Fiji to New Zealand via Vanuatu and New Caledonia (Just).

Fiji to Vanuatu

Our time in Fiji passed far too quickly. We were constrained by the need to have a secure berth for Kurukulla whilst I went to Canada for 6 days; hence, we hardly moved from the marina at Vuda Point for fear of losing our place before I went, and for lack of time on my return. The 1979 Canadian Admiral's Cup Crew Reunion was a great fun event and I managed to combine it with a few days at Stoney Lake, relaxing in the island cabin of two very good friends of mine, Michael and Ingrid.

All the forms for departure! Duplicates of course!

On return we had 24 hours to get ourselves sorted out before departing for Vanuatu, a shame as there was still so much to see and do in Fiji, but needs must. I'm not sure we did justice to the beauty of Fiji but we also wanted to see as much as possible of Vanuatu which promised to be very much less “colonialized”.

Our choir on departure Vuda Marina

Having filled in the next mountain of paperwork, in duplicate, cleared with Customs and Immigration, we were ready to depart by 1130 on Friday morning but, before we were allowed to slip our lines, we were feted by the choir to sing us our departure song, wishing us good fortune and fair winds. A great tradition and so beautiful; typical of the character of Fiji and its people. Ridiculously Customs give you 24 hours to leave Fiji and Immigration insist you leave within an hour of clearing out! What they will not do is tell you in advance when they will arrive to give you clearance!

Waya Island, Fiji

We had by chance timed our departure for low water hence it was a rather nervous passage out of the narrow access channel to the marina. We registered 1.7m on the echo sounder (we draw 2.1) but did not touch! I'm not sure quite why, the bottom of the channel must be very soft mud! From here we part sailed and part motored (for total lack of wind) out to the western islands of the archipelago. By 1800 we were happily anchored in the bay at Yalobi on Waya Island. Slightly illegal as we should not have stopped having already cleared out but we had our excuses ready (Engine problems!) if anyone came to ask.

Waya Island, Fiji

They didn't.

Next day, after a brief swim and a relaxing hour or so we departed the anchorage and set off for Vanuatu. The wind, initially, was good 10 kts plus but it didn't last, within the hour we were motoring again, trying to put enough distance between us and Fiji to pick up the promised easterly winds. This we eventually did but not before 1800 in the evening and even then the winds stayed light and dead astern for the remainder of the next two days. Eventually, in the early morning of Monday, 1^st October, the winds went round into the SE and increased to 12 – 15 knots. Speed at last. We went from a lazy 3 - 4 kts of boat speed to a brisk 6 – 7. Progress!

Approaching Vanuatu

It continued like this until we reached the passage between the outer islands of Vanuatu. We were heading for a late evening arrival in Luganville, the port of entry, and so we took the opportunity for a night at anchor in a bay just inside the island of Nasawa, before heading onwards at dawn. When stowing the mainsail we also discovered a weld failure on the gooseneck (the “hinge” where the boom meets the mast) and hence took the opportunity to make a temporary repair to get us to Luganville where we hoped a permanent weld could be achieved; another thing on the list!

Anchored illegally at Nasawa Island, Vanuatu

By 0500 next morning we were underway again, doing 7.5 knots in a stiff breeze and pouring rain! The only advantage of the torrential rain was that it made waterfall spotting on the southern face of the island of Aoba an entertaining pass time as we sailed past it later in the morning. They were easily visible, as white stripes down the mountainside, from a distance of three miles off. By 1330 we were anchored in the quarantine anchorage of Luganville and awaiting the arrival of the Customs Officer. The anchorage is far from ideal, exposed to the prevailing winds, steeply shelving and close to the commercial wharf. Other than that it is ideally chosen! It would be really valuable if they were to lay a quarantine buoy for short term mooring.

By now you would think I would be immune to the vagaries of checking in and out of various countries but Vanuatu still had some surprises to offer! Andrew, the customs officer, was great; we had to pick him up off the shore with our dinghy, after which he swiftly filled in all of our forms, granted us clearance to go ashore and processed our “Cruising Permit” for visits to other Vanuatu islands; one minor problem, it needed processing in his office as he didn't have the necessary stamp etc. with him and anyway I had to pass through BioSecurity before it could be issued. No problem I could pick it up from his office later, but it had to be today as they were closed for a “Ceremony” the next day (Friday) celebrating the first turn of the shovel in the construction of the new Government Finance Building, being built on the edge of town. With that he and I returned ashore. Next stop was the nearest ATM to get some local currency, unfortunately it was “out of order”. Not to be beaten I walked to the next, 200m further on, and managed to draw cash there. From there it was Digicel to get a data SIM, simple and no snags.

Aore Resort, Luganville

Then to BioSecurity; they were on the hillside above customs. A very pleasant lady informed me that the inspector was away today and that I would have to come back tomorrow, I pointed out that I couldn't get my Cruising Permit processed tomorrow, hence I had to have clearance today. A telephone call to the inspector solved the problem; all we had to do was falsify an inspection report (3000 Vatu), report items removed for destruction that didn't exist (500 Vatu), pay a Clearance fee (2000 Vatu) and all would be well. I couldn't quite decide if they were doing me a favour or ripping me off! Thus 20 minutes later and 5500 Vatu (£40) lighter we had cleared BioSecurity! Then it was onwards to Immigration. At Immigration all went well but before they could stamp the passports, inwards, it was necessary to pay the fee (4800 Vatu / £35) and this had to be paid at the Government Cashiers office at the other end of town; and they close at 1530; it was now 1600! “Pay it tomorrow and come back and we can stamp the passports”. “Are they definitely open tomorrow? Customs are closed” says I, “Yes” is the answer. OK tomorrow it is...... Back to Kurukulla. By now it was nearing sunset and staying anchored in the quarantine berth was not an option. We headed across the strait to the opposite shore and picked up a mooring off the Aore Adventure Sports Lodge.

Next morning, after a somewhat late start, we set off to the Aore Resort to book a table for dinner, (Christoph's belated birthday celebration) and after a quick beer we set off, the mile and a half, across the harbour, in the dinghy to complete our immigration process. We found the Government Cashiers office without too much difficulty and met Jimmy, the sole occupant of the building; unfortunately he did not work for, nor have access to, the cashiers office; all others had taken the day off to attend the “first turn of the shovel” ceremony! He informed us that we would have to return on Monday (today being Friday) and we informed him that was a non starter as we were sailing tomorrow no matter what! From here Jimmy turned into a hero, he worked the phones for the next half hour tracking down one of the cashiers and persuaded them to return to the office and open up. Half an hour later we were paying our 4800 Vatu and getting the necessary receipt needed for us to return to Immigration. Success, well almost!

Self at Aore Resort, Luganville

At immigration we had to wait 30 minutes whilst two other yacht crews cleared out as the only guy on duty was overwhelmed, guess where all the others were …. you've got it! Eventually he stamped our passports and handed them back with our “landing cards” for us to take back to the Customs Office. When I explained Customs were not open today he suggested taking them in on Monday …. same debate … he eventually retained them and we were allowed to go. Phew! Next stop supermarket. By the time we got back to the dinghy it was two hours later than planned and by now it was wind over tide in the channel resulting in a much more bumpy and wet ride back to Kurukulla but at least we were now legal visitors.

Our evening meal at the resort was excellent, sitting on the beach front in a perfect environment. If ever I want a quiet, luxury, holiday it is to here I will come! By 2300 we were back onboard and enjoying a final coffee and whisky before retiring. An enjoyable conclusion to a frustrating 24 hours!

Anchorage at Palikoulo Bay

Next day it was a slow start, followed by a trip ashore to pay our mooring dues and to enjoy a light lunch at the resort. By 1400 we were ready to depart; we sailed off the mooring and enjoyed a brisk passage the 8 miles to Palikoulo Bay, an anchorage that had been recommended by other cruisers we had met. By 1545 we were anchoring, again under sail, in the shelter of the bay. By now the weather was windy and grey but the bay lived up to its reputation and a sheltered anchorage; a good place for the night, or even two nights!

Both ends of the rainbow at Palikoulo Bay

On Monday morning we set off southwards, needing to close the distance between us and Port Vila, our departure port from Vanuatu. Although we set off in sunshine the weather rapidly deteriorated and a long sail in the rain seemed unappealing somehow; for this reason we set our sights low and headed for the anchorage at the western end of Toutouba, 7 miles south; not overly sheltered but in the lee of the island and so calm enough. Ashore was some form of summer school judging by the number of youngsters on the beach, we elected not to go ashore to find out!

Kurukulla at anchor, Wala Island

Next morning it was a relatively early start, heading south east to Wala Island; one of two very small islands lying close together off the east coast of Malakula Island. The forecast was for SE winds for the next three days at least hence, no point in waiting, we bit the bullet and headed off upwind in 20 kts and a lumpy sea. With a foul current against us as well, for most of the day, we only just made the anchorage by sunset. On arrival we were welcomed by Charlie and his granddaughter, in a dugout canoe, who very kindly showed us the best spot to anchor, clear of coral heads and near the landing stage. Before departing he had also talked us into a guided tour next morning including the historical sights of the village and the “cannibalism” remains whatever they were!

Charlie at one of the sacred sites, Wala Island

The morning tour was more an opportunity to talk through local history and traditions with Charlie. We were introduced to several semi sacred places where tribal chiefs hold court and families honour their departed. One interesting “nugget” was the method previously used for burying their departed senior relatives. They would be buried in a standing position with head above ground; then, after one week, the head is removed and placed on a plinth so that younger generations can still consult with their elders.

The settlement, Wala Island

The tour was also due to have included a local lunch (cannibalism excluded – we hoped!) which was being held to celebrate the opening of a new health centre for the island, by a visiting group of Government Ministers. Unfortunately the visiting party were a couple of hours late arriving and we were under pressure to move on and make progress southwards, hence we missed out on the lunch; However, before departing, I was able to fix a defective solar panel for one of the residents; it is evident that the residents have some modern technology, solar panels etc., but little knowledge, nor tools, to keep them working.

Kurukulla at anchor, Wala Island

By 1300 we had taken our leave,weighed anchor, and were en route for Port Stanley (really just a bay) where we anchored off the beach on Uri Island at 1500. It was perhaps the best anchorage we had found in some months, 4m depth and pure coral sand, 75m off the beach.

Next morning we were greeted by Michael, who had come out on his dug out canoe, offering us fruit, tomatoes and a cucumber, we purchased it all, 300 Vatu (=£2). Port Stanley impressed us so much that we abandoned our plan for an early departure and stayed a second night before departing at 0600 on the day after. Our early start enabled us to make up the day we had sacrificed, stop for lunch in Banam Bay (where we had originally planned to spend the night) and reach the Maskelyne Islands before sunset.

Sunset at Port Stanley, Vanuatu

We had chosen our anchorage before arrival only to find another yacht in the middle of the bay and taking up most of the available space! Our initial attempt at anchoring under sail was not a success, we were swinging too close the coral covered shallows and risked damaging the coral. Engine on, second attempt the other side of the original occupant; after two attempts we managed to get the anchor to hold; settled for the night, and just in time before a torrential rain shower descended upon us...

Next morning we were woken by Tom, on his dugout outrigger canoe, wanting to take us to “all the best snorkelling spots”, we declined but not before he had persuaded us to part with any Vatus (currency) that we did not require and two T shirts that were surplus to my requirements. Tom was keen to chat and it was two hours later that he departed to take our neighbour on the snorkelling trip. Interesting though; we discovered that schooling to the age of 11 is free but after that it is 50,000 Vatu (~ £375) a term. I was left to wonder how anyone with such an isolated, rural, existence managed to accumulate that sort of sum, let alone pay for multiple children.

We departed an hour or so later, after waiting out another rain shower, and headed for a well sheltered anchorage to the west of Awei Island, 3 miles away; the weather was continuing to look threatening. We were right! Within an hour of us anchoring there was a torrential downpour which lasted, off and on, until sunset, including one lightening strike which must have been less than quarter of a mile away, the flash and bang were almost simultaneous! Fortunately there was only the one! We had said to Tom that we would anchor that night in the anchorage off of his village, Peskarus, on Uliveo Island; however, given the unpleasant conditions we opted to stay put and set out from here the following morning for Lamen Bay on Epi Island. The forecast was for NE winds and as Epi is almost due east of Maskelyne this suited us, turning what might have been a beat to windward into a close fetch. We departed at 0900 and by 1500 we were back at anchor, with the last hour and a half battling very light and fickle winds.

Port Vila market ...

We stayed in Lamen Bay for a day and a half, departing as the sun set on the second day; the reason being that we wanted a morning arrival in Port Vila, our final port in Vanuatu and the place where we needed to check out from. The passage was initially tedious with virtually no wind forcing us to motor sail for the first 7 hours, after which the winds got up but from the south and hence we had to beat the rest of the way to Port Vila, arriving in the late morning. On arrival we picked up a mooring off of Yachting World, the nearest thing there is to a marina in Port Vila! That afternoon we set off ashore to find a suitable workshop where they could do Stainless Steel welding and we could get the gooseneck permanently repaired. Vate Industries fitted the bill and Michael, the workshop manager, accepted the job without question. In his office was a sign reading “We are experts at interpreting exactly, from vague and uncoordinated instructions, what you think you might want”. Fills you with confidence! The following day we collected the piece and refitted it without problem.

The Main Street, Port Vila, Vanuatu's capital

Next day we checked out with Customs, Harbour-master and Immigration before making a final trip down the high street to visit the duty free shop, for which we now qualified. After that it was back to Kurukulla and prepare for a departure next morning. Our plan was to water and fuel first thing and then move to an outer anchorage and dive on the hull to clean it before we headed for New Zealand; hull fouling is not accepted on entry to New Zealand and can result in you being turned away! As ever the plan was a basis for change. The following day we moved alongside the fuelling dock at 0900 to be greeted by the phrase “Sorry we have no diesel, it is being delivered at 1400 today”. OK, we topped up with water and headed back to the buoy instead and cleaned the hull there. Low tide was due to be at 1405 and we are too deep to get into the fuelling berth 2 hours either side of low water; hence, we were forced to wait until 1600 if we wanted fuel and it seemed ridiculous to set off on a 1000 mile voyage without a full fuel tank; if for no other reason, just in case of emergencies. Hence, at 1530 we edged ourselves alongside only to discover that the fuel hadn't arrived and it would now be tomorrow. In order to avoid another days delay we borrowed their wheelbarrow and set off to the local petrol station with 3 jerry cans. Twenty minutes later we were siphoning 65 litres of diesel into the tank on completion of which we paid our berthing dues but by now it was nearly 1700 and 45 minutes before sunset.

Vanuatu waterfront and Parliament Building

Rather than set off in the dark we opted to go back on the buoy and leave at dawn, 0500, next day. I was reminded of the comment by the Navigating Officer of the SS Canberra, in the book “The Great White Whale goes to War”; he said, after working with the Royal Navy for three months during the Falklands War, his one endearing memory of the Royal Navy was the phrase “Stay flexible” and went on to say “By the end of the war I was so flexible I felt like a bendy toy!”. I'm beginning to know how he felt!

Vanuatu to New Zealand

At 0500 on Saturday 19 Oct we set out from Port Vila for New Zealand, 1088 miles away. In almost no wind we motored out of the harbour, passing an old square rigger inbound, and headed south. Fortunately, within half an hour the wind had filled in and we were able to sail. The first stage southwards was to be a fetch, close hauled on port tack, Kurukulla was heeling at 17 or 18 degrees, which makes life onboard uncomfortable, but it did mean we were heading in almost the right direction at good speed, 6kts or so. If ever I get around to writing a book based on this trip it will be titled “Life at an angle!” At this stage the further we headed south the lighter the winds became and the more easterly, meaning that we could lay the direct course for New Zealand most of the time. By midday on day two we were passing Walpole Island (uninhabited), the most southerly island of the New Caledonia archipelago, doing 4-5 kts heading 153°, not far off the 148° needed. Unfortunately, as we cleared the southern end of Walpole Island, the winds backed to SE and we were again back hard on the wind, 45° off the desired course, but this time in only 9-10 kts of wind; at least the seas had subsided, it was almost flat sea sailing! Even this was not to last, by early next morning were 60° off the desired course but because of the forthcoming change of wind direction (if the forecasts were right) we were better placed if we kept making ground to the west.

Walpole Island, New Caledonia, 800 miles to go to NZ

We were also obviously getting further away from the tropics; the wind, although not that strong, was definitely cold enough to require clothes during the day, something we have not been accustomed to since shortly after departing the Canary Islands! The temperature; combined with what became rough and unpredictable seas, giving us frequent dousings; meant that we were forced to break out the full foul weather gear for the first time since before Panama.

My determination to stick on a course taking us to the west evaporated the next day when I found us heading 80° west of our desired course i.e. making virtually no progress towards out objective! We tacked. This was probably a mistake as 12 hours later we ran out of wind and for the next 48 hours languished in frustratingly variable winds, ranging from 4 to 24 kts in strength and up to 90° in direction.

The most successful bread to date.

We found ourselves constantly having to put reefs in and out to reduce or increase sail area, tack for the wind shifts and, on top of this, the stronger winds threw up an even more lumpy sea to supplement the already existing long, 3m high, swell. Not an easy passage! Whether we would have been faster or had an easier passage going further west, who knows? Eventually, with 400 miles to go, it settled into a steady close fetch, on starboard tack, allowing us to relax; for a while; but only for a while!

100 miles later we were becalmed! Overnight, in the 12 hours between sunset and sunrise, we managed exactly 14 miles, not always in the right direction, and in the morning it was not looking much better. As the sun rose we could see “Cats' paws” on the surface of the water around us but no consistent wind. In the long, lazy, swell we were struggling to keep up steerage way and maintain Kurukulla pointing towards New Zealand! By the end of the day we had achieved 44 miles in 24 hours and roughly 20 of those were due to the current carrying us towards New Zealand! Great weather for whale watching (not that we saw any) but useless for sailing!

Flat calm seas en route Vanuatu - New Zealand

The following day was slightly better! We managed 92 miles in a day. The saving grace was a pod of dolphins that came to play under the bow in the pitch dark of the night leaving bright blue trails in the otherwise black sea. Fascinating!

The following day started with a line squall hitting us at dawn. So engrossed was I watching a fantastic red sunrise that I almost didn't see it before it hit us. A glimpse over my shoulder revealed a line of pitch black cloud and very dark sky beyond. By the time I had the genoa triple reefed and was halfway through putting a reef in the mainsail it hit us.

Shipping en route Vanuatu - New Zealand

The winds going from a sedate 6 knots to a robust 28 knots, changing direction from NW to SW and bringing on heavy rain. Fortunately with genoa reefed and the reef in the main completed we were not totally over canvassed but it was close! Of course it lasted all of 20 minutes before the winds started to moderate and within the hour we were back struggling to make way in 6 knots of wind and the residual sea! The joys of seafaring!

On the 11^th day we reached Bay of Islands, New Zealand. We were still hard on the wind but laying the course but for a few degrees. Until.... as we approached the entrance to the bay the wind rose to 30 knots and backed 30°. Great, my estimate of arrival time at Opua, given to the authorities only an hour before by VHF was now hopelessly optimistic! We arrived at 1515 not the 1400 I had earlier predicted and rather wetter and more windswept than anticipated; but we were there! We moored alongside the quarantine pier and were met by representatives of the Customs Service and Bio Security Service. Both were efficient, effective and welcoming.

View from the Opua Cruising Club, Bay of Islands, NZ

We had rather dreaded the Bio Security clearance as they warned in the advance information that virtually any foodstuffs onboard would be seized; not true, we discovered that tinned goods were almost totally exempt from the ban and in the event no foodstuffs were removed for destruction, just our refuse. They were also very keen to know when Kurukulla had last been anti-fouled (Panama – May 2019) and when and where the last bottom clean had taken place (Vanuatu, Port Vila – Before departure). As we had photographic evidence of the former and a log entry in the ships log recording the latter we were passed without inspection.

And they worry about fouling on your boat!

On completion we moved to our permanent berth in the marina, only to note that the piles supporting the pontoons were covered in barnacles! If a barnacle had been found on our hull we would have been required to haul out and be cleaned before being given a permit to stay! Slight double standards....

And they worry about fouling on your boat!

I am now returning to UK for 2 weeks after which it is a gentle cruise south to Auckland for Christmas, more from there ….....