Sporades to Porto Rafti via the Gulf of Evia and Khalkis.

My prediction of a disturbed night was well founded. At about 0400 there was a wind shift to the east which brought the British registered sailing super-yacht into contact with a motor yacht which was well within his swinging circle. By judicious use of twin screws and powerful bow thrusters the managed to extricate himself from the restricted space he had chosen and proceeded to back up into the ferry turning area and anchor there. The net result of this was 5 short blasts (meaning “get out of my way!”) from the ferry that arrived an hour later. At this point common sense prevailed and they departed! I would not have wanted to be the “professional skipper” who brought about this debacle; his days in command may be numbered! In the meantime a French yacht had also departed the anchorage freeing up a much more appropriate space for the Spanish super yacht and they had wisely and silently moved into it, placing me well outside their swinging area. Deep sleep at last, with the exception that Mike was arriving at 0630 and needed to be plucked off the jetty using the dinghy; ah well, there is always tomorrow night...

Banana II, but not as I remember it.

That morning, leaving Mike to sleep off his overnight flight I set of into town to get victuals etc. Skiathos is not an ideal town for re-victualling; almost every shop sells tourist tat of one sort or another. Food shops are very few and far between and after the torrential downpour of the night before the streets were crowded with tourists, seeking somewhere to go in the continuing rain, and still awash with water and detritus from the drainage gulleys. An hour in town was long enough and with all the necessary victuals acquired I woke Michael and we set off for Banana II beach which looked as though it would be a sheltered anchorage in the prevailing NE wind. By 1430 we were anchored and enjoying the sunshine. There we stayed overnight and for the next 24 hours.

The following day we met up with three Italian speakers on the beach, and not being one to miss an opportunity to practise my Italian we invited them to join us for a circumnavigation of Skiathos the next day. Two of the guys, Luca and Marco were from Venice and the third, Filippo, was part Italian, part Greek which was to prove very useful later. Next morning we set off at 1100, using a northerly breeze, for a very enjoyable sail round the island. By 1630 we were anchored back at Banana II having covered 27 miles in total. Not everyone was pleased to see us! A lady (I call her that out of politeness only) soon swam out to complain that at 75m we were anchored too close to the beach. If we didn't “go away” she would call the Port Police (AKA Coastguard). No amount of Filippo's persuasion, in Greek, would succeed in making her be more reasonable. The Coastguard duly arrived and told us we were “breaking the law” by being so close to the beach. I questioned the origin of the law. One of the Coastguard officers replied “It is Greek law”, I was able to explain to him that it was not Greek Law but was in fact European Law adopted by Greece and because the law was so badly drafted it was unclear whether it applied at all in this case. It was intended to prevent power driven vessels operating near bathing beaches where they represent a severe risk to swimmers. Having undermined his confidence in his position he then became much more reasonable and, having inspected all my documents (in order to save face), we then agreed that, to keep the old woman quiet, we would move a further 50m off the beach. They departed, we moved and the old woman swam round the boat in circles for the next hour mouthing comments; it was not clear whether these referred to the ineffectiveness of the Coastguard (in her eyes) or our continued presence! Eventually she tired of it and departed.

Sunset at the anchorage at Nisos Pithou

In the course of the day Filippo had informed us that he was planning to depart for Athens in two days time and one option was via Volos. As Volos was on the agenda anyway we offered him a lift to Volos which quickly became all of us sailing across to Volos and then returning to Skiathos. With a northerly wind forecast for the next three days this was not going to be a problem, and so it was that the next morning we set off for Volos anchoring overnight at Nisos Pithou, a small uninhabited island just inside the Gulf of Volos.

Anchored in bay on west coast of Nisos Palaio Trikeri

The next day we said goodbye to Filippo, had a slightly questionable lunch on the waterfront (not a restaurant to be recommended), re-victualled, refuelled and re-watered the boat and then set off for the return leg to Skiathos stopping at an anchorage on Nisos Palaio Trikeri overnight.

Panormou, south bay, Skopelos

The next morning we exited the Gulf of Volos early and were on a brisk beam reach heading for Skiathos as the wind died and headed; in the end we decided that we would bypass Skiathos and head for Skopelos instead. Our guests were very happy to stay on an extra couple of days and Mike was keen to see Skopelos as well. In the end we finished the day in the delightful surroundings of the south bay at Panormou. Next morning dawned fair and bright but with little wind and so we motored round to the east beach at Stafilos passing a good two hours swimming and enjoying the sun before motoring round to Skopelos town to replenish with water and food.
So taken were the team with Skopelos town that we decided to stay the night there and make an early passage back to Skiathos next day. As a consequence we enjoyed an excellent lunch on the waterfront and a somewhat less successful dinner in the restaurant high above the town behind the church on the quay.

Next morning it was away early to motor to the northern tip of Skopelos, a beam reach from there to the SE of Skiathos and then a close reach along the south coast to Koukounaries beach where we finally

Skopelos town quay

said goodbye to our guests; they were flying back to Venice next day! Mike and I settled down for an early night and an even earlier departure next morning; westwards towards the Stenon Trikeri, Orei Channel and then into the northern part of the Gulf of Evia. Our intention had been to anchor for the night near the Nisos Likhades, at the very northern end of the gulf, but as we had made such good time and the anchorage was not that great we continued on down to Kopolos Atlantis, 15 miles further south. Unexpectedly the island Nisos Atlantis did not offer a suitable sheltered anchorage and so with dusk approaching we motored at full speed the 4 miles east to Ormos Ay Ioannis Theologos,

The crew at Skopelos

which was much more sheltered even if less secluded.

From here it was an easy 20 mile sail to Khalkis and a phone call to the Port Police at Khalkis informed us that the bridge would open at 2320 that night. As a consequence we spent a quiet afternoon at anchor just north of Khalkis and moved into the town quay waiting berths at 1700. By 1800 I had completed the formalities, paid my €42, and received my briefing from the Port Police. All we had to do now was wait. To pass some of the time we walked along to the Khalkis Yacht Club where we were very well received. An hour and two beers later we had been allocated a

Downwind towards Evia

berth and made several new friends amongst the membership. Supper at the Xalkos Meze Bar (excellent and highly recommended, halfway from the Yacht Club to the bridge and lying back from the waterfront) and it was back to the boat to await our call on VHF Ch 12.

In the waiting berths, north of the bridge at Khalkis

Sure enough at 2300 we were called by name and requested to get under-way and pass through the bridge.

Khalkis Bridge, no tides in the Med!

By midnight we were moored at the yacht club, assisted by members who had stayed late to await our arrival. We had decided to take a days pause at Khalkis to get victuals, find a laundry, replenish gas and try to get all the essentials sorted before heading on south.

Khalkis Bridge

With the assistance of the club secretary all of this was achieved in half the time it might otherwise have taken. The club really is the most hospitable Yacht Club I have ever visited! In return all they asked was a complimentary comment in their visitors book ! Such generosity.....

Khalkos meze bar

Supper was again taken in the Meze Bar (we were greeted like long lost friends, given a complementary carafe of wine whilst we decided what to eat, and the prices were very reasonable) and after a second night in a club berth, with our laundry returned, we set off at 1100 to head on into the southern half of the Gulf of Evia.

Khalkis Yacht Club, we couldn't get closer to the clubhouse!

Our plan was to head for Ormos Almiropotamou, a well sheltered anchorage, for the first night and then onwards to Nea Marmara for the second. The reason being we were due to pick up some friends, who live in Athens, for a weekend sail; from Nea Marmara, on the Saturday morning. Ormos Almiropotamou is not a densely populated place but it suffers more than most places I have seen from the blight of part finished buildings. 30% were empty cast concrete frames or evidently only part completed.

Approaching the new Khalkis road bridge

As it turned out we spent a very tranquil night in Ormos Almiropotamou and then motored in a flat calm to Nisos Stira for lunch the next day. The west side anchorage there was so lovely that we decided to spend the night there and accept an early start the next day. At 0830 on the Saturday morning we motored out of the southern entrance of the enclosed bay and headed for Nea Marmara in another flat calm!

Having plucked Simon and Nikos off the ferry jetty in Nea Marmara we motored out to the Petaloi Islands and anchored in the bay on the NW side of Nisos Xero for the rest of the day. There was no wind even if we wanted to have a sail! This bay is a beautiful bay and was not too crowded despite it being a weekend.

Ormos Almiropotamou

The following day we again had no wind but decided on a change of scenery and thus we headed southwards through the channel separating Nisos Megalo Petali from Nisos Zero; slightly nervously as it is charted at 3m depth and the last 3m channel I tried, in Turkey, had silted to less than 2m with the result that we spent an hour plus trying to re-float Kurukulla! The channel successfully navigated we headed for Ornos Likourimas, a bay on Evia Island proper, at the southern end of the Stenon Xero channel separating Nisos Xero from Evia. A pleasant anchorage and much less frequented than the islands.

Sunset at Nisos Stira

After a few hours here we decided to shorten the distance between us and Porto Rafti in the hope of some wind later in the day to sail the rest. Our prayers were answered. After motoring to Vasiliko on the south shore of Nisos Megalo Petali and an hour there swimming we were justly rewarded with a brisk wind for a beam reach all the way to Porto Rafti. 7 knots plus almost all the way. The only downside was that there was no berth available at Porto Rafti and so we put Simon and Nikos ashore by a touch and go on a fishing boat moored alongside and then Mike and I went out into the anchorage to anchor for the night and prepare the dinghy for taking him ashore at 0530 for his flight back to UK.

Ormos Likourimas

Not a great time or way to start the day but all was successfully completed and I settled down to await the arrival of another group of friends joining later that day.

The next leg takes us out into the Cyclades, wrestling with the Meltemi, so more when we are there.......

Thessaloniki to the Sporades

After an intense 36 hours in Thessaloniki, and with the new crew Michael embarked, we departed at 1100 on Friday 31^st of July heading for the anchorage at Ak Epanomi where we planned to spend the night. This time we headed for the eastern end of the beach which is slightly more sheltered but comes with a major fish trap on the 6m line! We avoided it without problem. The sail down from Thessaloniki was almost all downwind and offered another opportunity to give the spinnaker an airing. 4kts of wind over the deck and 4-5kts boat speed, it does make a difference!

Sunset off Ak Epanonomi

The next day we were destined to transit the Portas Canal, cut through the neck of the Kassandra Peninsula, to take us into the Gulf of Kassandra; a gulf I had yet to enter on either visit to this area. Heikell gives the clearance on the road bridge over the Portas Canal as 16m. With a masthead height of 15.6m and aerials, windex and instruments on top, this was not enough. Other sources on the internet gave the clearance as 17m. A phone call to the Port Police, responsible for the waterway, gave a figure of 16.5m, just enough, but this advice came with a warning that a boat had recently brought down the overhead power cables above the canal and were we to do the same we would be held liable!

Entering Portas canal

Overall we needed 16.2m clearance and so decided to give it a go. After a two and a half hour close reach down the coast we entered the canal, rolled up the genoa and proceeded under main alone for the first section, clearing the power cables by a small but sufficient margin.

Portas Canal, under mainsail only!

The bridge ahead looked daunting but as we approached the wind dropped to zero and we had to resort to the engine, perhaps no bad thing!

Will we?

In the event we cleared by what looked like 30 – 40 cm, enough but only just; close enough to elicit a scream from one of the girls on the canal bank! Michael thought he saw the VHF aerial touch but I was sure it had cleared.

Phew!

From here we headed out into the Gulf, under full sail, in very light winds; that is compared with the winds the other end of the half mile long canal. Eventually we had to resort to engine again, for short periods, in order to arrive in daylight at the anchorage just south of Nikitas where we planned to spend the night. It was a beautiful sandy bay, surrounded by camper vans at the back of the beach; we were not the only ones to have discovered it!

Waking to a light northerly breeze next morning we wasted no time getting under way and running downwind towards the headland, Ak Psevdhokavos, at the end of the middle peninsula, named Sinthonia. As the morning wore on so the wind became fickle and eventually settled in the south east blowing 25 – 30kts. With this potential headwind for rounding the headland we chickened out and headed for an anchorage just 500m from the headland and sought shelter for lunch! Priorities satisfied! By 1700 the wind had abated and we decided to try to find an anchorage on the eastern side of the headland, either in Ormos Mamba or further north in Ormos Sikias. In the event Ormos Mamba, although very attractive, proved untenable in the prevailing sea and so we settled for the SW corner of Ormos Sikias to pass a rather roly night, not so bad but certainly more swell than the last time I was here a week or so ago!

The anchorage at Ormos Kriftos, Nisis Dhiaparos

With another early start we set off North West to Panayia, which proved to be a brisk beat to windward away, or the first half anyway, the final hour we were forced to motor; needing to get in to allow sufficient time for Michael to arrange his transport to the airport for the next morning. I did the same manoeuvre as I had done with Nick a week or so earlier; dropped him on the jetty and stooged around until picking him up 20mins later. From here we adjourned to the anchorage at Ormos Kriftos, a delightful and perfectly sheltered anchorage on the northern end of Nisis Dhiaporos. Here we spent the afternoon before adjourning into Panayia again but this time securing alongside for the night and adjourning ashore for a splendid last meal before Michael's departure early next morning.

Harbour at Panayia

Following Michael's departure I returned to the anchorage at Kriftos to pass a few days undertaking maintenance and relaxing before the arrival of the next guest five days later. Sadly two of the nights were far from tranquil, the gods decided to put on a thunder and lightening show which kept all of us in the anchorage awake well into the small hours!

Sunset, Ormos Kriftos, Nisis Dhiaporos

With the next two visitors onboard we set off on the 10^th of August for a final night at Ormos Sikias before setting off early the next day for the Sporades and with the intention of heading for the anchorage at Planitis on Nisos Kira Panayia.

The passage across was faster than anticipated with a light but consistent NW wind until we were approaching the islands when the wind died completely and we were forced to resort to engine for the final hour. Not a bad transit overall though, 44 miles in 9.5 hours. The anchorage at Planitis is a delightful and very well protected one. The island only has one permanent resident and he is the monk who acts as caretaker on an otherwise deserted monastery. Later in the week we came back to the other large anchorage on the island, at Panayia, which is less protected than Planitis but enjoys better water quality being more open to the sea.

Departing Planitis, Kira Panayia

From here it was a sail to Alonnisos to drop off Andonis, one of the two Greek friends who had done the crossing with me and to pick up Andrew and Bruno, two friends from UK. With them onboard we spent the night in Patitiri, the port of Alonnisos, before re-victualling the next morning and then departing for a brief sail to Ornos Xero on the south side of Nisos Peristeri where we anchored for the night in a small but charming cove.

The next day was our second visit to Planitis, as mentioned above, and from there we were committed to returning to Patitiri next day to drop off Tom, the second Greek guest. This time it was literally in and out and we sailed round to the south side of Alonnisos, to Ornos Mourtia for the night. Although the wind stayed in the north the swell had other ideas and it was a less than settled night; c'est la vie! The occasional penalty for enjoying anchorages.

Departing Patitiri, Alonnisos

Given a slightly uncertain forecast for the next day, with winds from every direction forecast throughout the 24 hours, we decided to head for the anchorage at Ornos Vasiliko, on Nisos Peristeri, which proved to be much better than described in the pilot. A neat, clean bay, slightly obstructed by two laid up trawlers at the head but with ample room for anchoring and tying back along the north shore and well sheltered. Out night here was much more settled.

From here it was a detour into Skopelos for the next night for a meal ashore, water and victualling before almost circumnavigating the island to spend the night in the delightful anchorage at Panormos, surrounded by wooded hillsides and the smell of pine trees: another venue where tying back to the edge of the creek is all but essential.

Ormos Vasiliko, Nisos Peristeri

After Panormos we sailed up the channel between Skopelos and Skiathos to round the northern tip of Skiathos and head south to the bay called Banana II (or little Banana) a once unspoilt beach but now covered in sunbeds and umbrellas! A good bay to visit all the same. With the wind forecast to be consistently in the north for the next 5 days this was a safe enough place to spend the night even though it is completely open from W to SE through south. Needless to say the gods had other ideas and after a splendid afternoon and impressive sunset we were then treated to an unforecast thunderstorm that night and heavy rain all the following morning! Net result we had to move to Koukounaries, a bay sheltered from the NW which is just the other side of the headland and to the east of Banana.

After a quiet afteroon in Koukounaries we motored along the southern shore of Skiathos to reach Ormos Siferi, an anchorage sheltered from the N, and just to the west of Skiathos town. Although the majority of the night was relatively quiet, just the odd shower, the early morning produced some of the heaviest rain I have ever seen and that includes monsoons in the far east! This was combined with gusting winds. Several yachts in our vicinity dragged their anchors and had to re-anchor, some more than once. We were fortunate, the anchor was well dug in with plenty of scope and thus we stayed put throughout the storm. Andrew and Bruno were due to leave on the Saturday afternoon and so at mid day we motored the short distance into Skiathos harbour hoping that we might be able to get a berth stern to on the town quay. Not a chance! Packed to the limits and no one was moving. Even the charter yachts were berthed three deep out from the floating pontoon! It was to be the anchorage and the dinghy got its first outing of the year. The outboard engine started first time, not bad!

Sunset off Banana II beach, Skiathos

The crew having departed I settled down to a relaxing afternoon combined with a bit of clearing up. All went well until sunset when a second sailing “super-yacht” came in and anchored too close to the flight path onto the runway at Skiathos airport, the first “super-yacht” having arrived at 1800. The glide path passes over the harbour and anchoring in the approach area is forbidden. The crew of the second one could be heard marvelling at how close the aircraft were passing to their mast which was taller than the height of the approaching aircraft. Amazing how stupid people can be! Understandably this was followed by a rapid intervention by the Port Police who rightly required them both to move. What the Port Police had not reconed with was that both then made a rush to take any available space in the anchorage between the smaller yachts. These were both 40m+ length yachts, trying to anchor in spaces suited to 12m yachts. There followed a ballet in which both nearly collided and both then anchored in spaces far to restricted for their length. With minimal cable down it will be interesting to see if the forecast rain and wind produces chaos. I suspect it will! Unfortunately they are both just a boats length (Kurukulla measure) ahead of me and so even if I wanted to move I would have trouble getting my anchor out from under them! It is going to be an interesting night I fear!

Tomorrow another friend, Mike, joins via the flight arriving in Skiathos at 0630 so an early start. More when we get into the inland sea between the Greek mainland and Evia, on passage south.

Istanbul to Thessaloniki

After three weeks of doing the tourist track in Istanbul it was time to leave. Notwithstanding the occasional trip out to sea, either to anchor for a few days in the Princes Islands or to cruise the eastern end of the Sea of Marmara, after three separate visitors and three tours of the sights I had had enough; that said Istanbul is a fantastic city and I would leap at the chance to come back again but I fear it will be a few years before that happens.

Kurukulla alongside a trawler in Cakilkoy

We departed from Yalova marina a day later than planned to allow Jayson the opportunity to reach the boat easily without trekking around half of Turkey to join us. On departure we were three onboard with Stephen due to leave a day later. Our day of departure was brilliant sunshine but windless! In fact we motored much of the way from Yalova to Kakilkoy; a small, sleepy, fishing port some 50 miles west. On arrival it was evident that there were no med moor berths available for us, let alone alongside as a result we dropped Stephen on one of the fishing trawlers and left him to go research transport from Kakilkoy to Bandirma, from where he was to catch his ferry back to Istanbul the next morning. Within ten minutes he had found a suitable taxi and also agreed with the owner of the trawler, where we had dropped him off, that we could remain alongside all night; they were not going to sea; only later did we find out that none of the trawlers go to sea during Ramadan. At eight that night the taxi turned up to take him to the ferry port, the only minor problem was that he was not due to leave until eight the next morning!

Marmara north coast, one big marble hole in the ground.

Language difficulties. In the event the taxi driver pointed him in the direction of a dolmus (Minibus) which was due to leave for Bandirma at 0830 the next morning, a very generous gesture which cost the taxi driver money but saved it for Stephen.

Next morning Jayson and I waved him off and then set sail for the Pasalimani Islands to spend the next three days cruising the islands and doing a circumnavigation of the island of Marmara. After that it was a visit to Erdek again to re-victual and water and then a final night in the Pasalimani Islands before setting off west for the entrance to the Dardanelles.

Jayson at Pasalimani

Our passage from Pasalimani west was originally intended to take us to Karabiga but in the event we made such good speed downwind under “Solent Rig” (Genoa only) that we pressed on to Kemer, inside the Dardanelles, and anchored to the south of the harbour for a quiet night onboard before pressing on to Canakkale the next morning. The passage to Canakkale was rapid to say the least; with up to 4 kts of current assisting us and a 25 to 30kt north-easterly pushing us along we made the passage in record time.

Jayson and I taking a coffee at Erdek

By 1400 we were berthed in the marina and Jayson was preparing to depart for the backpacking part of his Turkish adventure.

My crew from Canakkale onwards was Nick who arrived at 0100 the following morning having flown in from Gatwick via Oslo and Istanbul, a tortuous flight but economic and all went well.

Pasalimani

The forecast for the next day was not good, N gusting 37kts plus and so we decided to spend the day victualling the boat, sightseeing in Canakkale, completing the exit formalities for Turkey and then to make an early departure the next day. For the exit formalities I decided to use an agent, he duly arrived and agreed a price of 200YTL for the task which would take him three hours; at 1500 he would have all the papers back with us and we would be free to leave at sunrise the next day.

Supper at Kemer

Suffice to say it was 1730 when the papers arrived back in the hands of an assistant, duly completed, and the price had strangely gone from 200YTL to €200, i.e. trebled! After a slightly heated debate we settled on €120, but I still felt as though I had been “ripped off” as our agreement had been quite clearly understood; they were trying to compensate for the additional time it had taken them but that was their bad judgement.

Next morning, at 0600, we set sail from Canakkale Marina and crossed the Dardanelles to the western side before sailing downwind, at 10kts (overground, by GPS),

Turkish memorial at Gallipoli

south westwards out of the Dardanelles past the Turkish and British memorials on the southern tip of the Gallipoli peninsula. From here it was a brisk reach 50 miles westwards to Limnos where we had decided to anchor for the first night just south Ak Mourtzeflos, the NW tip of the island.

So taken were we with this remote and unspoilt anchorage we stayed a second night before moving on to Mirina, the capital of the island, where we were due to enter Greece officially. Limnos is beautiful and I immediately fell in love with the island. Not overpopulated, nor crowded with tourists, but lively and full of character nonetheless.

Anchorage NW Limnos

On going stern to in the port of Mirina the first task was to enter Greece and the EU officially. A trip to the local Port Police achieved all of the bureaucratic actions in one fell swoop, never before have I had the pleasure of such efficient service, no running around three different offices and the young official who I dealt with knew all the latest rules, a real pleasure; but, the stamp needed to stamp my cruising permit was in use elsewhere and so I would have to come back at 2000 to collect the paperwork. No problem, after such good service it was a small price to pay. Sadly the same official was not present on my return; not only did his relief not want to give me back my paperwork, he had to summon a female colleague to interpret for him as he spoke little or no English.

Myrina, Limnos

His female colleague agreed that I should take my papers but then insisted that I come back the next day for an exit stamp, I explained that as an EU registered yacht I needed stamps on the permit only on entry and exit to Greece, or once per year if still in Greece. She disagreed and suggested that if I departed Mirina without a stamp she would call ahead to Thessaloniki and “cause trouble for me there”! I called back in the office next day and explained why I was not going to have my documents stamped before departure and the official on duty agreed that my understanding of the new rules was correct. I invited him to re-brief his colleague and suggest to her that “if you are unsure of the regulations it is better to stay quiet and have people think you are stupid than to open your mouth and prove it beyond all reasonable doubt”.

Mirina waterfront, Limnos

He smiled!

That afternoon the wind was blowing 20 to 25kts from the east, right along the line of the jetty to which we were berthed, all of the yachts were leaning against each other and it was not going to be long before someone's anchor dragged and the whole row of boats would find themselves grating against the jetty. We decided to get out before it happened and move round to the next bay south which was a large open bay with plenty of room to swing at anchor. After delaying until 1700 for the harbour office to open to enable us to pay our harbour dues (in fact, after waiting until 1715 and then consulting the Port Police, I was informed that man responsible for the harbour office had decided not to re-open again today as no new boats would arrive in these high winds; we were officially given a free stay!) we got underway.

Mirina castle, Limnos

Despite the surprise of our two neighbours, who thought it was too windy to leave harbour, we exited our berth without mishap and motored round to Ornos Plati arriving 30 minutes later. The anchor was somewhat reluctant to penetrate the weed, which was much more extensive than the pilot suggested, but after three attempts we got it to hold. Despite veering 50m of cable and being in only 8m depth it was not to last the night, At 2330, with the wind still rising, the anchor drag alarm went off and we had to reset the anchor in the pitch black. Successfully achieved, further towards the eastern end of the bay, and now with 60m of cable out, we settled down for the night. Next morning we were awoken by the coxswain of the rescue boat from the Mark Warner, Limnos Bay Hotel, water-sports centre informing us that we were in the middle of their sailing area.

Sun setting over Mount Athos, from Ormos Plati

He advised us it was not a problem for them but that we would have numerous sailing craft around us most of the day. In fact because of the wind strength it was to provide us with considerable entertainment throughout the day watching the various craft capsize and right themselves or be rescued. Because of the weather we, on the other hand, decided not to go round to Ormos Moudhrou, the bay from which the British Gallipoli campaign was waged and supported, but to leave for Khalkidhiki from Ormos Plati at daybreak the next morning.

The sail across to Mount Athos and into the Gulf of Singitik was a fast reach all the way, averaging 8 kts. Only after we turned into the gulf, south of Mount Athos, did we lose some of the wind and drop in speed. Soon after arriving in the Gulf we were challenged by a Coast-Guard RIB (I think they were going to complain about our attire, or lack of it; we rectified the problem before their arrival!).

Mount Athos

In the event, when they came alongside, they initially limited themselves to informing us that we were not allowed closer than 500m from the sacred shoreline (we were a mile offshore) after which a second, older member of the crew questioned our ensign, not believing it was a British ensign (Kurukulla wears blue ensign, not red, by virtue of my membership of the Royal Naval Sailing Association) that explained he then demanded to know where our Greek courtesy flag was, pointing at the RNSA burgee on the port halyard; there ensued another explanation that it was in the senior position on the starboard halyard, where tradition dictates it should be, and if he looked between the genoa and mainsail he would see it there! By this time his colleagues were sufficiently embarrassed by his lack of knowledge that they accelerated and turned away, before he could put his foot in his mouth again, giving us a cheery wave and a broad smile as they departed! Despite this brief interlude we had a very pleasant sail up the gulf to Nisos Amouliani, where we anchored in the bay on the western side for the night. I had anchored here in 2011 and knew it to be a pleasant, if touristy, spot.

Next morning, after breakfast and a leisurely swim we set off for the anchorage inside Nisis Dhiaporos, on the opposite side of the gulf.

Nisis Dhiaporos

It was a close fetch across and a great sail. On arrival we entered through the southern entrance into the sound between the island and the mainland shore and then chose a quiet and unspoilt anchorage on the island shore at Ormos Mesopanayia. A quiet night here was followed by motoring out next morning through the northern entrance and a brief visit to Panayia town, to get some fresh victuals, a useful stop and where there is now a small marina as well as the town quay. After sending Nick ashore, with me pottering about the bay, I picked him up again and we set off for Ormos Sikias, near the southern tip of the Sinthonia (middle) peninsula. After a beat to windward, the whole way, we entered the bay at Ormos Sikias at 1700 and anchored in the SW corner, in 5m on pure golden sand. Idyllic!

Athos in the early morning from Ormos Sikias

Next morning we watched the sun rise over mount Athos before taking a leisurely swim and then getting underway for the passage to Nea Skioni, the next destination. In the event the wind died away in the later part of the afternoon and as a consequence we anchored off the shoreline a mile or two short of the town, in a flat calm. It stayed that way for the rest of the night and most of the following day resulting in a frustrating days motoring to get to Ak Epanomi, where again we anchored off the vast sandy beach in a flat calm. The next day we had to be in Thessaloniki for Nick's departure early the following morning; the windless morning did not get the day off to a promising start however by 1400 a south-westerly breeze had established itself and by 1600 we were enjoying a great spinnaker run which took us all the way to Thessaloniki Marina.

Ormos Sikias

A great finish for Nick. It also served to remind me that I really must get a new spinnaker! This one still has the remains of the Italian sail number carried by Kurukulla when she was raced under her first name, Noefra. Anyone know of a good condition, second-hand, spinnaker, suited to a Grand Soleil 39, Swan 40, or similar which is available to purchase?

Arrival in Thessaloniki Marina was fairly easy but it has a quite run down air about it. Two thirds of the berths are empty. We tried two berths before finding a berth with holding off lines of sufficient length and the electric and water connections are looking very tired. That said the lady who is the office manager is a star and exceptionally helpful.

Anchorage just south of Skioni

The marina is run by the local council and is therefore low cost but it sticks to the regime of charging from midnight to midnight therefore for one night you have to pay for two days. This is laid down in the regulations governing town quays in some obscure piece government legislation but I have only seen it applied in two places, Mykonos Marina and Thessaloniki.

My major task whilst in Thessaloniki was to replace the three 100Ah domestic batteries which were failing rapidly.

My rather tired spinnaker

In Greece's second largest city you would think that might be easy. It was not, but I eventually succeeded with the assistance of “Marineshop” an exceedingly helpful chandler on the road just above the marina. €580 later it was all fixed! Not too bad.......

More when I leave.......

Into the Sea of Marmara, and onwards to Istanbul

A very wet crew, en route up the Dardanelles

Having waited for the wind to abate, to allow us to make the passage up the Dardanelles without fighting current and strong winds, it duly did; only to be replaced by periods of torrential rain! The passage up the Dardanelles was made hugging the southern shore as tightly as we could to keep out of the worst of the current, which reached 4+ kts at some of the headlands, thus reducing our speed over ground to 1.5 kts. A crawl! We had departed in the early morning in the hope of escaping the Straits in the one day however the rain and grey skies sapped our resolve and we finally put into the harbour at Lapseki to seek shelter from the rain by retiring below and to pass the night. This was the same refuge I had used four years earlier but in the intervening period the depths in the harbour had reduced through silting and we were forced to anchor relatively near the entrance for fear of going aground a second time this season; as it was we encountered 2.1m, only 0.1 metres more than our draft!

Entrance to Lapseki

The night in Lapseki was tranquil and the morning bright. The only thing lacking was wind! Having motored all the previous day (beating up the Dardanelles, against the foul current, in the pouring rain, for some reason held no attraction!) we were keen to get under sail again but it was not to be. We motored out into the Sea of Marmara in a flat calm, and so it was for the rest of the day. Our aim was to reach the Pasalimani Islands and seek an anchorage there, and after 7.5 hours and 41 miles covered we anchored off the SW coast of Avsa Adasi, only to discover that the bay we had chosen was too deep close in to allow us the necessary swinging room, hence we upped anchor again and moved round to the SE side of the island where we found a delightful anchorage off Kumburnu Limani.

Dawn mist at Avsa Adasi

After a peaceful night and an early morning swim we sailed off the anchor and headed into the sound at Pasalimani. The western entrance is now marked by port and stbd hand buoys as well as an Isolated danger mark on the small group of rocks just inside the entrance. With the wind dying away yet again we finally motored the last mile or so into an anchorage on the western side of the sound, adjacent to Koyun Adasi. With no wind and little else to do we passed a pleasant afternoon relaxing in the bay, swimming and sunbathing. As evening approached we motored across the bay and went stern to on the northern side of the redundant ferry pier. Although close in, and with less than 3m depth, it was safe enough to allow us to proceed ashore for dinner in the only restaurant in the village, sitting out on their boat pier, watching the sun set, over the water. The meal, salad and grilled fish, was simple but good and very inexpensive even including two bottles of very passable local wine (the proprietor seemed not to possess a corkscrew, the corks were pushed into the bottle – he obviously does not sell much wine!). On our return to the boat we discovered that the breeze had shifted direction, bringing one of the local boats, on a very slack mooring, too close for comfort. For this reason we pulled off the jetty at midnight and anchored a short way out, opposite the Jandarma (Military Police) station. Safe for tonight then!

Kurukulla on the redundant ferry pier at Pasalimani

Next morning we dropped Christoph back on the jetty to procure some fresh bread and attempt to get a gas bottle filled. Sadly neither was possible, the baker had not yet started baking and the gas (hardware) shop did not have the necessary fittings to fill European Gaz bottles. Having retrieved him from the jetty we set off north to a bay at the north-eastern end of the sound for a relaxing lunch and to await some wind. By 1500 there was a slight breeze and so we set off for the south coast of Pasalimani via the channel to the east that separates it from the Kapidag Peninsula. By 1900 we were anchored in a bay, at the bottom of a delightful green valley, near the SE corner of Pasalimani. Another quiet night!

With less than 48 hours to go to Melvin's departure we decided that it would be wise to plan for him to leave from Erdek and take a taxi to Bandirma, only 5 miles away by land but on the other side of the isthmus that connects the Kapidag Peninsula to the mainland, hence 35 miles by sea! For this reason we spent the following day sailing in the waters between Pasalimani and Erdek but going nowhere in particular, ending up anchored in the NW corner of the bay, at Ocaklar, 4 miles away from Erdek town. From here it was an easy hop next morning, in the flat calm, to motor into Erdek.

Alongside the "Aqua nightclub", Erdek

The town quay at Erdek is mostly occupied by small local boats and hulks used as floating bar/restaurants. We were fortunate to be able to squeeze in between a local yacht and the small jetty, on the opposite side of which was the latest floating bar, “Aqua”, being prepared for its opening. The refit was in full swing but they broke off to take our lines and were very happy for us to connect into their electricity supply as well. Their plan was to open two days later but there was still much to be done! After lunch ashore Melvin departed in his taxi and Christoph and I set off to procure victuals from the local shops; that done we settled for an evening in Erdek and decided on a relatively early departure the following morning.

Sunset looking from Koyun Adasi towards Avsa Adasi

In the event it was 1000 when we let go our lines and set off for an anchorage on the W side of Koyun Adasi, a deserted bay that I had sighted on my previous visit in 2011 but had not had time to research. By 1830 that evening, after a day of drifting at 1 – 2 knots, we were anchored in the intended bay and enjoying a G&T or two, supper and a spectacular sunset; all in that order. In the event it was a delightful anchorage, that is if you can ignore the ever present jelly fish that are in the Sea of Marmara in their millions; they are wherever you look.

Ever present jelly fish!

Eventually you get used to brushing against them as you swim but the sensation takes some getting used to! Uggh! On a more positive note there also seem to be many more dolphins this year, in both the Aegean Sea and Sea of Marmara; hardly a day has gone past, since leaving Marmaris, without at least one sighting of a pod and frequently there have been several sightings in a day.

Becalmed in the Pasalimani Islands

Our plan was to leave next morning, as soon as there was any wind, and this we did at 1130, ghosting out of the bay on a very light westerly breeze, it lasted all of 15 minutes! Between 1200 and 1600 we covered all of 400m! A slight southerly current (0.2 kts) offset any gains we made in moving north! Eventually we gave in and started the engine and motored east, along the north coast of the Kapidag Peninsula looking for a suitable bay for the night. We settled upon a small but delightful bay just 800m east of Turan. We had it to ourselves, that is if you don't count the very few vehicles negotiating the unmade road halfway up the surrounding escarpments.

Kurukulla anchored in a small bay just W of Ormanli Burnu

This bay was paradise but sadly the beach was saturated with plastic rubbish. It is hard to believe that in the 50 years since mass produced plastic was invented we have managed to fill so many of the world beaches with plastic refuse! It cannot go on like this! At least glass sinks and eventually returns to sand when carelessly abandoned on a beach!

The never ending plastic debris

Next day we had a relaxing day of sun and swimming, enjoying the tranquillity, before setting out eastwards again at 1600. As our luck would have it the cooling onshore breeze that we had enjoyed all day, instead of getting stronger as the afternoon went on, faded away leaving us no option but to motor again along the coast heading for either Cakilkoy, a fishing harbour at the eastern end of the Kapidag Peninsula, or the islands just off the end of the headland known as the Mola Adalari. As we approached the islands clouds developed very quickly and for the last quarter mile we suddenly had winds of 25 kts but only for 15 minutes, but the time we had anchored in a bay on the leeward side of the largest of the islands we were back to a flat calm! Exactly the same as the weather we awoke to next morning!

At 0900 we weighed anchor and ghosted away from the island setting course to the east, close hauled on port tack, intending to cover a least half of the distance to Istanbul. By 1030 we had had to resort to motor sailing as the wind, what there was, had chosen to back round to the W and hence we were now going downwind in 3 – 4 knots of true wind, hardly quick progress, and we had 35 miles to go! I got worse! By 1400 we had had to roll up the genoa, haul the mainsail in to the centreline and we were motoring along in a flat calm. Eerie! Only in the last two hours of a eight hour passage, did a gentle breeze appear from the NNW, allowing us to dispense with the engine for the final stages into Armutlu where we anchored off the rather touristy beach; an anchorage tenable in northerly winds or a calm; and where we settled down for a relaxing, if less than tranquil, evening.

Armutlu waterfront and static windmills

On the hillside behind the beach were numerous static monuments to Turkeys race to generate power from the wind, I hope the populous, living in the functional but rather characterless blocks of flats fronting the beach, remember to switch off their air conditioning on stifling but windless days like today!

The next day was a fairly gentle passage starting with ghosting around the headland at Boz Burun and then eastwards along the south shore of the Sea of Marmara towards Yelova Marina where we planned to spend the first few days of the sojourn in and around Istanbul.

Yalova marina

Yelova is a relatively new marina and probably the cheapest available with good ferry links to the city. There are direct and inexpensive ferries to Pendik on the Asian side of Istanbul and Atakoy on the European side. The marina proved to be a quiet location but with good facilities and at €50 per night we were not complaining.

After four days in the marina and doing the tourist trek in Istanbul each day we were getting itchy feet and so set off for a night at anchor in the Princes Islands. The anchorage at Cam Limani, on the island of Heybeliyada, is one of the best sheltered in this part of the Sea of Marmara and for this reason is popular with visitors and locals alike but on this occasion, given the rather unseasonal weather, there was plenty of room. After a brisk close reach across from Yalova, averaging 7 knots, we anchored in the bay and settled for a quiet night onboard. This was the penultimate day onboard for Christoph, my crew for the last 6 weeks, so we settled down to supper onboard and a bottle or two of wine.

The next day we sailed off the anchor and headed across to Pendik marina from where Christoph could easily get a taxi to Istanbul Sabiha airport at 0600 the following morning. All went as planned and I am now back to being single handed for a few days. Back to the Princes islands tomorrow!

More on departure from Istanbul.............

Sunset at Pendik marina

Old Istanbul

Hagia Sophia

Self at Orient Express Restaurant, Istanbul Stn

Taksim Square

Topkapi Palace entrance

Inside the Harem, Topkapi Palace

Sultan Ahmet (Blue) Mosque