Under-way for 2012

Departing Yacht Marin (in background), Marmaris

I finally managed to leave Marmaris just one day late; this was due to a problem with the fitting of the new alternator. TMS staff insisted that I needed a new intelligent regulator to go with the new alternator, the only problem was they sacked the electrician doing the job halfway through (personal clash with management, nothing to do with Kurukulla); the result was more time spent trying to decide what had been done and how! Not clever.

In the clear blue skies of Friday 4^th of May, at 1600, we set off for the anchorage at Gerbekse to pass a couple of days sorting out and shaking down. Nothing like getting away from the dockyard to really find out what works and what does not! The first thing that did not work was the Sterling regulator. It tripped out after 30 minutes on a high battery temperature trip. A quick check of the batteries disproved that but the regulator steadfastly refused to reset. After a few minutes head scratching I identified the problem, the wiring to the battery temperature sensor and the alternator temperature sensor had been crossed resulting in the alternator temperature, normally very much higher than the batteries, tripping the battery temperature trip. This resolved we got under-way again, by now it was getting towards dusk.

Gerbekse anchorage

Arrival in the anchorage was simple but there were several other boats there too and insufficient room left to swing at anchor. The only solution was to drop the anchor in the middle, back up to the rocks and swim a line ashore. It was a brief and invigorating late evening skinny dip, much to the amusement of the young, partying, UK holidaymakers on an adjacent gullet. Despite their shouts of encouragement I still did not get invited to swim over for a drink! Can't think why!

Next morning I had a good session washing down the decks and getting rid of as much of the sanding dust as possible, clearing the scupper drains, all interspersed with the odd swim and washing down of the hull. By the end things were looking much better. The weather was ideal, sunshine, light breeze and complete calm inside the anchorage. So much so that I decided to continue working on Kurukulla and stay another night.

Kizil Adasi anchorage

The following morning the wind was starting to build early and so after a swim to free the stern line we set off west towards Bozburum and to take leave of Turkey. The wind was, as predicted, on the nose until the turn north 16 miles down the coast. This equated to three hours motoring but on the plus side another chance to test the alternator. Once heading north towards Bozburum it was a fantastic beam reach in light winds for the next two and a half hours before anchoring a mile and a half short of the harbour on the east side of the island of Kizil Adasi; a splendid, secluded anchorage with only goats and sheep for company. I anchored close in to the beach, in 7m of water but it was so clear the bottom looked as though you could reach out and touch it! The first night of real peace and solitude.

Embarking dinner

Next morning I pottered around the boat giving it another scrub down and sorted out a few more of the minor defects on the list. A local fisherman/goatherd arrived shouting at the top of his voice, interested I watched with fascination as all the goats gathered on the foreshore to meet him. They were obviously used to him arriving with some food, choosing his passengers for the return journey and heading back. This time he embarked a nanny goat but her kid had not appeared. Some minutes later he was spotted watching proceedings from afar and after another brief stop against the rocks he too was embarked, tonight's meal I rather suspect! After lunch I set off to enter the harbour at Bozburun and do battle with bureaucracy; I was not to be disappointed!

Bozburun High Street

After entering the port I berthed in virtually the same spot as that which I had occupied some 6 months before when re-entering Turkey. First things first, a brief trip to the supermarket to get some victuals followed by the trip to the harbourmaster's office. Here I was greeted with a locked door, the immigration police officer informed me that the harbourmaster was away and would I come back tomorrow. Having explained that tomorrow I was not planning to be in Turkey he relented and assured me that if I came back in an hour the harbourmaster would have returned. Sure enough he did, only to inform me that I was not now allowed to organise my own departure, I needed to employ an “Agent”! Where was that helpful official of last October? Apparently any vessel over 10 tons net (Kurukulla is not but he would not accept that as the registration certificate says 0.0 Net tons!) has to use an agent at a cost of 30€. The only alternative was to go to the bank myself and pay 9.30TL into the correct account and return with the receipt; the only problem was it had to be paid into a branch of Garanti Bank and the nearest branch was in Marmaris! The next bus was tomorrow and it takes 2 hours! The debate lasted 20 minutes by the end of which I was getting no where and so I decided his friend, the agent, was probably worth his 30€ just to avoid me loosing my patience. I found the Atlas Agency, in town, and employed him for the purpose of getting my clearance; it took 30 minutes and one visit to the harbourmaster! He has internet banking with Garanti Bank!

By 1830 it was all finished and I exited the harbour to go to anchor at the north end of the same island as the night before, ready to escape northwards through the Kizil Adasi Channel and head directly for Simi the next day.

Simi waterfront

The following morning dawned clear and bright but without a breath of wind. It was a two and a half hour motor to Simi and even at the start of the afternoon, when the wind usually sets in, it was still oily calm. I arrived in Simi at 1300 to be greeted by a very friendly Port Police official who took my lines and invited me to set about the “Merry Go Round” of entering Greece. First Port Police, then Immigration Police, then Customs and finally back to Harbour master/Coast Guard to pay! All went well until I got back to the Harbour Master's office where I was second in line to a French skipper who was having a very similar discussion to mine of the day before. Being strongly European he was having none of this “stupid Greek bureaucracy” and telling the young girl behind the desk so in no uncertain terms; needless to say she, being the one in uniform, dug her heels in and eventually he paid (having borrowed some change from me, Greek Authorities never have change). I tried my best to be polite and co-operative and 20€ and several minutes later walked out without hassle, having been complimented with “how much more co-operative the British are”; it never pays to upset officialdom in Mediterranean countries, no matter how young and inexperienced they look; sometimes, however, it is difficult not to! On my return to the boat the French skipper was in the waterside bar, at the stern of Kurukulla, waiting for me and wishing to repay the debt; the interest amounted to him buying me a Mythos, local beer, as well!

Next it was off to the mobile phone shop to organise internet connectivity, but not so fast; the restaurants are open but normal shops are closed, today is a public holiday (Tuesday!) to commemorate the independence of the Dodecanese islands from the Italians? British?, no one seemed quite sure but they were happy to have a day off anyway. That being the case it was an evening alongside in Simi and wait for tomorrow when the shop will be open at 0900.

Church guarding Nimos Passage, Simi

The berthing in Simi is stern to the quay as normal, but that means that you are exposed to the constant noise of passing traffic; not that there is a vast quantity on an island as small as this but Greek youths are equally prone to massive sound systems in their cars and “tweaking” the silencers on their motorbikes as are the British: they then drive around late into the night! Not exactly conducive to a good night's sleep!

Departing Livadhia, Tilos

Next morning it was off at 0900, back to the only mobile phone shop in town; at 0930 the owner also deigned to arrive despite his sign giving 0900 as the opening time! Within 20 minutes I was sorted out with a Cosmote SIM card for the dongle, €40 for 1 month and 5Gb, something else that is much cheaper in Turkey! Back to the boat and away. We set sail through the Nimos Passage and away to the south west; minor problem, no wind! Four hours of motoring later we arrived in Livadhia on the island of Tilos, a beautiful bay, suitable for anchoring in the early season, before the Meltemi (N winds) starts, and as tranquil as you could wish. A swim, a sunbathe and supper, what more could a man want? Next day it was off to the island of Nisiros to pick up my nephew, Simon, who was joining for 5 days. One strange fact. The promenade at Livadhia is little more than a track along the waterfront of a sparsely inhabited island but it has streetlights! Loads of them and on all night. With a population of 200 it must be cheaper to provide each inhabitant with a torch, that way they can even use it to defend themselves if attacked in the night!

Distant view of Nisiros

One reef and well heeled

After a couple of hours sorting Kurukulla out we got under-way at 1100 and set off for Nisiros. Initially the wind was variable and light so the trip was part under sail and part engine. By 1530 the wind had fillled in and we entered the narrows between Nisiros and the western islands of Pakhia and Periousa with a reef in and well heeled. On the basis that I did not want to spend the night in Mandraki harbour on Nisiros in such conditions, I headed for the anchorage at Periousa for the night. A good decision, as I sailed towards the bay on the eastern side I set about getting ready to anchor, genoa rolled up, tack for the beach, start engine, start engine...... not very keen! Change of plan, anchor under sail and then sort out why the engine won't start! Safely anchored I then started investigating the problem. Seemed like fuel starvation. After working my way back from the fuel lift pump to the fuel tank via filters, separators etc. I finally discovered that the fuel suction from the tank was blocked! Disconnected, and following a hearty blow down the pipe, it cleared, but for how long? Next morning I sailed across to Mandraki to pick up Simon but I was still dubious about the engines reliability, it started perfectly for the berthing manoeuvre but....... when might it next decide not to co-operate. A helpful port policeman indicated the berth he wanted me to take and invited me to go up to the office and present my papers, again..... every port you enter needs a copy of all your papers, how else will they keep the masses employed and the waste paper merchants busy!

Waterfront at Mandraki, Nisiros. Kurukulla nearest.

Simon arrived on the ferry from Kos half an hour later and, having got him settled onboard, we set off to do some victualling in the town and stopped for a brief beer on the way back to the boat. All this done we sailed off the berth and back to the anchorage at Periousa where we again anchored under sail. Here we spent the evening, concocting a version of jambalaya and sampling the newly acquired Greek wines.

Morning bath and dhobi

Next morning dawned grey and with slight drizzle. We decided to stay put for a few hours and I decided to investigate the interior of the fuel tank. With the inspection hatch open I recruited Simon's assistance to hoover out the gunge in the bottom of the tank, not very much but some bits of debris big enough to have caused the problem. That done the tank was closed up again; confidence restored in the engine.

After lunch we sailed off the anchor and across to Kamares in Kos where we anchored between three other boats on the southern side of the jetty. It is a small holiday town with not a lot to recommend it other than an anchorage with good holding and a few shops and tavernas.

More once we are in Kos town....................

Back onboard - the start of 2012

The new teak deck

Well, here I am back in Marmaris with the winter refit drawing to a close and planning to set sail northwards on the 3rd of May. The new wooden deck on Kurukulla looks great, shame about the mess they made inside her whilst doing it. A lot of evidence of lack of supervision of the workforce, (I've got my old Superintendent Ships hat on); most of the cups, mugs etc. had been used and left unwashed over a period of months, plus dust and shavings everywhere. Not sure why we ever bothered giving the boat a thorough clean before we left her! Having said all that the workmanship on the deck is good and I have paid only just over half of the figure quoted in both Italy and Malta!

Some of the debris!

On the way in, anti-fouling complete

Tuesday was a major milestone day. Anti-fouling finished, underwater maintenance done, Kurukulla went back in the water; the engine flashed up first time, there were no leaks and all was well. All of this was followed by a bit more excitement of which more later.

Marmaris is a great place to keep the boat and like for like it is, in my view, much much cheaper than Italy or Greece. My contract for 6 months on the hard, for a 12 metre boat, comes to €1848 (=£1540 at today's rates) and this includes the lift out and launch, the €55 for a pressure wash on lift out, plus the €50 cost of a cradle for the whole period.

Part way through antifouling

In the marina there are about 1500 boats that winter here; facilities include a clubhouse bar serving beer at 5.25TL (=£1.88) a pint (during Happy Hour it gets even better at 3.00TL (£1.07!), swimming pool, full restaurant where a main course costs around 20TL (=£7.15) , (or alternatively there is a canteen where a local fare, hot meal, inc. desert, costs 7TL (=£2.50)), sports centre and that modern essential free WiFi. All of this with power and water provided at metered cost and a half hourly dolmus (minibus) into town at 3TL each way (=£1.10).

The on-site assistance including TMS the company who replaced the deck on Kurukulla

It seems there are 150+ live-aboards who spend their winter here afloat and form quite a close society. Last Sunday there was a boat jumble and BBQ organised by Yacht Marin staff and tomorrow there is a group discussion on the new Turkish visa system.
Last Tuesday I was invited to drinks onboard Sandivina, Peter Wilson's yacht, which he keeps in Netsel Marina, situated on the outskirts of town. Peter is a friend from my Royal Navy days and has, like me, embarked on extensive sailing (and in his case golfing) for his retirement. By comparison Netsel is certainly a smarter and more upmarket marina. It is also popular with live-aboards but the down side is it costs more and has much less shore storage space than Yacht Marin where Kurukulla wintered.

The swimming pool, Kurukulla's mast is in the distance.

In addition to all the other facilities at Yacht Marin there is a supermarket on site which is well stocked with all that you might need, more expensive than Marmaris town, but not by much, and cheaper than UK if you avoid the imported products. A very helpful chandler. Sail-makers, engineers, representatives of most of the well known marine equipment brands; all are at hand. It makes the yard where I wintered in Italy look very poor value and desperately inconvenient. This place even has clean loos and hot showers in abundance!
Flights are via Dalaman, where Easy Jet, Monarch or Thomas Cook are the low cost options, and then there is your transfer which takes an hour by dolmus and costs between 10 and 30 TL (£3.60 and £10.70) depending on demand; taxis are much more at €60 (£50).

They certainly pack them in! Camilla on left.

The whole place seems to use an amalgam of € and TL to price everything but they accept either and some places even sterling; I have been able to settle the bill for my deck in sterling, exchanged at interbank rate, without any exchange fees.

Entrance to bar and restaurant.

All in all, wintering here in Marmaris has been a great success and I have already booked in provisionally for next winter.

BBQ garden with health centre (green) in background

Since getting out here I have been busy preparing and anti-fouling the hull, installing a new instrument system and fitting a new alternator, both of which were procured a year ago and not fitted due to a rushed departure from Brindisi. In addition I have been undertaking major surgery on the main-sheet traveller which had shed it's bearings and whose end stops on the track refused point blank all of my efforts to remove one, this was necessary in order that I could repair the traveller. That wonderful combination of aluminium fittings and stainless steel bolts had corroded together never to come apart again. After a few hours of hammering one bolt came free and the other two have been cut off and the design modified to allow refitting of the end-stop without removing them completely.

East side of the  four sided N, E, S, W, bar.

Whilst progressing these tasks I have also been generally trying to get a grip on the mess down in the main cabin. The up side is that I have already negotiated a substantial discount from TMS, the contractor, for taking on the task of cleaning the interior of the boat myself. Having seen their efforts at cleaning there was no alternative. It really feels a bit like being the ships company, in a refit, in the early days of FSL (Fleet Support Ltd - Portsmouth Dockyard's management company at the time I was Sup. Ships)!

The restaurant.

If that were not enough I have also been doing the usual Travel Agent job trying to sort affordable flights for friends and family coming out to sail in Kurukulla. Yesterday, whilst chatting on Skype to Bill Ellison, another ex naval friend; and only two hours after reaching the afloat berth; there was a loud bang and a splash at the stern. I offered my excuses, put Bill on hold, and went to investigate. Initially nothing seemed awry only a small moped fallen over on the jetty and then, from under the stern of my boat, I heard a lot of splashing about and a young, panic stricken, voice shouting something unintelligible in Turkish. A young lad, who had obviously climbed onto the parked moped causing it to capsize, had fallen into the harbour ending up under Kurukulla's stern. Fortunately by leaping ashore and dangling off the edge of the jetty I was able to reach one of his arms, pull him up and towards me and then grab the other one, thus it was that he was unceremoniously hauled out onto the jetty; a very soggy, frightened, but apparently none the worse for his dunking, young boy. Lucky though, if he had hit his head and been knocked unconscious he might not have lived to tell the tale.

Enough for now. More when I am under-way......

The final leg.

Symi waterfront

The transit between Symi and Bozburum was windless and as a result we motored the whole way. To break the monotony we anchored for lunch and a swim in a bay just short of the Kizil Adasi passage, only two miles short of Bozburum. Ashore was somebodies folly, a potentially beautiful house on the waterfront, that had been allowed to go to ruin. Occupied only by goats. Oh for the cash to buy it and restore it!

The folly

After a short passage, again under engine, we ultimately arrived in port at 1700 just in time to catch the harbour master before he went home. Bozburun only became a port of entry in 2010. It is by far the most convenient that I have heard of, the harbour master is also the local health authority, customs authority and is next door to the immigration police for whom he deputises. The result is that all the required four stamps on the cruising log and visas can be obtained in the same office, at a price ... the official price of the cruising log plus two visas' should amount to ~€90; the Bozburum price, “service included”, is €140. Notwithstanding this bit of profiteering it is still a good deal. The same process in Canakkale took almost a whole day and including a €30 taxi ride to the immigration authorities outside town, ultimately it cost more!

Bozburun main street

Bozburum is a small town, well remote from other centres of population. Only recently was it connected to the rest of Turkey by metalled road. It has a good selection of waterfront restaurants and a fair selection of shops plus a well protected harbour, all the ingredients of a good place to visit. We dined ashore, managed a pre return home haircut (at 10pm, how's that for service) and then retired onboard for a late evening film.

En route Marmaris

Next morning we replenished our gas, purchased a few last minute victuals and motored out of the harbour. Ten minutes later the wind came up and we set full sail and headed for Gerbekse, a small inlet two thirds of the way to Marmaris. On our arrival the wind dropped to nothing half a mile short of the entrance but interestingly inside the anchorage the wind was again quite strong, falling down the face of the mountain to the NW of us. We anchored in 4m and settled down for the evening. An hour later a large catamaran entered the inlet and for half an hour tried to squeeze himself between us and the beach; eventually he took note of my frowns from the foredeck and decided that there was not room for him to swing to his anchor without hitting us, something that had been obvious from the start! He then moved further out in the inlet, anchored near the windward shore and very close to the rocks. Next morning he had already gone before daybreak, I suspect as a result of the wind change in the middle of the night and driving him ashore. Charter skippers!

Ready to lift out

Into storage along with 1300 others!

From here we set off late the next morning, just as the tourist gullets started to arrive. Our destination was only two miles away, Kadirga Limani, an anchorage where we planned to spend the last afternoon before going into the marina at Marmaris. On arrival there were several other yachts in the anchorage but it was pleasant enough and not crowded. A final Sunday brunch, afternoon relaxing and swimming and then it was time to sail off the anchor and head for Yacht Marine marina in Marmaris.

The gentle final sail ended at 1800 as we berthed as directed by the marina staff and started the sad process of putting Kurukulla to bed for the winter. The marina is excellent, swimming pool, restaurant, bar and all the chandlers and supermarket facilities that you could ask for in a complex like this. In addition there are engineering and electronics companies on site for repairs etc. As well as putting Kurukulla to bed for the season I also took the opportunity, whilst Steve was there to do the winching, to go aloft and install the new cabling in the mast for the replacement wind instruments; a job that had been awaiting a willing volunteer and sufficient time since the start of the season.

View from the mast-head

The final act was to book the taxi to Dalaman airport, €60, and survive the Thomas Cook Airlines flight to Stansted, departing at 0150 in the morning, that was more of a challenge than anything else in the past five days!

More in April next year............................

A wave goodbye from the mast-head

The best laid plans

Skala port.

Self at castle

The new port facility at Skala in Astipalaia was funded by the EU at a cost of €3.05M and already it has been mostly destroyed by, I suspect, the locals; fishermen who do not want boats berthed in their fishing spots. Of the 12 or so power and water points installed for visiting craft only two are still functioning; that is not counting the 6 or 7 adjacent to (and used exclusively by) the local fishing boats, all of which function! The remainder no longer exist, vandalised . The harbour, although poorly finished, is well protected from the Meltemi. This is all a real shame because it is a beautiful town with lots to offer and the locals are friendly. Whilst there we climbed up to the castle, quite a hike, and enjoyed the spectacular views. The castle itself is being restored into a tourist facility with an event stage and visitors' centre.

Eventually we sailed off the jetty at Astipalaia at 1630 on Saturday 15^th to head out and find an anchorage in the islands six miles to the east; the majority of these islands are uninhabited and we chose the eastern anchorage on Nisos Kounoupia. We arrived at 1845, and after a brief search for a patch of sand to anchor on (the majority was rock), we dropped anchor at dusk. This anchorage was less peaceful than we had hoped; although the wind was in the north and the entrance faced south east a small but noticeable swell found its way in causing Kurukulla to rock and roll all night.

The coast of Tilos

Next morning dawned grey and windy. At 0800 we were glad to hoist the sails and get under-way, heading for Tilos our next planned port of call. We had a wonderful 45 mile sail across, consistently averaging over 6 knots on a beam reach, stand-fast some lighter wind for the last 8 miles. With strong north winds again forecast we made for the large bay on the south coast which would offer the best shelter. The bay was open but had a dramatic backdrop of high mountains on three sides, the Chora (town) being 1.5 km inland at the foot of the northerly mountain. At 1730 we dropped anchor and stowed the sails, it was to be their last appearance for several days.

Anchored off the beach at Tilos

For the next three days we were pinned down in the bay by strong winds from the N – NW. We managed to get ashore and walk up to the town only to find it was virtually deserted. In three hours ashore we had totalled less than 20 people sighted! The local “supermarket” was the most eclectic shop ever seen. Pasta piled high amongst the shoes, trainers and clothing, the worlds largest stock of dry biscuits and no bread! The owners were also a strange couple, he with silver curly hair, a beer in hand and no word of English, she not speaking a word unless pressed but with a fairly good command of English. This summed up the island, quiet, peaceful but probably the least welcoming that we have visited. Only an artist, trying to exhibit and sell her paintings from her summer home, volunteered to engage in conversation.

Day four dawned bright and clear, and at 1000 we hoisted the sails, sailed smartly off the anchor and set course for the island of Symi. By 1030 we had started the engine and by 1100 the wind had dropped to nothing leaving only the residual sea from the day before and even that did not last long, where was the forecast NW10-15 knots of wind? The Mediterranean strikes again! At least it was a chance to recharge the batteries. The engine had not been used since our arrival in Astipalaia. The solar panels on Kurukulla are good but do not quite meet domestic demand, especially if the computer is in frequent use; next year it could be that I will fit a wind generator as well to bridge the power gap.

Symi harbour

After six and a half windless hours motoring we arrived in the main port of Symi where we were to exit Greece for the last time. Our delay in Tilos had cost us the chance of a stay in Rhodes and besides we had been recommended to re-enter Turkey via Bozburun, where the local bureaucracy is said to be less of a pain.

Symi is a gateway to Greece for many yachts as witnessed by the numerous British registered yachts in the harbour. As an island it is pretty but suffers from the inflated prices of a tourist venue. From here we head back into Turkey and then onwards to journey's end at Marmaris. Next post from there!

The zig-zag south

As predicted the winds abated on Sunday and we were able to escape the bay at Naoussa, turn southwest and head down the coast of Anti Paros until we reached the narrow passage between Anti Paros and the tiny island of Dhespotico. Once safely through we anchored in the westerly of the two bays on the south coast of Anti Paros. A wonderful deserted sandy beach, backed by salt flats and populated by goats. Once anchored in 4 metres we rapidly deployed ashore in the dinghy and started setting up a BBQ pit and collecting wood. An hour later we enjoyed a late afternoon lunch of pork kebabs and beef patties, with an accompanying salad; all washed down with very passable Greek wine. A return onboard at sunset was followed by a viewing of “The Cruel Sea”, followed by an early night for all.

Next day dawned bright and with a moderate northerly breeze. After a morning swim we set off eastwards across the straits between Paros and Naxos (requiring a reef for a short period) to Nisos Skhinousa where a “deserted, rugged bay” as described in the pilot turned out to be the site of some very wealthy persons exceptionally smart villa with several guest villas within the grounds. Their motor yacht was moored in the bay next to us! The anchorage was none the less pleasant and well protected from the north winds. We did not disturb their haven for too long arriving in the early evening and leaving after a brief snorkel round the bay next morning.

Berthed in Katapola, Amorgos

Next destination was the anchorage between Andikaros and Dhrima, a stop for lunch. The channel between the two is passable with care; we encountered a least depth of 3.5m but it is certainly not as charted in the pilot. The NE point of Dhrima is not steep to but has a shallow patch extending 75m offshore and the deep water channel between the islands is much closer to Dhrima than charted with a very shallow sand bar extending out from the SW shore of Andikaros. Notwithstanding these errors in the pilot we anchored safely, without mishap, and passed a very pleasant two hours in the anchorage, lunching and swimming, in the company of one other boat.

On completion we sailed off the anchor and set course for Katapola on the Island of Amorgos. Katapola is the “capital” of Amorgos and is a wonderful town, unspoilt and welcoming. We berthed stern to on the town quay at the eastern end, paid our dues for water and electricity (€15) and filled in yet another crew list for the Port Police (dues of €10), the usual Greek bureaucracy. That evening we dined in the restaurant literally opposite the stern of the boat. Angelis, the proprietor, was a very welcoming host and the food was the best we have tasted since entering Greece, even the house wine was drinkable.

Ormos Negro, Ios

Group photo in the Old Chora, Ormos Livadhi, Iraklia

Wednesday morning dawned bright and clear again and after a short stroll ashore for some top up victuals we set sail for Ios. Almost no sooner were we clear of the land but the wind died away to nothing! First time for several weeks that we have been forced to motor and as a result, rather than motor for several hours, we diverted to Pigadhi in Nisos Iraklia. Pigadhi is listed in the pilot as a remote and rugged fjord. After one attempt to moor to the rocks we decided the winds, which had now decided to return, were too unpredictable and the anchorage too narrow to be safe for the night, hence we pressed on to Ios. On arrival, in the early evening, we opted to anchor in Ormos Kolitzani; just south of the main port of Ios. Next morning we set off reasonably early with the intention of finding Ormos Negro, a bay on the west coast where I had spent a night at anchor, in 2001, when sailing with the family. Negro is a beautiful inlet, protected from the north winds, three beaches and almost untouched by tourism. I say almost because since the last visit two small beach facilities, too small to be called tavernas, have been built. Nonetheless it was idyllic and remains unspoilt and almost unknown to the yachting fraternity. We had a beach BBQ, remained at anchor overnight, and then looked at our options for where to go next.

Our plan to go to Santorini and stay there for three days was wrecked by the weather forecast which showed a deep low passing through our area giving three days of “strong gusting to severe gale” southerly winds followed by a similar period of northerly gales. From my research in the pilot I concluded Santorini is not the place to be in a southerly blow, hence we returned to Nisos Iraklia and took shelter there, in Ornos Livadhi; here we remained for three days. Our choice was good, the shelter from the gales was near perfect and from here we could watch the seas crashing on the SW shore of Skhinousa to the NE of us. In this time we managed two forays ashore one to the main port of Iraklia, in the next bay to us and the other to the deserted, original, Chora (town) of the island which was abandoned after the German occupation of WWII and never reoccupied.

On passage Iraklia - Amorgos

Kalotaritissa, Amorgos

In the short lull between southerly and northerly gales we made a fast dash, in heavy seas and torrential rain, to the southern tip of Nisos Amorgos where we anchored in Kalotaritissa; this is a small bay at the southerly tip, well protected from the north. It proved to be quite tight with numerous fishing boats also moored there and hence we spent only one night sheltering here before making another dash, in foul weather, back to Ormos Katapola. This visit we anchored in a cove on the north shore of the bay and spent a very pleasant two days sheltering there. The second day was Mike's 67^th birthday and so we decided to make an attempt to moor on the town quay that night in order to allow us to get ashore easily for the festivities; it was not to be, we were the first to attempt to return to the town quay after the gales and our attempt was unsuccessful; even with all 50m of cable out the anchor was still dragging, making the berth untenable. We returned to our anchorage and resigned ourselves to a dinghy ride along the north coast of the bay to get ashore that night.

Anchored in bay on N side of Katapola

Mike's birthday

The evening was a great success. Peter and I had gone ashore the previous day and walked into town to pre book a restaurant. Our intention had been to return to Angelis but in the event we were tempted through the doors of a Mediterranean Bistro, “Karamel”, run by a French lady, Armelle. A beer and wine tasting later it was booked; four people, three courses, coffee, €100, wine included. It was excellent, the ambiance was just right and we all ended up dancing the night away until midnight, having drawn in other diners. As we were planning to sail at 0400 this was a bit of a mistake!

In the event we managed to sail off the anchor at 0500 ghosting out of the bay in the moonlight. An hour later and the wind had subsided to nothing and we then motored for six hours in the direction of Nisos Astipalaia, from where Peter and Mike were booked to fly back to UK next day. We arrived off the coast of Astipalaia at 1300 and anchored for lunch and a swim in the first tenable anchorage, next to Ak Tiliaros, on the SW tip of the island. A beautiful bay with crystal clear water and good holding if in sand (if you avoid the rocks on the bottom which are prevalent in some areas). Here we stayed for four hours before ghosting round to Skala, the main town, for the night. We arrived just after dark and hence took the easy option of berthing on the old ferry pier overnight before moving inside the new, better protected, harbour the next morning.

Birthday supper

At 1100 we waved goodbye to Mike and Peter as they set off for their flight to Athens and then on to UK. They made it but not without delays caused by Greek air traffic controllers. How striking and angering the tourists on whom you depend is going to help the Greek economy escapes me!

The port, Skala, Astipalaia

Watering and fuelling ship, a night alongside, a slow start morning and then writing this Blog, brings it up to date. We sail in a pair of hours to find an anchorage for tonight. More from Rhodes in a week's time.

Pinned down in Paros

Super Paradise beach

My first (and last) night out on the town in Mykonos was not the best preparation for a journey back to UK. It consisted of an 0400 return to the boat and a subsequent party onboard that went on until after daybreak. Fortunately the flight was not due to take off until 1410; hence, I was able to grab a couple of hours sleep before packing and heading off to the airport leaving Steve to look after the boat.

The journey back to UK went almost without hitch, but for two hours of delay in both directions; outward due to the crosswinds on the runway putting the Easyjet A319 out of limits for take-off and the return because the striking Greek air traffic controllers would not give clearance for take-off. Notwithstanding this all was well with Kurukulla when I eventually did get back and Daniel's graduation ceremony was definitely worth returning for; a great day.

Mykonos Marina on departure

With Mike Owens and Peter Van der Veken having joined in my absence we were now up to four onboard. A pair of hours after my return we moved berth to get water from the only berths connected in the part finished marina and then motored off on a windy, lumpy transit back to Super Paradise anchorage. Motoring to put some power back in the batteries; Mykonos marina does not stretch to electrical supplies!

Departing Elia

Steve, Peter, Self and Mike dining ashore in Naousa, Paros

We were to stay here for 24 hours because of the Meltemi making it too rough to be pleasant even for a passage downwind. After we motored to Paradise and then Elia just for a change of scenery and to charge the batteries again. At the start of the second day in Elia we decided to make a dash for Paros and sailed the 20 miles downwind, in 2 hours 30 mins, to Naousa; anchoring in the bay at Ormos Ay Ioannou where the shelter was good and the holding excellent. Next day we motored into Naousa Marina to replenish victuals and water, plus plug in to give the batteries a full charge. The entry and berthing were a bit hairy but all achieved without mishap. The only downside was that the berth was subject to a continual surge and the noise from the berthing warps was horrendous, enough to keep all awake all night (well almost). That evening we dined ashore and then, next morning, re-victualled, gas replenished and batteries fully charged we returned to the peace of the anchorage.

Near the anchorage is a small boatyard which the delay has given me the chance to explore; I discovered that they are offering winter storage for 50% of the price I am currently paying, guess where I might be wintering 2012 – 2013?

The anchorage at Ormos Ay Ioannou, Kurukulla in distance.

Ak Korakas, Paros and the reason we are pinned down.

So... here we are, two days later, still waiting for the wind to subside; something it is forecast to do tomorrow, Sunday. The Meltemi is supposed to be a thing of history by the end of September but it seems that this year it was almost a month late arriving and is staying a month longer than usual! Just our luck to get pinned down; but there are worse places!

Kos to Mykonos or Flat calm to force 9!

Kos chora

Kos castle at harbour entranc

The arrival process in Kos was relatively brief. We berthed on the quarantine berth on the south side of the old harbour entrance from where a helpful Port Police Officer directed me to the various offices, Immigration, Coastguard, Port Authority, Customs and finally back to Port Police and short of being relieved of €15 to re-enter the EU (or so they claim) the process was all over in 50 minutes and relatively painless. Perhaps made easier by the fact that half the officials were on strike over Greek Government cutbacks! On completion we moved into the old harbour and berthed on the extensively refurbished town quay which is now administered as part of Kos Marina.

That evening we toured the town, bought a few provisions and dined onboard. Kos town is a bit of a tourist trap and not greatly attractive.

Sunset on arrival in Archangelos

Next morning we set off at 1000 to head north. Given the light but contrary winds we decided to get as far north as we could before sunset. This resulted in us bypassing Kalymnos and Leros, neither of which seemed to have any anchorages sufficiently attractive to tempt us to delay, and arriving just after the sun had set in an anchorage at the southern tip of Nisos Archangelos, just north of Leros. The bay was an easy entry in half light as we sailed into the anchorage and proved to be delightful when revealed in the sunlight the following morning.

Entering Nisos Athagonisi

After a brief swim the next morning we again sailed off the anchor, heading to the north via the western side of Archangelos, passing between the offlying rocks and the main island. Initially we were ghosting on the wind but as the day went on we were forced to put a reef in the main and roll up part of the No 2. Given the conditions we decided to stop for lunch in Nisos Lipso, sailing onto the anchor in the eastern of the three bays at Lera Lipso. After a pair of hours we set off again to Nisos Athagonisi where we anchored initially in the eastern branch of East Bay but given the lack of swinging room and the weather forecast for the night we moved into the western arm which was potentially less sheltered but offered considerably more room for error!

From here it was intended to head for Fournoi but a contrary wind and foul, choppy sea resulted in a decision to curtail the day and head into Nisos Arki where we anchored in the eastern arm of Port Stretto. This was the least preferred according to Rod Heikell but with the western arm obstructed by moorings laid by the local taverna and the eastern arm shallower and with better holding than reported we decided we had made the best choice.

Alongside the inside of the ferry pier at Fournoi

Next day it was northwards again, this time to Nisos Fournoi. We anchored in a bay near the southern tip of the island, mentioned but not described in the pilot. It proved to be ideal with two possible anchorages both of which were vacant. We had the bay to ourselves. Next day we headed north through the narrow channel to enter Fournoi town where we berthed on the inside of the ferry quay. Within minutes the Port Police were with us; following a successful document check, very friendly and no charge for the berth. The town, if you can call it that, is very small but almost totally unspoilt. The locals were very friendly and we dined in a taverna at the back of town which offered wholesome if not “haut cuisine” food.

Wholesome food at Taverna Karlia

That night, at 2300, we set sail from Fournoi for Mykonos. Steve took the first watch after we had cleared the rocks and islands to the north of Fournoi and had a pleasant three and a half hours solo, motoring and sailing in the light winds caused by the lee of Nisos Ikaria. Just as he woke me to hand over the wind started to catch us round the western end of Ikaria and in the next four hours went from force 2 to gusting force 9! Three reefs in the main and only a quarter of the No2 genoa showing. Fortunately we were not quite on the wind and could sail a bit free. Steve managed to sleep through all but the last 30 minutes but even he woke when we were knocked flat by a gust on the south coast of Mykonos! The night passage had been planned to get Steve some night sailing experience, it proved it's worth but he missed the most exciting bits! At 0800 we anchored in 6m, in Super Paradise bay, with 50m of cable out to hold us against 40 – 45 knot winds.

Coco's Bar, Super Paradise

I have to say I was quite glad to have arrived and to get a bit of rest! We spent the next 48 hours there, swimming ashore for a beer or two in the beach cafés, (one or two was enough at €5 for a small bottle of local beer and €8 for a G&T!).

Tuesday morning we sailed round to Paradise Beach for a couple of hours snorkelling and lunch. The snorkelling was fantastic with a bigger variety of fish than I have yet seen this trip. On completion we moved the 5 miles round to the unfinished marina just north of Mykonos town and secured ourselves a berth for the next five days whilst I return to the UK for Daniel's graduation ceremony. On arrival it was obvious the marina, although unfinished, is already in a poor state of repair, another EU funded project that will never be finished because if you finish it you then have to charge for its use and repay the funding from the EU! Power supplies have rotted away without ever being connected and water pipes are in place but not connected to the main. To provide ourselves with a second holding off rope, for better security whilst I am away, I had to dive down 6m and recover a broken one from the harbour bottom.

Super Paradise! If you believe it!

There are several more down there so any complaints that we are using two will get short shrift!

Next edition once I am back from UK.