Marmaris to Kalkan

After my short sojourn in UK, to see the folks, I found myself boarding the flight from London Gatwick to Dalaman in what seemed like no time at all. At the airport I met my next guests to come aboard, Nick Stuart-Taylor and his two daughters, Virginia and Olivia (Olivia being my God Daughter). Our flight to Dalaman was uneventful stand-fast the size of the queues for visa issue at the entry point! Quarter of an hour waiting......

After entry it was a taxi to Marmaris and a quiet night onboard before getting ourselves sorted out the next day. My primary tasks the next day were to collect the new anchor, fit it, and to collect my Turkish residence permit before our departure. Fortunately I went to investigate the availability of the residence permit first; at 1130 I was informed that the Tourist Police Office was due to close for the next five days at 1200! It being Eid, the holiday to mark the end of Ramadan, even the Tourist Police office was closing! Presumably no tourists commit crimes or need help during this period! After a rapid leap into a taxi and a journey across Marmaris Nick and I arrived in time to retrieve the document; just! This was followed by a rather more leisurely journey round the local Migros supermarket to re-victual the yacht and a dolmus (minibus) journey back to Yacht Marine. In the interim the girls occupied themselves sunning themselves beside the marina pool, providing a diversion for all the young men in the area!

In the afternoon it was time to collect and fit the new Manson anchor, that in itself was not easy; I was aware the shank was much deeper than the old anchor but had not realised that it would need a swivel with much greater clearance round the pin to allow the anchor chain to rise to the correct angle on the shank. The only option was a new swivel and after three attempts, in ascending order of cost, I settled for the only suitable option, a French made swivel at £150 … ouch! The anchor is now fitted and works well but there is still need for some modification of the launching arrangement due to the reduced clearance between anchor and roller furling drum. Next winter …......

Nick on the helm heading for Ekincik

All this complete we decided to have dinner in the marina restaurant that evening and to set off early next morning for the anchorage at Ekincik. Due to variable winds the transit was half sail and half motor but we were there by mid afternoon and enjoyed a superb late afternoon swimming and sunbathing with sundowners at 1900; all followed by roast chicken for supper, cooked by Olivia.

Next morning we sailed off the anchor heading for Baba Adasi; however, plans changed. Having had a frustrating first hour with wind coming and going the wind then filled in from the SW, an ideal direction for reaching across directly to Gocek/Fethiye. Thus it was that lunch was deferred until 1600 and we sailed across to the entrance of the Scopea Limani and headed into Kizilkuyruk Koyu to anchor in the north bay tied back to a rock on the beach. At the start we were accompanied by several other vessels however as the sun set we found ourselves alone in this wonderful bay, a chance for a midnight swim in the moonless night in the midst of a sea of blue phosphorescence! Magic.....

The girls enjoying the sun.

Next day we decided not to leave this paradise but to stay another day. An enjoyable day of sun and swimming but sadly our evening experience was not to be repeated; we were accompanied buy three other yachts and five large gullets, all with sound systems, underwater floodlights and mast-lights blazing! Do they know what they are missing? The previous night it was possible to see millions of stars in the sky, one day later and you could count them on two hands! The joys of illumination and generators that run all night!!!!!

Lunch on the waterfront at Massimo's, Gocek

Anchored at Yassika Adalari, in the pool

Bored with our company we set off early (well early for us) next day and headed for Gocek intending to have lunch there and do some re-victualling. We anchored off the Municipal Marina, took the dinghy ashore and both objectives were achieved in good time. An excellent lunch at Massimo's, on the waterfront, followed by shopping in Kipa (Turkish arm of Tesco!). By 1600 we were ready to leave and headed to Yassica Adalari, scene of one of my sagas last year, to spend the night anchored in the lagoon there. On arrival we discovered only one local boat in the lagoon but he had anchored himself with a floating rope which extended right across the bay! No wonder he has trouble getting his anchor to hold on the bottom with a floating anchor warp! We negotiated the trap he had laid and anchored ourselves in my favourite place in the SE corner of the lagoon, no sooner had we done so he decided to leave and surprise surprise we had crossed his anchor warp! He was going nowhere unless we slipped our two stern lines, holding us near the shore, and relaid our anchor. Olivia volunteered to swim and so we left her treading water, holding the shore lines; untangled the anchors and then backed up again taking the lines from Olivia; this time we were in for the night! Lamb cutlets for supper and another spectacular night for a midnight swim!

Olivia (my god-daughter) and I

Dinner on the edge of the bay at Boynuz Buku

We awoke to a still and cloudless Monday, in what all agreed was an idyllic setting. Nick and the girls set off to climb to the summit of the island whilst I spent a little time sorting out a replacement for the self steering. For some reason, the day before, George (as the autopilot is known onboard) had developed a mind of his own. Instead of correcting for course deviations he would turn the boat round in circles in whichever direction the bow had deviated initially! Not clever. All of the obvious causes, magnetic material near the compass etc. were eliminated but still he persisted in misbehaving. The consequence was that I ordered a new unit from UK to be brought out by a future guest in two weeks time; for the next two weeks single handing will be a bit more challenging! On the return of the wanderers we set off for Tomb Bay for an afternoon of sunning and swimming, again (the girls favourite pass-time), followed by a short hop to the bay known as Boynuz Buku where we berthed stern to and settled for a night alongside, which included an excellent meal at the restaurant. The added bonus of the restaurant at Boynuz Buku is that they have water and power available on the jetty and so, for a meagre sum, 10 YTL, you can top up the essentials.

Boynuz Buku jetty at dusk

Tuesday was departure day and the transfer was booked from Fethiye Marina hence we sailed across the width of the gulf and anchored for lunch and a swim off Kizil Adasi followed by an early supper anchored off Fethiye Adasi; all this before anchoring as near as we could to the entrance to the marina and landing Nick and the girls. A fun day but sad to see them go...

Following their departure I recovered the dinghy aboard and then set off to anchor for the night near Fethiye Adasi again. The most convenient point for departure the next day to Kalkan, 30 miles further east.

Wednesday dawned bright but hazy, not an uncommon event in this area and it was soon to dissipate. The anchorage at Fethiye Adasi has natural springs feeding cold fresh water into the bay from below the surface. The effect on a still morning is to put a layer of cold fresh water onto the surface of the warm salt water. Refreshing and delightful to jump into first thing! After a swim I set off to Kalkan. I steered for the first two hours and then decided to try George again; he functioned perfectly for the next two hours! That is until I went below to prepare lunch. Shortly after going below I noticed that the sun was rotating about the boat or we were going round in circles again, the latter being the truth; George was having another tizzy fit! He hasn't worked again since! A replacement is on it's way....

I arrived in Kalkan at 1700 and anchored on the NW side of Yesilkoy Liman, between two gullets. Initially I did not tie back to the shore to preserve my ability to move if another part of the bay emptied. As it was both gullets near me departed before sunset and so I tied back where I was. No sooner had I completed the manoeuvre than another large gullet came and anchored right beside me! I had the last laugh however as when the wind got up, at 0200, I was up and watching out for my own security when their anchor watchman realised their anchor was dragging. They released their shore lines just in time before going aground and drifted away down wind; fortunately they had not crossed my anchor cable which was my primary worry!

Next morning dawned without neighbours! I went for an early swim and spent the day sorting out the boat ready for the next guests joining in Kalkan in 48 hours time. The following night however was to be rather less peaceful; a gullet full of Australian backpackers were determined to party right through the night, 50m away! At least it was only one night and they, along with all their neighbours, had departed by the next morning!

More when I leave Kalkan........

Back to Marmaris

Kurukulla stern to in Skala, Astypalaia

My plan to enter Skala harbour was scuppered by the high winds of the Tuesday evening, making the prospect of single handed berthing with 30 knots of wind from ahead too risky; hence I simply motored the three miles across the bay from Ormos Maltezana to Ormos Livhadi and anchored in the secure anchorage there for the night. With the alarm set for 0530, when the wind was likely to be at its lightest, I turned in. I woke 15 mins before the alarm to find the winds had indeed moderated and therefore I set off for the port just as the sun was rising. By 0615 I was securely med. moored in Scala harbour with 50m of anchor cable out ahead and well tied back to the jetty. Not too difficult a manoeuvre on your own provided the securing points on the jetty are reasonably easy to reach from the boat and of course a strong wind is not creating problems. At this ungodly time of day there was not a soul on the jetty to render me any assistance!

George and Nigel, the friends joining, duly arrived on the mid-day flight and were onboard by 1330. By 1600 we were re-victualled from the local “supermarket” (in UK it would qualify for the title “village store”) and only lacking bread; the bakery did not reopen until 1700 and so we made all the preparations to leave and did so after a last minute dash, by George, to the bakery as it reopened.

With strong northerly winds forecast for the next few days we were destined to spend some time on the south coast of Astipalaia and so headed off to spend another night in Ormos Maltezana. Next day we moved, all of one mile, into Ormos Vrissi where we sunned and swam the day away and then the next morning moved into Ormos Agrilithi for another visit. The holding proved equally unreliable but on the third attempt the anchor held well. (I really must get a more efficient type of anchor!)

Morning coffee in Kamares

By 1400, just as we finished lunch, the winds seemed to abate and, although not forecast for another 24 hours, we decided to make a dash for it and headed off to Kos.

The crossing was swift, a beam reach for most of the way, with some larger seas but nothing excessive. By 1830 we were rounding the southern tip of Kos and after a beat in brisk gusty conditions we finally anchored in Ormos Kamares at 1910. Supper onboard and a relatively early night were the order of the day.

Next morning we took the dinghy ashore for a morning coffee in one of the tavernas; our plan was also to get some fresh meat and victuals from the local shops. With the nearest butcher over a mile away we despatched George inland with the local “supermarket” owner, who had kindly offered a lift there in his car, whilst Nigel and I took the dry goods back to the boat. 50 minutes later George arrived on the beach clutching a large bag of meat, we retrieved him in the dinghy, hoisted it onboard and then sailed off the anchor at 1400 heading for the island of Tilos some 30 miles away.

Anchored off the beach, Ormos Eristou, Tilos

The sail was mostly a good reach but with some frustrating periods of light wind as we passed through the gap between Nisos Nisiros and Nisos Pakhia, around the half way point. Eventually we entered the bay at Ormos Eristou at 1945, just as the sun dropped behind the hills, motored the last 400m for lack of wind and set about preparing supper which was to be followed by a film; with a heavy dew already accumulating both supper and the film were below decks.

The following day dawned misty and damp, not something we had seen for many weeks;

The narrow passageways of the Chora, Tilos

however, it soon cleared and we decided to make the mile and a half trek (300m rise) to the chora to get some fresh vegetables and to see the “town”. En route we stopped at a small “supermarket”/taverna, 100m on the left as you leave the beach-front, for refreshments and ordered our vegetables from them rather than cart them down from the chora. A decision we were later to regret!

The chora was quiet, almost deserted. We visited the church, worth it for the view, and then, following an ice cream, started the descent back to the boat.

View of the bay from the church above the Chora

On arriving at the “taverna” we decided to enjoy lunch there rather than prepare something onboard.

The lunch!

In the event it was a rather disappointing pasta al forno, “dish of the day”, which combined with starters we did not order and three cold drinks came to €50, a ridiculous price for such a venue, first and last visit, never again! Beware!

An hour later, at 1530, we sailed off the anchor heading for Symi. Initially the wind promised a reasonable sail but before we had even left the bay it dropped away to nothing and there it stayed until we motored into Panormittis Bay, Symi at 2030. There had hardly been a breath of wind all afternoon; even so I still cannot understand the attraction of motorboats!

The monastery at Panormittis

Panormitis is an almost fully enclosed bay with a large monastery facing the entrance. Inside were two dozen yachts at anchor but even so we were able to find a place to anchor without difficulty. The night was calm and the temperature warm. Supper on deck followed by another film,”The Illusionist”; not a film I had heard of before but entertaining.

With wind still absent we motored out of Panormitis at 1000 the next day and headed to Nisos Seskli, a small island south of Symi,

Panormittis entrance at sunset

where there is an anchorage on the SE corner called Ormos Skomisa. It proved to be a delightful anchorage, not quite deserted but this was July, but with very variable holding. Snorkelling around the boat it was obvious that there were few patches of decent sand on which to anchor and the added “anchor snagging” risk presented by two large anchors abandoned on the bottom, remains of a wrecked ship perhaps? Fortunately we found sand and missed the anchors, just!

Later that afternoon we motored out of the anchorage and headed towards Symi town where we needed to be the following day. For that night we turned into Ormos Nanou and anchored parallel to the cliffs on the northern side. Unless you want to be near the beach it is too deep to anchor any distance out, that is unless you drop on the shelf near the cliffs and tie back at an angle; which is what we did.

Anchored on the north side of Ormos Nanou

With no moon the darkness in the bay at midnight was impenetrable but the attraction of a midnight swim irresistible! The phosphorescence was astounding, swimming in a pool of bright blue light!

Next morning we had a lazy start; well I did, George and Nigel seem to require less sleep than me and are usually up at 0700! By 1000 we had had breakfast and a swim and set off for Symi town with the intention of anchoring for lunch and a swim along the way. Our first attempt at a place to stop was in the anchorage inside the island of Ay Marina, just north of Pethi, but this was over-run with tourists and other anchored boats and so we continued to Ormos Symi, inside the bay in which Symi sits, and found ourselves a small cove in which to spend the afternoon before beating the rush into Symi at 1600 in order to get a berth.

Our quiet anchorage in Ormos Symi

Whilst we were anchored in the cove I also went for a trek up the hillside to get some good photographs of the boat at anchor; always good to get some exercise ashore when possible!

By 1630 we were stern to in the port of Symi and whilst I got on with some administration George and Nigel set out to find us a suitable venue for dinner than night. In the event they offered a choice of one of two, one of which I had been to before and could recommend and hence we went back there. It is the furthest from the port on the northern arm of the bay, looking back into the port; beautiful waterfront views.

Symi port from above

Next morning it was the normal routine of exiting Greece, Port Police, Immigration Police (conveniently situated as far from the port police as you can get in Symi harbour) followed by Duty Free shop and Customs, followed by Port Police again and then you are free to go! By 1245 we were under-way, cheating slightly by using “Solent rig” i.e. genoa only, as we reached downwind to Bozburun in Turkey. By 1445 we were entering the passage at Kizil Adasi and decided to anchor for the night in the small bay at the entrance to the passage where there are the remains of someone’s folly, a house/taverna mostly complete but now going to ruin! Such a shame as it is a well designed building. The anchorage was well sheltered from the westerly winds and ideal for the night. We tied back to the shore and, after two attempts to get the anchor to hold properly (never again a Bruce anchor!), settled down to a relaxed evening.

The folly at Kizil Adasi anchorage

Next morning it was time to do battle with the Turkish authorities. We motored into Bozburun harbour and tied back to the jetty in almost the same berth as last year. Many of the locals recognised us or at least convinced us they did! Try as I might I could not persuade the authorities that I did not need to employ an agent. “The rules have changed.... etc etc....”. At under 10 net tons I should be allowed to do the formalities myself but the transit log, a government issued document, is only available from an agent and they will not provide it if you do not employ them.... Catch 22! Suffice to say €130 and an hour later we were legally in Turkey! The other catch was the “Blue Card”; an electronic record of where and when you pump out your sewage holding tank, without it you cannot get a transit log. There are no facilities for pumping out in Bozburun and so you have to visit the Port Police, pay your 10YTL (£3.50), and have a “virtual” pump out put on your card. One would hope the money taken would go towards building the necessary facility but I doubt it somehow! I can't help feeling that they would be better employed trying to eradicate the enormous amounts of plastic floating in the seas rather than worrying about a bit of “fish food”. Plastic is much the greater threat to the environment. The other joy of Bozburun was a Turkish haircut, by far the best barbers I have ever found; I had the full works, haircut beard trim etc and the other two settled for a wet shave. All well worth it.

By 1430 we had completed our business in Bozburun and so set sail for one of the anchorages en route Marmaris. We set off with a reef in the main and numerous rolls in the No 1 genoa.

Bozburun waterfront

Our intention had been to anchor in one of the bays around Serce or Bozuk Buku but after rounding Karaburun the SW tip of this part of Turkey we were making good progress and decided to carry on. Little did we know, twenty minute after passing Serce we were hit by a series of vicious squalls coming from the NW, down the steep hills of the peninsular; strong gusts are not uncommon round here but these were 40+ knots, almost no warning of their arrival, and almost continuous. I leapt for the helm of Kurukulla, turned her downwind in the worst of the gusts and sought a lee somewhere to get some reefs back in; we had shaken them all out some hours before due to lack of wind! Fortunately, despite a few periods where we were way overpowered and verging on out of control, we came through it unscathed and eventually managed to get reefs in both main and genoa to reduce the sail area by half or more. Thirty minutes later we anchored in the cove at Gerbekse (the anchor holding at the second attempt) and tied back to the rocks. Even that was not to be the end of the story; at 0400 I felt the wind getting up and went on deck to check all was well, which it was, and stayed on deck until 0600 when the wind died down; at 0700 I noticed the wind had changed direction 180 deg. And surprise surprise the anchor was dragging, despite the fact that we had swum over it and checked it was well dug in the night before, (a replacement for the Bruce anchor can't come soon enough!). A hasty departure ensued and we motored up to the entrance to Marmaris Limani and anchored at 0745 at the north end of the bay Turunk Buku where we spent the next day relaxing, swimming but frequently surrounded by tourist gullets (tourist boats). Just as the sun was setting, after all the gullets had departed and we had the bay to ourselves, we were settling down for dinner when a large plastic motor cruiser, with a birthday party group onboard and imitating a mobile discotheque, came and anchored 30m away, Oh joy! Suffice to say we weighed anchor and motored southwards along the bay until we could no longer hear it, about three quarters of a mile away; there we re-anchored and spent the night!

Saturday 13 July was George and Nigel's day of departure hence we weighed anchor mid morning and headed for the marina at Yacht Marine, Yalanci Bogazi, inside Marmaris bay. I had already contacted the marina to try to book a berth but without success, “full, no spaces available before the end of August” was the cry so I decided to try the direct approach. It worked; we were offered a berth on arrival and I was then able to go into the office and negotiate for the rest of the stay I required to allow me to leave the boat there and head back to UK for a couple of weeks at the end of July, to see the folks. The crew departed at 1800 for Dalaman airport and I settled down to a quiet evening....... Tomorrow is a maintenance day........

More when I get under-way again in August.

Closing the circle

As planned I berthed Kurukulla stern to on the yacht pier at Adhamas, the port of Milos, at 1000 next morning. Sea Cloud had already departed. The conditions were a blustery north wind, to back up to the jetty against, but there was plenty of space and two French guys in an adjacent yacht very kindly took my lines and offered up the holding off rope (AKA Lazy line). Several boats along the jetty was also White Sands, the yacht who had invited me to dine onboard when in Faro, Sifnos.

Kurukulla stern to in Milos

The town is not large but has three moderate sized supermarkets and a plethora of bars and restaurants, all of which seemed to be doing a fair trade. I decided to go off in pursuit of a replacement gas bottle which the pilot advised was available here. A very friendly German couple, who operate a small travel agency on the waterfront, came to my aid and after several telephone calls advised that nowhere in Adhamas was gas available but at the next village, a few km away, is was obtainable. As one of them was going in that direction they even gave me a lift to Vato and stayed to interpret at the agricultural agents that also sold gas. There was only one problem, my gas bottle was “Camping Gas” and their contract was with Greek Gas! The bottles are identical and in the past have been accepted in exchange, irrespective of provenance; however, as a result of a recent court case (which they lost), Greek Gas now only accept their own bottles in exchange! No mine could not be refilled as they did not have the connections needed to do so. In other words, a wasted journey. I headed back to Adhamas, carrying the still empty bottle and consoled myself with a cold beer in a café whilst waiting for the bus!

That night Melvin, a friend who has sailed in Kurukulla every year for the past four years, arrived at mid-night, off the ferry. After a couple of glasses of wine in a local bar we both decided we had had enough and headed back to the boat. Next day it was shopping at the supermarket, lunch ashore and then sail at 1600 to head to the south side of the island. As we departed we said goodbye to White Sands and her crew who were planning to head west the next day. We sailed off the jetty, drawing some complimentary comments from our neighbours, and headed for the exit from Ormos Milos. Between leaving the jetty and getting to the entrance the wind went from northerly force 4 to variable force 0, just our luck. For the next hour we part sailed, part motored, towards the south coast in some horrid residual seas! Once on the south coast it was a flat water sail and much improved.

Departing Ormos Provatas, south side of Milos

We finally arrived at Ormos Provatas at 2000, anchored in a delightful bay, in 3m of water, went for a quick swim to check the anchor, and then set about producing lemon chicken for supper.

The next day there was a gentle northerly breeze which carried us off the Folegandros in good style, departing at 1000 and arriving in the anchorage at Vathi at 1530, not a fast passage but a pleasant one.

Ornos Vathi, Folegandros

We spent the next three hours swimming and reading after which we decided to research the small hamlet ashore. A brief walk, a bit of photography and a plate full of calamari plus a beer each and we were ready to return aboard, (in fact it was two plates full of calamari but the portions were so enormous that we gave one away to a table full of locals!). This was followed by a film on deck and a relatively early night.

Next morning we had a gentle sail off the anchor and an even more gentle sail to Ios passing along the south coast of Sikinos in the process. If being honest we did resort to the engine for a total of one hour or less, finally ghosting into Ormos Negros, my favourite bay in Ios, at 1800.

Entering Ormos Negros, Ios

A swim followed by green chicken curry and a film on deck completed the evening. All was not to remain so tranquil though! At 0400, out of nowhere, arrived a swell from the south-west accompanied by a gentle breeze (as forecast) from the north. The combination turned Kurukulla across the sea and had her rolling onto her beam ends! Quite enough to wake all onboard in minutes. After a few moments surveying the situation I decided that this mysterious sea, that seemed to have appeared from nowhere, was not going away; there must have been some serious wind somewhere to the south-west of us but no evidence of it where we were; hence we would have to move. We motored out of Ormos Negros, and southwards to the southern tip of Ios which we rounded and sought shelter from the seas in the NW corner of Ormos Manganari, anchoring on sand, in 3m of water, just as the sun rose. Even here the swell was creeping round the corner, not enough to keep us awake though!

Five hours later we sailed again in a light southerly breeze and set off to sail up the eastern (sheltered from the swell) side of Ios. We were heading for the bay at the north end of Epano Koufonisia, just SE of Naxos. The trip was a bit like the proverbial “Curate's egg”. Initially enough wind to sail followed by rolling arround in the swell becalmed and then a good flat water sail up the east side of Ios before losing the wind again as we approached Koufonisia and eventually motoring into the anchorage.

Sunset at Epano Koufonisia

The bay was delightful and although there were several other yachts anchored there when we arrived only two opted to stay the night.

Departing northern bay of Epano Koufonisia

It was an anchorage where we would have stayed longer had it not been for a flight booking for Melvin out of Astipalaia, only days away.

Next morning we decided to wait for the wind to set in before heading to Amorgos; the sail across was again good in parts but we eventually conceded defeat, when the seas got up again but the wind did not; ultimately we motor-sailed the last four miles to Katapola, the main port of Amorgos. On arrival we anchored off a beach, in a bay, on the north side of the harbour before moving to anchor off Katapola itself an hour before sunset.

The anchorage at Katapola

Our luck was in! Shortly after we had anchored inshore of the other boats in the anchorage the Port Police arrived and invited all of those outboard of us to move because of a ship coming in; we were OK! The ensuing melee lasted about three quarters of an hour whilst all those dislodged joggled for a position nearer the shore; we watched with interest, occasionally warning off those that tried to anchor too close to us or across our anchor cable. One Italian boat in particular had eight or nine attempts to re anchor, on each occasion either too close to others or he dragged his anchor too near the shore by motoring astern too hard trying to get his anchor to take; in the end he anchored close to us, despite our protests, and settled for the night.

Supper at "Caramel"

We went ashore to eat in an eatery I had discovered on a previous visit, Caramel, and returned to find that they had moved yet again in the dark; obviously, at some stage, they had swung close enough to us to worry even them! Next morning we discovered they had re-anchored 200m away. We went ashore to purchase victuals, replace the empty gas bottle and then returned onboard to head round to the anchorage at Ormos Kalotiri, which was to be our departure point for Astipalaia next day. Before sailing off the anchor we put two reefs in the mainsail and as we got under-way left ten rolls in the genoa. We were not to be disappointed, as we exited the shelter of Ormos Katapola we were in big seas and 25 knots of wind gusting 35. It was an exciting sail, albeit only an hour and a half in duration; by 1600 we were ghosting along in the lee of Nisos Nikouria, inside the protected anchorage at Ormos Kalotiri and struggling to make headway. We finally anchored at 1630 joining three other boats sheltering in the bay.

Departing Amorgos, Ormos Kalotiri

We had decided on an early start next morning to ensure a timely arrival in Astipalaia. We motored out of the calm anchorage at 0730, heading out via the narrow northern exit, and into large seas but little wind. The only way to make progress was to motor sail at least as far as the NE tip of Amorgos. The environment onboard was rather like being in the drum of a washing machine! An hour and a half later we rounded the northern tip and headed east, the motion was somewhat easier but still there was little wind and hence we kept the engine on. All the flogging of the sails had also contrived to cause one of the batten cars to detach from the mainsail, hence despite the sea we had top drop the mainsail to reconnect it, not a difficult task provided you are not rolling onto your beam ends whilst you try to do it. Fortunately we were able to tuck ourselves into the lee of the SE side of Amorgos for the few minutes that it took but after that any complaints of lack of wind were silenced; once on the southern side of Amorgos we were dead downwind with 15 gusting 35 knots of wind and making 9 knots! As we left the island behind the seas built up so that we were surfing at times and enjoying a roller-coaster ride downwind. This lasted for the four hours it took us to arrive at Astipalaia but as we approached the island the wind again started to drop such that as we rounded the SW tip we were again forced to resort to the engine. We decided to lunch in a bay just round the SW tip of the island, and motored in in an almost flat calm. The bottom in this anchorage is mostly rock with a thin covering of sand, not good holding but only intended as a lunch stop. Needless to say before we had even got halfway through lunch the wind had got up and the anchor was dragging. Just our luck!

Approaching the anchorage in Ormos Livadhi

We bailed out and headed for Ormos Livhadi, just SW of the main port of Skala We motored round in the flat water but strong gusting winds along the south coast of Astipalaia, anchoring in Livhadi at 1700 on good sand and excellent holding.

Kurukulla stern to on the repaired jetty

This was a secure anchorage for the night despite the wind!

A liquid lunch in Skala

Saturday dawned bright and clear with the wind still blowing but somewhat less fitfully. We motored the mile and a half round to Skala port and berthed stern to on the newly refurbished jetty, a very different condition to that which it was in last year!

View across Ormos Agrilithi, Kurukulla in the distance

Melvin caught a taxi to the airport at 1230 to catch his flight to Athens and then UK and I settled down to a lazy evening in port, preceded by an afternoon beer on the waterfront. One night in harbour is enough for me and so the next day I set off for the anchorage at Ormos Agrilithi; this is described in the pilot as offering good holding and I assumed I had been unlucky on my last visit not to have got the anchor to hold first time. (it is a Bruce type anchor, notoriously bad in weed). This time it took me four attempts to get it to set and even then I dragged the next morning when the wind (average 20 kts) started gusting over 30kts. Fortunately I was reading on deck and realised immediately what was happening; without waiting for the anchor drag alarm to sound we got under-way, left the bay and headed for the, less protected but more open, eastern beach of Ormos Maltezana where even if the anchor did drag there was plenty of room to recover. Tonight I move back towards Skala and will enter the port early tomorrow in anticipation of the next friends arriving at mid-day. Then we just need to await a weather window to commence our passage east towards Marmaris.

More when I leave Astipalaia.......

The best anchorage so far

Fish and chips Faros style!

Sunday 16 June dawned clear and bright with a moderate north-easterly wind blowing, almost ideal conditions for heading south to Milos and its surrounding islands. By 1000 two of the other boats in the anchorage had already departed and I prepared Kurukulla for getting under-way, under sail. By 1030 we were sailing gently out of the anchorage past the remaining yachts and past the scene of the celebrations some days earlier. In the interim I had discovered that what I mistakenly described as a church was in fact the monastery of Panagia of Chrissopigi (1650), the protector of Sifnos.

The monastery of Panagia of Chrissopigi (1650)

Some of the flags and banners were still flying as I passed.

Manolisi on arrival

The passage south was uneventful but for the wind coming and going and backing round to the north west. My intention was to head for the anchorage at Manolonisi on the island of Poliagos some 7 miles east of Milos.

Manolisi at sunset

On entering the anchorage I was overwhelmed by its beauty, well protected, crystal clear azure water, sandy beach and only goats for company; well until that evening anyway! The winds were light and the sea warm so I swam ashore taking the camera and flip-flops and set about getting some good pictures of this little piece of paradise. That evening another single hander came in to anchor, obviously well travelled, in an aluminium hulled boat Belgian registered; he himself was Italian. He explained later that the reason for the Belgian flag was to avoid the Italian bureaucracy; having spent many years living in Italy I sympathized with him! We were later joined by another Italian registered yacht.

The bay from inland

Next morning strong northerly winds were forecast and did not disappoint, not a day for going anywhere! All three boats spent the day swinging round our anchors and frequently swimming out to check their security. With 40m of cable out in only 4m depth my anchor had buried itself so deeply into the golden sand that nothing was likely to move it.

The offending fridge motor

The terrain of Poliagos

Thus it was I stayed four days here, partly by choice and partly by necessity. On the evening of day two my refrigerator gave a grunt and stopped working, not ideal, and so on the morning of day three I set too to repair it, which would have been a simple-ish task had it been on a work bench. Tucked away on the top shelf of the corner cupboard under the sink was a different matter. There are some times when you really would like to meet the designer of some of the equipment used in the marine field, just to educate them on the environment in which their equipment is used. After a two hour long struggle to remove it I finally managed to wrestle the cooling water pump motor free of the heat exchanger coil inside which it had, for some reason unknown to mankind, been encased. It was not even to cool the motor as they had carefully wrapped it in rubber sheet before using it as a former around which to coil the heat exchanger pipe; madness! This stupidity overcome it took me another hour or so to dismantle the motor, rectify the problem, and reassemble it. An hour later saw it on its was back in, minus much of the rubber, making it a much easier fit. Two hours later I sat down to an ice cold beer, the fridge having recovered its temperature and running efficiently again.

One of the inhabitants of Poliagos

Day three was spent on a hike round part of the island. The terrain is amazing, like walking on a field of railway ballast. It must be the remains of the volcanic explosion that created the crater in the centre of Milos (Milos being rather like the more famous Santorini in form, an island with a flooded crater at its centre). There is very little wildlife to be seen, a few goats but otherwise almost nothing, not even the ever present lizards that are prevalent in most of the other islands. It was beautiful for its desolation, all the same. Four hours later I was back onboard enjoying another cold beer! That evening the Italian single hander left and I decided to head for Milos next day; in the morning if the wind had abated, evening if it had not. Suffice to say it is five in the afternoon of the next day and I am still here. Hopefully the wind will drop as evening approaches but it is not showing much sign of it at the moment! At least it is only 15 miles or so to Adhamas, the main port of Milos.

The chora of Milos

Ultimately I decided go for it and so at 1730 we sailed off the anchor with two reefs in the main and 10 rolls in the No 1 genoa (I did consider changing to the No 2 but the forecast in 24hrs time is for much less wind and hence it would be a change back; too much effort for such a short sail and it was likely to be nothing closer than a reach). As soon as we cleared the anchorage we were doing 7 kts plus so this was going to be a quick sail! The straights between Milos and Kimolos were negotiated without problem despite gusts up to over 40 kts (force 8) and from there it was beam reaching in open water and with lumpy seas until turning downwind through the gap between Nisos Akradhia and Milos and thence into the entrance of Ormos Milos. Once in Ormos Milos there were still three miles to go but things calmed down a little!

Sea Cloud at Milos

We finally anchored in 10m off Adhamas, the main port of Milos, at 2030; deploying 50m of cable in the poor holding and gusty conditions. Who should we find anchored here, Sea Cloud, the same square rigger we saw in Delos.

Tomorrow morning I will berth Kurukulla on the main town jetty but this passage had provided enough excitement for one evening!

More when I leave.

North versus South!

Mykonos is a sort of magnetic anomaly; there are things about the island that attract you and others that you feel compelled to reject, some aspects have a magnetism that tempts you to stay and others drive you away.

The elusive north winds have blown fitfully but never consistently, or not for more than a day. For this reason I decided to enjoy an extended stay on the island. In such a small place it is impossible not to get to know a fair few of the people who live here; in some ways it's a bit like village life! After being storm bound here last year, for almost three weeks, and having spent nearly four weeks here or here abouts this year, it is incredible how many people I now know. You are greeted like a long lost fiend in all the places you have visited before; goodness know how the Myconian people have developed such a good recollection for faces and names but they are amazingly good at it!

Rubbish cascading into the sea!

The net result has been a few very late nights, or early mornings, usually preceded by an invitation to dinner at a friends house. Mykonos night-life does not close down until after 0600, a fact I have witnessed more than once! What Mykonos lacks is a good marina; the basics are there, albeit that the structure is already beginning to collapse in places, but the services are not. That said this year water was intermittently available at many of the berths, an improvement on last year. The Port police seem to have abandoned the place. The office carries a sign saying “In case of emergency ring this number”, other than that on my three visits to their office I found no one other than the maintenance man / general factotum. Hence it was a free visit, unlike last year when I was charged by the day (one overnight equalled 2 day charges!) There are rumours around that a Turkish firm has bought the rights to operate the marina; if that is the case I suspect things will improve rapidly.

Many of the Mykonians will privately admit that Turkish style organisation and inward investment is what Greece needs! Symptomatic of the Greek problem is rubbish collection where, I am told, the local Mayor and associates established a firm who then bid to provide the rubbish collection services on the island. Having won the contract they have now decided there is insufficient money to provide a full service, the result can be seen in the photo, rubbish being dumped in the sea. No wonder the Aegean is full of floating plastic!

Agrari and Elia drop into the distance on departure

Faros town from the anchorage

I finally departed Mykonos on the morning of 11 June; amazing how time passes. The departure morning dawned bright and clear with a brisk south easterly wind. Not particularly comfortable for the anchorage I was in but ideal for a fast passage to Seriphos or Sifnos. Under-way at 1000 and all was going superbly for the first 2 hours. It was 47 miles to Sifnos (the furthest of the two potential destinations) and we were beam reaching at 6 – 7 knots; then the wind changed! In the next four hours the wind went through 360 degrees resulting in very confused seas, and it varied in strength between force 5 – 6 and force 0! Mediterranean sailing can be a cause of much frustration! We were sailing at times under every sail combination from single reefed Mainsail and 8 rolls in the Genoa to all sail set and becalmed. Suffice to say we arrived towards dusk and anchored in the most easterly of the two bays at Faros in Sifnos. My recollection of this bay was that the bottom was weed covered but with some good clear patches of sand to anchor on. This year it would appear the weed had multiplied somewhat! After two failed attempts to get the anchor to hold (it is a Bruce anchor and not good in weed) I headed for the western bay and anchored well into the bay with 50m of chain out, despite the depth being only 6 – 8m. The wind that evening decided to settle in the E but because ot the variation in the wind from earlier in the day a swell continued to roll in well into the night leading to a very roly and disturbed night. Next day the wind had settled into the north and life became much more stable.

Greek Navy presence at the celebrations

As a result of a family bereavement my next crew member has had to defer joining by four or five days and so I have a few days to spare around this area before I need to be in Milos. As a result I decided to stay put in Faros for a day or two. By chance I had arrived on the day before the local saints day, for which much of the island turned out; visitors arrived by a variety of means including a chartered fast ferry and the Greek Navy. The celebrations seemed to centre on the small church, on the coast, just south of the entrance to Faros; I would estimate more than a thousand were present for the sunset celebration and of course it was a local public holiday next day to allow them to get over their hangovers! That same evening I was joined by a group of three charter yachts who arrived an hour or so before dusk. Having shouted at two of them to avoid them anchoring over my anchor cable they finally got themselves anchored and set off ashore, closer than I would have liked but not excessively so.

View of the town with Kurukulla in foreground

By 0100 when they all came back onboard the wind had changed and two of them were excessively close to each other; also somewhat closer to me as my cable had pulled out into a straight line with the force of the North wind. (I had originally anchored on a SE wind and it was now from the N). The noise they made woke me and there followed a form of “ballet of the night” as they first tried to uncross their own anchor cables (which they had managed to get crossed whist weighing anchor) and then had several attempts at re-anchoring before they could get their anchors to hold. I watched silently, but with interest! As I have said before the most dangerous thing a yacht owner will come across in the Mediterranean is a charter yacht with an inexperienced skipper. Charter yachts are also very much larger these days. Almost nobody charters a vessel under 40ft long and many well over 50ft. The skipper may well have qualified on something very much smaller and easier to handle, if indeed he/she has any formal qualifications at all! Next morning we exchanged pleasantries and they informed me all three were heading for Mykonos at the end of their charter; in a brisk NE 4 – 5 they had a lumpy ride ahead of them.

The day was grey and threatened rain, hence I decided not to move on but to have a day relaxing, reading and doing some minor maintenance. It passed amazingly quickly! The following day has dawned equally grey with intermittent rain, hence it looks like another day anchored in Faros. Sailing in the wet and cold is what I and Kurukulla are in the Mediterranean to avoid (if possible). More when I leave.......

Pottering around the northern Cyclades.

Sunset at Naoussa

We finally departed Naoussa on Saturday morning at 0930 having dined ashore a second time the previous night and filled the boat with enough victuals to last for a month! The intention had been to head for Ios and for the crew to take a ferry back from there, to Mykonos, in order to catch their flight home on the Tuesday. With the winds forecast to be strong south west or west for the next five days we decided Ios was a non starter, there are no protected anchorages in Ios in such conditions, and so we decided to go north again so that the team could leave directly from Mykonos.

Supper at the Glafkos Taverna

Hence from Naoussa we sailed north towards Delos with the intention of navigating the Delos channel and then deciding whether to turn left to an anchorage on northern Rinia or right to Panormos on the north coast of Mykonos.

Sea Cloud anchored off Delos

As we sailed past Ancient Delos the sailing cruise ship “Sea Cloud” was also anchored in the straights, making a splendid sight. In the event the wind died for an hour as soon as we were north of Delos and so, after navigating the channel, we lunched in flat calm seas whilst motoring towards Panormos; conveniently, after lunch, the wind came up again and we arrived in Panormos at 1530, sailed onto the anchor and set about enhancing our sun tans!

Lunch under way (On engine!)

Next day dawned with the predicted westerlies blowing hard and, as a consequence, we stayed put in Panormos until it abated. In the event this didn't happen until late in the evening and so we opted to stay put for an extra night and to circumnavigate Mykonos the next day.

The swimmers ashore ready for lunch

Monday dawned clear and bright with a steady north westerly breeze and thus it was that we sailed off the anchor at 0930 and beat out of Panormos before turning east and heading round the eastern end of Mykonos. By 1200 we were anchored in the quiet bay at Tigani ready to swim ashore for a final crew lunch, the only slight snag turned out to be that the taverna on the beach was not opening before 1 June and today was 27 May! Not to be defeated we sailed off the anchor and headed for Agrari Beach where we knew from experience that the restaurant was open. We were not disappointed , the welcome was excellent, service friendly and the food fresh and delicious. Our opinion was in no way swayed by the free desert and liqueur provided on the house at the end of the meal!

Delicious lunch in fantastic surroundings

After a short sojourn in the sun we set off again for Mykonos Marina, that well known (by now) dust hole on the outskirts of Mykonos town. A final night in the bars and clubs of Mykonos ensured that no one was up early the next morning and, following a late breakfast in the Mathew Taverna (adjacent to the marina), we rented a car for two hours and I drove the departing crew to the airport. I suspect they slept well on the flight, they certainly needed to! I then returned to the marina via the supermarket, returned the car and set about sorting the boat out ready for departure next day.

Shortly after my return I received a text from Joachim and Michael, the two friends from Munich whom we had taken for a sail to Paros; they invited me to supper in a local taverna that night. They had found an excellent taverna about a mile from the marina and a very pleasant night was spent sampling their cuisine. Next morning they were also heading to the airport and so they came round for breakfast in the Mathew Taverna before passing a final hour on the beach and then they too were off on their return journey. I was alone onboard, single handed, for the first time this year.

The forecast strong south and south east winds made a departure that day unattractive and so I decided to stay put for a further 36 hours, finally departing Thursday morning at 1000. By now of course there was no wind! Typical, but after half an hour motoring south the wind came up and I was able to sail south to Agrari Beach and spend a quiet afternoon sorting myself out. That evening I decided, slightly against my better judgement, to stay put and remain tied back to the rocks at the end of the beach. It was so quiet and peaceful, that was until 0330 in the morning when the sea and wind got up resulting in me having to make a rapid departure, leaving the shore line tied to the rocks! I certainly wasn't going for a swim to release it in those conditions, in the pitch dark, and it wasn't going anywhere; it was after-all tied to the rocks. Twenty minutes later I made a night entry into the bay at Super Paradise, which was much more sheltered, and anchored Kurukula in 5m of water, 50m from the beach. Needless to say the discotheques were silent; the one time I could have done with their lights to light up the bay! Moral of the story, look at the weather forecast before going to bed!

Super Paradise beach with competing discos' right and left

Paros, viewed from Mykonos, Super Paradise

Next day I returned to Elia, in slightly calmer seas, and anchored for 20 minutes to recover my shore rope. Someone had kindly coiled it on the rock for me. After that I headed back to the shelter and noise of Super paradise for the rest of the day and the following night. The discotheques, which compete to out-do each other in volume, stopped at midnight; fortunately, the wind however had other ideas!Between midnight and 0900 it managed to blow from every direction under the sun, throwing up a short uncomfortable chop entering the bay and then veering round to west to hold Kurukulla across the waves. A very roly and uncomfortable night was had by all! But that's sailing!

I now have two weeks single handed before my next guest arrives; Melvin is joining via Athens and then ferry to either Sifnos or Milos. The present eight day forecasts are mostly light and variable hence it will be a slow drift down through the islands, that is once I leave the Mykonos area, I may just wait a day or three and see if the forecast improves!

More when I do.