Down with one and up with the other.

NE end of Ornos Potamias; Camilla getting under-way.

Samothraki at dawn

Anit Limani light and the British (ANZAC) War Memorial

On Wednesday morning at 1000 I took advantage of the wind from the stern and sailed Kurukulla off the berth and out of Kallirakhis harbour. There followed a very pleasant 15 mile sail, taking me past Thasos town, to the NE end of Potomias bay; a delightful anchorage round the eastern side of the island. On arrival I put Kurukulla alongside Camilla who, because of the poor state of her batteries, had motored all the way and arrived earlier. The night was spent rafted up on Camilla's anchor and at 1000 next morning we got under-way for Samothraki, our last Greek island before entering Turkey. I departed first, under sail, leaving David to weigh anchor and follow on. Knowing his need to motor again (his batteries can barely sustain the domestic load of the fridge for a night!) he was soon to overtake me as I ghosted along in a very light NE breeze and flat sea. An hour or so later I also had to resort to the engine as the last of the wind died away to nothing. Eventually we teamed up again in the harbour at Kamariotissa on the island of Samothraki where we berthed just inside the new harbour wall along with a few other yachts waiting for a weather window to pass through the Dardanelles. Curry supper, early to bed and an 0600 start were the order of the day as we had 55 miles to do the next day to reach Canakkale, 12 miles up the Dardanelles. On departure two dolphins appeared briefly as if to wish us “good morning” us and send us on our way! The motoring start was soon surpassed by a building breeze and what developed into an excellent sail. Thus it was, as we passed between Samothraki (Gr) and Gokceada (T), again accompanied by dolphins; down came the Greek courtesy ensign for the first time in 10 weeks, and up went the Turkish.

Dodgems and the Turkish War Memorial

As we approached the entrance to the Dardanelles the wind started to increase significantly, as forecast, and it was down to a reefed main and several rolls in the genoa. Passing south of the ANZAC monument on the Gallipoli peninsula, I stowed the genoa and started the engine to facilitate crossing the shipping separation scheme; it was a matter of choosing your gap and going for it with five or six ships in view at any one time! Once on the Asian side of the straights it was a motor sail against wind and current but provided you kept to the edges in the shallower water reasonable progress could be made despite up to 3 knots of current against and 30 knots of contrary wind. Two and a half hours later, slightly damp but otherwise none the worst for the transit, we berthed, stern to, in Canakkale marina. With strong winds pushing onto the jetty this was almost the greatest challenge of the day! Next starts the bureaucratic nightmare of getting into Turkey. We were offered the services of an agent but at €350 for services that cost €150 we decided to decline the offer and do battle ourselves. It is rather like a form of treasure hunt.

Kurukulla and Camilla at Canakkale

First you need to find a source of the necessary documentation, called a transit log, these come from various shipping agents at 100TL (€44) a time. Once filled in (all 5 sheets!) you set off to find the Port Health Office to declare that you have no communicable diseases aboard and no one has died whilst on passage.

From there it is Immigration, which is five kilometres out of town, for an entry visa (€15 a head); next comes Customs, on the ferry quay in town, to confirm you are not running contraband; and the final stamp is from the Harbour Master to confirm you have paid your port dues! Each has to duly stamp and sign your transit log. Phew. Only a day wasted! At least we are now officially in Turkey. I now have to wait in peace for Mike and Melvin, my next crew, to arrive here on 12 July. The next challenge is the hunt for new batteries for Camilla. More when we leave.