long that might be but there are worse places in the world to be at this moment, good beaches, national parks etc. and at least here the virus is currently a remote threat; we have all the resources we need to remain here as long as it takes. Once the storm passes we will then reconsider our options and decide where to go next and how to complete the circumnavigation.

Wallaby in Mimosa National Park

I hope all who read this are staying well and if you are unfortunate enough to have contracted the virus that you make a speedy recovery.

More when we leave; whenever that may be........

New Zealand - From start to finish....

BoI Marina from the masthead

Following our arrival in Opua Marina, Bay of Islands, I was very soon on my way back to UK for a three week sojourn, out of the sun. In the event the weather in NZ and the weather in UK were remarkably similar, but for the fact that UK was descending into winter and NZ moving towards summer. My time back in UK was busy! In what seemed no time at all I was back at Heathrow airport, boarding a plane for the return flight to NZ along with Yiorgos, a Greek friend, who was coming out for a spell on Kurukulla.

Auckland winter gardens

After an overnight in Auckland, getting to know a little of the city, we set off by bus for Opua and the marina a little after midday; it was a four hour bus ride away. NZ really has very few long distance passenger railways; all railways north of Whangarei on North Island are now closed standfast one small preserved railway which is slowly reopening the line, from Kawakawa (the home of the famous Hundertwasser public toilets)

Hundertwasser toilets, Kawakawa

to Opua, as a tourist attraction. On the outward leg, for speed, I flew Kerikeri to Auckland airport but I decided we would see more of NZ from a bus on the return leg. In the interim, Nick, a friend of Christoph's had also flown out and we were to be four onboard Kurukulla until Christmas when my daughter Vanessa was due to join us, from Melbourne.

Stone Store and Missionary Station, Kerikeri

Our initial plan was to complete some minor maintenance before departure and then head off for a few days cruising the Bay of Islands (BoI) before heading south to Auckland. As ever plans are a basis for change..... A delay to the return of the anchor and chain from re-galvanising meant that we had a four or five day wait for its return; in the interim we hired a car and drove up to Cape Reinga (the most north-westerly tip of North Island)

Cape Reinga

and back, over two days, calling at the 90 mile beach (actually ~56 miles long) and various other scenic points along the way.

We eventually departed BoI Marina in the afternoon of the 3^rd of December having said our goodbyes to the marina staff, to J&B Marine who had been doing some of the work on Kurukulla, to Sue the Royal Naval Sailing Association HLO (Honorary Local Officer) who had been a complete treasure and to Tom and 'Bobby' (aka Brenda), they had been great friends and supporters of my family members who, until their death, lived in Kerikeri on the BoI and who had now become firm friends of ours as well.

Lookout over Cooks Cove, Motuarohia Island

Over the next few days we sailed from island to island, anchorage to anchorage around the BoI, ranging from Whale Bay on the north shores to the deserted Cavalli Islands at the northern side of the entrance to BoI, to Deep Water Bay in the Eastern extremity before rounding Cape Brett to head southwards. The range and variety of anchorages is astounding and, notwithstanding the number of boats in the BoI, it is surprisingly un-crowded.

Cape Brett, first time around!

Just after midday on the 11^th of December we rounded Cape Brett, in moderate winds and some relatively heavy seas, heading south for an anchorage in Whangamumu Harbour, about 6 miles south of the Cape; that is until an hour later when the forestay parted! Immediately our two spare halyards were attached to the bow to replace the support to the mast normally provided by the forestay. Fortunately the Genoa halyard survived the brief experience of being the only thing holding the mast up! Thereafter, having stowed all sail, we turned 180° and motored back to Opua, arriving at 1730. En route I telephoned Northland Spars and Rigging and arranged for them to visit the following morning to discuss options for repair. Having already had to replace the lower shrouds, after one started to unravel after departure from Panama, I had already decided to replace all the other standing rigging during our forthcoming prolonged spell in Melbourne around Easter 2020; the forestay parting caused this item of maintenance to be brought forward!

Next morning Rob from NSR duly arrived and we set about arranging for the mast to be removed and the rigging replaced. The mast was set to be craned out in the early morning of the 13^th of December and it was thus an ideal opportunity to undertake all the other more minor items that were outstanding, like fitting a Tricolour to the mast head, replacing the Steaming/Deck flood light and giving the mast a thorough survey. Notwithstanding all of this Rob was 90% confident that the package could be contained in the time available before they shut down for two weeks over Christmas, on the 20^th of December.

Christmas in Opua Marina......

This would still allow us to be in Auckland to meet up with Vanessa by the 23^rd as planned. On this basis Christoph and Nick set off for a brief tour of South Island whilst Yiorgos and I settled down to a period overseeing the mast work and tackling a few other items of maintenance onboard such as re-plumbing the forward heads to resolve blocked pipework and a seized tank/overboard diverter valve; Oh joy!

Look no mast

Unfortunately, despite his best endeavours, Rob and NSR were unable to complete the mast work prior to the shutdown. Competing, pre programmed, work simply made it impossible. For this reason we resorted to 'Plan C'. Yiorgos and I would hire a car and drive to Auckland, join Vanessa in her hotel for the night of the 22^nd, Christoph and Nick would arrive in Auckland and join us on the 23^rd and we would all then head for the apartment that I had rented for Christmas on Waiheke Island, by car ferry! Not quite the mooring off the beach for Kurukulla that I had intended! Notwithstanding the change of plan we had an excellent Christmas on the Island, turkey lunch on the beach on Christmas Day plus a tour of a few of the restaurants and wineries thrown in. On Boxing Day we caught the ferry back to Auckland, dropped Christoph and Nick off at their hotel, (Nick was flying back to UK on the 29^th) and Yiorgos, Vanessa and I set off for Opua and the marina once again.

In the following days we met up again with Tom and Bobby, spent a day travelling around Northland by car and a couple of nights on a mooring in Waitata (Donkey) Bay, (as a motor-boat, without mast!), enjoying one of the best beaches near Opua.

Red skies over Donkey Bay caused by the Australian bush fires

We were fortunate to make the acquaintance of Antonio, the Italian owner of the land backing on to the beach, who very kindly invited us to use his mooring as and when we wanted; extremely generous. Over New Year we were again on the mooring and able to walk over the hill to Russell, the township that was once the second missionary and trading post established in north island NZ after the Kerikeri Stone Store and it's adjacent missionary station.

Russell waterfront

It was the ideal spot to celebrate New Year and to see the impressive firework display being set off from a barge moored halfway between Russell and Paihia. 1^st of January dawned bright and clear; more than could be said for the Kurukulla crew! After a leisurely 48 hours on Antonio's mooring we finally headed back to Opua and the marina.

Vanessa at Mataii Bay

On the 2^nd of January Yiorgos and I drove Vanessa down to Auckland to catch her flight back to Australia, leaving Christoph to look after Kurukulla. Having put Vanessa on her flight we then spent the night in Auckland in order to meet up with long standing work friends of mine from the days when I worked in the MoD Procurement Executive, handling contracts for the design and production of aircraft handling systems; working with, amongst others, MacTaggart Scott in Edinburgh. After a thoroughly enjoyable lunch with Tony and Trish, (he was the MacTaggart Scott Chief Design Engineer at the time), we set off again to drive back to Opua. Unfortunately there had been a fatal pile up on Highway 1 resulting in the road being closed. The scarcity of roads in NZ means that diversions are frequently neither short nor easy. After about 50 km on unsurfaced (white) roads we were back on Highway 1 but with a car that looked as though it had just been driven across the Sahara desert! Comprehensively covered in dust! Life would have been so much simpler if we had managed to stick to Plan A or B and had Kurukulla in Auckland for Christmas!

Mast on it's way back in ....

By 8^th January the mast was ready to go back in and by the 10^th we were ready to set sail again. After departing Opua in the mid afternoon, for the what we thought would be the last time, we headed out into the bay and gave the mast the best trial we could, in the prevailing light winds, ending up on Antonio's mooring. The only problem revealed was the wind sensor on the mast, which had been misbehaving for some weeks and was still not working despite a new cable being installed. One for later! Next day we made a leisurely passage to Otehei Bay, on Urupukapuka Island, again testing all that we could before, next day, rounding cape Brett for the second time and sailing down the coast to Bland Bay; here we sailed onto the anchor at 1700 and settled for the evening. Next morning we set off at 0900 intending to head for the Hen and Chicken Islands but the winds had other ideas! By mid day we were not far south of the bay and it was evident that without motoring for hours on end we were not going to make it before nightfall and hence we diverted into Mimiwhangata Bay where we found shelter at the east end of the bay; the forecast was for a windy night, with winds from the south east, and heavy rain. They were right! Next morning dawned windy, grey and wet (just like sailing in UK!). The SE winds were in exactly the wrong direction to carry us towards Auckland and hence we decided we were going no where until it improved.........

Finally, after two days we were off again. The winds remained in the SE but had moderated somewhat. At 1030 we set out for a bumpy ride to get as far down the coast as we could.

Anchored in Whale Bay

By 1400 we were 10 miles down the coast, off Whale Bay, near Matapouri, and decided that was enough. The prospect of a secluded, sheltered and sandy bay was too tempting. In fact the bay was so sheltered that we took some time to manoeuvre in to it under sail but, after a frustrating 15 minutes, eventually we were safely anchored. Later in the afternoon Yiorgos and I rowed ashore to walk to Matapouri; we needed some fresh victuals and there was reportedly a general store in the beachside village. It was a delightful coastal walk with a short cut back via the road making the return, laden with shopping, much easier.

Next morning we set off at 0900, again intending to get as far south-eastwards down the coast as possible. Today was more successful and by sunset we were ghosting into Boulder Bay in the Chicken Islands, at the entrance of the small boat passage between Lady Alice and Whatupuke Island, having achieved some 25 miles down the coast. Here we joined two other sailing boats for the night and spent the night gently rolling in the swell with no wind.

The next day we awoke to much the same, an almost flat calm. With the current flowing through the gap between the islands we were lying with our stern to the little wind that there was and so we sailed off the anchor under genoa alone. Ten minutes later we were clear enough to hoist the mainsail and from there we headed off, in a light breeze to pass through the smaller islands at the western end of the group and onwards towards Auckland. In the westerly breeze we were making 2-3 knots so nothing exciting! By mid afternoon we had to give up on our aim of sailing all the way from Opua (Bay of Islands) to Auckland and resorted to the engine for the final 10 miles; disappointing but not worth spending the night at sea for! By 1900 we were anchored in Vivian Bay on Kawau Island, a very sheltered anchorage some 25 miles from Auckland.

Sunday dawned much like the previous day. There was enough wind to sail off the anchor and beat southwards down the channel between Kawau Island and the mainland shore around Warkworth but by the time we reached the southern end of the channel the wind had dropped to almost zero and we again resorted to the engine. I had the marina berth booked in Auckland for the Monday and we didn't want to delay our arrival again; we had already missed one booking a month before! By 1530 we were anchored in Little Palm Beach on the island of Waiheke, we had arrived in the place we had originally planned in Plan A but 4 weeks behind schedule! C'est la vie!

Westhaven Marina, Auckland on arrival

Next day we moved into Westhaven Marina in Auckland city centre, right in the shadow of the Auckland Harbour Bridge. Here we were to stay for three days preparing for the journey back north and around Cape Reinga. Our plan had been to go south to reach Wellington but after discussions with locals in the marina office it became evident that going back north and down the west coast of North Island was by far the better choice in terms of weather and winds and only involved 50 additional miles, a “no brainer” they said, as it avoided the potentially very unpleasant beat into Wellington from the east. That evening we enjoyed a very enjoyably dinner in the splendid surroundings of the Royal New Zealand Yacht Squadron, surrounded by the trophies from their Americas Cup wins amongst others. “And so to bed”.....

On the Tuesday we hosted Sarah and Joe to drinks onboard (Sarah is the sister of two of my godsons') plus their two delightful daughters Lily and Emily.

Emily and Lily

Lily was overjoyed at being on a yacht, Emily rather less so, but what do you expect at 6 months old?

Wednesday was re-victualling plus re-installing the repaired masthead wind sensor. I had been struggling with this for a pair of weeks but finally managed to get a spare wiring loom, price $40NZ, and that did the trick, rather better than $450 for a new unit! By the end of the day I had been up the mast, re-installed it, and all was working satisfactorily. Thus it was Thursday morning we hauled back out of the marina berth, refuelled at the refuelling pontoon and then headed back to Little Palm beach on Waiheke Island for a last night there before heading to Barrier Island.

After a night at anchor at Little Palm we sailed off the anchor heading for Barrier but light winds were to confound our plans once again and, as sunset threatened to render our arrival in the Barrier group after dark, we decided to divert slightly and spend a night at anchor in Port Jackson Bay, at the very end of the Coromandel peninsula; a wide open bay but protected from the prevailing winds and swell. Notwithstanding its remoteness the back of the beach was lined by campers of every form from small tents to large camper-vans.

Next morning we set off again on a 16 mile, close reach, across to Bowling Alley Bay, our first port of call in the Barrier Islands. Here we spent the night in fantastic surroundings as one of only two boats in this beautiful bay with its steep green sides and secure holding.

Oneura Bay (aka Redcliffe Cove), Barrier Islands

From here, next morning, we sailed off the anchor and headed for Oneura Bay just outside Man of War Passage, the entrance to Port Fitzroy. From Google Earth (a normally great source of information prior to arrival in an anchorage) we thought the inner end of this bay had a good, sandy, beach. We were wrong! After sailing up the sheltered waters between Rangiahua Island (aka Flat Island) and Great Barrier Island itself we turned into the bay to be greeted by an oyster farm. Fortunately this was near the entrance and there was plenty of room in the bay to anchor. Once anchored we set off in the dinghy to research the beach. Ooze, lots and lots of ooze along the waterline, only at the back of the beach, above the high water mark, was there a narrow band of sand. The fresh water spring, “suitable for bathing” according to the pilot book, at the eastern end of the beach was a mere trickle running through a series of green and stagnant pools, not quite as described. We returned onboard slightly disillusioned but passed a pleasant night nonetheless, in the company of several late arrivals who obviously knew this to be a good anchorage but not a daytime bay!

With only a few miles to sail we opted for a late-ish start the following day. At 1100 we sailed off the anchor and sailed slowly into Port Fitzroy through the 100m wide “Man of War Passage”. Once in, having negotiated the flooky winds in the entrance, we sailed slowly north, leaving by the northern entrance of Port Fitzroy and entering Port Abercrombie. All of these “Ports” are in reality just well protected bays. Our destination was Nagle Cove, at one time a shipbuilding venue and where the largest wooden sailing ship ever built in New Zealand was built, the three masted barque Stirlingshire. Today there is little to show for this industrial past, on the foreshore are a few houses and one farm, each with their own jetty but little else; the surroundings are however stunningly beautiful.

Whilst on passage I took the opportunity to call ahead and check whether Mana marina, near Wellington, where we intended to berth Kurukulla whilst visiting the city, was actually deep enough in the approaches for us to enter. Almost all of the ports and estuaries on the west coast of North Island are heavily silted with sand bars at the entrance. I was glad I had called! The answer was that unless it was very calm and we entered almost on the top of the tide we were not going to get in. Not only that but if we had not been re-antifouled in the previous six months (or had a certificate confirming a bottom scrub in the past month) we were not going to be allowed in! Our last antifoul was in Panama, 10 months back! Even worse, all marinas in South Island apply the same criteria! Time for a change of plan.... I phoned Opua Marina and within five minutes had booked a lift out for the following Monday and a splash on the Wednesday; time for a rapid re-antifoul; one less job to do in Melbourne!

To meet the revised programme we intended to depart Nagle Cove in darkness, at 0500, in order to enjoy a long day sailing north and make ground back towards Opua. At 0500 there was not a breath of wind hence we retired for an extra two hours and awaited a change! By 0700 things were slightly better and we ghosted off the anchor and out of the bay without difficulty. By 0800 we were making good speed, NW, under spinnaker. It was not to last! By 1100 we had to abandon the spinnaker and by 1130 we were hard on the wind. Our rapid sail north became a slow beat to windward and thus we decided to visit yet another set of islands, the Mokohirau Islands, specifically the “Landing” anchorage at Pokohinu (Burgess) Island.

Burgess Island lighthouse

This island is the location of one of the original lighthouses on this coast and the landing was the keepers re-supply facility, now long abandoned after the light went un-manned. The beach and bay are large boulders worn by the sea, not great holding but fortunately we held well as overnight the wind got up and shifted 90º from NW to SW. Whilst Christoph stayed onboard to look after Kurukulla Yiorgos and I set off ashore to investigate the lighthouse.

Landing anchorage, Burgess Island, Mokohinau Islands

A steep climb up the 108m high incline of the old tramway and a pleasant 1km walk back by a far gentler footpath.

Next morning we awoke to a brisk SW wind and at 0700 we set off, under sail, to make the best of it. A short cut through 75m wide “Edith Passage” between Burgess and Motupapa Islands and we were on our way. A brisk beam reach doing 6+ knots, fantastic ..... but ….. by 1000 we were becalmed …. again. This time we decided to use the engine and started it for the first time since we had motored out of Westhaven Marina, six days before, not bad! Two hours later the wind filled in from the north and we were back under sail, hard on the wind on starboard tack, heading for Matapouri Bay; near Whale Bay, one of our anchorages we used on the way south. By 1530 we were settled in the northern end of the bay, in 3.5m, happily anchored on sand. Time for tea!

From Matapouri Bay we set out at 0900 intending to reach Whangamumu Harbour, by sunset, 25 miles to windward. In the event we made better progress than expected and sailed onto the anchor, off the old whaling station at Whangamumu, at 1730.

Old whaling station at Whangamumu Harbour

The anchorage is delightful, a large enclosed area of water, mostly 5-10m deep, with a narrow entrance making it protected from almost all wind directions. An ideal place for the night. Next morning Yiorgos and I went ashore to research what remains of the whaling station, which is not much! The site must have seemed ideal to the men who originally worked there.

Commemorative plaque at Whangamumu whaling station.

Behind the station is a fresh water stream and waterfall providing them with limitless freshwater for their needs combined with the totally protected harbour and slipway. After the trip ashore, by 1130, we were underway again,

Rounding Cape Brett for the final time

In light winds but perfect sunshine we rounded Cape Brett for the last time and headed into the Bay of Islands again with the intention of anchoring for Friday night in Opourua Bay before spending a final night on Antonio's mooring in Donkey Bay and berthing in the marina on Sunday late afternoon.

Back in Opua Marina

All went to plan …...... that is until we lifted out! Once the bottom had been pressure washed it was evident there was a blister, weeping water, on the starboard side of rudder skeg. This weakness has been a constant problem since the day I purchased Kurukulla 14 years ago. Both sides have been repaired by various boatyards but unfortunately I have always entrusted them the job in my absence (due to spending winters in UK and summers sailing).

Opening the blister that led to the skeg rebuild.

Investigation revealed this “minor problem” was actually the result of several previous “bodged” repairs and that both sides of the skeg were equally unsatisfactory.

Steve and the skeg repair

A rapid hack at both sides revealed layers of repair each as poorly done as the previous, Graham of Opua Boat Builders and his fibreglass man Steve agreed to take on the job of rebuilding the skeg to a design and standard that we all agreed; James of JB Marine agreed to do the mechanical aspects of dropping the rudder out;

Almost there

thus a two day quick re-antifoul became a twelve day skeg repair and a leisurely re-antifoul!

Complete ready to antifoul

The up side was that it gave us a second opportunity to see Bobby and Tom, my friends from Kerikeri.

Ready to splash

Our splash was booked for Friday, 14 February; after a brief engine and steering trial, we refuelled at Opua, spent the final night in the marina, and then set off northwards at 0600 on the Saturday morning. 14 days later than planned. This delay also brought with it another problem, Yiorgos' visa was due to expire on 21 February and we were now not going to leave New Zealand in time! For some reason EU citizens get 3 month visas on arrival but UK citizens 6 months. After endless on-line form filling and a payment of $NZ240 (£120) we sat back and waited to see whether it would be granted.

Whangaroa Harbour on a grey day, Taken from Pekapeka Bay

By mid afternoon Saturday we were anchored in Ramfurly Bay, Whangaroa Harbour, a rugged but beautiful anchorage just to the north west of the entrance. Initially we had it all to ourselves but that was too good to last and by nightfall we had been joined by two other yachts. Next morning we were underway again by 0730 to catch the last f the ebb tide flowing out of the harbour. Initially we had a relatively brisk beam reach north westwards towards Maitai Bay, our next anchorage (one we had visited by road during the Christmas/New Year period). As we rounded Pihakoa Point the wind died away to nothing and so, despite our better intentions, we motored the final 2 miles and came to anchor, on sand, in 4m, in the north western corner of the bay, at 1400. Here we were out of the swell (just) and were able to spend a comfortable night.

Monday morning saw us underway again at 0830 and heading north west towards North Cape, the most northerly tip of North Island. Although the wind was light we were able to carry the spinnaker until we were within 5 miles of the Cape, after that, the wind having headed us, we had to revert to the genoa. This was fine until we passed the Cape, when we again hoisted the spinnaker, but by this stage the tide was running against us and the wind fading to nothing. Eventually, after an hour and a half making only one knot overground we opted for the engine in order to make Cape Reinga before the tide turned foul again for the passage south. We eventually rounded Cape Reinga at midnight. By 0400 the wind had returned along with the occasional rain shower. This lasted until 1400 the following afternoon when the wind died again and went from light easterly to even lighter westerly! Back on went the engine! I did not want to be drifting for days on this coast awaiting the next heavy weather system to come barrelling in from Australia!

Dolphins playing under the bow, en route South Island

For the next two days the routine was the same, sailing when we had enough wind to make two to three knots or more and motoring at 6 knots when the wind died. Throughout this period the sky was partly clouded over but any wind this might have promised failed to arrive!

Mount Egmont, seen on a flat calm day on passage.

Some wind eventually arrived on Wednesday morning in the form of a light west south westerly breeze, getting up to 10 knots and meaning the Kurukulla took off at 6.5 knots towards our next way point, off New Plymouth, still 140 miles away to the south. It was not to last however and twelve hours later we were back to the fitful breezes and frustrations of before.

Sunset en route to South Island

Our only moment of amusement was when we sailed up to a pair of seals lazing on the surface who patently had not seen or heard us coming; they dived the moment they saw us but then surfaced in our wake looking quizzically in our direction.

The horrid forecast!

Eventually we rounded Cape Egmont, the most easterly tip of North Island and took the opportunity, whilst in mobile phone range, to get a new forecast for the days ahead. If we had lacked wind in the past four days were were certainly not going to in the next 24 hours! The forecast was for winds increasing to northerly Gale force 8 with gusts of up to Severe Storm 11!

Arriving Marlborough Sound

The northerly wind allowed us to make good speed towards Queen Charlotte sound, part of Marlborough Sound, such that we were able to shelter in the lee of Cape Jackson before the worst of the winds hit us. Nonetheless we were hit by heavy rain and hail, icy temperatures with winds of 35 knots and gusting to 45, not the most pleasant of welcomes!

Arriving Marlborough Sound, gusting 45kts of wind and hail!

An hour and a half after rounding Cape Jackson we were able to anchor in Ship Cove (aka Meretoto), which offers some of the best shelter from northerly winds in the outer reaches of Queen Charlotte Sound. Here we joined three other yachts and, after three attempts, managed to get the anchor to hold in 17m of water whilst the wind gusted around us in the, by now, pitch dark.

Looking into Queen Charlotte Sound from Ship Cove.

Next morning the weather had improved considerably, we awoke to blue skies and light breezes with an excellent view of the inner reaches of the Sound and of the Captain Cook memorial on the foreshore commemorating his taking possession of Queen Charlotte Sound. Later that morning we sailed off the anchor heading to Burney's Beach on Arapawa Island. This was a delightful beach with a couple of splendid houses behind but the anchorable depths were all occupied by private moorings (empty) strategically placed to make anchoring impossible! You were either forced out into water that was too deep or at risk of tangling with the moorings. As a result we moved on two miles further into the sound to Waikaramea Bay where we were able to anchor with ease.

Millions of baby lobsters

Our only concern, as we came in to anchor, was the existence of extensive red patches on the water surface; only after we had anchored did we discover that these consisted of millions of baby lobsters which, for reasons we didn't understand, were being ignored by the seabirds and other fish?

Lobster cryll

It was a very weird sensation swimming amongst them! Later in the afternoon we were also entertained by a seal that had caught an octopus; it was thrashing it and playing with it in it's attempts to swallow it; a not insignificant task with a live octopus!

Seal playing with an octopus in Waikakaramea Bay

The following morning we set off again on our last leg to Picton, the port from which the ferries leave South Island for North Island. A very pleasant two hour reach into the inner end of Queen Charlotte Sound had us alongside the marina by 1530 and set up for three days respite.

Picton Marina

Next day was spent on minor maintenance and sourcing a new engine start battery, the old one had died on the way in! 7 years old so it had given good service.

The harbour view point, Picton

Next day we intended to go for a day in Wellington, by ferry; however, having discovered that the last available ferry back departed only five hours after the first outward ferry arrived (there was a later ferry but it was fully booked!) we decided to go for Plan B, a hire car and a tour of

Yiorgos on East coast of South Island

Marlborough (including some vineyards) plus seeing the ski area and lakes. I think we made the right choice! We arrived back in Picton at 2200 after a very enjoyable day out including a chance to have dinner in, and research, Nelson, our port of departure for the forthcoming Sunday.

Rotoiti Lake, Marlborough

Wednesday afternoon saw us departing Picton and heading to Chaucer Bay in the Bay of Many Coves, our last anchorage in Queen Charlotte Sound.

Chaucer Bay in Bay of Many Coves

Thursday was an early start to make Homestead Bay in Port Ligar, a challenging passage which proved to be on the wind, in gusty conditions, all the way; despite the fact that we sailed NE to get out of Queen Charlotte Sound and SW to reach Port Ligar!

After a quiet night in Homestead Bay we again set off at 0800 to negotiate French Pass, a 100m wide gap between the mainland and D'Urville island, through which the tidal stream flows at up to 9 kts if you get it wrong.

Approaching French Passage, Marlborough

By setting off early we managed to arrive at 1230, on the last of the flood tide, which meant that we had an easy passage through with about 0.5 of a knot of following tidal stream. By 1430 we were anchored in Oyster Bay, part of Squally Cove, our last anchorage in Marlborough. Despite our desire for a quiet anchorage the weather had not got the message. Heavy grey skies and gusty winds (as the name of the bay suggests) predominated overnight denying us the restful night we sought.

Departing Croisilles Harbour (aka Squally Cove)

Just to put “the cherry on the cake” it ended with us departing for Nelson at 1000 the next day in bright sunshine and virtually zero wind; hence we were forced to motor almost all the way to Nelson in a lumpy sea and light headwind; just the way to end our cruise in New Zealand!.

In Nelson we had pre booked a place in the marina for the final night. It was then a case of victualling for the forthcoming ~10 day passage to Australia and clearing out of New Zealand on the Sunday afternoon, 1 March, before we set off.

Nelson anchorage

Personally I was very sad to depart New Zealand, despite the cool climate I had fallen in love with the tranquil lifestyle and un-crowded feel of this fantastic nation.

More when we reach Australia ….........