Pause at Mykonos.

Super Paradise as evening descends

Having suffered the disco over Sunday night I decided to move on to a quieter anchorage for the following two days and moved eastwards to Elia, the quietest of the major beaches along the south coast. It is also reportedly the windiest but with the winds light and variable this was not a problem. A friend, Stephen Catchpole, was due to join on the Wednesday, early afternoon, and so I sailed Kurukulla round to Mykonos Marina on the Wednesday morning. On arrival it was evident that the marina is no more complete than it was last year; if anything it has sunk further into decline. No power, water or holding off ropes (unless you are lucky enough to choose one of the few berths where they have survived). It was all funded by the EU but unlikely ever to be completed let alone provide a return on investment.

The only item that seems to have become marginally more efficient was fee collection, of which more later.

Mykonos by night

Mykonos town

On his arrival Stephen and I decided we would victual the boat and took a taxi to one of the largest supermarkets on the island where we bought most of the victuals needed for the week. We then went back to the boat and placed it all onboard before heading into Mykonos town for the evening. Today Mykonos has no other reason to exist beyond tourism, and it shows. The streets are overflowing with tourist tat or over priced designer goods. Add to that an endless supply of bars and restaurants and you have heaven or hell on earth, depending on your point of view. After a walk around the town we settled on a simple but good taverna selling “giros” (kebab) and local Mythos beer. This should have been all that was needed for a first night in town; however, we found ourselves drawn into several of the other bars and clubs before caching a taxi back to the boat. The late hour of our return onboard might have accounted for the hangover we both had the day after!

Next day we set off back to Elia and anchored there overnight before heading onwards to investigate the north coast the day after; something which is not possible once the Meltemi, north winds, set in at the end of June.

Kurukulla at Panormos

Panormos, a large north facing bay and a windsurfers paradise in mid summer, was an ideal anchorage in the gentle southerly winds that we experienced. An afternoon anchored there was followed by a sail along the remaining north coast and a second night in Mykonos Marina. Not surprisingly this was also accompanied by another, more restrained, visit to the town.

Alongside in Mykonos

As we sailed next morning I was somewhat surprised to be accosted by a “harbour official” who invited me to report to the Coastguard offices in Mykonos town and pay my harbour dues (the local office in the New Port was closed for a four day holiday). As we had already left the berth I declined to return but I did agree to pay, at the local office, on my return on Wednesday.

Sunset at Kormou Ammos

Kormou Ammos

From here we set off to circumnavigate Rinia and Delos. The first night was spent anchored in a delightful bay on the north coast of Rinia called Kormou Ammos, decidedly the best anchorage of the trip so far; golden sand and crystal clear water. From there we set off next day to complete the circumnavigation and to return to the south coast of Mykonos for the next night. The winds were westerly and as a result the spinnaker got its first airing of the season, We had a spectacular run all the way from Delos to Agrari entering the bay under spinnaker and anchoring under sail.

Under spinnaker

Next day Stephen's departure was looming hence we spent a relaxing day anchored off the beach and then set off set off at 1700 for the sail back to Mykonos town. We were alongside by 1900 and caught the 2010 bus into town (interestingly the bus timetable is chalked up on a chalkboard at the bus stop!). There we passed a very pleasant evening wining and dining in Mykonos before walking back to the boat at 0300.

Mykonos Old Port

Rather late next morning I visited the port authorities. Unlike other Harbour Offices, Mykonos Coastguard calculate what is due not by number of nights in port but by number of days (i.e. one night = two days). For Kurukulla this equates to €12 per day or €24 per night! There is a double multiplier in here as this is already double the cost of a visit elsewhere before applying the day night stupidity! Almost every other town quay / coastguard administered port is €5 per night for Kurukulla. Argument was destined to get me nowhere; according to the Mykonos Coastguard every other port in Greece has got it wrong! Eventually I paid up; at least last year I got a free berth here for a week!

After this saga we breakfasted at Mathew's Taverna. This establishment is right at the marina entrance and is to be recommended; friendly, helpful and good food. From here Stephen set off to the airport whilst I returned to Kurukulla via the local mini-market. I now had two days to await the arrival of my next guest, Melvin Parkinson. For these two days, with a northerly wind forecast, I returned to the beaches of the south coast; by now I was getting to know them well!

Self at Mykonos Old Port

My return to Mykonos Marina, two days later, was decidedly windy and lumpy motoring against a 25 knot northerly wind but by now the batteries needed a good charge, or at least that was my excuse for motoring! The same berth as I had used two days previously was still free and, just as I lined Kurukulla up for the alongside, a very helpful Swiss couple appeared from the boat astern and took my lines. After lunch I headed for the airport in a taxi to meet Melvyn and on the return journey we bought victuals for the next week. Double value from the taxi!

Anchored at Elia

That evening we went into Mykonos town for supper and to give Melvin a taste of the place as this was his first visit; another 0300ish night out! It seemed that Melvin had brought with him the first bout of the Meltemi (strong northerly winds) as the forecast was for N4 – 6 for the next three days. Back to shelter on the south coast! We anchored off Elia, this time with a long line ashore, and settled down to await the wind abating. Three hours later we were visited by a Coastguard patrol who informed us we were too close to the beach and needed to be a minimum of 200m out. They seemed less interested in our compliance than in making sure they were seen telling us, hence we waited until they were out of sight and did nothing. They never returned and we had a comfortable night!

Today the wind is, if anything, stronger; gusting up to 35kts. Hence we will stay put for the time being and await it abating; something that is forecast for tomorrow when we an expect a short period of southerly winds before the Meltemi returns again. More when we depart.