Porto Rafti to Mykonos

Porto Rafti to Mykonos

With Ale, Ray and Dimitri safely embarked and a major re-victualling exercise completed at Carrefour we moved and spent the night in the anchorage to the south of the promontory in Porto Rafti bay; the move was in order to avoid a rather uncomfortable swell that had built up from the NE during the day. The following morning we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast and then got under-way to Ornos Kavia in Kea. The original plan had been to stay further north and head for Ormos Kastri on the SE corner of Evia, as a precaution against the onset of the Meltemi, this was abandoned due to the brisk ENE wind that we were faced with. The choice was a 20 odd mile beat to windward in 20kts or a beam reach to Kea. No contest, Kea here we come.

Departing Ormos Kavia, Kea

Three hours and 22 miles later we were safely anchored in Ornos Kavia, enjoying a late lunch and the sunshine. Ornos Kavia is a popular beach with some very tasteful developments interspersed with numerous windmills. They are even in the process of demolishing some of the redundant concrete structures left over from the failed building boom. The anchorage was indeed so good that we decided to stay an extra 24 hours and avoid a bout of strong northerly wind forecast to be passing through next day!

After our extended sojourn in Kea we sailed off the anchor in the early morning of Thursday, round the southern tip of Kea, and headed for Ornos Kolona in Kithnos;

Ornos Kolona, Kithnos

chosen because of the hot springs on the beach in the northern bay. The initially the intention was to make this a lunch stop but so taken were the team with the bay that we decided to stay overnight and set off early next day for Siros. The net result was an evening spent toasting the sunset, with G&T, on the top of the hill behind the bay. This venue has great views and is amongst a collection of enormous cairns (goodness knows who built them); all of this was followed by a late evening soak in the hot spring.

By 0830 next morning we were motoring out of the bay in a flat calm, hoping to find wind as we rounded the northern tip of Kithnos; it was not to be! The wind wistfully came and went throughout the morning but was never strong enough to shut down the engine for more than 15 minutes at a time.

Sunset at Ornos Delfino, Siros

By 1430 we were anchored in Ornos Delfino, on Siros, and swimming ashore for a drink and ice-cream from the beach taverna. Later that afternoon the team walked the 1.5 km to Kini, the next, more populated, bay to the south where they were able to procure some provisions. In anticipation of a spectacular sunset we all collected at 1930 on Kurukulla's foredeck, G&T in hand; we were not disappointed: it was the most spectacular sunset I have seen for many years. The sky was an amazing flame red! Well worth waiting for.

By close of play next day, Saturday, we had to be in Mykonos for Dimitri's departure on the following morning. As a consequence it was yet another early start but not wasted. We motored to the northern tip of Siros and then set full sail for a brisk reach under No2 Genoa and full main (later reefed) to the north of Rhinia and then round onto the south coast of Mykonos heading for my favourite anchorage at Elia Beach.

The "Shirley Valentine" beach at Elia

This was the best sail of the season so far touching 9.5kts at stages and averaging over 8. By 1500 we were anchored off the beach and having lunch prior to swimming ashore. It was with regret that at 1730 we had to leave the anchorage and head for Mykonos Marina to allow Dimitri to catch his ferry next day.

After a wet and windy motor to windward up the west side of Mykonos we finally berthed in the marina at just after sunset. The good news is that some investment has been made in the marina and power/water terminals have now been installed. There are still no holding off ropes though although I am told by Nikos (the Marina “Manager”) that further work is planned this coming winter! After a hot shower at the cafe opposite the marina (€5 per head) it was off into Mykonos town for a splendid dinner at “Funky Kitchen” and to renew acquaintances with the Piano Bar, Porta Porta and several other bars.

Ormos Langeri in the bay at Naousa, Paros

Sunday morning was not a great experience, all were suffering from a moderate hangover, but after a large and leisurely breakfast at Matthews Taverna we said goodbye to Dimitri who headed for his ferry and the rest of us prepared to head back to Elia in the mid afternoon. Here anchored off Elia Beach Kurukulla was destined to stay for six days due to strong northerly winds. The Meltemi had definitely set in! As a consequence we arranged for the water sports boat from Agrari Beach to collect Ray and Ale and transfer them ashore in time for them to catch a taxi to the airport on Wednesday morning. It was orders of magnitude easier than flogging back round to Mykonos Marina in the conditions prevailing. I was now single handed again for the first time in several weeks.

What a forecast!

Having sheltered from the Meltemi in Elia bay for four days the forecast at last changed and offered a chance to head south before the forecast southerly winds set in. Naousa in Paros was the ideal destination given that it provided good shelter from southerly winds and the forecast was somewhat extreme, see the adjacent screen shot, northerly winds gusting to 106mph! This had to be an error but how much of an error was the question! All other indicators were for winds from the southern sector of light to moderate strength. The passage to Paros was tedious, I had delayed too long and the southerlies had already set in by the time I left Elia, mid morning Sunday. It was to be a motor in light, contrary, winds all the way. The only advantage was the new batteries got their first full charge for several weeks!

Sunset at Ormos Langeri, Paros

Once in the bay at Naousa I headed for the eastern side of the bay where there is a sheltered anchorage for the forecast southerly winds. It is a beautiful sandy beach with the added advantage of being one of the clothes optional beaches in Paros! After 36 hours anchored here I moved across to the town and took the last vacant place in the marina; it was well inside and therefore sheltered but a challenge to get in to at any time, let alone single handed. Fortunately all went well; the marina “manager”, having realised I was alone onboard came to take my lines and offer up the “holding off” line which was available. The marina is now a private marina and charges €30 a day for Kurukulla (12m), last year it was free and the year before it was being run by the municipality so something is changing, as with Mykonos.

Anchored at Rinia, Northern bay

With full tanks of fuel and water, fully victualled and the bar restocked, and the new crew of Simon and Yorgos onboard we sailed back to the anchorage for a final night and a relatively early departure back north, saling downwind initially to Rhinia North bay via the Delos Channel and then, two nights later, to Mykonos to collect Jason another crew member flying out from UK. After one night off Mykonos; during which we got up at 0400 to see the eclipse of the moon (only to discover it was 100% cloud cover) we set off on a fast sail, using the Meltemi, down to Ormos Dhendro in Dhenoussa for a night in the bay there; we were expecting to be the only boat there. To our surprise there were four boats anchored in the bay already. Fortunately they had left us a space near the beach and we sailed through the anchored boats, onto the anchor, just as the sun was setting. This was followed next day by a morning swimming and lunch ashore in the taverna before departure.

Lunch in the beach taverna, Ornos Dhendro, Dhenoussa

After lunch it was a sail off the anchor and a very fast and bumpy reach across to the south coast of Naxos where we put in for the night in Ornos Panormou, a beautiful and quiet cove on the SE corner of of the island. Panormou is an anchorage which is well protected from the Meltemi; however, the wind still howled overhead most of the night.

The following day we decided to see what our options were for making ground north after rounding Ak Giatani, the southerly tip of Naxos. As we approached on a relatively gentle beam reach it was obvious that a significant challenge awaited us if we wanted to go to windward! We opted for the less demanding option of reaching across to the south coast of Paros and even this was a challenging ride, especially for Yorgos who had not been out in such conditions before.

Entering Ornos Panormou, Naxos S coast

We initially put into Aliki which is a relatively wide, sandy bottom, bay on the south west of Paros, sited at the end of Paros airport runway! After three hours of gale force gusts we decided to retrace our steps by 2 miles and return to Ornos Faranga which is a smaller but better sheltered option. Here we landed Yorgos to return to his home on the island and spent the night hoping that the wind might abate by the morning, as forecast. Our hopes were raised by the anchor alarm going off three times during the night as light winds pushed us north towards the beach (we had set it to be sure that we did not swing too close to the beach; expecting the north wind to hold us off the beach all night. We were wrong!).

Notwithstanding the variable winds of the night, when we awoke, as a result of the alarm clock going off at 0600, the winds looked light if not favourable. It was not to be, by 0630 we were motoring across the Paros – Andiparos gap with 30kt winds from the north. By the time we rounded the island of Dhespotico, the first point at which we could turn north towards Paros (Parikia) town the winds were 35kts gusting 40kts and the seas up to 4m high.It was an extremely lumpy, uncomfortable, passage and I am ashamed to say I decided we should motor all the way; we probably stayed drier and warmer this way, but it did nothing for my sailing pride! The batteries were grateful for the charge is all I can say in my defence! We arrived at 1430, anchored for a swim in the outer bay of the inlet, and settled to a lunch of hot, home-made, soup; not quite the normal diet when sailing in the Mediterranean but very gratefully received.

At 1800, after researching the non availability of a berth in the “marina” at Paros (it was crowded and already in two layers out from the jetty), we decided the better option was a night at anchor in the bay. Next morning it was time for Jason and Simon to make their escape; Jason back to UK via a ferry to Mykonos and flight from there; Simon by ferry back to his home in Athens. I accompanied them ashore with the dinghy, for a crew breakfast, we said our goodbyes and I set off for the local Carrefour to re-victual; I was potentially back to single handing again for a while!

Anchored in Rhinia, South Bay

In the event I delayed two days in the anchorage at Paros, to allow the wind and seas to subside, before heading back north to Rhinia and then Mykonos again to collect Christoph, the last joining crew of the season. 24 hours into this pause I had an SMS request from Yorgos telling me he had cancelled a planned trip to Bologna (Italy) and asking if he might join again for the last of the passage until we departed Greece; single handing was not to be!

From Paros we headed northwards, on the wind, to South Bay in Rhinia for one night at anchor. On arrival we found both arms of the bay occupied and chose to head into the eastern arm which seemed to offer more shelter. We ghosted past the anchored charter yacht (with German crew) and dropped anchor in the narrow entrance to the bay 60m ahead of them. Plenty of room to swing but they were unimpressed that we had squeezed in between them and the shallows of the bay itself. We received a hard stare for our trouble but following an uneventful night they were sociable enough as we left next day. That afternoon we sailed off the anchor, out of South Bay, and tacked up through the narrow Delos Channel (I never could resist a challenge!) followed by a close fetch across to Ormos Tourlos where we anchored in the bay just north of the Mykonos New Port. Next morning, after a leisurely start we headed to the southern end of the New Port and berthed in the marina for the last time this year. An hour later we had hired a car and were heading to airport to collect Christoph, visit the best supermarket on the island, and have lunch in Ano Mera which is the second largest town on the island. That night we visited the favourite spots in town and then, nursing our hangovers, set off next morning for a passage taking us south and then east, heading slowly back to our winter quarters in Marmaris.

More as we return to Turkish waters............

Sporades to Porto Rafti via the Gulf of Evia and Khalkis.

My prediction of a disturbed night was well founded. At about 0400 there was a wind shift to the east which brought the British registered sailing super-yacht into contact with a motor yacht which was well within his swinging circle. By judicious use of twin screws and powerful bow thrusters the managed to extricate himself from the restricted space he had chosen and proceeded to back up into the ferry turning area and anchor there. The net result of this was 5 short blasts (meaning “get out of my way!”) from the ferry that arrived an hour later. At this point common sense prevailed and they departed! I would not have wanted to be the “professional skipper” who brought about this debacle; his days in command may be numbered! In the meantime a French yacht had also departed the anchorage freeing up a much more appropriate space for the Spanish super yacht and they had wisely and silently moved into it, placing me well outside their swinging area. Deep sleep at last, with the exception that Mike was arriving at 0630 and needed to be plucked off the jetty using the dinghy; ah well, there is always tomorrow night...

Banana II, but not as I remember it.

That morning, leaving Mike to sleep off his overnight flight I set of into town to get victuals etc. Skiathos is not an ideal town for re-victualling; almost every shop sells tourist tat of one sort or another. Food shops are very few and far between and after the torrential downpour of the night before the streets were crowded with tourists, seeking somewhere to go in the continuing rain, and still awash with water and detritus from the drainage gulleys. An hour in town was long enough and with all the necessary victuals acquired I woke Michael and we set off for Banana II beach which looked as though it would be a sheltered anchorage in the prevailing NE wind. By 1430 we were anchored and enjoying the sunshine. There we stayed overnight and for the next 24 hours.

The following day we met up with three Italian speakers on the beach, and not being one to miss an opportunity to practise my Italian we invited them to join us for a circumnavigation of Skiathos the next day. Two of the guys, Luca and Marco were from Venice and the third, Filippo, was part Italian, part Greek which was to prove very useful later. Next morning we set off at 1100, using a northerly breeze, for a very enjoyable sail round the island. By 1630 we were anchored back at Banana II having covered 27 miles in total. Not everyone was pleased to see us! A lady (I call her that out of politeness only) soon swam out to complain that at 75m we were anchored too close to the beach. If we didn't “go away” she would call the Port Police (AKA Coastguard). No amount of Filippo's persuasion, in Greek, would succeed in making her be more reasonable. The Coastguard duly arrived and told us we were “breaking the law” by being so close to the beach. I questioned the origin of the law. One of the Coastguard officers replied “It is Greek law”, I was able to explain to him that it was not Greek Law but was in fact European Law adopted by Greece and because the law was so badly drafted it was unclear whether it applied at all in this case. It was intended to prevent power driven vessels operating near bathing beaches where they represent a severe risk to swimmers. Having undermined his confidence in his position he then became much more reasonable and, having inspected all my documents (in order to save face), we then agreed that, to keep the old woman quiet, we would move a further 50m off the beach. They departed, we moved and the old woman swam round the boat in circles for the next hour mouthing comments; it was not clear whether these referred to the ineffectiveness of the Coastguard (in her eyes) or our continued presence! Eventually she tired of it and departed.

Sunset at the anchorage at Nisos Pithou

In the course of the day Filippo had informed us that he was planning to depart for Athens in two days time and one option was via Volos. As Volos was on the agenda anyway we offered him a lift to Volos which quickly became all of us sailing across to Volos and then returning to Skiathos. With a northerly wind forecast for the next three days this was not going to be a problem, and so it was that the next morning we set off for Volos anchoring overnight at Nisos Pithou, a small uninhabited island just inside the Gulf of Volos.

Anchored in bay on west coast of Nisos Palaio Trikeri

The next day we said goodbye to Filippo, had a slightly questionable lunch on the waterfront (not a restaurant to be recommended), re-victualled, refuelled and re-watered the boat and then set off for the return leg to Skiathos stopping at an anchorage on Nisos Palaio Trikeri overnight.

Panormou, south bay, Skopelos

The next morning we exited the Gulf of Volos early and were on a brisk beam reach heading for Skiathos as the wind died and headed; in the end we decided that we would bypass Skiathos and head for Skopelos instead. Our guests were very happy to stay on an extra couple of days and Mike was keen to see Skopelos as well. In the end we finished the day in the delightful surroundings of the south bay at Panormou. Next morning dawned fair and bright but with little wind and so we motored round to the east beach at Stafilos passing a good two hours swimming and enjoying the sun before motoring round to Skopelos town to replenish with water and food.
So taken were the team with Skopelos town that we decided to stay the night there and make an early passage back to Skiathos next day. As a consequence we enjoyed an excellent lunch on the waterfront and a somewhat less successful dinner in the restaurant high above the town behind the church on the quay.

Next morning it was away early to motor to the northern tip of Skopelos, a beam reach from there to the SE of Skiathos and then a close reach along the south coast to Koukounaries beach where we finally

Skopelos town quay

said goodbye to our guests; they were flying back to Venice next day! Mike and I settled down for an early night and an even earlier departure next morning; westwards towards the Stenon Trikeri, Orei Channel and then into the northern part of the Gulf of Evia. Our intention had been to anchor for the night near the Nisos Likhades, at the very northern end of the gulf, but as we had made such good time and the anchorage was not that great we continued on down to Kopolos Atlantis, 15 miles further south. Unexpectedly the island Nisos Atlantis did not offer a suitable sheltered anchorage and so with dusk approaching we motored at full speed the 4 miles east to Ormos Ay Ioannis Theologos,

The crew at Skopelos

which was much more sheltered even if less secluded.

From here it was an easy 20 mile sail to Khalkis and a phone call to the Port Police at Khalkis informed us that the bridge would open at 2320 that night. As a consequence we spent a quiet afternoon at anchor just north of Khalkis and moved into the town quay waiting berths at 1700. By 1800 I had completed the formalities, paid my €42, and received my briefing from the Port Police. All we had to do now was wait. To pass some of the time we walked along to the Khalkis Yacht Club where we were very well received. An hour and two beers later we had been allocated a

Downwind towards Evia

berth and made several new friends amongst the membership. Supper at the Xalkos Meze Bar (excellent and highly recommended, halfway from the Yacht Club to the bridge and lying back from the waterfront) and it was back to the boat to await our call on VHF Ch 12.

In the waiting berths, north of the bridge at Khalkis

Sure enough at 2300 we were called by name and requested to get under-way and pass through the bridge.

Khalkis Bridge, no tides in the Med!

By midnight we were moored at the yacht club, assisted by members who had stayed late to await our arrival. We had decided to take a days pause at Khalkis to get victuals, find a laundry, replenish gas and try to get all the essentials sorted before heading on south.

Khalkis Bridge

With the assistance of the club secretary all of this was achieved in half the time it might otherwise have taken. The club really is the most hospitable Yacht Club I have ever visited! In return all they asked was a complimentary comment in their visitors book ! Such generosity.....

Khalkos meze bar

Supper was again taken in the Meze Bar (we were greeted like long lost friends, given a complementary carafe of wine whilst we decided what to eat, and the prices were very reasonable) and after a second night in a club berth, with our laundry returned, we set off at 1100 to head on into the southern half of the Gulf of Evia.

Khalkis Yacht Club, we couldn't get closer to the clubhouse!

Our plan was to head for Ormos Almiropotamou, a well sheltered anchorage, for the first night and then onwards to Nea Marmara for the second. The reason being we were due to pick up some friends, who live in Athens, for a weekend sail; from Nea Marmara, on the Saturday morning. Ormos Almiropotamou is not a densely populated place but it suffers more than most places I have seen from the blight of part finished buildings. 30% were empty cast concrete frames or evidently only part completed.

Approaching the new Khalkis road bridge

As it turned out we spent a very tranquil night in Ormos Almiropotamou and then motored in a flat calm to Nisos Stira for lunch the next day. The west side anchorage there was so lovely that we decided to spend the night there and accept an early start the next day. At 0830 on the Saturday morning we motored out of the southern entrance of the enclosed bay and headed for Nea Marmara in another flat calm!

Having plucked Simon and Nikos off the ferry jetty in Nea Marmara we motored out to the Petaloi Islands and anchored in the bay on the NW side of Nisos Xero for the rest of the day. There was no wind even if we wanted to have a sail! This bay is a beautiful bay and was not too crowded despite it being a weekend.

Ormos Almiropotamou

The following day we again had no wind but decided on a change of scenery and thus we headed southwards through the channel separating Nisos Megalo Petali from Nisos Zero; slightly nervously as it is charted at 3m depth and the last 3m channel I tried, in Turkey, had silted to less than 2m with the result that we spent an hour plus trying to re-float Kurukulla! The channel successfully navigated we headed for Ornos Likourimas, a bay on Evia Island proper, at the southern end of the Stenon Xero channel separating Nisos Xero from Evia. A pleasant anchorage and much less frequented than the islands.

Sunset at Nisos Stira

After a few hours here we decided to shorten the distance between us and Porto Rafti in the hope of some wind later in the day to sail the rest. Our prayers were answered. After motoring to Vasiliko on the south shore of Nisos Megalo Petali and an hour there swimming we were justly rewarded with a brisk wind for a beam reach all the way to Porto Rafti. 7 knots plus almost all the way. The only downside was that there was no berth available at Porto Rafti and so we put Simon and Nikos ashore by a touch and go on a fishing boat moored alongside and then Mike and I went out into the anchorage to anchor for the night and prepare the dinghy for taking him ashore at 0530 for his flight back to UK.

Ormos Likourimas

Not a great time or way to start the day but all was successfully completed and I settled down to await the arrival of another group of friends joining later that day.

The next leg takes us out into the Cyclades, wrestling with the Meltemi, so more when we are there.......

Thessaloniki to the Sporades

After an intense 36 hours in Thessaloniki, and with the new crew Michael embarked, we departed at 1100 on Friday 31^st of July heading for the anchorage at Ak Epanomi where we planned to spend the night. This time we headed for the eastern end of the beach which is slightly more sheltered but comes with a major fish trap on the 6m line! We avoided it without problem. The sail down from Thessaloniki was almost all downwind and offered another opportunity to give the spinnaker an airing. 4kts of wind over the deck and 4-5kts boat speed, it does make a difference!

Sunset off Ak Epanonomi

The next day we were destined to transit the Portas Canal, cut through the neck of the Kassandra Peninsula, to take us into the Gulf of Kassandra; a gulf I had yet to enter on either visit to this area. Heikell gives the clearance on the road bridge over the Portas Canal as 16m. With a masthead height of 15.6m and aerials, windex and instruments on top, this was not enough. Other sources on the internet gave the clearance as 17m. A phone call to the Port Police, responsible for the waterway, gave a figure of 16.5m, just enough, but this advice came with a warning that a boat had recently brought down the overhead power cables above the canal and were we to do the same we would be held liable!

Entering Portas canal

Overall we needed 16.2m clearance and so decided to give it a go. After a two and a half hour close reach down the coast we entered the canal, rolled up the genoa and proceeded under main alone for the first section, clearing the power cables by a small but sufficient margin.

Portas Canal, under mainsail only!

The bridge ahead looked daunting but as we approached the wind dropped to zero and we had to resort to the engine, perhaps no bad thing!

Will we?

In the event we cleared by what looked like 30 – 40 cm, enough but only just; close enough to elicit a scream from one of the girls on the canal bank! Michael thought he saw the VHF aerial touch but I was sure it had cleared.

Phew!

From here we headed out into the Gulf, under full sail, in very light winds; that is compared with the winds the other end of the half mile long canal. Eventually we had to resort to engine again, for short periods, in order to arrive in daylight at the anchorage just south of Nikitas where we planned to spend the night. It was a beautiful sandy bay, surrounded by camper vans at the back of the beach; we were not the only ones to have discovered it!

Waking to a light northerly breeze next morning we wasted no time getting under way and running downwind towards the headland, Ak Psevdhokavos, at the end of the middle peninsula, named Sinthonia. As the morning wore on so the wind became fickle and eventually settled in the south east blowing 25 – 30kts. With this potential headwind for rounding the headland we chickened out and headed for an anchorage just 500m from the headland and sought shelter for lunch! Priorities satisfied! By 1700 the wind had abated and we decided to try to find an anchorage on the eastern side of the headland, either in Ormos Mamba or further north in Ormos Sikias. In the event Ormos Mamba, although very attractive, proved untenable in the prevailing sea and so we settled for the SW corner of Ormos Sikias to pass a rather roly night, not so bad but certainly more swell than the last time I was here a week or so ago!

The anchorage at Ormos Kriftos, Nisis Dhiaparos

With another early start we set off North West to Panayia, which proved to be a brisk beat to windward away, or the first half anyway, the final hour we were forced to motor; needing to get in to allow sufficient time for Michael to arrange his transport to the airport for the next morning. I did the same manoeuvre as I had done with Nick a week or so earlier; dropped him on the jetty and stooged around until picking him up 20mins later. From here we adjourned to the anchorage at Ormos Kriftos, a delightful and perfectly sheltered anchorage on the northern end of Nisis Dhiaporos. Here we spent the afternoon before adjourning into Panayia again but this time securing alongside for the night and adjourning ashore for a splendid last meal before Michael's departure early next morning.

Harbour at Panayia

Following Michael's departure I returned to the anchorage at Kriftos to pass a few days undertaking maintenance and relaxing before the arrival of the next guest five days later. Sadly two of the nights were far from tranquil, the gods decided to put on a thunder and lightening show which kept all of us in the anchorage awake well into the small hours!

Sunset, Ormos Kriftos, Nisis Dhiaporos

With the next two visitors onboard we set off on the 10^th of August for a final night at Ormos Sikias before setting off early the next day for the Sporades and with the intention of heading for the anchorage at Planitis on Nisos Kira Panayia.

The passage across was faster than anticipated with a light but consistent NW wind until we were approaching the islands when the wind died completely and we were forced to resort to engine for the final hour. Not a bad transit overall though, 44 miles in 9.5 hours. The anchorage at Planitis is a delightful and very well protected one. The island only has one permanent resident and he is the monk who acts as caretaker on an otherwise deserted monastery. Later in the week we came back to the other large anchorage on the island, at Panayia, which is less protected than Planitis but enjoys better water quality being more open to the sea.

Departing Planitis, Kira Panayia

From here it was a sail to Alonnisos to drop off Andonis, one of the two Greek friends who had done the crossing with me and to pick up Andrew and Bruno, two friends from UK. With them onboard we spent the night in Patitiri, the port of Alonnisos, before re-victualling the next morning and then departing for a brief sail to Ornos Xero on the south side of Nisos Peristeri where we anchored for the night in a small but charming cove.

The next day was our second visit to Planitis, as mentioned above, and from there we were committed to returning to Patitiri next day to drop off Tom, the second Greek guest. This time it was literally in and out and we sailed round to the south side of Alonnisos, to Ornos Mourtia for the night. Although the wind stayed in the north the swell had other ideas and it was a less than settled night; c'est la vie! The occasional penalty for enjoying anchorages.

Departing Patitiri, Alonnisos

Given a slightly uncertain forecast for the next day, with winds from every direction forecast throughout the 24 hours, we decided to head for the anchorage at Ornos Vasiliko, on Nisos Peristeri, which proved to be much better than described in the pilot. A neat, clean bay, slightly obstructed by two laid up trawlers at the head but with ample room for anchoring and tying back along the north shore and well sheltered. Out night here was much more settled.

From here it was a detour into Skopelos for the next night for a meal ashore, water and victualling before almost circumnavigating the island to spend the night in the delightful anchorage at Panormos, surrounded by wooded hillsides and the smell of pine trees: another venue where tying back to the edge of the creek is all but essential.

Ormos Vasiliko, Nisos Peristeri

After Panormos we sailed up the channel between Skopelos and Skiathos to round the northern tip of Skiathos and head south to the bay called Banana II (or little Banana) a once unspoilt beach but now covered in sunbeds and umbrellas! A good bay to visit all the same. With the wind forecast to be consistently in the north for the next 5 days this was a safe enough place to spend the night even though it is completely open from W to SE through south. Needless to say the gods had other ideas and after a splendid afternoon and impressive sunset we were then treated to an unforecast thunderstorm that night and heavy rain all the following morning! Net result we had to move to Koukounaries, a bay sheltered from the NW which is just the other side of the headland and to the east of Banana.

After a quiet afteroon in Koukounaries we motored along the southern shore of Skiathos to reach Ormos Siferi, an anchorage sheltered from the N, and just to the west of Skiathos town. Although the majority of the night was relatively quiet, just the odd shower, the early morning produced some of the heaviest rain I have ever seen and that includes monsoons in the far east! This was combined with gusting winds. Several yachts in our vicinity dragged their anchors and had to re-anchor, some more than once. We were fortunate, the anchor was well dug in with plenty of scope and thus we stayed put throughout the storm. Andrew and Bruno were due to leave on the Saturday afternoon and so at mid day we motored the short distance into Skiathos harbour hoping that we might be able to get a berth stern to on the town quay. Not a chance! Packed to the limits and no one was moving. Even the charter yachts were berthed three deep out from the floating pontoon! It was to be the anchorage and the dinghy got its first outing of the year. The outboard engine started first time, not bad!

Sunset off Banana II beach, Skiathos

The crew having departed I settled down to a relaxing afternoon combined with a bit of clearing up. All went well until sunset when a second sailing “super-yacht” came in and anchored too close to the flight path onto the runway at Skiathos airport, the first “super-yacht” having arrived at 1800. The glide path passes over the harbour and anchoring in the approach area is forbidden. The crew of the second one could be heard marvelling at how close the aircraft were passing to their mast which was taller than the height of the approaching aircraft. Amazing how stupid people can be! Understandably this was followed by a rapid intervention by the Port Police who rightly required them both to move. What the Port Police had not reconed with was that both then made a rush to take any available space in the anchorage between the smaller yachts. These were both 40m+ length yachts, trying to anchor in spaces suited to 12m yachts. There followed a ballet in which both nearly collided and both then anchored in spaces far to restricted for their length. With minimal cable down it will be interesting to see if the forecast rain and wind produces chaos. I suspect it will! Unfortunately they are both just a boats length (Kurukulla measure) ahead of me and so even if I wanted to move I would have trouble getting my anchor out from under them! It is going to be an interesting night I fear!

Tomorrow another friend, Mike, joins via the flight arriving in Skiathos at 0630 so an early start. More when we get into the inland sea between the Greek mainland and Evia, on passage south.

Istanbul to Thessaloniki

After three weeks of doing the tourist track in Istanbul it was time to leave. Notwithstanding the occasional trip out to sea, either to anchor for a few days in the Princes Islands or to cruise the eastern end of the Sea of Marmara, after three separate visitors and three tours of the sights I had had enough; that said Istanbul is a fantastic city and I would leap at the chance to come back again but I fear it will be a few years before that happens.

Kurukulla alongside a trawler in Cakilkoy

We departed from Yalova marina a day later than planned to allow Jayson the opportunity to reach the boat easily without trekking around half of Turkey to join us. On departure we were three onboard with Stephen due to leave a day later. Our day of departure was brilliant sunshine but windless! In fact we motored much of the way from Yalova to Kakilkoy; a small, sleepy, fishing port some 50 miles west. On arrival it was evident that there were no med moor berths available for us, let alone alongside as a result we dropped Stephen on one of the fishing trawlers and left him to go research transport from Kakilkoy to Bandirma, from where he was to catch his ferry back to Istanbul the next morning. Within ten minutes he had found a suitable taxi and also agreed with the owner of the trawler, where we had dropped him off, that we could remain alongside all night; they were not going to sea; only later did we find out that none of the trawlers go to sea during Ramadan. At eight that night the taxi turned up to take him to the ferry port, the only minor problem was that he was not due to leave until eight the next morning!

Marmara north coast, one big marble hole in the ground.

Language difficulties. In the event the taxi driver pointed him in the direction of a dolmus (Minibus) which was due to leave for Bandirma at 0830 the next morning, a very generous gesture which cost the taxi driver money but saved it for Stephen.

Next morning Jayson and I waved him off and then set sail for the Pasalimani Islands to spend the next three days cruising the islands and doing a circumnavigation of the island of Marmara. After that it was a visit to Erdek again to re-victual and water and then a final night in the Pasalimani Islands before setting off west for the entrance to the Dardanelles.

Jayson at Pasalimani

Our passage from Pasalimani west was originally intended to take us to Karabiga but in the event we made such good speed downwind under “Solent Rig” (Genoa only) that we pressed on to Kemer, inside the Dardanelles, and anchored to the south of the harbour for a quiet night onboard before pressing on to Canakkale the next morning. The passage to Canakkale was rapid to say the least; with up to 4 kts of current assisting us and a 25 to 30kt north-easterly pushing us along we made the passage in record time.

Jayson and I taking a coffee at Erdek

By 1400 we were berthed in the marina and Jayson was preparing to depart for the backpacking part of his Turkish adventure.

My crew from Canakkale onwards was Nick who arrived at 0100 the following morning having flown in from Gatwick via Oslo and Istanbul, a tortuous flight but economic and all went well.

Pasalimani

The forecast for the next day was not good, N gusting 37kts plus and so we decided to spend the day victualling the boat, sightseeing in Canakkale, completing the exit formalities for Turkey and then to make an early departure the next day. For the exit formalities I decided to use an agent, he duly arrived and agreed a price of 200YTL for the task which would take him three hours; at 1500 he would have all the papers back with us and we would be free to leave at sunrise the next day.

Supper at Kemer

Suffice to say it was 1730 when the papers arrived back in the hands of an assistant, duly completed, and the price had strangely gone from 200YTL to €200, i.e. trebled! After a slightly heated debate we settled on €120, but I still felt as though I had been “ripped off” as our agreement had been quite clearly understood; they were trying to compensate for the additional time it had taken them but that was their bad judgement.

Next morning, at 0600, we set sail from Canakkale Marina and crossed the Dardanelles to the western side before sailing downwind, at 10kts (overground, by GPS),

Turkish memorial at Gallipoli

south westwards out of the Dardanelles past the Turkish and British memorials on the southern tip of the Gallipoli peninsula. From here it was a brisk reach 50 miles westwards to Limnos where we had decided to anchor for the first night just south Ak Mourtzeflos, the NW tip of the island.

So taken were we with this remote and unspoilt anchorage we stayed a second night before moving on to Mirina, the capital of the island, where we were due to enter Greece officially. Limnos is beautiful and I immediately fell in love with the island. Not overpopulated, nor crowded with tourists, but lively and full of character nonetheless.

Anchorage NW Limnos

On going stern to in the port of Mirina the first task was to enter Greece and the EU officially. A trip to the local Port Police achieved all of the bureaucratic actions in one fell swoop, never before have I had the pleasure of such efficient service, no running around three different offices and the young official who I dealt with knew all the latest rules, a real pleasure; but, the stamp needed to stamp my cruising permit was in use elsewhere and so I would have to come back at 2000 to collect the paperwork. No problem, after such good service it was a small price to pay. Sadly the same official was not present on my return; not only did his relief not want to give me back my paperwork, he had to summon a female colleague to interpret for him as he spoke little or no English.

Myrina, Limnos

His female colleague agreed that I should take my papers but then insisted that I come back the next day for an exit stamp, I explained that as an EU registered yacht I needed stamps on the permit only on entry and exit to Greece, or once per year if still in Greece. She disagreed and suggested that if I departed Mirina without a stamp she would call ahead to Thessaloniki and “cause trouble for me there”! I called back in the office next day and explained why I was not going to have my documents stamped before departure and the official on duty agreed that my understanding of the new rules was correct. I invited him to re-brief his colleague and suggest to her that “if you are unsure of the regulations it is better to stay quiet and have people think you are stupid than to open your mouth and prove it beyond all reasonable doubt”.

Mirina waterfront, Limnos

He smiled!

That afternoon the wind was blowing 20 to 25kts from the east, right along the line of the jetty to which we were berthed, all of the yachts were leaning against each other and it was not going to be long before someone's anchor dragged and the whole row of boats would find themselves grating against the jetty. We decided to get out before it happened and move round to the next bay south which was a large open bay with plenty of room to swing at anchor. After delaying until 1700 for the harbour office to open to enable us to pay our harbour dues (in fact, after waiting until 1715 and then consulting the Port Police, I was informed that man responsible for the harbour office had decided not to re-open again today as no new boats would arrive in these high winds; we were officially given a free stay!) we got underway.

Mirina castle, Limnos

Despite the surprise of our two neighbours, who thought it was too windy to leave harbour, we exited our berth without mishap and motored round to Ornos Plati arriving 30 minutes later. The anchor was somewhat reluctant to penetrate the weed, which was much more extensive than the pilot suggested, but after three attempts we got it to hold. Despite veering 50m of cable and being in only 8m depth it was not to last the night, At 2330, with the wind still rising, the anchor drag alarm went off and we had to reset the anchor in the pitch black. Successfully achieved, further towards the eastern end of the bay, and now with 60m of cable out, we settled down for the night. Next morning we were awoken by the coxswain of the rescue boat from the Mark Warner, Limnos Bay Hotel, water-sports centre informing us that we were in the middle of their sailing area.

Sun setting over Mount Athos, from Ormos Plati

He advised us it was not a problem for them but that we would have numerous sailing craft around us most of the day. In fact because of the wind strength it was to provide us with considerable entertainment throughout the day watching the various craft capsize and right themselves or be rescued. Because of the weather we, on the other hand, decided not to go round to Ormos Moudhrou, the bay from which the British Gallipoli campaign was waged and supported, but to leave for Khalkidhiki from Ormos Plati at daybreak the next morning.

The sail across to Mount Athos and into the Gulf of Singitik was a fast reach all the way, averaging 8 kts. Only after we turned into the gulf, south of Mount Athos, did we lose some of the wind and drop in speed. Soon after arriving in the Gulf we were challenged by a Coast-Guard RIB (I think they were going to complain about our attire, or lack of it; we rectified the problem before their arrival!).

Mount Athos

In the event, when they came alongside, they initially limited themselves to informing us that we were not allowed closer than 500m from the sacred shoreline (we were a mile offshore) after which a second, older member of the crew questioned our ensign, not believing it was a British ensign (Kurukulla wears blue ensign, not red, by virtue of my membership of the Royal Naval Sailing Association) that explained he then demanded to know where our Greek courtesy flag was, pointing at the RNSA burgee on the port halyard; there ensued another explanation that it was in the senior position on the starboard halyard, where tradition dictates it should be, and if he looked between the genoa and mainsail he would see it there! By this time his colleagues were sufficiently embarrassed by his lack of knowledge that they accelerated and turned away, before he could put his foot in his mouth again, giving us a cheery wave and a broad smile as they departed! Despite this brief interlude we had a very pleasant sail up the gulf to Nisos Amouliani, where we anchored in the bay on the western side for the night. I had anchored here in 2011 and knew it to be a pleasant, if touristy, spot.

Next morning, after breakfast and a leisurely swim we set off for the anchorage inside Nisis Dhiaporos, on the opposite side of the gulf.

Nisis Dhiaporos

It was a close fetch across and a great sail. On arrival we entered through the southern entrance into the sound between the island and the mainland shore and then chose a quiet and unspoilt anchorage on the island shore at Ormos Mesopanayia. A quiet night here was followed by motoring out next morning through the northern entrance and a brief visit to Panayia town, to get some fresh victuals, a useful stop and where there is now a small marina as well as the town quay. After sending Nick ashore, with me pottering about the bay, I picked him up again and we set off for Ormos Sikias, near the southern tip of the Sinthonia (middle) peninsula. After a beat to windward, the whole way, we entered the bay at Ormos Sikias at 1700 and anchored in the SW corner, in 5m on pure golden sand. Idyllic!

Athos in the early morning from Ormos Sikias

Next morning we watched the sun rise over mount Athos before taking a leisurely swim and then getting underway for the passage to Nea Skioni, the next destination. In the event the wind died away in the later part of the afternoon and as a consequence we anchored off the shoreline a mile or two short of the town, in a flat calm. It stayed that way for the rest of the night and most of the following day resulting in a frustrating days motoring to get to Ak Epanomi, where again we anchored off the vast sandy beach in a flat calm. The next day we had to be in Thessaloniki for Nick's departure early the following morning; the windless morning did not get the day off to a promising start however by 1400 a south-westerly breeze had established itself and by 1600 we were enjoying a great spinnaker run which took us all the way to Thessaloniki Marina.

Ormos Sikias

A great finish for Nick. It also served to remind me that I really must get a new spinnaker! This one still has the remains of the Italian sail number carried by Kurukulla when she was raced under her first name, Noefra. Anyone know of a good condition, second-hand, spinnaker, suited to a Grand Soleil 39, Swan 40, or similar which is available to purchase?

Arrival in Thessaloniki Marina was fairly easy but it has a quite run down air about it. Two thirds of the berths are empty. We tried two berths before finding a berth with holding off lines of sufficient length and the electric and water connections are looking very tired. That said the lady who is the office manager is a star and exceptionally helpful.

Anchorage just south of Skioni

The marina is run by the local council and is therefore low cost but it sticks to the regime of charging from midnight to midnight therefore for one night you have to pay for two days. This is laid down in the regulations governing town quays in some obscure piece government legislation but I have only seen it applied in two places, Mykonos Marina and Thessaloniki.

My major task whilst in Thessaloniki was to replace the three 100Ah domestic batteries which were failing rapidly.

My rather tired spinnaker

In Greece's second largest city you would think that might be easy. It was not, but I eventually succeeded with the assistance of “Marineshop” an exceedingly helpful chandler on the road just above the marina. €580 later it was all fixed! Not too bad.......

More when I leave.......