Eastwards towards Antalya.

Anchorage at Baba Adasi

Entering the channel south of Domuz Adasi

Departure from Marmaris was delayed slightly by a repair to a leaking gas spring in the boom vang. Eventually TMS made a temporary repair sufficient to tide me over until the end of the season and have promised to source the correct spring for my return in October. In the event I set sail from Yacht Marine at mid day on the 2^nd of August, heading for the anchorage inside the island at Baba Adasi some 21 miles away. In so doing I missed out several of the recommended calling spots along this stretch of coast but as I have to return in the autumn and potentially have next year as well (if I stay based at Marmaris) this did not seem too high a price to pay for catching up some lost time. The anchorage on the back of the island of Baba Adasi is an easy one and did not necessitate swimming lines ashore, there was plenty of room for all. The mainland shore is half a mile north, consisting of a large, shallow bay where there is a large holiday water-sports complex; it was never going to be tranquil but a pleasant spot all the same.

Tomb Bay

The following day we (Kurukulla and I for anyone confused by the “we”, I was single handed) sailed off the anchor and headed east again, across the bay towards Skopea Limani, A beautiful cruising ground on the doorstep of both Gocek and Fethiye. With light winds all day I spent much time ghosting along at 3-4 knots, at times better and other times frustratingly even slower. The final challenge was tacking through the narrow channel south of Domuz Adasi to enter the enclosed sea of Skopea Limani. This was going to be a broad reach through if the wind had held, but no; this is the Mediterranean, hence it was a series of short tacks in light winds much to the amusement of some of the power boats who kindly waited for me to clear the channel. There was not much room to pass in a channel 60m wide and a 12m yacht tacking through single handed! Once through I headed for Tomb Bay, which seemed to offer the best possibility of an easy anchorage, it being less crowded. As the sun was setting we dropped the anchor near the shore and I then swam the line in and tied Kurukulla back to the rocks, amidst several offers of help from adjacent boats but fortunately none was needed.

Boynuz Buku

Next day after a lazy start and a leisurely swim we set off for Yassica Adalari, a small group of islands only 3 miles away. Being lazy, and it being flat calm I motored! I headed into the northern bay preceded by another slightly larger yacht who headed for the best anchorage spot available, a small bay on the western side of the anchorage. To my good fortune he decided to change his mind and head back out again and into the more southerly part of the anchorage leaving me a clear run in. Some minutes later I was standing on the shore, tying Kurukulla back to a tree, when I realised to my slight embarrassment that they had returned, they seemed un-phased by the sight of a naked man swimming back to his boat however. In fact they anchored close under my bow and immediately invited me onboard for a beer; my type of people! It turned out they were an Israeli family who kept their boat in Fethiye, husband, wife, daughter, wife's sister and her friend. We spent the rest of the afternoon talking and all went for a walk to the summit of the island. After which they very kindly invited me to join them for supper onboard, only one slight snag they were going to Boynuz Buku for the night and not staying put. After a microseconds deliberation I agreed to join them and we set off on the two mile passage across. The bay was somewhat more crowded than expected but we still managed to get decent anchorages for the two boats and spaghetti al tonno was served almost immediately followed by a trip ashore to the local restaurant for coffee and chasers. And I had been all set for a quiet night! At the end of it all they kindly dropped me back to Kurukulla, stopped for a swift whisky and then we parted company. I set off early next morning for Kalkan.

Yoruk restaurant, Polemos Buku

The next day dawned with a gentle breeze, just enough to convince me to put al the sails up, half an hour later it faded away and that was it. From there on we motored on, in a still calm, all the way to Kalcan; some 42 miles of boredom. At Kalcan I anchored in Yesilkoy Koyu, an open bay to the west of the town and dived in for a cooling and desperately needed swim! The temperature during the day had reached mid 40's! My neighbour was the most ostentatious looking, gold coloured, motor yacht I have ever seen. A most amazing example of bad taste but somebody must like it to have spent that much on it!

Turtles at Polemos Buku

Sarcophagi at Aperlai

View of Polemos Buku from behind the Restaurants

From Kalkan it was another reasonably early start, in dying onshore breeze again, followed by another windless day of motoring. By now I was wishing I was back in the Cyclades with the Meltemi! Nonetheless by 1800 we were motoring into Kekova Roads and I chose Polemos Buku for the first night anchorage, intending to stay two days in the area. This proved to be the best choice of the trip so far. A large, secure anchorage, on mud, in 4m of water and with two turtles and one other yacht for company! I quickly jumped in for a swim (having first checked the turtles were not too close, they bite!) then settled down for supper and an early night. Next day I inflated the dinghy for the first time this season, just a bit too far to swim to the landing stage, and set off ashore, rowing! Notwithstanding a full overhaul by TMS the outboard steadfastly refused to start! I landed at the Yoruk restaurant landing stage, very rickety, and stopped for a small beer, chatting to the owner's nephew, before heading across the isthmus to the ancient, semi submerged city of Aperlai. Aperlai is amazing, not many buildings still standing; however, I have never seen so many sarcophagi in one place, ever. Some broken, others submerged but a significant number intact but for where an access hole has been made by grave robbers. On my return to the restaurant I stopped again for a chat and was invited to join them for a fish supper that night. I promised to supply the whisky! In the course of the evening I discovered that the owner's wife had died in the recent past and his nephew had come to assist in the running of the place. He himself had a small market garden business, a wife and a seriously epileptic son who his wife spent most of her day looking after. Life was certainly hard for them, even more so because the bottom had dropped out of the vegetable export market into the EU. Notwithstanding I was not allowed to pay for the generous helping of fish served, only for the wine I had consumed.

Cinivex Limani at sunset

The following morning it was an early start and a motor up through Kekova Roads, passing another submerged city on the shores of Kekova Island opposite Kale Koy harbour, one to visit next time. Shortly before arriving here we had a close shave with a tourist gullet, who decided to turn to port, across my bows (giving him no rights whatsoever) at yards range. We missed, but only by feet! I can only assume he had just not seen me, he certainly heard me, so did his passengers! That night we anchored in Cineviz Limani, A bay 40 miles south of Antalya. Here there were two other boats but plenty of room near the beach. A late evening swim and early bed after a boring day, mostly motoring.

Arriving at Antalya old port.

Kurukulla in Celebi Marina

Next day was also a long day of motoring passing close offshore of the ancient cities of Olympus and Phaselis so at least there was something to look at and enjoy. By 1700 I was entering the old port at Antalya, only to be greeted with the news that there was no room in the port for me! No amount of negotiation was going to change the harbour-masters point of view and so it was a tactical withdrawal and a four mile slog over to Antalya, Celebi Marina. Very much less picturesque and very much more expensive I suspect. For Kurukulla it was €60 per night! Here I was to stay for the next two days awaiting the arrival of the next group of friends, arriving Saturday night around 2200.

More when we leave......

Antalya old town

Antalya old harbour from above