One out, one in.

Southern Bay of Pserimos

From Kamares we motored out next day at mid-day in no wind but it was not to be for long. As we rounded the western end of Kos the wind started to fill in from the NW and after 10 minutes of indecision it settled into a steady 17 – 18 kts, not ideal for a short beat NNW between Cape Krikellos and Cape Dhafni but then it was a spectacular beam reach along the north coast of Kos, steady 7+ kts and relatively calm seas. By 1700 we were anchored in the southern bay of the island of Pserimos with 30 miles under our belt; enjoying an evening swim that was soon followed by a glass of wine, a swift chicken curry and a relatively early night.

Kurukulla anchored off.

Morning tea and a swim is the norm for Kurukulla but this morning was special. The water was so clear that you could see the bottom for a considerable distance around the boat. We passed the morning swimming around the boat and walking on the island in the vicinity of the anchorage; no company, other than goats, to be seen anywhere. After midday, given the absence of wind, we motored off towards Kos and anchored on the north coast, off one of the holiday beaches, for lunch. By 1500 the wind had started to fill in from the west and so we hoisted the genoa only (lazy sailing) and made our way round to Kos Marina where we refuelled, After successfully achieving that we anchored for the night about a mile south west of the marina off a relatively quiet beach with good holding and plenty of room to swing. The only downside was the wash of the occasional big ferry who was obviously running late and hurtling towards Kos port. It only happened twice and, even though they were a half mile away, they still set Kurukulla rolling onto her beam ends!

Kurukulla stern to in Kos under that Castle Walls

Tuesday morning dawned somewhat cloudy but with plenty of intervals of sun. We passed the first few hours swimming and relaxing before moving into the Old Port at Kos and mooring up for the changeover of crew. My nephew, Simon, out and my son, Daniel, in. In fact the same plane took Simon back to UK as delivered Daniel to Kos. The taxi drivers in Kos have a stranglehold on the traffic to and from the airport so buses are infrequent and timed NOT to meet the flights, Daniel was lucky enough to team up with two others and share a taxi otherwise it is €35 each way! He arrived onboard at 2100 and so we set off ashore for a bite to eat and a glass of wine in order to catch up with each other's news.

Daniel relaxing

Next morning, after a quick run to the supermarket, (the larger of which we found was closed due to a strike! For what? To prove the Greeks can live without food as well as money!), we set off for the eastern bay of Pserimos where we anchored inside the fish farms in a beautiful, almost deserted bay. The water was clear, if cold, and the holding good; which was just as well as we were to spend the next two days here sheltering from a westerly near gale. The weather was not great but we did manage the odd swim and a bit of work around the boat despite the rainstorms and deep grey cloud. Friday morning dawned with a rather more hopeful look and by early afternoon it had become a sunny day with scattered cloud. We therefore set off for Akti, on Kalymnos, another bay with several fish farms round the edge but plenty of room to anchor. A chilly dip and a very peaceful evening with “The King's Speech” as the film of the evening onboard.

Fish farms off Akti, Kalymnos

Kalymnos town square

Saturday morning we set off early to head into Kalymnos town, berthing on the town quay, (the marina described in Heikell's pilot remains a pipe dream!) to re-victual and take lunch ashore. That being done I then took this opportunity to publish the blog before departing to head north to Leros where Daniel will leave in three days time.

Father and son, lunch!