Milos to Kalamata

In the event we spent several days in and around Milos. After embarking Yorgos, re-victualling and replenishing our gas supplies (they now hold gas stocks in the Port Authority office on the jetty) we were ready to set off again and departed for Poliagos and the anchorage at Manolonisi. On arrival we sailed in, dropped anchor in the bay, on sand, in 4m of water, and immediately swam over the anchor to check it's security.

Bay south of Manolonisi, Poliagos

Although the bay is sheltered from seas from the north it is still somewhat open to the northerly winds. Twenty four hours here, including a hike up to visit the abandoned buildings at the edge of some of the old mine workings, and we were ready for a change of scenery; not only that but the winds were getting stronger and we therefore decided to move into the next bay to the south which offered better shelter. Here we passed another 24 hours before moving on to the south coast of Milos for three nights at anchor in three different bays. There are plenty to choose from in this area! The final bay was Kleftiko, a famous landmark of Milos, where we spent a fantastic night anchored in amongst the spectacular cliffs and caves which we explored from the dinghy both in the late evening and after dawn.

Ormos Kleftico, SW Milos

We stayed here until the arrival of the first “grockle boat” of the day and then sailed off the anchor and set off for a lunchtime anchorage on the west coast of Milos. We found a delightful bay which was protected from the building SW winds and spent the best part of the afternoon swimming, walking and sunning before sailing off again to seek shelter in the crater from the strong SW winds that were forecast for that night and the following day. By 1900 we had sailed onto the anchor in Ormos Rivari and were settling down to a pasta supper.

The next day was spent monitoring our position, as the winds howled through our rigging, and watching the antics of others who were not as fortunate and whose anchors were dragging in the gusty conditions.

West coast of Milos

As the day progressed we were joined by more and more boats who had deserted the jetty at Adhamas and sought refuge in the same anchorage.

At 0700 the next morning there was a lull and so we leapt into action, motored across the bay and managed to occupy one of only two free berths on the inner side of the yacht pontoon. The morning was relatively quiet, stand-fast one berthing incident, two boats along from us, where a Greek skipper managed to severely redesign the push-pit, solar panel supporting frame and dinghy davits of the Dutch boat he was trying to berth next to; once disentangled he didn't return for a second attempt but did have the good grace to return personally, later, once berthed elsewhere, in order to exchange details etc. Later in the afternoon the wind got up for a second time, again rendering the outer side of the pontoon untenable.

View from Milos Plaaka

We were snug inside, did some re-victualling in the afternoon, and went for supper in the Chora and an evening visit to the Kasro to see the sunset. Our plan being, weather permitting, to depart at 0530 next morning for the eastern shores of the Peloponnese.

Wednesday, 15 June, dawned bright and clear, 30 minutes after Malcolm had shaken the crew with a welcome cup of tea we were under-way, motoring briefly to clear the harbour and then sailing in a moderate WSW wind to exit the crater and head for Andimilos which we hoped to pass to starboard. Forty minutes later we opted to eave it to port, the wind having shifted, and we eventually opted to motor through the wind shadow of this relatively small island. As we came out of the other side, 15 minutes later, it was becoming increasingly obvious the engine was going to play a larger part in our day's programme than we had planned. The wind dropped to less than 6 kts and, with the residual sea from the strong winds of the previous two days, we were never going to make landfall before sunset if we relied on wind alone. We motored on …...

Anchored in Ieraka

Eventually, two hours out of Ieraka, our chosen destination, we found wind, in fact enough wind to require a reef in the main and several rolls in the genoa; typical! For the next two hours we enjoyed an exhilarating sail and eventually entered the inlet at Ieraka sailing onto the anchor behind two French boats and.... yes you've guessed it.... our favourite Belgian, Octopus, who had secured alongside the ferry jetty, with his dinghy outboard to prevent any other boat coming alongside .. ever helpful and accommodating! A little later in the evening we decided to move further into the anchorage, motored gently in, and anchored in 3m of water opposite the tavernas. Here we stayed for a very quiet night anchored in the centre of one of the most tranquil villages in the Peloponnese. The next morning we put Christoph and Yorgos ashore to do a photographic run whilst I got on with a repair of the bow navigation lamp which had shown itself deficient during our early departure the day before. Having proven that it was beyond repair, Malcolm and I then joined the other two for a “coffee ashore” which became a fish lunch at a superb taverna called Zikos. (aka ZHKOS in Greek). The calamari were the freshest I have tasted and the sardines excellent. We ordered two half litres of house white wine with our meal and were then given one and a half litres as a gift on departure; now that is generosity!

At 1500 we weighed anchor, ghosted very gently out of the anchorage and then tacked slowly southwards, on the wind, to Monemvasia which was our next port of call, some 9 miles sailing away.

Monemvasia, lower town fron the entrance to the upper town.

Monemvasia is fantastic, a Byzantine settlement restored by the Venetians and now extensively but sympathetically restored by Greece. We berthed on the town quay on the north side of the causeway connecting Monemvasia to the Peleponnese mainland. That evening we did a walking tour of the lower town followed by a tranquil beer in one of the street-side tavernas on the main square. This was followed with a spaghetti bolognese onboard and a relatively quiet night if you discount the couple having an argument at the end of our berth and the individual who insisted on collecting bucketfuls of water from the tap nearby at 0200 in the morning!

Agios Sophia, upper Monemvasia

Next day we started early to avoid the scorching sun of midday and climbed to the top of Monemvasia to see the upper town, which is not extensively restored, and the Castro (central castle) which is virtually untouched, other than by time. Three hours of exploring and we were back down in lower town, at 1100, enjoying a coffee croissant at a local cafe before returning to Kurukulla. By 1200 we were under-way, motoring south in a flat calm towards Cape Maleas and the island of Elafonisos.

Departing Monemvasia

By 1600 we were sailing in light breezes towards the cape and, after rounding and a frustrating period of variable winds, we set off on a brisk reach for the last few miles to our anchorage. By 1830 we were anchored in the eastern corner of Ormos Sarakiniko, with four other yachts, and enjoying a well deserved G&T!

Next day we opted to motor to the other side of the Elena headland and anchor in Ormos Frangos, the next bay east, which we had to ourselves; well for most of the day anyway; that is if you discount the hoards of Greek holidaymakers on the beach.

Elafonisos

Between now and 2009, when I first came here, Elafonisos has been “discovered”!

That said, the crowd was also enhanced as a result of the Greek bank holiday weekend associated with ascension.

At 1100 next day we set off for the other side of the Gulf of Lakonika. Our original intention had been to go to Gytheo but given the light winds and the extra distance involved to go into and out of the gulf we opted for a direct crossing and a night at anchor in Ormos Vathi, a deserted inlet just south of Porto Kayio on the central peninsula of the Peloponnese. Other than a couple of locals on the beach we had the place to ourselves and tied back to the rocks for a very quiet night in delightful, deserted surroundings.

Anchored in Ormos Vathi

Yorgos decided he needed some cigarettes and persuaded me to accompany him on the 2 km walk across to Porto Kayio, an hour later we arrived courtesy, in part, to a lift from some of the folks who had been on the beach. Nowhere in Porto Kayio sells cigarettes and so we had to make do with a beer; which I insisted Yorgos paid for! The walk back was even more interesting; the lady of the taverna, who amazingly recognised me from my visits of two and five years back, told us that the direct path, which also led to the local church, had been out of use ever since the road was built some 5 years ago. Not to be defeated we set off in earnest to rediscover it; we never did! After wading through waist high undergrowth for 10 minutes we turned back and resigned ourselves to following the road. Not even goats could have gotten through that path!

Porto Kaiyo

At the top of the climb up from the port we discovered a small, unmade road leading in our desired direction which, if it proved passable, would save us 2 – 3 km; it did. It took us to the local cemetery and from there we followed a small goat path which connected it to the church (where the celebrations of the ascension were going on) and from here it was relatively easy walking via a track which led back to the bay and the boat.

Next morning Malcolm was keen to do the trek to Porto Kayio and so we dropped him off on the beach and watched him set off before having a final swim and motoring round to Porto Kayio to pick him up. On arrival we went stern to on the plastic pontoon, installed by the local restaurant, and after a coffee and beer on their terrace we set off, again under engine, in no wind for Porto Asomato where we planned to go ashore to view the “Death Oracle” and several Greek mosaics which are open to the elements.

Porto Asomato, Oracle of Death

On arrival a catamaran was occupying the small inner bay but conditions were light enough that we could drop the anchor, tie back to the rocks, and swim the 10m ashore to go and see the sights.

Porto Asomato mosaic

By 1630 we were ready to depart and sailed, very slowly, around Cape Matapan, scene of the decisive battle between the British Mediterranean Fleet and the Italian Fleet in 1941, and then northwards up the western side of the peninsula to Yerolimena where we sailed in to anchor at 1830 and, after a brief trip ashore in the dinghy to get Yorgos cigarettes, we settled down to a glass of white wine and a sausage casserole for supper.

At anchor in Yerolimena

Next morning was still and very hot, hence we took the dinghy ashore to see a bit of the town and collect bread, from a local taverna who had promised to acquire us two loaves the night before, before sailing off the anchor and ghosting out of the bay heading for the anchorage at Diros. An hour and a half later and we were motoring again with the wind having dropped to zero. By 1630 we had arrived in Diros and anchored in the corner of the bay nearest to the entrance to the spectacular caves, just outside the area with moorings, on sand and in 5m of water. Although the bay was subject to a slight swell we had managed to tuck ourselves in and avoid most of it and a tranquil night was had by all. Next morning we rowed ashore to go in and view the caves.

The caves at Diros

Rather than risk getting our clothes wet when landing on the beach we opted for a plastic bag and natures waterproofs, dressing quickly on arrival on the beach; the beach was deserted.

The caves at Diros

Our departure was not quite so discrete as two female American tourists had decided to take a swim near our dinghy; they seemed slightly surprised when three men stripped naked on the beach, climbed into a dinghy and rowed off to sea! I am not sure whether Reginald Perrin was ever shown on US television?

Outside the caves at Diros

After this we departed northwards again, needing to keep up with our programme, in order to get Malcolm to Kalamata in time for his departing flight 48 hours hence.

Our final overnight stop of this leg was in the beautiful bay of Kardamila where we settled for the night in the SE corner, out of the slight swell that was running, and spent a pleasant evening and quiet night. Next morning it was weigh anchor by 1000 and into Kalamata by 1130 in preparation for his 1300 departure. Once Malcolm had gone we settled for a quiet afternoon in temperatures of near 40 centigrade awaiting the cool of the evening before heading to the supermarkets for a major victualling exercise. Two hours and €250 later we were back onboard, after which we headed for my favourite taverna in Kalamata, the taverna Krini, which is 100m from the marina in the next road back from the waterfront. Great food at a fantastic price.

Sunset at Ormos Kardamila

That evening the sole topic of conversation with our European neighbours was the UK referendum, all were heartened by the news that the polls showed a slight lead for “Remain”; the next morning it was difficult to look them in the eye when telling them that “Brexit” was the victor. I personally could offer them no logical explanation for such a result other than to quote Winston Churchill ….. “The best argument against democracy is a five-minute conversation with the average voter”.....

More when we leave Kalamata …..

Mykonos to Milos

Mykonos to Milos

Our departure from Mykonos looked promising, following wind at 12 – 15 kts, A very enjoyable sail down the Delos Channel in brilliant sunshine and a broad reach down to Andiparos, what could be better.....The wind lasted one hour before it died to next to nothing. We ghosted south for another two hours and then decided to head left and go into the anchorage off Paros town which we reached an hour before sunset; just in time to enjoy the closing stages of a local keel boat race. This was followed by supper and a visit from Yorgos who, having heard we were in Paros again, decided to pay us a brief visit and raid our drinks cabinet!

Sunset over passage between Andiparos and Dhespotico

The following day dawned bright and clear with a pleasant NW wind. We sailed off the anchor and headed SW towards Andiparos and Dhespotico. By 1200 we were through the channel between Dhespotico and Nisos Strongilo and headed eastwards to the anchorage which is between Dhespotico and Andiparos. Having anchored under sail, on what the Heikell pilot described as a sandy bottom, we discovered it was a rock shelf with a thin covering of sand, very poor holding. We therefore moved further to the north into the more populated part of the anchorage and there found good holding and settled ourselves for the night ahead.

Balsamo Bar, Ios Chora

From here we set off mid morning for the short passage to the bay on the south side of Dhespotico which we found deserted and as beautiful as ever. It is backed by a large flat area similar to a salt flat and is the ideal place to BBQ, with the exception that we had no suitable meat to cook over an open fire... slight oversight! By mid afternoon we had two other yachts in the anchorage and a fair breeze to take us south to Ios and so we decided to set forth. We sailed south in light and variable winds but resisted the temptation to start the engine. By 1930 we were in the port of Ios, backed up to the jetty and debating the climb up the hill to the chora where we planned to have supper. Although as we walked past the bus stop where a local bus was waiting we opted for the energetic choice by climbing the footpath up to the chora, some of the party were not so keen on this option by the time we reached the half way mark, but by then it was too late! Supper was a gyros in a street-side taverna followed by a couple of G&Ts in my favourite bar, “Balsamo”, a quirky little place high in the chora.

Stern to in Ios harbour

Next morning we did some essentials, such as victualling, and watched a catamaran trying to leave at the same time as a high speed ferry arrived; the Port Police guy must have been breathless with all the whistle blowing in his efforts to get the catamaran to move out of the way! We departed 30 minutes later, sailing off the jetty and ghosting slowly towards the entrance of the bay. Fortunately we were well clear when the next two ferries arrived. Our plan was to head to Ormos Negros, my favourite bay in Ios. It was a very slow passage but by 1400 we had covered the three miles southwards and had almost drifted to a halt in the bay before dropping the anchor. It was deserted but for one new structure, built since I was last here, a particularly disgusting restaurant or bar structure, half finished and with outer walls that looked like a gymnasium climbing wall! Why?

Departing Ormos Neros

We stayed here overnight and most of the next morning, waiting for the wind to fill in. Our decision to leave was prompted by the arrival of two grockle boats (grockle = tourist in Cornish) depositing their cargo on the beach, including sound system!

From here we headed across to Sikinos, intending to go alongside or anchor off in Skala Sikinos. We discovered on arrival that this small harbour is well silted and offers very little room. The small inner jetty that Heikell recommends going on stern to is no longer an option with depths of only 1.5m in the approach (we touched the bottom trying!). This left only the option of joining the three boats who were already alongside the outer end of the outer mole. Having backed in gently, we started to come alongside a Belgian registered boat named Octopus to be greeted by the owner and his wife refusing to take our lines! His attitude was completely unhelpful! The harbour was dead calm and, with shore lines fore and aft, having us alongside would have not represented any risk to him or those inboard of him. (Having previously been the 10^th boat out at Cowes Marina during Cowes Week only four seemed pretty reasonable to me …. he didn't see it that way!) In the course of our “debate” I instructed Christoph and Malcolm to step aboard his boat and secure us which generated even more vitriol from him with accusations of poor maritime etiquette etc, he didn't seem to connect that refusing to take someone's lines and trying to jam your dinghy in the way of a boat coming alongside were hardly acts of friendship. In the end he threatened to release our lines as soon as we left the boat! Given his unpleasantness we decided that having him as a neighbour was not a price we were prepared to pay for a night in Sikinos; we departed wishing him and his wife well with a few choice words in French.

Panorama of Karavostasi, Folegandros

The wind was South Westerly, and about 15kts, as we departed rendering any thoughts of anchoring on the south coast of Sikinos impossible; our alternative was a beat west to the bay at Karavostasi on the eastern end of the island of Folegandros. By the time we arrived at 1930 the wind had died to nothing and we motored the last 30 mins into the anchorage and settled down for the night anchored in 4m, 50m from the beach. Next morning, who should arrive but “Octopus”; they anchored as far from us as they could but not before falling foul of the Port Police for obstructing the ferry turning area!

Ormos Vathi, Folegandros

After a brief victualling trip and a coffee ashore we set off under sail for the bay of Ormos Vathi on the south coast of Folegandros. This has to qualify for the slowest passage this year, 3.5m in four hours! We were determined not to be beaten by the lack of wind! By 1630 we were anchored in the bay in a flat calm and debating the merits of supper ashore in one of the tavernas. 1930 found us seated at the nearest taverna to the beach enjoying a simple but good meal and better still they agreed to provide us with two loaves of fresh bread next morning.

The following morning dawned grey and with a southerly wind, it did not look promising for a settled day. By 1500 we had collected our bread and decided to head back to Karavostasi where decent shelter from a southerly could be found. We sailed off the anchor and an hour and a half later we were settled in the south-easterly bay at Karavostasi. Here we spent a quiet night listening to the wind whistling overhead but in absolutely calm water.

Anchored in Fasolou Beach, Ormos Faros, Sifnos

Our plan had been to go back to Vathi next day but a westerly wind convinced us that a trip to Sifnos would be a more pleasant sail and hence we set off with reefed main and genoa, on the wind. Within an hour the wind had moderated slightly and we enjoyed a fetch under full sail for the rest of the passage arriving in the southern bay of Ormos Faro in time for a slightly delayed lunch. Nearby was another Blue Ensign yacht, a very pleasant couple from the East Coast of UK sailing their dream. By evening we decided to move berth into the slightly better sheltered bay, called Fasolou Beach, which is to the east of the village. At the second attempt the anchor bedded itself into sand and we were set for the night to come.

Pharos Taverna, Ormos Faros

Next morning Christoph and I swam ashore to get bread and a few other essentials but unfortunately bread stocks were finished for the day; the bakery is in the Chora several km away. We had enough onboard for lunch and with the weather being benign and sunny we decided to stay another day and eat ashore that night, allowing us to collect bread the next day. Supper ashore was in the Pharos Taverna, above the western end of the town beach, run by a Greek lady whose Romanian assistant spoke good English, always a help when there is no Greek speaker aboard. A simple supper of grilled fish served with local rose wine was thoroughly enjoyed by all; after which we adjourned back onboard for a Metaxa nightcap.

The Castro, Sifnos

Our plan the following day was to adjourn to the other side of Sifnos, to Vathi, an almost enclosed bay on the west coast but first, given the very light conditions, we opted to head north to the bay under the Castro and anchor there for a swim ashore and a look at the Byzantine village before heading south round the island.

The Castro, Sifnos

Kurukulla anchored in Ormos Castro

On departure, in light airs, we sailed most of the way to Vathi passing through the shallow channel between Sifnos and the adjacent island to the SE by the name of Kitriana. Heikell does not mention this channel and the chart that I had onboard showed it as less than 5m and rock strewn but in our time in Faros we had seen several large yachts negotiate it, thus we decided to give it a go.

In the event we recorded nothing less than 15m on the echo sounder, as we sailed slowly through with Christoph in the bow as the eyes of the ship. By 1900 we were anchored in Vathi, on the eastern side of the bay, in 5m of water, on beautiful clean sand. Ideal for the night.

Ormos Vathi, Sifnos

After a walk ashore next morning for coffee and a leg stretch we sailed off the anchor, beat out of the bay and set sail for Milos where we planned to pick up Yorgos again for his next spell onboard. The passage south was variable, from no wind to having a reef in the main and several rolls in the Genoa but we were fortunate that only the last few miles were on the wind. By 1900 we were anchored off the town of Adhamas, waiting to move alongside the next morning if or when a berth became free.

Next morning we moved in at 0930, backed into a suitable berth only to be met by a blank stare of disbelief and a total failure to offer to take our lines from the owner of the adjacent boat who was on the jetty. It was the Belgians again!

Arriving Milos

More when we leave......

Astypalaia to Mykonos

From the anchorage south of Astypalaia town we moved into the port, now fully refurbished and being run efficiently it would seem. The dues are now collected by a representative who visits the boats on arrival and water and power is controlled and available at every berth. We chose to berth at the outer end of the mole where there is a single alongside berth. At the time we were the only yacht in the harbour! Inevitably, shortly after securing Kurukulla for the night we were asked by the Port Police to move and Med moor further along as a boat was coming in that required access to the fire hydrant, which was sighted alongside our berth. My immediate reaction was that I have heard some reasons for having to shift berth but this stretched the imagination; however, we moved as requested. Less than an hour later an Irish yacht, a member of the Royal Irish Yacht Club, pulled into the berth.

Kurukulla at Panormos, Astypalaia

It was immediately apparent that the Port Police were not joking! They had had a major fire in the fore-peak, caused by the bow thruster electrics, which had also resulted in the bow thruster battery exploding. Nasty business! The boat was a beautiful Beneteau 50 footer and, I suspect, verging on a write off.

That night Yorgos, our next crew member was due to arrive, at 0340 in the morning. I set the alarm for 0320 and retired early, intending to meet the ferry and show him where the boat was. Mistake! I wandered down to the jetty, only to discover I was the only person there, and realised that with the southerly swell, albeit moderate, the ferry was unlikely to berth in its usual place. The problem was I was unaware of any alternative on the island! With no one to ask and after waiting an hour I went back to the boat and checked my cell phone;

On the wind.

Yorgos was marooned on the north coast of the island, at a jetty with little or no civilisation nearby, and was waiting for the one and only taxi in night-time service on the island to come back for the umpteenth time to shuttle people to the main port. What organisation!

Next day we re-victualled the boat and prepared to head for Ormos Panormos on the NW corner of Astypalaia, an amazing and deserted anchorage in the most remote part of the island. It did not disappoint; there was not a dwelling to be seen anywhere and only one very small chapel.

After a night and a morning relaxing in Panormos we sailed across the northern bay to the inland sea on the NE arm of the island. Here we anchored at the far end in 5m of water and in the company of four other boats. A more popular place to be! Again this was to be for only one night as we only had two days left before Lorella, our next crew member, was due to join  and this was to happen at Amorgos.

Nisos Gramvousa, Amorgos

Our sail across to the SW tip of Amorgos was a great passage, somewhat misty but with a west wind that meant we were on a close fetch and doing over 6 kts all the way. With the wind set to stay in the west we opted for the anchorage on the SE side of the deserted island of Gramvousa, well sheltered in a west wind and stunningly beautiful. Our night was calm and the morning clear and bright.  We spent the fabulous morning exploring the island before setting off to sail into Katapola in the early afternoon. Katapola is the main port of the island, and it was here that we intended to hire a car in order to collect Lorella, again at 0200, from the secondary port of Ayios Annas;

Amazing what you find in the smallest of chapels

a port which is OK for the ferry but not protected enough for us in a forecast NW wind. After a tour of the Chora (old capital) and a trip north to research the ground for the pick up later that night, reconnaissance which included supper in a local taverna, we headed back to Kurukulla to await the 0100 departure to collect Lorella. In the event the ferry was 45 mins late but otherwise all went well.

Next morning it was victualling again (amazing how much a crew can eat!) and then we departed for Ormos Kalotiri, a good anchorage in a NW blow and one where we had sheltered last year from a SE wind (with less success!).

Ormos Kalotiri, Amorgos

This was Lorella's first experience of sailing and perhaps not the best introduction with F5 winds and lumpy seas but at least it lasted less than an hour!

Next day, the wind had abated slightly and we set off for either Skhinoussa or Koufonisia, our destination depending on the wind. In the event it was Skhinoussa that won being a somewhat bumpy but exhilarating close reach away instead of the beat to Koufonisia, Koufonisia would have to wait for the day after!

Anchorage east of Nisis Agrilos, Skhinousa

We spent a quiet night in the most southerly bay of the main island of Skhinoussa, in the shadow of someone's estate, which seemed full of workmen constructing a number of follies as well as further accommodation. Obviously there is still money in Greece, somewhere!

Next morning was flat calm and, having exhausted our patience waiting for wind, we motored across the 6 or so miles to Koufonisia where we anchored in the sandy bay on the NE end of the island. A delightful spot and a quiet place to spend the night.

We awoke to the forecast, gentle, easterly breeze and after a morning of swimming and sunning ourselves we set off for Naxos looking for shelter for the following night, it was forecast for much stronger SE winds. The first two hours of the passage were a gentle sail but in steadily increasing wind.

Dawn departure, Nisis Agrilos, Skhinousa

By the time we entered the Naxos - Paros channel the wind was astern and blowing 20+ kts over the deck, 27 kts true, time to seek out our night refuge. We chose the shallow, sandy, bay to the north of Ak Kouroupa, an anchorage with good holding but not one that is well charted. After a careful entry we anchored in 3m and following a swim around the boat to check the anchor and the surrounding bottom for obstructions, we were set for the night. The next morning dawned with 25kts blowing still from the SE but as the day went on it abated to 15kts or so. With this respite we decided to make the passage to Naoussa, on the northern end of Paros, and enjoyed a very pleasant sail downwind to the entrance followed by a short beat to windward in order to enter the bay and

Anchorage N of Ak Kouroupa, Naxos

come to anchor in Ormos Ay Ioannou, in the NW corner of the bay.

Our reason for visiting Naoussa was to make use of the two very good supermarkets on the outskirts of town, plus the wide variety of other shops available. The following morning, a Sunday, we moved into the marina expecting to be greeted by the manager, exactly as Kurukulla had been the previous year. Not a bit of it. The management has been withdrawn, the power and water isolated and the majority of holding off lines vandalised. The only improvement was that it is now a free facility! Not quite what the EU had in mind when they invested some €2.3M in its construction. That night we had supper in the Mediterranean taverna, (same as last year), which was excellent and followed that with a nightcap onboard.

Monday dawned bright and less breezy as we set off on a major victualling trip assisted by Yorgos borrowing his sister's car (He is a resident of Paros). After supermarket, bakery, ironmongers (for gas) and several other stops we were fully provisioned.

Naoussa Marina

The afternoon was spent touring the island in Yorgos's car and at 1800 we finally departed the marina for Langeri Beach, on the east side of the bay, where we anchored for a late evening swim and an easy departure the next day. From here we said goodbye to Yorgos, who had to return home to assist on the family farm.

From Langeri the remaining three of us set sail next day for Mykonos. Our plan was to go into Mykonos Marina and drop off Lorella well in time for her flight home the following morning. The best laid plans. On arrival in the marina, in a brisk southerly wind, we were waived off and informed there were no free berths at all! It was evident that the refurbishment by the new management, which had been started last year, had paid dividends! There were power points, water was available and the marina was full. Last year no power, intermittent water and half empty! What a change. The alternative was to go to the anchorage south of Mykonos Town in Ormos Korfos. A good anchorage in southerlies and already occupied by seven or eight other yachts. Here we spent a quiet night at anchor and then dropped Lorella off in the Old Port at 0800 for her to get a taxi from there to the airport. Normally yachts are not now allowed to enter the Old Port and I was quite expecting to get shouted at by the Port Police or some of the tourist boat boatmen, as it was I think the early hour caught the majority of them asleep; we got away with it.  And then there were two!

Departing Rhinia

Christoph and I decided that in the southerly winds it was pointless going back to the same anchorage, (the wind was due to go westerly anyway), and so we decided to head for Rhinia. In the northern bay we settled to the anchor an hour later and enjoyed a day of total quiet and solitude. The following morning, after a late start, we sailed round to Elia Beach on Mykonos in preparation for the northerly winds forecast later in the day. We enjoyed a brisk sail past Delos and along the south coast of Mykonos and by 1130 we were anchored off the beach where the film “Shirley Valentine” was shot many years back. Here we stayed for the next 24 hours, tied back to the rocks, close in to the beach.

Kurukulla anchored off "Shirley Valentine" beach

The night was calm and peaceful such that we were even able to keep the line ashore to hold us bow on to any slight swell coming in from the south. Next morning it was an early morning swim to let the line go and a sail back along the coast and a return to the marina to pick up Malcolm, the next crew member. At this hour the early leavers had gone and there was plenty of space for us to go stern to on one of the jetties. Our plan was to stay for about an hour and then head south to make best use of the north-westerly breeze. With Malcolm plus water and victuals embarked (never miss an opportunity for either) we set off for Paros and beyond.

More when we are further down the track ….......

Good-bye Marmaris, Marseilles here we come.

After a late afternoon flight back to Turkey, from London Gatwick, it was a taxi transfer to Yacht Marine and a late night “spot the boat” challenge. Unlike last year Kurukulla was in exactly the same place I had left her 6 months before. A swift scale of the ladder and I was back onboard and 15 minutes later, asleep!

En route to launch

The next morning I awoke to bright sunshine and the noise of some TMS staff knocking on the hull, they were wanting to come aboard and complete some of the work they had been undertaking in my absence; the primary items of which were re-insulating the fridge cabinet and undertaking an extensive refurbishment of the hull above waterline. In addition the Mainsail had gone off to North sails for a full winter service and replacement of the luff rope.

The best surprise of the year was the clean condition of the interior of the boat. Having had the galley virtually dismantled, to get the fridge cabinet out, I was anticipating a similar situation of dirt and chaos as occurred in previous years, with other work. The interior was verging on pristine! Www.tms-marineservice.com .

Why I will miss Yacht Marine, Marmaris

A very pleasant surprise and indicative of a change in the working practices at TMS. In addition, all of the work that could be completed before she went in the water had been completed. Such a change to the two previous years when, at this stage, extensive work had yet to be started! The new management at TMS have certainly made changes and I can now recommend them again with a clear conscience, 12 months back I was considering taking my business elsewhere! The new owner, Emre, and his office team of Alex and Mustafa have certainly improved the performance of the company dramatically.

The new look stern with logo, Goddess Kurukulla

The other great success of the winter was the new name graphic for the stern, produced by David Mills of Evolve Creative ( david@evolve-cd.co.uk ), an excellent piece of artwork that has transformed her appearance and replaces the rather tired earlier version.

After four days onshore it was time to put her back in the water, recommission the systems, rectify a few electrical defects (including the engine start circuit!) and get under way for this years programme. Christoph joined the day after launch and helped with the final preparations and by 2 May we were set to go. €80 to the local agent to organise our departure from Turkey (it still grieves me that the system effectively prevents you from doing this simple task yourself – a money creation scheme!) a trip to the ferry port to clear immigration and customs on the way out and that was it.

Our escort on departure from Marmaris

The last visit to Marmaris for the foreseeable future. Next stop Rhodes.

This was the third attempt to get to Rhodes; on two previous occasions I had abandoned the attempt due to excess of, or absence of, wind. Third time lucky! We entered Rhodes old port and berthed in the yacht moorings on the inner face of the outer mole at the inner end of the old harbour. Here we were greeted by an efficient representative of “Rhodes Marina” (the new marina intended to provide much greater capacity now lies in virtual ruins and has remained incomplete and unopened for years, only the old harbour functions. A massive waste of money!).

Rhodes Old Town

Rhodes is a welcoming port in the off-season but overcrowded in mid summer. That said it is well worth a visit for the joys of walking through the old town, notwithstanding that it is full of tourist shops, selling tat, and tourists who seem more interested in the tat than the 1000 years of history that surrounds them.

Rhodes Harbour, outer mole

After 48 hours in Rhodes we set sail for Lindos, the original capital of Rhodes before the city of Rhodes was built. Lindos old village is pleasant enough and the bay offers a good anchorage (even if we did snag a rock with the anchor cable which took 30 minutes to unravel as we departed). Lindos is subject to the ebb and flow of tourists with the day trip boats that come and go most of the day. The saddest part is the “restoration” of the Byzantine castle and the “acropolis” within, which is steadily being turned into a modern replica, worthy of a Disney theme park.

Two days here and we were off again but this time it was to a rather more remote part of Rhodes, we thought!

Lindos anchorage

Our plan was to anchor at the very southernmost tip of the island where there are two bays on either side of a north/south sand spit configured such that a suitable anchorage is highly likely to be found in most wind conditions. Quiet my foot! As we approached we were greeted by the biggest fleet of kite surfers and wind surfers I have ever seen in one place, short of a major competition. Over 30 of each on the water at one time! We wended our way through the crowd and anchored in 4m of water on the east side of the spit for an ultimately very quiet and pleasant night.

Lindos Castle, Acropolis (reconstructed)

We awoke next morning to flat, oily calm. No windsurfing this morning... Our aim was to make passage up the west coast of Rhodes to the island of Alimia, a beautiful anchorage with an abandoned settlement behind. I had been here before two years back but was keen to return again whilst en route north. After an hour of motoring the wind filled in and we were able to sail the rest of the way, finally coming to anchor in the small bay adjacent ot one of the two settlement churches. Shortly after we arrived two charter boats, who were in the same bay, departed and we had the place to ourselves.

The anchorage at Alimia

Following a night at anchor in a flat calm we set off on a brief ramble ashore to look at the ruins of the settlement and the two churches. The last time I was here we were shocked to find an oil lamp still burning in one of the churches, this time we discovered it had been replaced by an LED version! After this diversion we were off again heading for Tilos, a quiet but enchanting island some 18 miles NW. Here we were again greeted by a very helpful and welcoming harbour official who informed us berthing and power were free, the only charge was for water, if we required it (we didn't). We berthed alongside, for a change, on the inside of the outer wall.

Waterfront at Lindos

The pilot warned of shallows adjacent to the inner side of the harbour, such that going bows to
was advised. Since this was written the harbour has been improved and there is now ample water for going stern to on the inner wall as well, as the attached photographs show. A bit of victualling and an enjoyable meal in the Gorgona taverna (to be recommended) and it was an early night in preparation for an 0600 start for Astypalaia.

Next day dawned bright and with a NW wind blowing at 10 - 15 knots. Just as forecast. We motored out and decided to use the engine until we reached the northern tip of the island rather than sail in a light-ish headwind and choppy seas. Once clear of the northern tip of Tilos we set full sail and set Kurukulla up on starboard tack for the fetch to Astypalaia. That was the theory! The wind spent an hour trying to decide whether to blow at 10 kts, 30 kts or not at all.

Lindos harbour

After an hour of trying our patience it finally settled for 25 kts from the NW, we put in a reef in the main and 5 rolls in the genoa and from here on we averaged 6 kts plus all the way to Astypalaia. We only needed a few tacks, towards the end of the trip, to enter the bay on the southern side of the island and finally bring us to rest in Ormos Livadhi, to the south of the port of Scala Astypalaia, and in the shadow of the castle. Here we sailed onto the anchor ready for a quiet night in the company of one other, French owned, yacht. That was until an idiot in a German flagged yacht motored in and spent 20 mins trying to anchor upwind of both of us. What is wrong with these people? They either have blind faith their anchors will never drag or just don't care! 25M upwind in 25kts is not enough clearance especially when the boat behind you has 35m of cable out and you are swinging over his anchor! He got the message!

View of Astypalaia Castle and Chora from the anchorage

Wednesday dawned bright but very slightly overcast but we were not concerned. It was a day for relaxing and doing a bit more maintenance whilst we awaited the arrival of the next crew member, Yiorgos, on the Thursday night ferry; after which we head north for a bit.

More when we leave Astypalaia …....