 |
| Zakynthos to Preveza |
After
collecting Mike from the airport and a day in Zakynthos town we set
off north towards Ay Nikolaos, the most northerly overnight anchorage
on the island. En route we anchored for lunch and a swim off the
beach at Alykanas enjoying a leisurely three hour lunch-break. By the
time of our departure the wind had moved to NW and thus we set off on
a brisk beat for the last 5 miles.
At Ag Nikolaos we found the
anchorage crowded and the only available spot was near the northern
entrance where we squeezed ourselves in just clear of the fairway
used by the ferries to the mainland. Not 5 minutes later a RIB turned
up alongside carrying a young guy who warned us of the arrival of the
ferry at 0800 next morning (as we were planning to leave at 0500 this
was not a problem for us) and advising us that if we wanted to go
stern to on the tourist boats on the small jetty he could offer us
free electricity and water! It was obviously a move designed to
entice us into the adjacent restaurant, which his family also just
happened to own. It worked! Five minutes later we anchored for a
second time and backed up to the stern of the moored tripper boats
where he was waiting to help us secure.
 |
| Zakynthos waterfront |
Good to his word power and
water were swiftly provided and in exchange we reserved a waterfront
table at the restaurant. The only problem was the obstacle course
needed to get ashore involving scrambling across not one but three
tripper boats. It was worth it; the food was good.
Next
morning we slid out at 0500 to head for “Wreck Beach” on NW
Zakynthos, the most popular postcard in Greece outside Athens. Sadly
despite the flat calm of our departure, as we rounded the northern
tip of the island we encountered the remains of the NW swell left by
the winds of the day before. Not to be deterred we pressed on to the
beach but the conditions were such that only a brief in and out visit
was possible. The seas were large enough that anchoring was
impossible! At least the crew could say they had been there. From
here we set off northwards towards Kefalonia or Ithaca; which of the
two was to be decided later.
This whole
period was intended to be a quiet cruise northward which Mike could
enjoy; he is not one for adventurous sailing, nor lumpy seas! For
this reason we trickled north visiting first Ornos Pera Pigadhi, on
Ithaca, where we discovered we had chosen the same anchorage as the
“Sailing Holidays” group charter fleet. We anchored well clear on
the southern end of the bay, tied back to the rocks, and then looked
on with amusement as the wind increased (offshore fortunately) and
the antics started.
 |
| Anchored in "watersports bay" near Frikes |
First one and then several of the anchored
charter yachts dragged their anchor and disappeared off towards the
horizon only later to be rescued and re-anchored by the charter
leader and his crew. Fortunately none of them dragged across our
anchor cable, nor that of our nearest neighbour, a beautiful, blue
hulled, 54ft Beneteau, and they were all recovered in time for the
beach BBQ their leaders had planned!
Next
morning we watched the circus depart and then slipped our shore
ropes, hoisted the mainsail and sailed off the anchor passing between
the tiny island of Pera Pigadhi and the main island of Ithaca before
heading north to the anchorage just outside Frikes where a now
deserted boat is the only remaining relic of the windsurfing school
that used to be here. On arrival we tied back to the rocks finding
ourselves again in company with our nearest neighbour of the night
before. Here we spent a quiet night before moving in to an alongside
berth in Frikes the morning after. The day was spent relaxing in
town, watering ship, procuring some victuals and enjoying an
excellent lunch at one of the several beach-front tavernas.
 |
| Berthed in Frikes harbour |
By late
afternoon it was time to depart and we motored out of the harbour and
around to Ag Nikolaou, a small bay just to the north of Frikes where
we backed in, tied back and settled for the evening. In the centre of
the bay was an extremely good looking 25m motor launch by the name of
Bel Ami. She seemed based on an MTB or small minesweeper hull but in
fact we found out later she was French built and based on a customs
cutter. The following morning, much to our surprise we received a
visit from one of the owners/guests who had instructed the crew to
bring back fresh bread from town that morning and had included in
their order croissants for us as well! She insisted on delivering
them herself, very kind and totally unexpected. Some hours later we
were joined by the other type of power boat, an Italian registered
plastic fashion statement with booming music and bathing beauties
adorning the deck; we rapidly departed, following close on the stern
of Bel Ami who had made a similar decision!
 |
| Port Leone in Kalamos |
From here
we paid a visit to Port Leone in Kalamos, our anchorage for the
following night; a fascinating deserted village which lost it's water
supply in the 1956 earthquake and was abandoned. There are signs of
some reconstruction starting, initially with the church of course,
however not all locals are supportive as we found out from a Greek
American couple who we met in the church and who had returned to see
what their contribution to the reconstruction of the church had
achieved; on their return they discovered that someone had
misappropriated the ruins of their former family home! From here we
sailed sedately round to Episcopi on the north west coast for a
relaxed lunch and then on to Ormos Obelike in Meganisi for the
following night. Our first attempt at finding ourselves a quiet
anchorage for the night failed when we realised that the bay we had
chosen was not sand as we thought but flat rock and useless holding.
 |
| Berthed in Vathi, Meganissi |
As a result we had to start the engine and move to a bay further in
where, after the departure of several small motorboats, we had the
bay almost to ourselves. After a night tied back and at anchor we
moved late next day into the harbour at Vathi, to get fresh bread and
victuals before sailing out again and heading for the southern end of
the Levkas Canal. Our plan was to anchor at Ak Kefali for the night
with a transit of the canal in the afternoon of the following day.
This achieved we were in the Levkas Marina by 1700 the next day ready
to dine ashore in “Eu Zin” (Greek for Live Well) an excellent
restaurant I had found on my previous visit situated in the side
streets of old Levkas. Next morning we had breakfast in the marina
cafe (it did not compare with the food of the previous night!) and
set off for a supermarket victualling trip. By 1500 we were ready to
leave in time to catch the 1530 bridge opening. Unbeknown to us the
bridge was out of action for maintenance and in it's place a RoRo
ferry had been drafted in to provide a bridge deck between island and
mainland which could self manoeuvre to open the channel every 90
minutes (not every hour as the bridge usually does; hence the
slightly modified opening times). After loitering for 20 minutes the
ferry duly moved out of the way and we were through and on our way to
Preveza, an hour and a half sailing away. I am pleased to say that we
were one of five yachts to head for Preveza, the first to make sail
and the first to sail into the dredged channel into Preveza. Not bad
for a 28 year old 39 footer.
 |
| Waterfront at Preveza |
After entering the inland sea at Preveza
we headed for the isolated anchorage in the Nisos Vouvelos where much
to our surprise we found another yacht in the bay we intended to
occupy, it is normally deserted. Fortunately there is room for two
and we ghosted in under mainsail, in water 2.5 – 3m deep, slightly
nerve-racking, and anchored for the night. Next morning we sailed
across to Vonitsa for the following night and next morning departed
from here to sail to Preveza Town quay for a meal ashore to celebrate
Mike's final night. Mike left by taxi next morning for the airport
and we departed for Italy; but before we could depart there was the
now obligatory battle with the Hellenic Port Police over how many
stamps were required on Kurukulla's cruising permit. We eventually
agreed on a compromise and departed Greece legally!
 |
| Preveza to Rocella Ionica |
The
forecast was for NW F5 winds going N as we progressed northwards. For
this reason we did a long tack to seaward out of Preveza and then put
Kurukulla on port tack to head north. Needless to say the winds went
northwards early and the F5 was F6-7. By the time we had Paxos abeam
we had had enough and put into the anchorage outside Gaios in Paxos
for a few hours rest just a darkness fell. By 2200 we were securely
anchored, fed and in bed ready for an 0500 departure.
 |
| En route Preveza to Paxos |
The next
joining crew member, Matt, was due to join us in Santa Maria di Leuca
in 18 hours time. It was not to be! We motored to the north end of
Paxos before setting the mainsail with one reef and the No2 genoa
with four rolls. Six hours later we had three reefs in the mainsail
and the genoa rolled up to a pocket handkerchief, still doing 5-6
knots to windward. As the seas got bigger the passage got wetter,
that is until we dropped off a crest of a wave, to be greeted by the
next breaking crest dropping on top of us. The spray hood self folded
enveloping a rather surprised Yorgos inside it and we took a cockpit
full of water which drained over the next few minutes. Fortunately
not much water made it down below.
 |
| Paxos to Santa Maria di Leucca |
By 0100 next morning we had Santa
Maria di Leuca on the beam but 20 miles to windward. Using a mobile
phone we had managed to instruct Matt to find a room for the night
and join us next morning. It was to be another four hours sailing
before we anchored just outside the harbour entrance for a well
deserved rest.
At 1000 we
motored into the harbour to be greeted by Matt holding fresh bread
and fruit, both exceptionally welcome! The next thirty six hours were
spent sorting ourselves out and getting ready for the next leg across
the Gulf of Taranto. After 36 hours in the marina we motored out and
anchored off of the beach, 5 miles to the west, in preparation for an
early departure next morning.
 |
| Sta Maria di Leucca at sunset |
At 0500 we
were on our way again, motoring gently off the anchor (we were
anchored in the midst of a rocky plateau of variable depths, not a
great anchorage despite the sandy looking beach) and once in deeper
water set the mainsail and genoa to motor-sail for the coming three
hours. By late morning the wind had filled in and we had a gentle
reach across to Le Castella our intended next stop. The marina here
is in the old quarry from which it is believed the stone came to
build the castle, the only minor problem is they didn't dig enough
out; the entrance is only 2m deep, not enough for Kurukulla. There
was an alternative however, the fishing harbour where, according to
the pilot, it is possible for yachts to use the outer end of the
mole. Thus it was we gently edged into the fishing harbour at 1730
that afternoon, to be greeted by the fishing fleet who had all
decided to berth on the deep water berths and leave the shallower
berths empty.. i.e. no suitable berth for us and no invitation to lie
alongside.
 |
| The beach at Rocella Ionica |
As a result we were forced to accept to anchoring in the
bay; fortunately the weather was calm and no wind was forecast
overnight. Not a place I will be coming back to however!
Next
morning it was another relatively early start for the passage to
Rocella Ionica, the furthest west marina on the sole of Italy. A
relatively gentle sail along the coast, including giving the
spinnaker an airing, had us anchored off the beach to the east of the
marina for a late lunch at 1500 and entering the marina at 1800 after
a swim and relax. The entrance to Rocella Ionica marina is renowned
for silting and it is necessary to take a detour around the sand bank
extending west from the end of the outer mole; this we did but even
so we managed to touch bottom in the middle of the inner entrance, it
is badly silted in this area and necessary to stay very close (almost
too close for comfort) to the northern breakwater on entering; there
is 4m near the breakwater but it shallows very quickly if you drift
towards the arm sticking out from the southern breakwater, i.e. the
one that forms the narrowest part of the entrance.
 |
| Rocella Ionica to Malta |
Once safely in we
were met by a cheery crowd of “Marinaios” who were, I suspect,
ready to come to our rescue had we got stuck. Thankfully help was not
needed and we berthed alongside, on a finger pier for a change, and
set about preparations for the evening. The waterfront restaurant we
chose, halfway between the marina and the station was not a good
choice, very average food and noisy. C'est la vie!
Next
morning we spent the first half of the day playing the tourist in
Rocella, my getting a haircut and the others buying victuals, before
we departed the marina for a quiet afternoon relaxing and night at
anchor off the beach we had used on our arrival. 0500 next morning
saw us on our way again but this time to Taormina, in Sicily where
Stephen and Raimund, our next crew, were to join.
Taormina
is a delightful town, perched on the cliffs high above the sea but
lacks one basic facility, a jetty at which you can embark people. For
that reason we had to pluck the joining crew off the rocks, near the
railway station, where they were due to have arrived; that is if
there hadn't been a rail strike!
 |
| The anchorage at Taormina |
As it was they had arrived by bus
and been disembarked two miles down the coast! Both claimed to have
enjoyed the walk!
Being at
anchor in a relatively crowded and open anchorage we took it in turns
to go ashore in groups to do the tourist bit and by 1400 next day we
were Taormina'd out. It was time to leave the tourists behind and
head for Catania.
Fortunately we were able to re book a berth in the
Yacht Club at Catania and arrived just as the sun was setting, having
enjoyed a great spinnaker run almost all the way. That night we
enjoyed an excellent meal in “Il Vecchio Bastione”, a restaurant
near the No 1 port gate.  |
| The best bay at Taormina but anchoring is banned! |
 |
| Catania Cathedral |
As planned
we sailed off the anchor at 0930 and set off for Portopalo, an
uninspiring fishing port on the southern tip of Sicily. This was to
be our set off point for the crossing to Malta. The sail proved to be
part spinnaker run and part reach, nothing energetic and very
enjoyable. By 1830 we were snugly settled in the western half of
Portopalo harbour, enjoying an evening swim, soon followed by a G&T
and supper. It was to be an early night in preparation for another
0500 departure.
At 0445
the alarms went off and we set sail for the crossing to Malta. The
first three hours were windless and boring, motoring along at 6kts.
 |
| Syracusa waterfront |
Fortunately at this point the wind came up and we were able to make
sail for the remainder of the crossing. At 1630 we called Valletta
Port Control to inform them of our arrival and by 1730 we were
berthing in Msida Marina on the Ta'Xbiex waterfront. Here we were to
stay for the next three nights whilst exploring the delights of
Malta. Tours of Valletta, a hire car to go to Mdina and the northern
part of the island and then a final day victualling and sorting out
admin before departing for a circumnavigation of Malta. We departed
Msida on the Tuesday afternoon, spent the night in St Paul's Bay,
anchored almost under the statue of St Paul before sailing off the
anchor to head round the north end of the island and down the west
coast.
 |
| Syracusa |
For lunch and a swim we stopped in Gnejna Bay where the
shelter from the westerly swell was best, (the winds were light NW)
before continuing down the west coast, round past the port of
Marsaxlokk and back to Valletta for a final night in Msida Marina. It
was from here, the next morning at 0500, that Yorgos was to depart
back to Greece and we, somewhat later, were to set off for Gozo.
After an
early morning round of goodbyes and a mid morning trip to the
supermarket we decided to delay departure for a final lunch in Malta
at the Yacht Cafe (good but slightly expensive Tapas), situated near
the “Black Pearl” an old Baltic Trader now used as a waterfront
restaurant and a clear landmark at the entrance to Ta'Xbiex
waterfront.
 |
| Aproaching Valletta |
By 1430 we were ready to set sail and after a quick look
at the weather forecast we decided to opt for one or two nights at
anchor in Anchor Bay before crossing to Gozo. The weather forecast
for the crossing back to Italy was not good for the next four days
and so, as we planned to spend only two days there, we were in no
hurry to get to Gozo. 36 hours at anchor seemed to pass extremely
quickly and some maintenance got done before, on Saturday morning, we
set off on a brisk beat to Mgarr, the marina in Gozo. Our plan was to
spend day one looking around Victora, the capital of Gozo, and then
hire a car on day two in order to tour the island.
 |
| The entrance to the old Maltese capital, Mdina |
By 2200 Sunday
night we had driven almost every road in Gozo, the car had been
returned, supper had been served onboard and we were ready for an
early departure the next morning.
By 0700 we
were slipping our moorings and setting sail northwards for Ragussa
Marina on the south coast of Sicily. More once we are on the coast of
Sicily.......
 |
| Mgarr harbour, Gozo |
No comments:
Post a Comment