Bodrum and beyond.

Leaving Karaada for the last time

After a second tranquil night in Karaada, including a night swim in the most amazing phosphorescence, we sailed off the anchor to head south through the straits between the Greek Island of Khios and the Turkish mainland at Cesme. Our destination was Sigacik which we reached just after dark. The final leg was a close reach in the falling light of sunset and we reached the entrance to the marina just after dark. This would have been fine but for an error in the pilot which misidentified one of the lights marking the entrance and caused some confusion. That sorted out we made a safe entry and found Camilla berthed on the opposite side of the pontoon to which we were allotted. They had motored a large part of the way to be sure to get in before dusk.

Sigacik entrance and fishing port

Sigacik is an ancient town with walled defences and a castle at the harbour entrance. Quite picturesque but overwhelmed by the adjacent marina development which is very new and modern.

After victualling the next day we headed off for Kusadasi stopping en route at Dogan Bay, another hot spring venue, for a late lunch and swim. This was somewhat curtailed by our time of arrival but more importantly by persistent swarms of biting flies.

Arrival at Kusadasi was again at sunset but this time we managed to sail through the entrance before darkness fell. Our plan was to remain two days and hire a car to visit the ancient city of Ephesus, the second largest city of the Roman Empire outside Rome. Hence the next day was spent doing the tourist bit!

Ephasus - South Gate of Commercial Agora

The remains are impressive in size and scale but disappointingly are being subject to a considerable degree of reconstruction; it seems a heresy. That evening we victualled again and spent the evening touring the town of Kusadasi. Very highly touristified but pleasant none the less. I even managed a haircut at 0030 in the morning and a coffee on the waterfront at 0200!

After our dose of culture we pressed on south passing through the straits between Samos (Gr) and Dipburnu (Tr) in the course of which we received close attention from a Greek Border Patrol launch. Our destination was Port St Paul, a small bay where St Paul reputedly took refuge to rest the oarsmen when struggling northwards against the Meltemi (strong N wind). The bay was beautiful but the holding poor and unpredictable.

Ephesus - Celcus library rear left

We thoroughly enjoyed the evening there but next morning the anchor started dragging in the thin sand and weed on the bottom and so it was that we set off earlier than planned for our next port, Asin Limani.

Lunch at Gulluk

It was from here that Ale and Ray were to depart for Bodrum airport for their return to UK. Asin Limani, harbour is guarded by an ancient Byzantine Tower and the hill above has an extensive fort with remains dating back to 3000BC. In the event, to make their journey to the airport easier, we ferried Ray and Ale over to Gulluk, which is 4 miles away on the other side of the gulf. After a very good lunch and saying goodbye, Steve and I returned to the less exposed town quay in Asin Limani. That evening we took a pair of beers ashore and sat on the hilltop to watch the sun set, magical, surrounded by so much history.

Self at Castle entrance, Asin Limani

Med moored at Asin Limani

From here it was southwards again to a beautiful tree lined bay on the north side of the Bodrum peninsula at Demir. All the other boats which were there when we arrived had departed before sunset leaving Camilla and ourselves to enjoy the solitude. The only habitation was a large house at the head of the bay with its own jetty and boat slipway. From here it was onwards to Gumusluk, another pleasant, narrow, inlet on the west facing side of the Bodrum peninsula. As we drew closer the weather started to deteriorate and the seas became more uncomfortable hence we were more than happy to reach port only to find that half the world was also sheltering here! Eventually we found a spot with sufficient swinging room to anchor, albeit with occasionally only 5 ft clearance from the bowsprit of another vessel! David in Camilla arrived an hour later, however, after a couple of attempts at anchoring he decided not to remain in such a tight anchorage and braved the conditions again to head south to a marina 5 miles away.

Cokertme

Sunset at Catalada

From here it was to Aspat Koyu, a bay open to the SE but reasonably sheltered from the prevailing winds; here we anchored in the northerly, less populated, of the two bays. Another idyllic spot with a palm lined beach and a small water-sports complex. Next morning it was onwards to Bodrum where we entered the marina to await the arrival, that evening, of the next two crew members; Mike and Melvin were returning for another spell in Kurukulla. They duly arrived shortly before midnight in the company of several additional members of the sailing club who were joining other boats involved in a week long charter. The charter route took us to Cokertme, Cleopatra's Beach (constructed artificially for Mark Anthony) and then on a beat to windward out of the gulf via English Harbour (where we ghosted in after dark), Seven Islands (North Cove) and then back to Cokertme (where we had an excellent group meal ashore) and Aktur Tesisleri (where a beach BBQ had been planned by the charter company). After all this we accompanied the charter fleet back to the base for the majority at Yalikavak Marina for the final night. Here we said goodbye to three additional crew members who had joined us from Camilla two days before when she set off along the south coast towards Marmaris.

The following day we anchored off the island of Catalada for the night before dropping off Mike and Melvin at Turgetreis Marina for their return to UK via a night in Bodrum.

Turgetreis being a port of entry it was also possible to check Kurukulla, Steve and myself out of Turkey thereby avoiding overstaying our 3 month visas and allowing us to legally set off for Greece again. This took three hours but only because the offices were initially open but completely deserted due to the lunchtime siesta! Nothing changes...........

Back to Turkey and the bureaucracy of re-entry in a months time!

Currently we are anchored off Catalada again, for tonight, and will enter Greece at Kos tomorrow.

Heading south.

Sigri restaurant

Alongside at Mitilini

The visit to the first port in Lesbos went extremely well. We anchored in the bay at Sigri late in the evening with a beautiful sunset. The bay is shallow and good holding at the northern end. Next morning we moved alongside and I set off to visit the delightful young lady manning the Helenic Coastguard office. She duly stamped my forms, chatted very sweetly and informed me that I was berthed on a military jetty (which was virtually derelict but matters not) where I could not remain for more than a very brief visit. The only downside was that gas was not available in 3kg bottles in the village and so we were later destined to head for the capital of Lesbos, Mitilini, on the east coast, where gas was guaranteed to be available. After a very good lunch in a bistro overlooking the bay we sailed off the jetty and headed for the south coast of Lesbos to find a suitable bay for an anchorage. Around 1900 we chose a beach, headed in and anchored in 6m for the night, the wind was forecast to remain light and offshore and so it did.

Mitilini waterfront

Next morning we sailed the remaining distance to Mitilini and were greeted by a very polite, but equally firm, Port Police official who invited us to berth on the quarantine berth and undergo the entire re-entry procedure for entry into Greece, he was having nothing of my already existing stamps in my cruising log from Sigri, only two days earlier. Thus it was that I spent an hour and 25€ re entering Greece formally, only to have to go through the whole process at 0800 the next morning to exit Greece again. The only advantage was that the duty free shop in the quarantine area was open when we were forced to berth there again for our departure; thus we were able to restock the drinks cupboard. Our overnight berth had been on the town quay and we had found a delightful, characterful, taverna in the back-streets for supper.

Victualling at Ayvalik

Supper at Ayvalik

From Lesbos it was back to Turkey and into Ayvalik to meet up with Ale and Ray. They had both travelled up from Bodrum by bus after flying out from UK. Fortunately this time we did not get involved with bureaucracy! That night was spent in Ayvalik with supper ashore in a very local eating area reminiscent of the stalls in Singapore. Good food, ridiculously low prices.

Hot springs at Bademli Limani

From here it was on to Bademli Limani. This is a delightful anchorage sheltered by two off-lying islands and with hot springs along the mainland coast. We spent two nights here, the first anchored in the shelter of the northern end of the anchorage and then the next night, after the wind had abated, anchored off the hot springs where we spent a very pleasant afternoon and evening soaking ourselves in the naturally heated pools. Someone had even constructed a rough and ready 4m x 5m indoor pool to retain the hot water.

Dennis ashore at Kizkulesi Adasi, Mardalic.

From here it was southwards again to the small island of Mardalic where we anchored in the small bay on the NW side for lunch; an idyllic anchorage and then onwards to Eski Foca for the night and the departure of Dennis back to Holland. We spent the night berthed on the town quay, under the castle, and next morning despatched Dennis to Izmir airport in a local minibus, so packed with people it was bursting to capacity!

After Dennis's departure we sailed out across the Gulf of Izmir and down the west coast as far as Egri Limani, a deep fissure parallel to the coast where we intended to spend the night. On arrival we anchored in a small bay on the western side in the shelter of the headland and passed the afternoon sunning and swimming. At 1900 the wind changed direction and started blowing hard from the east. To give ourselves more room we re-anchored further up the inlet but even this was tight once we had deployed all 50 m of the anchor chain! Throughout the night we had to keep anchor-watches as the wind gusted up to 50 almost knots and swung between E and N.

The calm of the morning. Anchorage at Egri Limani

Next morning, the wind abated slightly, we all caught up on our lost sleep and then set off for the island of Karaada, only 7 miles south. Weighing anchor took some time as we found as we hauled the anchor in that we had also caught a large, discarded, fishing net which had been half buried in the mud on the bottom. This had probably helped to keep us in place the night before! As we exited the bay we also met up again with Camilla, with David and Filip aboard. They had just sailed round from Izmir. Both boats anchored in the eastern bay on the south coast of Karaada and conditions were so good that we were able to raft up for the night. Supper for all in Kurukulla followed by a midnight swim in the calm, phosphorescent, waters of the bay.

View from Karaada, eastern bay

Lunch the next day was in Camilla after which we set off to Dalyankoy, a port on the mainland, where the pilot recommends sampling the fish restaurants. Our intention was to remain overnight, the reality was that the marina staff waved us off, informing us that the marina was full for the night. Thus it was that we decided to return to Karaanda and spend another night in a slightly different anchorage. Paradise is hard to resist!

Back in the Mediterranean

Erdek viewed from the headland

WWI minelayer TCG NUSRET and Canakkale behind

From Erdek we sailed across to the fishing port of Karabiga where we went alongside the inner quay. Trevor, Hilary, Richard and Lauren set off ashore to photograph the medieval wall whilst Steve and I sorted out the boat a bit and prepared supper. Initially the berth was quite comfortable but as the evening drew on the swell started to work its way in and before retiring for the night we decided life would be more comfortable in we moved out and anchored in the bay. This we did and all had a good nights sleep. Next morning we set off for at 0700 Canakkale and enjoyed a spanking good sail down the Dardanelles, downwind, poled out, in a blow and touching 9 knots over the ground at times, (a following 2-3 knot current helped!).

Dennis at the helm

We berthed in Canakkale at 1630, three hours earlier than we had predicted. Next day the Croziers took their leave and Steve and I set about re victualling for the next leg of the cruise. 36 hours later, at 0200 Saturday, Dennis arrived after being delayed by an hour on the Ankara – Canakkale leg of his flight from Holland. Eight hours later we left Canakkale for the last time in 2011 and headed

SW out of the Dardanelles and southwards to the Turkish island of Bozcaada.

Here we sailed past Bozcaada town and headed for the quiet anchorages on the south coast. Steve and I had had enough of town life! After supper and a film onboard we all retired for a quiet night; so quiet that the first to wake was myself at 1000! Under-way by 1200 we set off for the Greek island of Lesbos, back in Greece for the first time in over a month, now to do battle with the Greek authorities when tomorrow

Shipping in the sunset

I try to get them to re-stamp my Greek cruising permit which is supposed to be stamped but the port police at least once a month! I'll let you know how it went in the next entry.

Au revoir Istanbul

Sultanahmet (Blue) Mosque and Aya Sofia from seaward

Departing view of the Bosphorus

As planned, on the day after Melvin's departure, Steve Keley and I sailed Kurukulla out to the Princes Islands, spending the night anchored in Heybeliada again, From there we went onwards to Tuzla, where we spent the second night anchored in the bay and then back to the Princes Islands, Manastir Bay (where we spent a very rocky night) before returning to Anakoy Marina. Trevor and family had very kindly invited us to join them for dinner that night before they all repaired onboard the next day. The aim of the brief trip was to allow Steve to become conversant with Kurukulla before the Croziers' arrived onboard as none of them has ever sailed before. After flying the spinnaker, sailing on and off the anchor and several man overboard drills we considered the aim achieved.

As planned the Croziers' joined at 1130 and following morning; after stowing their gear and sorting out the domestics we set off for a victualling run to the local supermarket. Needless to say we returned loaded like beasts of burden but at least we now have enough onboard for at least a week, stand-fast fresh foods. Later that same afternoon we sailed for a very gentle reach to............. you have guessed it …......... the Princes Islands, Heybeliada, for a final visit and a tranquil first night at anchor for the new arrivals.

Swim on arrival at Topagac

Next morning we reached across the bay, in a brisk wind, to the entrance to the Bosphorus and did the tourist cruise for a second time but this time only as far as the first bridge. On completion we had a gentle-ish sail (Solent rig – Genoa only) 18 miles along the coast to Guzelce Marina for a second tranquil night.

Cosy with the derelict fishing boat

Topagac beach

Topagac waterfront

Thursday morning we set off relatively early, 1030, to sail south westwards across the shipping lanes to Marmara, A goose-winged, dead run, all the way; average speed 6.5 knots. Just as we drew level with the eastern end of the island of Marmara a pod of 6 – 8 dolphins joined us and played under the bow for ten or so minutes, creating great excitement onboard. At 1830 we arrived at Topagac where we anchored in the bay for an early evening swim before moving into the harbour for the night. Topagac breakwater is being extended and the only berth we could find was adjacent to the construction machines at the inner end of the breakwater. Lack of space required us to share it with a semi derelict fishing boat; the combination of dust and wind will provide a washing down challenge for later! It being Ramadan the town is almost deserted and very few of the shops etc. are open, that is those that look as though they have traded recently, many more look as though they have been deserted for several years. Topagac is a town which looks to be in its last throes of dying, the people however are really friendly and welcoming. Almost nobody passes you in the street without saying the one word of English they know “welcome”.

After a relatively quiet night, shortened for some by being serenaded by a drummer marching up and down the jetty at 0600 (Ramadan results in people being up and around before dawn to eat and pray; food is not permitted between dawn and dusk), fortunately some of us (i.e. me) did not hear his practising! A brief trip into town for bread, an hour or so on the beach and then another windy downwind sail, again under Solent rig, to Pasalimani. The dolphins again obliged by providing a 15 minute display of games around the boat before deserting us as we turned into the more tranquil waters of the Pasalimani anchorage. Some took the opportunity to stretch their legs ashore and I took the opportunity to renew my acquaintance with the restaurateur and book a table for that night. I need not have worried, as the afternoon went on the wind became stronger and stronger until we debated whether we would even be able to take up our booking, ultimately we donned life and foul weather jackets and braved the elements in the dinghy. We were greeted like family, had a good meal (not quite what we thought we had pre ordered but no one minded), were the only customers that night, and finally returned to the boat at 2230.

On Saturday morning the mullahs gave us our now customary morning call at 0500; every mosque, however small, has high power loudspeakers to summon the faithful to prayer (and we complain about church bells!). We then set off at the ungodly hour of 0600 to take advantage of the lighter (relatively speaking, it was still gusting 35+ knots) morning winds.

Ocaklar beach

We motored rather than sail in the gusty conditions for the seven miles to the beach anchorage at Ocaklar for a day of relaxation and then as the evening drew close moved into the harbour at Erdek for a second visit. As last time we were welcomed by the locals many of whom know only one word of English “welcome”.

Arriving at Erdek

From here it is three or four days to Canakkale and another crew change. More from there.

Finally in Istanbul

Supper at Erdek

Erdek was a great place. No sooner were we stern to the town quay than a helpful local was connecting us to power and supplying us with water! From here we set off ashore to research a place for a cold draft beer and a meal for the evening. The former was soon found, the latter took a bit more research and even then was good but not great. The town and waterfront more than made up for the mediocre food though. Next morning we set about doing some victualling in the local supermarket and then sailed after lunch for the Pasalimani Islands again.

Anchored at Pasalimani

This time we entered the anchorage at Pasalimani, via the western entrance, under sail and dropped anchor off the hamlet of Pasalimani. A very small collection of houses with a single restaurant (where we had lunch the following day), a bakery and a tiny general store; plus of course the mandatory mosque! As we anchored on the verge of sunset it was supper onboard and then a trip ashore next day to research the locality. During our stroll we were given cucumbers by a lady in a burqa, who just happened to be walking in the opposite direction, and almost not allowed to pass the local bakery without entering to inspect their bread, which we of course felt obliged to buy!

Waterfront at Pasalimani

We concluded our visit with lunch in the only restaurant and a promise to the owner to visit again on the return passage.

Quarries at Saraylar, north coast of Marmara Island

From here we sailed off the anchor and headed for the north shore of the island of Marmara, a desolated place with horrendous (if impressive) marble quarries adorning most of its north coast, rather reminiscent of the china clay quarries of Dartmoor and Bodmin Moor. En route we had a close encounter with a 750 ton Turkish ferry who, on meeting us “head to head” at a headland, insisted on altering course to port (contrary to international regulations) and squeezing between us and the land, 50ft clearance either side, all at 15 knots, amazing what risks some of these supposedly professional seafarers will run just to avoid an extra 20 – 30 yards of distance run. That night we anchored in Saraylar, on the eastern side of the harbour, with supper onboard and then Mike and Melvin went for a brief walk ashore. They described it as a mining town full of immigrant workers from the south of Turkey. Not a great run ashore.

Marina at Guzelce

Next morning it was off, northwards, across the shipping separation scheme, to Marmara Eregli; an oil port on the north shore of the Sea of Marmara. The bay was dominated by a large oil terminal and a storage / refining facility ashore. In the NNW corner we found a suitable place to anchor, and went ashore for a beer and supper in a rather temporary looking wooden bar/café behind the adjacent beach. The food was better than expected though and we finally returned onboard well after sunset. Not a scenic place but welcoming all the same.

Naval Academy in the Princes Islands

Next day we made a passage to Guzelce Marina, described as being on the outskirts of Istanbul but in reality 20 miles to the west. A rather desolate place with little to recommend it other than its price, 65TFL (£26) an night as opposed to the €66 (£60) .a night we were later to pay in Atakoy Marina nearer the city. From here we decided to visit the Princes Islands; these are just outside the southern end of the Bosphorus. The islands are evidently the millionaires playground for Istanbul. We ghosted in at around sunset and anchored in a bay on the south coast of Heybeliada, in the shadow of the Turkish Naval Academy, between several super yachts. We were subsequently to spent the night listening to their generators, after all, how else do you keep all your upper-deck and under-water lighting on all night? Not great but the water was clean enough to swim and the anchorage well protected.

Fantastic houses on the Asian side of the Bosphorus

The following morning we set sail early, cruised between the islands and finally entered the Bosphorus. After the first two miles we were forced to resort to the engine, lack of space outside the shipping separation scheme, foul current and contrary winds all led to slow progress but we did get halfway to the Black Sea before turning back and a very enjoyable trip it was too.

The Blue Mosque and Aya Sofia

We attempted to anchor at Bebek, on the west bank, for lunch but almost as soon as we had convinced ourselves that the anchorage was tight but tenable in amongst all the other boats moored there, the current changed direction and we found ourselves far too close to adjacent boats so it was a delayed lunch and a rapid departure. That evening we arrived in Atakoy Marina where we were to meet up again with Camilla and her crew, although our paths were not to cross before the next morning. This had something to do with their mid evening return from the city centre, 2 hours after our departure, and our return at 0600. Istanbul is an all night city and full of life but................. when will I ever learn that all night runs ashore are for 16 year old's not 61 year old's! Needless to say the hangover wore off a few hours into the next day.

Panorama of Bebek

We have now been in Atakoy, doing the tourist bit, for four days; Mike and Melvin have now departed for UK and Steve Keley has joined; he is now in Kurukulla for the next three months having taken a sabbatical from work. The plan is to leave tomorrow and revisit the Princess Islands before returning on the 1^st / 2^nd to pick up the Croziers (a friend from school days and his family) from Atakoy.

Istanbul by night

Sultanahmet (Blue) Mosque

Supper at the local fish market

More once they are onboard.

On to Istanbul

Canakkale marina and the Turkish commemoration

Clock Tower, Canakkale

Batteries for Camilla in Canakkale there were not but Mike Kear and Melvin Parkinson joined Kurukulla, as planned, on the morning of Tuesday the 12^th; thus it was that we finally left Canakkale in the early hours of Wednesday morning, 0400 to be precise, in order to take advantage of the lighter early morning winds. Sailing against wind and current was out of the question and so we motored upstream, staying in the shallows to avoid the worst of the current. By 0830 we were anchored in the harbour at Lapseki and passed a lazy day resting and sunning.

Sunset parade at Lapseki

Camilla arrived an hour and a half later just as the winds started to bite, they were somewhat less keen on the early start!

Happy skipper, beer in hand.

Next morning was a similar routine only this time we opted for a 0600 start, again leaving Camilla to catch up later. Our objective was Karabiga, inside the Sea of Marmara, some 40 miles away but again upwind. We motored for the first hour and a half and then, once clear of the Dardanelles, we set a full main and the No 2 genoa, it having been rigged whilst we were in Canakkale. After four hours we were overtaken by Camilla motoring at full power into wind and at 1700 we joined them alongside in Karabiga to be regaled with their stories of having hit a rock at 6 knots whilst trying to find a suitable anchorage for lunch! A quick inspection of her keel-bolts and a later dive on the outside revealed that no movement or serious damage was visible; lucky! That evening, after supper in Kurukulla, we decided that the send in the harbour was making it too uncomfortable for the two boats to remain alongside each other and so we took Kurukulla out into the bay, in the shelter of the headland, and anchored for what proved to be a very comfortable night.

Swimming or diving in the Sea of Marmara is severely curtailed by the number of jelly fish, there are literally millions, and we have yet to find an anchorage which is not swarming with them. The locals seem very prepared to take their chances and swim amongst them but I have to say I am not so sure!

Our next destination was a bay on the south side of the island of Pasalimani Adasi, near Balikli.

Camilla close to leeward

This time Camilla lost patience with light wind sailing and motored on ahead whilst we sailed the distance. Their first attempt to anchor in our chosen bay was rebutted by a group of ladies in burqas who invited them to leave, presumably a women only beach! We joined them at an adjacent beach a couple of hours later. This time it was supper in Camilla followed by a film, “Mrs Dalloway”, in Kurukulla.

The following day we sailed off the anchor and headed across the Marmara Bogasi (the strait separating Marmara Adasi from the mainland) to Topagac on the SE coast of Marmara Adasi. On the way we had some close tacking practice and a fun sail on the wind.

The port at Topagac, Marmara Adasi

The anchorage in the bay was somewhat open but given the benign conditions seemed suitable for the night, and so it proved.

Ocaklar on Kapidag peninsula

Next morning Camilla set off in the early hours for an earlier appointment in Istanbul and Kurukulla sailed back to the Kapidag Peninsula for lunch anchored in the bay at Ocaklar (the Brighton of this part of Turkey, but sandy); en route we had another encounter with a group of playful dolphins. From here it is onwards to Erdek for the night and supper ashore in a restaurant.