Marquesas Islands to Tahiti via the Tuamotu Archipelago.

Atuona beach, Hiva Oa

Day one in Atuona, Hiva Oa, was of course taken up with registering our arrival with the Gendarmerie and finding our way around Atuona. After the very simple process of registering we set off up the hill to the cemetery; not normally our first port of call, but this one had the grave of Paul Gauguin which we decided we wanted to see. After that it was into town to get some local currency, French Polynesian Francs (FPF119 to the €), and a lunch stop at the restaurant on the edge of town that had Wi-Fi, to catch up on events of the past three weeks.

Atuoa Cemetery, Grave of Paul Gaugin

From there it was back to Kurukulla via the very well stocked mini market/fuel station on the jetty, and a well earned rest!

After three restful (if slightly roly due to the swell entering) days in the harbour at Atuona, Hiva Oa, we had caught up with our admin, laundry and the world news. The “Societe de Sauvetage en Mer”, run by Sandra and family, was a boon. They operate from the old semaphore station on the east side of the harbour entrance and provide all sorts of services as well as a good internet connection; we spent much time there!

Hanamoenoa Bay, Tahuata

Eventually, having seen enough of Atuona, we decided to stock up with victuals from the local mini-market and, as a last act, go stern to the commercial jetty to take water before departing for the very small island of Tahuata. Our destination was the anchorage at Hanamoenoa Bay on the NW coast. The bay was fantastic, sandy beach and relatively calm, but the weather was not. Just as we prepared to leave Atuona the drizzle set in and we had a windless transit in that cold, penetrating, fine rain that gets in everywhere and soaks you worse than a downpour. It barely stopped before darkness fell at 1800. For the first time in months we were forced to eat supper below decks!

Next day dawned brighter, clearer and calmer. Given the much better conditions I decided it was time for a swim and to clean the brown slime that had accumulated on the waterline of Kurukulla during the Pacific transit. Fortunately it came off with a wipe of a sponge and within an hour she was back to her pristine self.

Anchorage at Vaihatu

The rest of the day passed without us noticing and we determined that the next day we would move to another bay on the island, only two miles away.

The next bay was Vaitahu but, it being Sunday, we deferred going ashore until the next morning. Vaihatu consists of a small hamlet with minimal facilities but it did offer a post office, general store and most importantly Jimmy's bar/restaurant with Wi-Fi. The village church was a quite spectacular semi open air building which seemed almost out of place in such a small community, that said it was also next to the school and therefore at the very centre of life here.

The people were charming, welcoming, and were obviously very content with a simple lifestyle. The bay itself was not a great anchorage and so, after 24 hours here we set off southwards to see if the anchorage at Hapatoni looked any better; it didn't and so we eventually returned to Hanamoenoa Bay which was rapidly becoming our anchorage of choice.

The hamlet at Hanamenu Bay

After two days at anchor we again got the wander lust! This time we set off for Pointe Matahau and Hanamenu Bay on the NW tip of Hiva Oa. After a brisk sail across the gap between Tahuata and Hiva Oa the wind then died and we were faced with motoring the last five miles into Hanamenu Bay. Here we anchored in the company of a single Canadian boat, very different to the frequently crowded Hanamoenoa Bay! Next morning we went for a walk ashore, to discover what was inland behind the small settlement; answer, some ruins which told of a larger settlement in days gone by but very little else. The entire population was less than 20 people and no road access at all.

Pointe Matahau (Great Tower)

If we thought Vaihatu was small! At the entrance to the bay was a most impressive geological formation called Matahau, (Great Tower), from any distance it was almost impossible to believe it was not man made!

Later that day we returned to, you've guessed it, Hanamoenoa Bay, for a final couple of nights before setting off in the early hours of Saturday to return to Atuona for the final time. Our plan was to re-victual there and then set off early next day, south east, to Fatu Hiva, another of the Marquesas Islands. Re-victualling didn't happen because we had forgotten that the shops close from mid-day Saturday until Monday morning!

Towed in by Sauvetage en Mer after being dismasted, poor guy.

We did however witness the arrival of a boat that had been dismasted, and obviously adrift for several weeks, in the tow of the local “Societe de Sauvetage en Mer” rescue boat. We had heard the call for help when at the Semaphore Lookout that morning and were left to presume that it had taken them from 10am to 4pm to tow the crippled boat in. A significant task considering they were in an open boat of only 6 or 7m length. By her condition it was evident she had been adrift for some time and with only one guy onboard.

Next morning we started early with the intention of watering ship before departing Atuona. Unfortunately whilst we were busy recovering the stern anchor and then weighing the main anchor a tug, that had been moored in the harbour overnight attached to a barge which was alongside the jetty, decided to move and take up the only spot on the jetty where we would have been able to get water! We opted to leave without rather than risk the very dodgy manoeuvre of trying to go stern to between the barge and the tug. We managed to do the Pacific crossing on 120 litres (half of our capacity) so we are not desperately short of water but it feels wrong to sail without topping up when it is available.

Cascade d'eau, Hanavave , FatuHiva

From Atuona on Hiva Oa, it was to be a fast reach on port tack to Fatu Hiva, some 46 miles away to the SSE. We finally departed at 0900 and arrived in Hanavave Bay (Bay of Virgins) on Fatu Hiva at 1530; not a bad crossing, average 7 knots. On arrival there were four other craft in the bay and so we sailed in and dropped the anchor in the middle of the group. The bay deepens rapidly as you get further out and our first attempt was unsuccessful, as we fell back on the anchor the depth increased too rapidly; a second try, this time under engine, was more successful and we took a place on the inside of the others near the small dinghy harbour; here we settled for the night. It gets dark here at 1745 in the evening so there are no long evenings to enjoy!

The following day we went ashore to research the local shop (singular) and to walk up to the local Cascade d'eau, (waterfall). The shop was eclectic, a random selection of small quantities of everything from food to hardware. Whilst there we met up with another yacht crew and signed up for a road trip to Omoa, the next (and only other) village on the island, plus an evening diner in the home of one of the locals (there are no restaurants, this is the local alternative); all to take place on the following day. Thereafter we set off with instructions on how to find the waterfall; 45 minutes away. Simple, unless you miss a turning or turn too early. An hour and a half later, having enjoyed a walk through some fantastic countryside, we had given up on the waterfall when we met up with yet another boat crew, they were also trying to find it and had taken the same wrong turning as us.

Looking down on Hanavave Bay

With the aid of a passing local we discovered our mistake and 30 minutes later we were swimming in the pool under the waterfall; cool but not cold and wonderfully refreshing. By 1600 we were back onboard and enjoying a well deserved rest. Just as we were debating the merits of a G&T versus a Rum punch for sundowners, the owner of a catamaran moored near us (same crew as we had met at the waterfall) came over to invite us, and another crew, to drinks onboard. Decision made, they and their boat came from Trinidad so it was a Rum and Coke for sundowners! In fact he was the MD of Powerboats, the next yard along to the one we had stayed in whilst in Trinidad eight months ago. Amazing coincidence! In the end we all stayed not only for drinks but an impromptu supper onboard in exchange for trying to sort out his computer navigation programme which was refusing to function; and still is! A very enjoyable evening indeed.

Omoa to Hanavave, the only main road on Fatu Hiva

The following day we were off on our “taxi ride” to Omoa Bay. The metalled road out of the village lasted for no more than 250m, after that it was slip and slide in 4WD for the next 12km before we reached the 400m of metalled road leading in to Omoa. There were signs of road construction at this end and we were told the plan is to metal the whole distance between the villages but with three small sized concrete mixers (that is all we saw) this is going to take many years I suspect. The risk is that more will be swept away in the rains each year than gets constructed once they get beyond the halfway point! In the evening, as planned, three crews grouped together to dine in the home of one of the locals. A simple meal of chicken, marinated raw fish (in a coconut and lemon marinade) and salad served with breadfruit and rice, followed by local grapefruit as desert; they are larger and sweeter than their European equivalent. All of this was washed down with copious orange juice! The locals don't drink alcohol!

Having seen the anchorage at Omoa we decided it was not worth the effort of going there. It was more exposed, less picturesque and offered no more facilities than we had at Hanavave. For these reasons we stayed put and declared the following day a day of rest; however, we did take the opportunity to refill our water tanks from the source on the quay, two trips with three jerry cans and we were full again. As we had now decided to depart for the Tuamotu Islands from here we spent our final morning getting a stock of frozen meat and a few other perishables from the shop before departing at 1130.

Morning sky, the day of arrival in Iles du Roi Georges

Knowing that our anchor was in the midst of a collection of rocks and boulders I was nervous that it might take us some time and effort to extricate it but in the event it came out easily; phew!

The sail to the Isles du Roi George, (King Georges Islands – must be some British connection) was to be 440 miles down wind, for which we had allowed 4 days. Initially we set a cracking pace and were heading directly for them at 7-8 kts on a broad reach. As we moved further west this became more of a run and our speed reduced to 4-5 kts but, with only a day to go, it was looking good for a daylight arrival, with the sun behind us, as we entered the only channel through the reef. Having the sun behind you makes it much easier to pick out the reef and any other shallow patches as you enter.

The lagoon, Iles du Roi Georges

Although the entrance channel was charted with a minimum depth of 3.5m the remainder of the lagoon was not charted and hence we would need to proceed with extreme caution! As we arrived at the shallowest part of the entrance channel, where a sharp left turn was necessary, a local boat appeared in front of us and very kindly piloted us through the gap. He departed again with a cheery wave and our thanks! From here we headed for the western part of the lagoon, a lee shore but, from the limited information we had, the most easily anchorable part of the lagoon near the village. By 1700 we were anchored with 50m of cable out, in 10m depth, to make sure we didn't drag.

Buoys left by the Black Pearl industry; they're everywhere!

The next day, after a good night's sleep and a light lunch, we went ashore into the “village”. Although there were a variety of houses along the main road and clustered around the church the total population of the island only amounted to ~400 people. Notwithstanding this there was a new school under construction and an extension to the town hall. The former prosperity of the island came from the Black Pearl industry but we were informed by the locals that that had come to an end a few years back and as a consequence many people have now also left the island. The remnants of the industry are still to be seen everywhere, hundreds of redundant plastic buoys piled up in heaps! So taken with the island were we that we decided to stay an extra day. Our plan for a 24 hour stopover became a 48 hour stopover!

Kurukulla, anchored at Teavaroa, Iles du Roi Georges

When we finally did decide to depart it was not to be a simple manoeuvre! Our plan was to leave an hour before sunset to allow us enough time to negotiate the reef in daylight. Thus at 1600 we started to weigh anchor only to find that we had the anchor cable caught under a coral outcrop. It took us over half an hour to extricate ourselves and by this time the sun was low in the sky. The choice was re anchor and spend another night or head for the exit through the reef in failing light, we opted for the latter but it was a difficult exit, this time with no locals to assist. We reached open water just as the sun dropped below the horizon (1745 at this time of year in this part of the world!) and set course for the souther end of the island. As we did so it became increasingly obvious that the East wind we had had for the past several days was no longer and it was firmly in the South South East almost southerly.

Kauehi Island, Tuamotu Archipeligo

This was not what we needed. The winds in July in this part of the world are 95% between NE and SE in July. We had chose the one day when it was not going to comply!

What should have been an 84 mile overnight reach to the Tuamotu island of Kauehi turned into a 130 mile beat to windward. Similarly our planned arrival in the early morning became an arrival at 1830, just after sunset, and an hour before a fullish moon would rise. Not ideal for negotiating the entrance to a coral atoll! The final twist was that we had arrived three hours after high water and so the current was running out of the lagoon at 5-6 knots! All in all not great! The entrance to the lagoon at Kauehi is 150m wide and straight in. This is not difficult navigationally but challenging in the conditions. We opted to give it one try under full sail (the wind was 18kts from the south and we were entering on a north easterly course so it gave us the best chance of beating the current). Just as we were approaching the entrance to the channel, in turbulent water, the echo sounder decided to register a false reading of 7m and reducing, reaching 3m! My nerve cracked and we reversed course and went back out to deeper water. In fact we had never been in water shallower than 250m but in such circumstances it is better to be safe than sorry (or aground!). What next? In true British fashion we hove to, in open water, and prepared dinner! More precisely we had decided to wait two and a half hours until the moon was high in the sky and the tidal flow would be less (as it was by now approaching low water), before making another attempt under engine. At 2200 we were again approaching the channel, the seas were still very rough and confused but this time the echo sounder decided to behave itself.

Land crabs, worse than moles!

In the entrance itself there were standing waves and a current of 5 knots against us and so we edged through making only half a knot at times, a slow and wet process; however, by 2245 we were safely inside and able to make the 7 mile passage across the inside of the lagoon in relative comfort. The channel was marked as surveyed with side scan sonar and so we could be fairly sure that the channel was clear of coral heads and other dangers. By 2359 we were anchored off the village of Tearavero, the largest settlement on the island (perhaps better described as the coral ring). Once sure the anchor was secure we poured two large glasses of rum, downed them with a mug of decaffeinated coffee, before retiring for a much needed nights rest.

The gift from the anonymous children

Next morning we awoke to see a delightful settlement and one other yacht in the anchorage, a bit further in (they had obviously arrived in daylight!). A scene of calm and tranquillity. We settled for a days rest! In the afternoon we wandered ashore to meet some of the locals and to report our presence to the Mairie (a requirement when in the UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, of which this island forms part). The people were again absolutely delightful, the island seemed well organised if not affluent and the shops (there were two) stocked with essentials but not much else. The saddest aspect was that several houses were lying abandoned, their occupants seemingly having relocated off the island and again there was much evidence of pearl farming having been and gone!

The following day we went ashore again, just to stretch our legs and access the internet. On our return to the dinghy we discovered a small decoration, made from palm fronds, had been left for us on the thwart. Further investigation revealed that it had been made by the local children and left for us as a present. Amazing kindness! Sadly the children were no longer there for us to thank them personally.

Kurukulla at anchor, Toau Island.

After two days anchored in Kauehi we set off at 0600 for Toau, another coral island. An early morning start was essential if we were to avoid another “washing machine” ride out through the entrance. As it was, at 0715, we caught the first of the ebb tide and had a relatively pleasant passage out; we were following another New Zealand registered yacht who had chosen to make their escape at the same time. From here it was a 36 mile passage, west, to the Otugi passage at Toau which meant, if we could maintain an average of 6 kts, that we would be entering downwind, on the first of the flood tide, again an ideal situation. In the event the Otugi passage was a non event! Although there was a 1m swell running, it was not breaking in the entrance, despite the depth being only 6m. Once inside it was a flat water sail to the anchorage a mile to the south. A piece of paradise; there were two other yachts anchored off the beach but it was 1.5 miles long so not crowded!

Never go without your hat, Toau Island!

We sailed onto the anchor in 10m of water and settled for a slightly delayed lunch whilst we soaked in our surroundings. Here we stayed for two days enjoying the tranquillity and totally unspoilt environment. Whilst we were here two other yachts arrived so it is obviously recommended in somebody's cruising guide; it is not the sort of place you chose to enter by chance! There was plenty of space for all however.

Our next stop was to be the island of Apataki, 39 miles away.

Arriving Pakaka Pass, Apataki

This atoll has two passes by which to enter/leave the lagoon, SW and NW. Our plan was to enter by the former and leave by the latter. For this we needed to be off the SW entrance by 1400 to catch the start of the flood tide; another early start! At 0700 we weighed anchor and set off for the entrance followed by a German yacht anchored near us. The passage through the pass was quick but lumpy, another “washing machine” ride, but this time we made it through in much less time. From there it was a broad reach to the Pakaka Pass giving entry to the lagoon at Apataki. Facing SW this pass was in the lee of the island and relatively calm; it is also well marked. Once inside we made for Tamaro, on the SE corner of the Atoll, 8 miles away.

Apataki, not much detail!

Directly upwind in sparsely charted waters we opted to motor there. En route we passed two coral heads breaking the surface, neither of which was shown on our chart and both were surrounded by water 30+ metres deep! If you don't see them you hit them, no good trusting the echo sounder!

Boat-yard at Tamaro, Apataki

As we approached Tamaro we noticed lots of masts in amongst the trees and to our surprise discovered a boat yard in this remotest of spots. Who on earth leaves their boat ashore here miles from any centre of population and with no transport links?

Next morning we were visited by an Australian couple who answered part of the above question. They were living on their catamaran, moored here, whilst doing up another catamaran that they had bought at auction in Tahiti; a drug runner's boat that had been seized by the Gendarmerie. Their plan was to turn it around in 9 months, sell it in Tahiti, and be away before the Typhoon season. A good deal if you can do it! Ashore were also another dozen or so boats in various stages of repair and, whilst we were ashore, they lifted out a further two, so no lack of trade! The down side was that there are no shore facilities to speak of.

Christoph on lookout duty. En route north in the lagoon, Apataki

The boatyard office keeps a small quantity of essentials but otherwise everything has to come in on the once per week boat or the weekly flight, including all foodstuffs. The only shop is 14 miles away, across the lagoon, near the pass by which we entered! At mid-day we took our leave and headed north to the next anchorage in the NE corner of the lagoon. With Christoph in the bow, keeping watch, we navigated our way through the coral heads in uncharted waters. It was a beam reach, in flat water (average depth 20-30m) and we were doing 7-8kts! The only problem encountered was not with the coral but with a fishing boat that intercepted us warning us of their nets cast across our intended path.

Anchorage at Teonemahina point, Apataki

After a brief tack to windward we rounded the windward end of their net, waved them goodbye, and continued on our way. By 1400 we were anchored again at Teonemahina Point, another piece of paradise and totally deserted. The anchorage was on sand, in 7m, and ideal for a nights stay.

At 1130 the next day we set sail again, this time downwind, to close the distance to the exit pass at Tehere. Although our plan was to exit just before sunset, at low water, we decided to make the transit across the uncharted lagoon whilst the sun was still high in the sky, making any coral heads more easily visible.

Coral Head (uncharted) in midst of Apataki lagoon. We were in 30m!

We then anchored near the pass to await low water, at 1630, before making or departure to Rangiroa; our last port of call in the Tuamotu archipelago. 

The reach to Rangiroa was quick and comfortable but we arrived two hours before sunrise, hence we spent those hours hove to, three miles off the Tiputa Pass, waiting for enough light to enter by. The entrance is straightforward but once inside it is difficult to find any decent anchorage off the village, in the dark. The areas free of coral outcrops are generally too far off the beach to be anchorable, hence daylight is essential to find a suitable coral free area. No sooner had we dropped anchor we were hit by a vicious squall, heavy rain and 30+ knots of wind.

Disused church, Tiputa, Rangiroa

Fortunately the anchor held and we were able to watch it pass from the dry comfort of the cabin, it was only when we came to depart that we found out just how securely the anchor had jammed itself in the coral, again!

The village of Tiputa boasted three shops and a post office (with ATM) plus a disused church. A glimpse inside showed it to have been almost stripped bare; whether this was a precursor to major restoration or a permanent move to another location wasn't immediately obvious. There was also a small cafe at the landing stage which offered Wi-Fi, hence we spent a fair amount of time there, catching up on the news (Boris Johnson becoming Prime Minister!) and our own personal admin. After 30 hours anchored off Tiputa it was time to leave. In the early afternoon we weighed anchor (with difficulty!) and set off for the Avatoru pass, 5 miles west, and once out set sail for Tahiti. It was to be a cracking good reach averaging 7.5kts over the first 8 hours.

Panorama of Makatea

To avoid arriving in Tahiti in the late evening and having to hold off again and wait for daylight we decided to break our journey at Makatea, an isolated island, a third of the way between Rangiroa and Tahiti.

Although the island has no suitable anchorages the local government had reputedly (according to the “Stopover Handbook for Polynesia) laid three moorings for visiting yachts, our hope was to pick up one of these. On arrival we found a catamaran moored to one of the moorings and no sign of the other two! It was pitch black, the moon had yet to rise and sun rise was four hours off, hence we were not keen to get too near the fringe of the reef on which Makatea stands.

Our wanderings through the Tamamotu Archipelago and to Tahiti

We hove to again! At daybreak all was revealed; the other two moorings did exist but were very close to the edge of the reef, much closer than we were prepared to go in the darkness! Just as we approached to pick up the buoy a whale lazily crossed our path, broaching the surface less than100m away, before disappearing southwards. The remains of the extensive loading facilities, used to load phosphate rock, that was mined by British and French interests from 1908 until supplies were exhausted in 1966, were very evident; built right on the edge of the reef. At 100m from the shoreline the depth was still over 150m, hence the moorings being so close inshore! Once we were secure we settled in for a quiet and relaxing morning! Our intention was to depart again at mid-day... which we did.

The first part of the crossing to Tahiti was a beam reach in 16-18kts of wind, plenty of rolling on the swell but otherwise not uncomfortable. Then night set in and the winds steadily rose in strength; fortunately for us they did not change much in direction but by the time we reached Tahiti, at 0800 in the morning, we had winds of force 7 gusting gale 8 and were under a double reefed mainsail and a pocket handkerchief of Genoa.

Arriving Tahiti

This was our first gale since leaving the Mediterranean; not bad! On arrival we chose the nearest protected anchorage, dropped anchor inside the reef, and set about drying things out (our foul weather gear and things affected by a few very minor leaks) before settling for a morning of sleep to catch up. Amusingly the welcoming SMS from 3 welcomed us to Argentina (Geography is obviously not their strong point!). They also allowed us to receive other incoming SMS but flatly refused to let us send any. Joys of technology! Our plan from here was to spend the rest of the day and night at anchor before moving into the Tahiti Yacht Club the morning after.

Tahiti Yacht Club, Papeete

This we did, after a confirmatory phone call to check the availability of a berth. By 1300 we were alongside, secure and ready to explore the locality, including the local Carrefour supermarket; such a joy after the tiny general stores of the smaller islands of Polynesia and the American style supermarkets of the Caribbean. Food here is on average 30-40% more expensive than in UK/France but the choices available look similar; a small price to pay!

More on Tahiti and the voyage west when we arrive in Fiji our next major port of call…....