Astypalaia to Mykonos

From the anchorage south of Astypalaia town we moved into the port, now fully refurbished and being run efficiently it would seem. The dues are now collected by a representative who visits the boats on arrival and water and power is controlled and available at every berth. We chose to berth at the outer end of the mole where there is a single alongside berth. At the time we were the only yacht in the harbour! Inevitably, shortly after securing Kurukulla for the night we were asked by the Port Police to move and Med moor further along as a boat was coming in that required access to the fire hydrant, which was sighted alongside our berth. My immediate reaction was that I have heard some reasons for having to shift berth but this stretched the imagination; however, we moved as requested. Less than an hour later an Irish yacht, a member of the Royal Irish Yacht Club, pulled into the berth.

Kurukulla at Panormos, Astypalaia

It was immediately apparent that the Port Police were not joking! They had had a major fire in the fore-peak, caused by the bow thruster electrics, which had also resulted in the bow thruster battery exploding. Nasty business! The boat was a beautiful Beneteau 50 footer and, I suspect, verging on a write off.

That night Yorgos, our next crew member was due to arrive, at 0340 in the morning. I set the alarm for 0320 and retired early, intending to meet the ferry and show him where the boat was. Mistake! I wandered down to the jetty, only to discover I was the only person there, and realised that with the southerly swell, albeit moderate, the ferry was unlikely to berth in its usual place. The problem was I was unaware of any alternative on the island! With no one to ask and after waiting an hour I went back to the boat and checked my cell phone;

On the wind.

Yorgos was marooned on the north coast of the island, at a jetty with little or no civilisation nearby, and was waiting for the one and only taxi in night-time service on the island to come back for the umpteenth time to shuttle people to the main port. What organisation!

Next day we re-victualled the boat and prepared to head for Ormos Panormos on the NW corner of Astypalaia, an amazing and deserted anchorage in the most remote part of the island. It did not disappoint; there was not a dwelling to be seen anywhere and only one very small chapel.

After a night and a morning relaxing in Panormos we sailed across the northern bay to the inland sea on the NE arm of the island. Here we anchored at the far end in 5m of water and in the company of four other boats. A more popular place to be! Again this was to be for only one night as we only had two days left before Lorella, our next crew member, was due to join  and this was to happen at Amorgos.

Nisos Gramvousa, Amorgos

Our sail across to the SW tip of Amorgos was a great passage, somewhat misty but with a west wind that meant we were on a close fetch and doing over 6 kts all the way. With the wind set to stay in the west we opted for the anchorage on the SE side of the deserted island of Gramvousa, well sheltered in a west wind and stunningly beautiful. Our night was calm and the morning clear and bright.  We spent the fabulous morning exploring the island before setting off to sail into Katapola in the early afternoon. Katapola is the main port of the island, and it was here that we intended to hire a car in order to collect Lorella, again at 0200, from the secondary port of Ayios Annas;

Amazing what you find in the smallest of chapels

a port which is OK for the ferry but not protected enough for us in a forecast NW wind. After a tour of the Chora (old capital) and a trip north to research the ground for the pick up later that night, reconnaissance which included supper in a local taverna, we headed back to Kurukulla to await the 0100 departure to collect Lorella. In the event the ferry was 45 mins late but otherwise all went well.

Next morning it was victualling again (amazing how much a crew can eat!) and then we departed for Ormos Kalotiri, a good anchorage in a NW blow and one where we had sheltered last year from a SE wind (with less success!).

Ormos Kalotiri, Amorgos

This was Lorella's first experience of sailing and perhaps not the best introduction with F5 winds and lumpy seas but at least it lasted less than an hour!

Next day, the wind had abated slightly and we set off for either Skhinoussa or Koufonisia, our destination depending on the wind. In the event it was Skhinoussa that won being a somewhat bumpy but exhilarating close reach away instead of the beat to Koufonisia, Koufonisia would have to wait for the day after!

Anchorage east of Nisis Agrilos, Skhinousa

We spent a quiet night in the most southerly bay of the main island of Skhinoussa, in the shadow of someone's estate, which seemed full of workmen constructing a number of follies as well as further accommodation. Obviously there is still money in Greece, somewhere!

Next morning was flat calm and, having exhausted our patience waiting for wind, we motored across the 6 or so miles to Koufonisia where we anchored in the sandy bay on the NE end of the island. A delightful spot and a quiet place to spend the night.

We awoke to the forecast, gentle, easterly breeze and after a morning of swimming and sunning ourselves we set off for Naxos looking for shelter for the following night, it was forecast for much stronger SE winds. The first two hours of the passage were a gentle sail but in steadily increasing wind.

Dawn departure, Nisis Agrilos, Skhinousa

By the time we entered the Naxos - Paros channel the wind was astern and blowing 20+ kts over the deck, 27 kts true, time to seek out our night refuge. We chose the shallow, sandy, bay to the north of Ak Kouroupa, an anchorage with good holding but not one that is well charted. After a careful entry we anchored in 3m and following a swim around the boat to check the anchor and the surrounding bottom for obstructions, we were set for the night. The next morning dawned with 25kts blowing still from the SE but as the day went on it abated to 15kts or so. With this respite we decided to make the passage to Naoussa, on the northern end of Paros, and enjoyed a very pleasant sail downwind to the entrance followed by a short beat to windward in order to enter the bay and

Anchorage N of Ak Kouroupa, Naxos

come to anchor in Ormos Ay Ioannou, in the NW corner of the bay.

Our reason for visiting Naoussa was to make use of the two very good supermarkets on the outskirts of town, plus the wide variety of other shops available. The following morning, a Sunday, we moved into the marina expecting to be greeted by the manager, exactly as Kurukulla had been the previous year. Not a bit of it. The management has been withdrawn, the power and water isolated and the majority of holding off lines vandalised. The only improvement was that it is now a free facility! Not quite what the EU had in mind when they invested some €2.3M in its construction. That night we had supper in the Mediterranean taverna, (same as last year), which was excellent and followed that with a nightcap onboard.

Monday dawned bright and less breezy as we set off on a major victualling trip assisted by Yorgos borrowing his sister's car (He is a resident of Paros). After supermarket, bakery, ironmongers (for gas) and several other stops we were fully provisioned.

Naoussa Marina

The afternoon was spent touring the island in Yorgos's car and at 1800 we finally departed the marina for Langeri Beach, on the east side of the bay, where we anchored for a late evening swim and an easy departure the next day. From here we said goodbye to Yorgos, who had to return home to assist on the family farm.

From Langeri the remaining three of us set sail next day for Mykonos. Our plan was to go into Mykonos Marina and drop off Lorella well in time for her flight home the following morning. The best laid plans. On arrival in the marina, in a brisk southerly wind, we were waived off and informed there were no free berths at all! It was evident that the refurbishment by the new management, which had been started last year, had paid dividends! There were power points, water was available and the marina was full. Last year no power, intermittent water and half empty! What a change. The alternative was to go to the anchorage south of Mykonos Town in Ormos Korfos. A good anchorage in southerlies and already occupied by seven or eight other yachts. Here we spent a quiet night at anchor and then dropped Lorella off in the Old Port at 0800 for her to get a taxi from there to the airport. Normally yachts are not now allowed to enter the Old Port and I was quite expecting to get shouted at by the Port Police or some of the tourist boat boatmen, as it was I think the early hour caught the majority of them asleep; we got away with it.  And then there were two!

Departing Rhinia

Christoph and I decided that in the southerly winds it was pointless going back to the same anchorage, (the wind was due to go westerly anyway), and so we decided to head for Rhinia. In the northern bay we settled to the anchor an hour later and enjoyed a day of total quiet and solitude. The following morning, after a late start, we sailed round to Elia Beach on Mykonos in preparation for the northerly winds forecast later in the day. We enjoyed a brisk sail past Delos and along the south coast of Mykonos and by 1130 we were anchored off the beach where the film “Shirley Valentine” was shot many years back. Here we stayed for the next 24 hours, tied back to the rocks, close in to the beach.

Kurukulla anchored off "Shirley Valentine" beach

The night was calm and peaceful such that we were even able to keep the line ashore to hold us bow on to any slight swell coming in from the south. Next morning it was an early morning swim to let the line go and a sail back along the coast and a return to the marina to pick up Malcolm, the next crew member. At this hour the early leavers had gone and there was plenty of space for us to go stern to on one of the jetties. Our plan was to stay for about an hour and then head south to make best use of the north-westerly breeze. With Malcolm plus water and victuals embarked (never miss an opportunity for either) we set off for Paros and beyond.

More when we are further down the track ….......

Good-bye Marmaris, Marseilles here we come.

After a late afternoon flight back to Turkey, from London Gatwick, it was a taxi transfer to Yacht Marine and a late night “spot the boat” challenge. Unlike last year Kurukulla was in exactly the same place I had left her 6 months before. A swift scale of the ladder and I was back onboard and 15 minutes later, asleep!

En route to launch

The next morning I awoke to bright sunshine and the noise of some TMS staff knocking on the hull, they were wanting to come aboard and complete some of the work they had been undertaking in my absence; the primary items of which were re-insulating the fridge cabinet and undertaking an extensive refurbishment of the hull above waterline. In addition the Mainsail had gone off to North sails for a full winter service and replacement of the luff rope.

The best surprise of the year was the clean condition of the interior of the boat. Having had the galley virtually dismantled, to get the fridge cabinet out, I was anticipating a similar situation of dirt and chaos as occurred in previous years, with other work. The interior was verging on pristine! Www.tms-marineservice.com .

Why I will miss Yacht Marine, Marmaris

A very pleasant surprise and indicative of a change in the working practices at TMS. In addition, all of the work that could be completed before she went in the water had been completed. Such a change to the two previous years when, at this stage, extensive work had yet to be started! The new management at TMS have certainly made changes and I can now recommend them again with a clear conscience, 12 months back I was considering taking my business elsewhere! The new owner, Emre, and his office team of Alex and Mustafa have certainly improved the performance of the company dramatically.

The new look stern with logo, Goddess Kurukulla

The other great success of the winter was the new name graphic for the stern, produced by David Mills of Evolve Creative ( david@evolve-cd.co.uk ), an excellent piece of artwork that has transformed her appearance and replaces the rather tired earlier version.

After four days onshore it was time to put her back in the water, recommission the systems, rectify a few electrical defects (including the engine start circuit!) and get under way for this years programme. Christoph joined the day after launch and helped with the final preparations and by 2 May we were set to go. €80 to the local agent to organise our departure from Turkey (it still grieves me that the system effectively prevents you from doing this simple task yourself – a money creation scheme!) a trip to the ferry port to clear immigration and customs on the way out and that was it.

Our escort on departure from Marmaris

The last visit to Marmaris for the foreseeable future. Next stop Rhodes.

This was the third attempt to get to Rhodes; on two previous occasions I had abandoned the attempt due to excess of, or absence of, wind. Third time lucky! We entered Rhodes old port and berthed in the yacht moorings on the inner face of the outer mole at the inner end of the old harbour. Here we were greeted by an efficient representative of “Rhodes Marina” (the new marina intended to provide much greater capacity now lies in virtual ruins and has remained incomplete and unopened for years, only the old harbour functions. A massive waste of money!).

Rhodes Old Town

Rhodes is a welcoming port in the off-season but overcrowded in mid summer. That said it is well worth a visit for the joys of walking through the old town, notwithstanding that it is full of tourist shops, selling tat, and tourists who seem more interested in the tat than the 1000 years of history that surrounds them.

Rhodes Harbour, outer mole

After 48 hours in Rhodes we set sail for Lindos, the original capital of Rhodes before the city of Rhodes was built. Lindos old village is pleasant enough and the bay offers a good anchorage (even if we did snag a rock with the anchor cable which took 30 minutes to unravel as we departed). Lindos is subject to the ebb and flow of tourists with the day trip boats that come and go most of the day. The saddest part is the “restoration” of the Byzantine castle and the “acropolis” within, which is steadily being turned into a modern replica, worthy of a Disney theme park.

Two days here and we were off again but this time it was to a rather more remote part of Rhodes, we thought!

Lindos anchorage

Our plan was to anchor at the very southernmost tip of the island where there are two bays on either side of a north/south sand spit configured such that a suitable anchorage is highly likely to be found in most wind conditions. Quiet my foot! As we approached we were greeted by the biggest fleet of kite surfers and wind surfers I have ever seen in one place, short of a major competition. Over 30 of each on the water at one time! We wended our way through the crowd and anchored in 4m of water on the east side of the spit for an ultimately very quiet and pleasant night.

Lindos Castle, Acropolis (reconstructed)

We awoke next morning to flat, oily calm. No windsurfing this morning... Our aim was to make passage up the west coast of Rhodes to the island of Alimia, a beautiful anchorage with an abandoned settlement behind. I had been here before two years back but was keen to return again whilst en route north. After an hour of motoring the wind filled in and we were able to sail the rest of the way, finally coming to anchor in the small bay adjacent ot one of the two settlement churches. Shortly after we arrived two charter boats, who were in the same bay, departed and we had the place to ourselves.

The anchorage at Alimia

Following a night at anchor in a flat calm we set off on a brief ramble ashore to look at the ruins of the settlement and the two churches. The last time I was here we were shocked to find an oil lamp still burning in one of the churches, this time we discovered it had been replaced by an LED version! After this diversion we were off again heading for Tilos, a quiet but enchanting island some 18 miles NW. Here we were again greeted by a very helpful and welcoming harbour official who informed us berthing and power were free, the only charge was for water, if we required it (we didn't). We berthed alongside, for a change, on the inside of the outer wall.

Waterfront at Lindos

The pilot warned of shallows adjacent to the inner side of the harbour, such that going bows to
was advised. Since this was written the harbour has been improved and there is now ample water for going stern to on the inner wall as well, as the attached photographs show. A bit of victualling and an enjoyable meal in the Gorgona taverna (to be recommended) and it was an early night in preparation for an 0600 start for Astypalaia.

Next day dawned bright and with a NW wind blowing at 10 - 15 knots. Just as forecast. We motored out and decided to use the engine until we reached the northern tip of the island rather than sail in a light-ish headwind and choppy seas. Once clear of the northern tip of Tilos we set full sail and set Kurukulla up on starboard tack for the fetch to Astypalaia. That was the theory! The wind spent an hour trying to decide whether to blow at 10 kts, 30 kts or not at all.

Lindos harbour

After an hour of trying our patience it finally settled for 25 kts from the NW, we put in a reef in the main and 5 rolls in the genoa and from here on we averaged 6 kts plus all the way to Astypalaia. We only needed a few tacks, towards the end of the trip, to enter the bay on the southern side of the island and finally bring us to rest in Ormos Livadhi, to the south of the port of Scala Astypalaia, and in the shadow of the castle. Here we sailed onto the anchor ready for a quiet night in the company of one other, French owned, yacht. That was until an idiot in a German flagged yacht motored in and spent 20 mins trying to anchor upwind of both of us. What is wrong with these people? They either have blind faith their anchors will never drag or just don't care! 25M upwind in 25kts is not enough clearance especially when the boat behind you has 35m of cable out and you are swinging over his anchor! He got the message!

View of Astypalaia Castle and Chora from the anchorage

Wednesday dawned bright but very slightly overcast but we were not concerned. It was a day for relaxing and doing a bit more maintenance whilst we awaited the arrival of the next crew member, Yiorgos, on the Thursday night ferry; after which we head north for a bit.

More when we leave Astypalaia …....

Mykonos to Marmaris

Mykonos to Astypalaia

From Mykonos we headed southward through the Paros / Naxos channel assisted by a northerly wind which subsided the further south we progressed. As a result of the diminishing wind we decided to anchor for the night in the small bay at the western end of Ornos Kouroupa. This bay is on the SW coast of Naxos, in the shadow of someone's failed dream; an enormous, half built, hotel development collapsing due to advanced concrete cancer. The bay is small but beautiful with a golden sandy beach and only one occupied villa. There are some small boat moorings in the west of the bay but still plenty of room nearby to anchor on perfect sand; good holding.

Anchored in Ormos Kouroupa, Naxos

The following morning we awoke to a forecast of strong southerly winds, due within 24 hours. As a consequence we decided to make a run for Amorgos and anchor in the bay between the main island and Nisos Nikouria; a smaller island close off the north west coast where protection from the southerlies would be found. A lunchtime stop in Ornos Livadhi on Nisos Iraklia, allowed us time to climb the hill between the beach and the deserted chora (capital of the island), abandoned after WWII when the population decided not to return. By 1500 it was time to depart and by this stage in the day the clouds were gathering and rain threatening. We managed to reach the narrow channel between Nisos Dhrima and Nisos Andikaros, and to make the passage between the islands, before the rain hit us. From here on, for the next two hours, it was dodging the rain clouds; not always effectively and we were forced into donning full foul weather gear for the first time this autumn!

View from the old Chora, Ornos Livadhi, Iraklia

By 1930, just after the sun had set, we were entering our chosen anchorage at Ornos Kalotiri where we initially we anchored on the north western side, off the coast of Nisos Nikouria; however, by 2200 the wind was of such force that the anchor started dragging and we decided to move to the south eastern side of the anchorage, on main island shore, and anchor off the beach at Ay Pavios; an interesting manoeuvre, in total darkness and onto a beach where I had not anchored before. To make matters more complicated we also found ourselves doing a ballet with another yacht trying to anchor in the same place.

Sunset at Ornos Kalotiri, Amorgos

At the fourth attempt, anchoring very close to the beach and in less than 5m depth, we managed to find a patch of good sand and get the anchor to hold. Just as well, we were to stay here for 36 hours, with the wind whistling overhead, before the gods would allow us to depart. Eventually, on the second morning, the wind had abated sufficiently for us to brave the elements and head into the bay at Katapola, the island capital, and berth stern to on the town jetty. Here we were greeted with a free bottle (well 25cl bottle) of local liqueur from the “local produce” tourist shop and the offer of water and power for the duration of our stay. All very efficient and welcoming.

Katapola, Amorgos

Our plan was to have lunch on the waterfront and then catch the bus to the famous and spectacular monastery on the south coast. Initially we took ourselves off on a walk into the hills behind Katapola ending up descending directly into the town and just in time for lunch. After a cheap and cheerful “gyros” (Kebab) we set off to the bus stop. After a 20 minute wait for a bus that didn't come we telephoned the bus company only to find out that the buses stopped at the end of September, there was no service! Not to be beaten we hired a car for €20 and headed off on a tour of the island. In our research we had also discovered that the monastery was only open in the afternoons from 1700 to 1900, hence we decided to go on a very enjoyable tour,

Windmills above the Chora, Amorgos

including the chora and the south of the island, before returning to the monastery for a visit; spectacular does not describe it. The monastery clings to the cliffs, hundreds of metres up, under a perilous overhang and is home to just three monks. For the visit we had to don long trousers and long sleeved shirts but it was worth it. Small though it is, it is unique and quite amazing.

Monastery of Hozoviotissa, Amorgos

At the end of our tour we were invited to take a seat around a rectangular table which was in a small side room and a few minutes later one of the monks appeared with six glasses, three full of water and the other three containing a generous measure of the liqueur that they produce in the monastery; so very welcoming. I am not sure whether we were give special treatment due to Yorgos being a native Greek or whether all visitors are treated so generously. Whichever it was much enjoyed.
From here we retired to the Chora for a delicious meal in a very local taverna and, after returning the hire car, adjourned back to Kurukulla for the night. The next morning, after getting fresh bread and a few other victuals, we set off for Santorini. The promised northerly wind was blowing a steady 15 knots and we made excellent progress passing through between Amorgos and it off-lying islands at its SW tip and then … ; yes you have guessed, after the first two hours the wind started to lighten and we found ourselves going dead downwind in light airs!

Ormos Tris Klises, Ios

Rather than drift downwind at 2 – 3 knots we decided to turn onto a beam reach and head for the southern end of Ios, towards which we could make considerably better speed; thus it was we settled on Ormos Tris Klises on the SE corner of Ios as our overnight anchorage. On arrival we found three fishing boats anchored in the bay but within two hours they had departed for their nights work and we had the bay to ourselves. A delightful anchorage with good holding on sand.

Next morning we sailed off the anchor, out of the bay and again headed south to Santorini; this time it was to be a downwind sail but with enough wind to keep us making good progress all the way. In fact by 1400 we were on a buoy, inside the lagoon at Santorini, having been fortunate enough to find a vacant private mooring off the shoreline of the smaller island of Thirasia.

Finikia on Santorini

We were later informed that these two moorings are owned by the “Trips round the bay” sailing catamarans and are only used between mid day and 1800. Outside these times they are happy for them to be used by other vessels. We decided to stay on the mooring overnight and then to adjourn to the marina at Vlikadha, on the south coast, in order to leave Kurukulla in a place of safety whilst we visited Skala Thira, the main town of Santorini. The marina is an interesting place, it is now re-designated a “fishing haven” and used as an overnight berth by all the “trip round the bay” catamarans and a selection of fishing boats; however, because there is such poor utilisation of space and no pontoons, there is very little room available to visiting yachts.

The channel between Palaia Kammeni (L) & Nea Kammeni (R)

Although built as a marina for visiting craft it has been claimed as home territory by the large, unwieldy, catamarans and they are not particularly helpful when it comes to making space available. Access is also not helped by the fact that the harbour is very shallow, ranging from 3m max to less than 2m in places.

Vlikadha Marina (Fishing Refuge)

Much care is needed not to go aground.That said we managed to get into a tight but sheltered berth at the inner end of the outer harbour. Not too bad and with berthing, water and power available for a minimal charge we could not complain! We made our dash for town early the next morning, catching the 0700 bus which was due to arrive at Skala at 0730 according to the timetable. In fact, after taking us on a magical mystery tour of the southern part of the island, we finally arrived in Thira at 0815; Yorgos explained that the timetable was irrelevant as the bus was used to pick up all the school children from the outlying areas and due to this detour it was much later arriving on school days; the timetable gave no hint of this!

Sunset at Anafi

After coffee and a walk along the cliff tops we adjourned to a local supermarket to get all our victuals for the coming days and then took a taxi back to the boat, much easier... Buy 1130 we were under-way, under full sail and heading for the small island of Anafi where we planned to anchor for the night. Anafi has a very small population but some stunning beaches along the south coast. After a short reconnaissance we settled on an anchorage just off the longest beach on the south coast; it was totally open to the south but with north winds blowing, and forecast to continue, anchoring here was not a problem.

Yorgos doing acrobatics....

We were securely anchored an hour before sunset, passed a very pleasant night here and were away by 1030 the next day enjoying an exhilarating reach to Astipalaia. Once clear of the lee of Anafi were forced to take in a reef but even so we were averaging over 7 kts for the first two hours and eventually covered the 33 miles in 5 hours.

I have been to Astipalaia a few times before and so it was a real pleasure to return to this picturesque and unspoilt island. Our time here was to be limited and so we opted for the anchorage to the west of the main town of Scala for the first night, moving into the port early the next morning to visit the town and the castle.

Scala, Asti Palaia

The castle has been extensively restored but still carries considerable charm. After a short shopping trip and an excellent lunch ashore, in a taverna right on the northern end of the harbour beach, we set off for a brief passage across to the anchorage at Ag Ioannis which we anticipated might be deserted; this was not to be; we arrived to find two other yachts anchored in the inlet but there was still enough room for us. The only problem with this anchorage is that the bottom is mostly hard sand and it is not easy to get the anchor to penetrate, It took us three attempts but eventually we were satisfied that we were secure for the night. After a brief wander ashore around the deserted buildings (once a farm) we settled for the night and prepared for a relatively early start in the morning.

AstyPalaia to Mykonos

Our next destination was the volcanic island of Nisiros.

We set off on the 35 mile passage to Nisiros at 0600 in reasonably brisk northerly winds and were earlier than anticipated reaching the islands. As a consequence we decided to anchor in the bay on the eastern side of Pergoussa, a small island 3 miles short of Nisiros, and enjoy a leisurely lunch. The leisurely lunch led into a relaxing and windless afternoon and that turned into a night at anchor in the bay!

Inside the crater of the vulcano, Nisiros

Next morning there was just enough wind to sail off the anchor but within half an hour that had subsided to nothing. “Hoist the iron foresail!”. We motored for the next 45 minutes towards Pali, the best yacht harbour in Nisiros. Just as we approached the wind started to get up but too late, we had resigned ourselves to motoring in and berthed on the southern side of the harbour in front of the tavernas. Our main aim was to go and see the crater of the still (just) active volcano but unbeknown to us the bus service does not run this late in the year! Only one thing for it …. a hire car. Ten minutes later and €30 poorer we set off on a tour of the island. In fact hiring the car was the best decision that we made as it allowed us to tour all the easily passable roads on the island (for the rest you need 4WD).

Looking down on the crater of the vulcano, Nisiros

The crater is impressive but so are some of the other sights on the island, deserted villages and great views. We ended the evening with a visit to Mandraki, the capital of the island, and then returned the hire car before retiring for the night.

The forecast for the next day was for thunderstorms with mostly northerly winds, gusts in the thunderstorms but nothing excessive. They were wrong!

Pali harbour, Nisiros at dusk

For the first half of the passage to Symi the winds were westerly and relatively light; we steered courses to avoid the worst of the dark clouds lingering over Turkey but eventually our luck in avoiding these ran out. For the next 45 minutes were hurtled blind into torrential rain, so strong that you could only just make out the bow from the wheel and 45 to 50 knot winds; fortunately for us these were on the beam as we headed east. We had taken the precaution of double reefing and rolling five rolls in the genoa before it hit but it was still fairly hairy! I sent the two crew down below and stayed at the wheel sheltering my eyes with my hand so that I could see the compass and glancing occasionally in the direction of the bow but unable to see anything. When in Symi harbour, two days later, we were shown video film of the devastation caused by the same storm as it passed over Symi; the main street leading down into the town was like a river with cars being washed into the harbour. Devastating! After weathering the storm we headed for the anchorage at Panormos for the night.

The monastery at Panormitis, Symi

Storms were still circulating and this seemed the best sheltered anchorage available. Despite a thunder and lightning show, going on for most of the night, the winds remained moderate and we passed a settled night at anchor. Next morning we moved alongside the jetty, in front of the monastery, and made a quick tour of the same before motoring out of the anchorage and setting sail for the town of Symi. We chose to go west-about and after anchoring for lunch we sailed eastwards through the narrow gap between Nisos Nimos and Nisos Symi. As luck would have it the beam reach we enjoyed as we entered the gap turned into a beat to windward to escape the far end. Seven tacks later we were through, good practice for the crew but slightly nerve racking for the skipper, the channel is little more than three boats lengths wide at its narrowest so a passage upwind through the gap is not simple.

Stern to at Symi

Three quarters of an hour later we were moored on the north side of Symi harbour, between a large power boat and a Turkish gullet. It was possibly the most sheltered spot in the harbour and this was lucky for us as there was quite a nasty send running up and down the harbour. Fortunately it moderated as the night progressed. Next morning it was time to do battle with the authorities again, this time to leave Greece. After visits to Port police, Immigration Police, Customs and finally Port police again we were free to leave. Now was time to say goodbye to Yorgos, our Greek crew member, who was returning home by ferry to Paros (via Pireaus – there is no direct ferry to Paros or it adjacent islands) and for Christoph and I to sail across to Bozburun and do battle with the Turkish authorities to enter Turkey.

Departing Symi heading for Bozburun

After a night anchored outside the harbour we entered Bozburun next morning, engaged an agent and let him get on with it. Turkish Cruising Permits are almost exclusively available through agents hence they have a virtual monopoly on the process of entry and charge between €75 and €100 for the privilege. By 1130 we were free to go and set off in a brisk SW breeze to beat out of the bay at Bozburun, out into the Rhodes Straits and head NE towards Marmaris with the intention of anchoring in one of the bays en route for the night, depending on progress. By 1530 we had decided to head into Gerbekse for the night as the wind was very light and we were only making 1 – 2 knots. Start the engine …. nothing … not even a whisper. It was either the starter motor or an electrical fault. Given that the starter motor is in the most inaccessible place possible and fault finding on the electrics in the failing light was going to be a nightmare I opted to keep sailing and head direct to Marmaris. Suffice to say we arrived 10 hours later having covered the final 12 miles at an average speed of 1.2kts. There was no wind and just to make life more interesting, at 0100, just as we were entering the narrowest part of the channel heading into the bay of Marmaris, a Thompson cruise ship decided to depart the bay. It all adds to the fun...

The lift out, 2015

A t 0330, after anchoring just to the east of Marmaris Yacht Marina, we turned in for what was left of the night. Next morning I turned to with a multi meter and discovered that the wire from ignition switch to starter relay was broken somewhere in the “new” wiring loom of the engine fitted last year! A quick temporary bypass of this wire and we had a running engine again. We ran it for just long enough to get us alongside in the ship lift berth and to warm up the engine enough for its end of season oil change.

That was the end of the 2015 season; all that remained now was to pack away all the sails and sailing gear, deep clean her, put on Kurukulla's winter cover and then head home to UK. This will be Kurukulla's last winter in Turkey. Next year the plan is to head west and winter in France.

More in 2016...............

Porto Rafti to Mykonos

Porto Rafti to Mykonos

With Ale, Ray and Dimitri safely embarked and a major re-victualling exercise completed at Carrefour we moved and spent the night in the anchorage to the south of the promontory in Porto Rafti bay; the move was in order to avoid a rather uncomfortable swell that had built up from the NE during the day. The following morning we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast and then got under-way to Ornos Kavia in Kea. The original plan had been to stay further north and head for Ormos Kastri on the SE corner of Evia, as a precaution against the onset of the Meltemi, this was abandoned due to the brisk ENE wind that we were faced with. The choice was a 20 odd mile beat to windward in 20kts or a beam reach to Kea. No contest, Kea here we come.

Departing Ormos Kavia, Kea

Three hours and 22 miles later we were safely anchored in Ornos Kavia, enjoying a late lunch and the sunshine. Ornos Kavia is a popular beach with some very tasteful developments interspersed with numerous windmills. They are even in the process of demolishing some of the redundant concrete structures left over from the failed building boom. The anchorage was indeed so good that we decided to stay an extra 24 hours and avoid a bout of strong northerly wind forecast to be passing through next day!

After our extended sojourn in Kea we sailed off the anchor in the early morning of Thursday, round the southern tip of Kea, and headed for Ornos Kolona in Kithnos;

Ornos Kolona, Kithnos

chosen because of the hot springs on the beach in the northern bay. The initially the intention was to make this a lunch stop but so taken were the team with the bay that we decided to stay overnight and set off early next day for Siros. The net result was an evening spent toasting the sunset, with G&T, on the top of the hill behind the bay. This venue has great views and is amongst a collection of enormous cairns (goodness knows who built them); all of this was followed by a late evening soak in the hot spring.

By 0830 next morning we were motoring out of the bay in a flat calm, hoping to find wind as we rounded the northern tip of Kithnos; it was not to be! The wind wistfully came and went throughout the morning but was never strong enough to shut down the engine for more than 15 minutes at a time.

Sunset at Ornos Delfino, Siros

By 1430 we were anchored in Ornos Delfino, on Siros, and swimming ashore for a drink and ice-cream from the beach taverna. Later that afternoon the team walked the 1.5 km to Kini, the next, more populated, bay to the south where they were able to procure some provisions. In anticipation of a spectacular sunset we all collected at 1930 on Kurukulla's foredeck, G&T in hand; we were not disappointed: it was the most spectacular sunset I have seen for many years. The sky was an amazing flame red! Well worth waiting for.

By close of play next day, Saturday, we had to be in Mykonos for Dimitri's departure on the following morning. As a consequence it was yet another early start but not wasted. We motored to the northern tip of Siros and then set full sail for a brisk reach under No2 Genoa and full main (later reefed) to the north of Rhinia and then round onto the south coast of Mykonos heading for my favourite anchorage at Elia Beach.

The "Shirley Valentine" beach at Elia

This was the best sail of the season so far touching 9.5kts at stages and averaging over 8. By 1500 we were anchored off the beach and having lunch prior to swimming ashore. It was with regret that at 1730 we had to leave the anchorage and head for Mykonos Marina to allow Dimitri to catch his ferry next day.

After a wet and windy motor to windward up the west side of Mykonos we finally berthed in the marina at just after sunset. The good news is that some investment has been made in the marina and power/water terminals have now been installed. There are still no holding off ropes though although I am told by Nikos (the Marina “Manager”) that further work is planned this coming winter! After a hot shower at the cafe opposite the marina (€5 per head) it was off into Mykonos town for a splendid dinner at “Funky Kitchen” and to renew acquaintances with the Piano Bar, Porta Porta and several other bars.

Ormos Langeri in the bay at Naousa, Paros

Sunday morning was not a great experience, all were suffering from a moderate hangover, but after a large and leisurely breakfast at Matthews Taverna we said goodbye to Dimitri who headed for his ferry and the rest of us prepared to head back to Elia in the mid afternoon. Here anchored off Elia Beach Kurukulla was destined to stay for six days due to strong northerly winds. The Meltemi had definitely set in! As a consequence we arranged for the water sports boat from Agrari Beach to collect Ray and Ale and transfer them ashore in time for them to catch a taxi to the airport on Wednesday morning. It was orders of magnitude easier than flogging back round to Mykonos Marina in the conditions prevailing. I was now single handed again for the first time in several weeks.

What a forecast!

Having sheltered from the Meltemi in Elia bay for four days the forecast at last changed and offered a chance to head south before the forecast southerly winds set in. Naousa in Paros was the ideal destination given that it provided good shelter from southerly winds and the forecast was somewhat extreme, see the adjacent screen shot, northerly winds gusting to 106mph! This had to be an error but how much of an error was the question! All other indicators were for winds from the southern sector of light to moderate strength. The passage to Paros was tedious, I had delayed too long and the southerlies had already set in by the time I left Elia, mid morning Sunday. It was to be a motor in light, contrary, winds all the way. The only advantage was the new batteries got their first full charge for several weeks!

Sunset at Ormos Langeri, Paros

Once in the bay at Naousa I headed for the eastern side of the bay where there is a sheltered anchorage for the forecast southerly winds. It is a beautiful sandy beach with the added advantage of being one of the clothes optional beaches in Paros! After 36 hours anchored here I moved across to the town and took the last vacant place in the marina; it was well inside and therefore sheltered but a challenge to get in to at any time, let alone single handed. Fortunately all went well; the marina “manager”, having realised I was alone onboard came to take my lines and offer up the “holding off” line which was available. The marina is now a private marina and charges €30 a day for Kurukulla (12m), last year it was free and the year before it was being run by the municipality so something is changing, as with Mykonos.

Anchored at Rinia, Northern bay

With full tanks of fuel and water, fully victualled and the bar restocked, and the new crew of Simon and Yorgos onboard we sailed back to the anchorage for a final night and a relatively early departure back north, saling downwind initially to Rhinia North bay via the Delos Channel and then, two nights later, to Mykonos to collect Jason another crew member flying out from UK. After one night off Mykonos; during which we got up at 0400 to see the eclipse of the moon (only to discover it was 100% cloud cover) we set off on a fast sail, using the Meltemi, down to Ormos Dhendro in Dhenoussa for a night in the bay there; we were expecting to be the only boat there. To our surprise there were four boats anchored in the bay already. Fortunately they had left us a space near the beach and we sailed through the anchored boats, onto the anchor, just as the sun was setting. This was followed next day by a morning swimming and lunch ashore in the taverna before departure.

Lunch in the beach taverna, Ornos Dhendro, Dhenoussa

After lunch it was a sail off the anchor and a very fast and bumpy reach across to the south coast of Naxos where we put in for the night in Ornos Panormou, a beautiful and quiet cove on the SE corner of of the island. Panormou is an anchorage which is well protected from the Meltemi; however, the wind still howled overhead most of the night.

The following day we decided to see what our options were for making ground north after rounding Ak Giatani, the southerly tip of Naxos. As we approached on a relatively gentle beam reach it was obvious that a significant challenge awaited us if we wanted to go to windward! We opted for the less demanding option of reaching across to the south coast of Paros and even this was a challenging ride, especially for Yorgos who had not been out in such conditions before.

Entering Ornos Panormou, Naxos S coast

We initially put into Aliki which is a relatively wide, sandy bottom, bay on the south west of Paros, sited at the end of Paros airport runway! After three hours of gale force gusts we decided to retrace our steps by 2 miles and return to Ornos Faranga which is a smaller but better sheltered option. Here we landed Yorgos to return to his home on the island and spent the night hoping that the wind might abate by the morning, as forecast. Our hopes were raised by the anchor alarm going off three times during the night as light winds pushed us north towards the beach (we had set it to be sure that we did not swing too close to the beach; expecting the north wind to hold us off the beach all night. We were wrong!).

Notwithstanding the variable winds of the night, when we awoke, as a result of the alarm clock going off at 0600, the winds looked light if not favourable. It was not to be, by 0630 we were motoring across the Paros – Andiparos gap with 30kt winds from the north. By the time we rounded the island of Dhespotico, the first point at which we could turn north towards Paros (Parikia) town the winds were 35kts gusting 40kts and the seas up to 4m high.It was an extremely lumpy, uncomfortable, passage and I am ashamed to say I decided we should motor all the way; we probably stayed drier and warmer this way, but it did nothing for my sailing pride! The batteries were grateful for the charge is all I can say in my defence! We arrived at 1430, anchored for a swim in the outer bay of the inlet, and settled to a lunch of hot, home-made, soup; not quite the normal diet when sailing in the Mediterranean but very gratefully received.

At 1800, after researching the non availability of a berth in the “marina” at Paros (it was crowded and already in two layers out from the jetty), we decided the better option was a night at anchor in the bay. Next morning it was time for Jason and Simon to make their escape; Jason back to UK via a ferry to Mykonos and flight from there; Simon by ferry back to his home in Athens. I accompanied them ashore with the dinghy, for a crew breakfast, we said our goodbyes and I set off for the local Carrefour to re-victual; I was potentially back to single handing again for a while!

Anchored in Rhinia, South Bay

In the event I delayed two days in the anchorage at Paros, to allow the wind and seas to subside, before heading back north to Rhinia and then Mykonos again to collect Christoph, the last joining crew of the season. 24 hours into this pause I had an SMS request from Yorgos telling me he had cancelled a planned trip to Bologna (Italy) and asking if he might join again for the last of the passage until we departed Greece; single handing was not to be!

From Paros we headed northwards, on the wind, to South Bay in Rhinia for one night at anchor. On arrival we found both arms of the bay occupied and chose to head into the eastern arm which seemed to offer more shelter. We ghosted past the anchored charter yacht (with German crew) and dropped anchor in the narrow entrance to the bay 60m ahead of them. Plenty of room to swing but they were unimpressed that we had squeezed in between them and the shallows of the bay itself. We received a hard stare for our trouble but following an uneventful night they were sociable enough as we left next day. That afternoon we sailed off the anchor, out of South Bay, and tacked up through the narrow Delos Channel (I never could resist a challenge!) followed by a close fetch across to Ormos Tourlos where we anchored in the bay just north of the Mykonos New Port. Next morning, after a leisurely start we headed to the southern end of the New Port and berthed in the marina for the last time this year. An hour later we had hired a car and were heading to airport to collect Christoph, visit the best supermarket on the island, and have lunch in Ano Mera which is the second largest town on the island. That night we visited the favourite spots in town and then, nursing our hangovers, set off next morning for a passage taking us south and then east, heading slowly back to our winter quarters in Marmaris.

More as we return to Turkish waters............