From Ios it is eastwards........

Ios chora by night

Kurukulla at Ormos Nero

Saturday night was spent in the chora of Ios, a place that last time I was here, some 12 years ago, was awash with young people, mostly the worse for drink, and all apparently having a great time. This time it was like a ghost town. A few bars and restaurants open but none doing anything like a good trade and very few tourists to be seen. Greece is in real trouble as a tourist destination. All traders talk of takings being down between 40 and 70%, and if they are prepared to admit to that what must the truth be? Mike and I enjoyed a gyros for supper washed down by a few glasses of wine in one of the more tranquil bars. From there it was a walk back to the port, downhill fortunately, and a tranquil night onboard.

Katapola at sunset

Next morning we breakfasted in a local bar, procured some fresh victuals and sailed for Ormos Nero, my favourite beach. As we approached a tourist boat just managed to beat us into the bay which was rather off putting as we were expecting to have the place to ourselves, fortunately there were few people onboard and no loud disco music so life was not made unpleasant and they sailed late afternoon back to Ios leaving us in solitude.

Lunch in Katapola

Monday morning we sailed early-ish to head round the south of Ios and over to Amorgos. The first stretch was frustratingly slow with the wind coming from all and every direction and very light; however, as soon as we were clear of the south of the island we picked up the NW wind as forecast and had an invigorating sail across the 20 or so miles separating the two islands. As we approached Amorgos the wind got up considerably, resulting in us putting two reefs in both main and genoa but sure enough, as soon as we had finished this evolution it died away again leaving a foul sea and too little wind to punch our way through it at any speed (The joys of Mediterranean sailing!).

We finally arrived in the anchorage on the north side of Ormos Katapola at 1900 wet and somewhat weary; nothing that a glass or two of wine and some nibbles could not sort out though.

Katapola waterfront

Next morning we waited until a few of the boats from the town quay had been seen to leave and then upped anchor and motored over to Katapola town where we berthed stern to for lunch and a shopping spree. Lunch was a giros (again) and local beer and the shopping spree saw us re-victualled with enough food to see us out to the end of Mike's visit.

On completion we set sail for Ormos Kalotiri, an anchorage on the inside of the island of Nikouria, on the NW facing coast of Amorgos. It is a splendid anchorage and well protected from the N winds despite being on the windward coast of Amorgos.

Anchorage at  Nikouria

Exiting the sound at Nokouria

From here it was a sail off the anchor next morning and a ghost through the narrow exit at the north end of the sound, after which the wind died away to nothing. We were forced to motor for an hour, in rolling seas, to reach the northern tip of Amorgos; here the wind picked up and we then broad reached down the NE side of the island and all the way to Vathi, an inland sea in the NE of the island of Astipalaia. If anything the entrance to Vathi was even more challenging than our departure from Nikouria with very light winds coming from all directions and only 50m wide at its narrowest: 10 minutes later; however, we were through and beam reaching the half mile across the flat water to our chosen anchorage. A wonderfully protected haven with extremely warm, if not very clear, water.

Departing Vathi

Next day was Mike's last day at sea and we had only to sail from the north side to the south of Astipalaia. In the course of this we were on all points of sailing, a beat in 15 knots of wind to escape the bay on the north side of Astipalaia followed by a broad reach / run down the east side of the island and then a beam reach across the south side. We decided to stop in the anchorage at Ormos Agrilithi, a narrow-ish inlet on the south coast with two beautiful anchorages at its head. Three hours here and it was off under engine to cover the three miles to Skala, the main town of Astipalaia.

Skala harbour, Astipalaia

On arrival we were pleased to observe that many of the berths on the inside of the quay were apparently free and so we set to to prepare for berthing stern to in one of them. As we rounded the end of the pier our plans were destroyed, the berths were roped off and the quay was obviously in a state of collapse, (badly built, with several million Euros of EU money, only a few years back and never maintained!). Not to be deterred we selected a berth across the bows of a catamaran which put us just in the closed off area but near enough to legal that we thought we would get away with it. It took the Port Police 5 minutes to arrive! After a bit of “sweet talking” and discussing the state of the jetty this year compared with last (making it obvious we were not a one off visitor) he agreed to us staying put. Only next day when I went to pay the harbour dues, and joked about getting a discount because of the condition of the jetty, did he raise the question of giving me a ticket instead for ignoring the closure notice! He was joking... I think!

And we thought the jetty was bad last year!

The owners of the catamaran, were a New Zealand couple and they very kindly invited Mike and I plus another British couple (coincidentally a member of the Army Sailing Association) for drinks onboard following which we all decanted ashore for a very convivial meal in a local restaurant. Next morning Mike booked himself into a local hotel for the night before his flight back and I set off single handed again for the Island of Kos where the next group of friends are due to join. I arranged for them to join in Ormos Kamares, an anchorage visited earlier in the trip, which is nearest to Astipalaia and also convenient to Kos airport. The 30 mile crossing was boisterous at start and finish but unexpectedly calm as I approached the southern tip of Kos, all in a days sailing!

Ormos Kamares, Kos

For simplicity I anchored in the bay last night and this morning put Kurukulla stern to the jetty to await the new teams arrival this evening. An interesting manoeuvre single handed but fortunately a local took a line for me as I backed up to the jetty, into wind. Lunch in a local taverna was followed by an afternoon of picture editing and blog writing.............

A relaxing lunch.......

More in a week or so..........

Southward bound.

Storm damage from Mykonos!

Mike Owens arrived as planned and I collected him from the airport in the hired 4WD. A short stop at the best supermarket we could find ensured that we were ready to depart next day and after putting all of our acquisitions, plus Mike's kit onboard, we set off for a final road tour of the island! Next day we were sailing gales or no gales!

After being pinned down in Mykonos by the force 6-8 winds, gusting up to storm force 10, for almost two weeks it was a pleasure to escape the sand blasting of the marina and head round to the southern beaches to shelter there. Time to clean the boat up, a two day task in itself! Kurukulla looked as though she had been in the Sahara Desert but no permanent damage except to the flags, all three looked much the worse for wear after their experience!

The nearest Kurukulla came to serious damage whilst in the marina was when an arriving charter yacht did a “hand-brake turn” into the basin where we were berthed and then, on trying to go astern, realised he had absolutely no astern power whatsoever; a diver recovered his propeller from the bottom of the basin two days later, the retaining nut was never found! Fortunately he had a reactive crew who fended off well and prevented him “T boning” me on Kurukulla's starboard side; we came out unscathed.

Having escaped the marina Mike got his first soaking of the trip on the way southwards! After an hour we anchored off, and tied back to the rocks with long lines, in the now familiar spot on Elia Beach. We had become a regular feature there and almost become part of the scenery; even featuring in the water colours of a visiting French artist Roland Gilles. The day before our departure a charter yacht came in to anchor for the night, anchoring about 50m from us. The crew swam ashore and I introduced myself to one of them who completely left me dumbfounded when he introduced himself and called me by name, he had been reading the blog!

Approaching Sifnos in a flat calm

On Monday 25^th of June we left Mykonos for the last time this season and headed downwind, in a force 8, for Dhespotico; it is a very small island off the west coast of Paros with a well sheltered and secluded bay on the south side. An hour away from Mykonos and the wind started to subside, an hour later and there was no wind! This is Mediterranean sailing at its worst, no wind and a horrid, lumpy sea. Two hours later we motored into the bay, anchored and immediately dived in for a swim to wash off the salt spray.

The lunchtime anchorage

In amongst the fishermen

Next morning dawned with bright sunshine but very little wind, our choice was an early start and a drift to one of the local islands or another day of motoring. We decided to head for Faros on Sifnos, a small town on the eastern end of the island with three anchorages nearby and a small town quay. We sailed off the anchor but an hour later we were becalmed and motoring along at six knots. Two miles short of Sifnos we were joined by a school of three dolphins who played under the bow for a few minutes before heading off in the other direction, It is always such a pleasure to see them and on this occasion one took position under the bow and just stayed there, a metre ahead of the boat, matching our speed, almost station keeping. After anchoring and a late lunch in the small bay just inside Ak Stavros (one of the headlands defining the bay) we moved into the town quay, berthing Kurukulla, stern to, in amongst the fishing boats. Not too popular with one of the local fishermen but as I pointed out the jetty had been paid for by the EU, i.e. me, and I had equal right to use it! There was plenty of space so Kurukulla was causing no obstruction to anyone; the fisherman who complained just did not like the idea of a yacht using what they had come to think of as their facility! In truth it was built with EU money to bring in tourists and therefore revenue to the local community, not for sole use of the fishermen. A short walk round the “town”, supper onboard and a late night drink in a local taverna finished the day.

Mike (AKA Old Sea Dog) on the helm

After securing some provisions from the only local shop we moved back to the bay of the previous afternoon for a leisurely lunch and then sailed off the anchor heading for Milos. This proved to be another brisk downwind sail, averaging nearly 7 knots under double reefed main and rolled genoa, and saw us forging through the channel between Kimolos and Poliagos before anchoring off a large sandy beach on the south side of Kimolos. A wide, open, anchorage but comfortable none the less if you could forget the 20 knot wind blowing; at least it was warm wind!

Departing Kimolos

Passing Sikinos to Stbd

The debate next day was go into Milos town, 7 miles away, or head to Ios and start making our way east. The wind untimately decided for us by backing to the NW making an entry to Milos easy but the exit would have been decidedly uncomfortable. Thus it was that we set off on a spanking good reach, under the same sails as the day before, heading for Ios. 36 miles in 5 hours, anchorage to anchorage, in a lumpy sea but fast sailing. Due to the conditions lunch had to await our arrival in the anchorage at Milopotamou, in Ios, but we were there and anchored by 1500. Milopotamou offers reasonable shelter but we did have to reset the anchor once to stop it dragging. After anchoring the first time I went for a swim to check on the anchor and got run down by a passing windsurfer for my trouble, fortunately the only damage was a painfully bruised leg, mine! The anchor in the meantime was lying on its side, dragging along happily, and making no attempt to dig in! The second time we laid it it performed rather better and held perfectly throughout the night, despite very gusty conditions.

Today we moved into Ios harbour and managed to get the only available free berth in the whole harbour. Fortunately we backed in alongside a very friendly couple from California who agreed that as we were the larger boat we should take their holding off line, the only one available, and they would hang off us.

Milopotamou anchorage, the most popular beach on Ios

Some people might not have been so accommodating! Ios is a small harbour with limited facilities and subject to heavy swells when the large ferries are manoeuvring into their berth in such restricted space so a good holding off arrangement is essential.

Tomorrow we head for Ornos Nero, my favourite anchorage in Ios.

Gusting force 10 for 8 days!

Kormou Ammos

Kurukulla stern to in Tinos

The weather predictions were right, the winds abated and went round to the south for two days. On day one we sailed gently across to Rania again, anchoring for the night in the same bay as before, Kormou Ammos. Another evening in paradise. Next day we set off in a light southerly wind for Tinos, some 7 miles north, and ghosted our way up to the harbour entrance. For anyone entering Tinos beware, the description and chartlet in the latest Heikell pilot are completely inaccurate. There is now a half finished, and seemingly abandoned, project creating a breakwater which closes off most of what was once a very wide entrance to the port. The starboard hand light on the original southern mole has been extinguished and replaced by a rust coloured drum shaped buoy displaying a green (Fl, 3secs) light by night; positioned just outside the southern end of the “new” structure. The unfinished state of the breakwater means that for a considerable part of its length it is barely visible, being within centimetres of the sea level. A significant hazard if attempting a night entry!

The abandoned breakwater project from S end, Buoy in distance

Ornos Plaka, Andros

Berthing here was easy and assistance was on-hand to take our lines as we made our Med moor. Shortly after we decided to indulge in an ice cream which was accompanied by an offer of help from a local, at the same ice cream parlour, to show us where to find gas, supermarkets etc. I was invited onto the back of a motorbike and off we set. The locals really are incredibly friendly and nothing is too much trouble. The only shame was that their livelihood is derived from tourism and the place was rattlingly empty! More evidence of Greece's problems. Within minutes we were back with a full gas bottle and with me knowing where to find supermarkets etc. Water and electricity were available from the town quay; we declined both but noted that water was free, somewhat different to the 1€ per 10 litres we had paid the day before in Mykonos! That evening we dined onboard and then set off on a walking tour of the waterfront.

Next morning, having visited the local bakery for fresh bread, we set off in a flat calm for Ornos Plaka in Andros. A remote but very picturesque bay on the SW coast of Andros. The pilot described it as being adjacent to the ancient, and only recently excavated, town of Zagora but we saw little evidence of it. Notwithstanding it was a delightful place to spend the night, if a little open to the SW and any swell.

Stenon Dhisvaton, separating Andros (L) from Tinos (R)

Downwind at 8 kts

Kurukulla tucked away on far wall of Mykonos Marina.

Panormos entrance in a force 9!

Next day, Friday, was supposed to be the day the strong northerly winds arrived. To our surprise we awoke to a flat calm! This being the case we ghosted off the anchor early and set sail, very slowly, south. For the first two hours we fitfully sailed and motored until we passed between the islands of Andros and Tinos and onto the east coast of Tinos. From here everything changed. Within a few minutes we went from full sail and 2-3 knots of boat speed to double reefed main and heavily rolled genoa and 7.5 knots boat-speed; now on the wind, in 30 knots of breeze. This wind lasted for two hours and then just as suddenly dropped leaving a very large and confused sea; it was like sitting inside a washing machine! Another two hours, motoring at best speed, and we cleared the south end of Tinos where the wind again gathered its previous strength; this time though we were down wind and making 8-9 knots under double reefed main and full genoa. We arrived back in Mykonos marina, our chosen place of shelter for the forthcoming gales, at 1900. On entry we chose the most sheltered berth available, despite the protestations of the local boatman, and went alongside on the inner wall of the second basin (Identified as the best stop in earlier visits). Despite the high winds, by now 40 kts, all went well until there was a loud shout from Melvin who had taken the head rope ashore whilst I dealt with the stern rope; he had omitted to secure it to the boat properly and was standing on the jetty, with the whole rope in hand, struggling unsuccessfully to hold Kurukulla alongside. I tied my rope off hastily and made a leap for the boat to try to retrieve the situation. It was not to be. Eventually, after a lot of heaving and effort we finally got her back under control, with the assistance of several of the others in the vicinity, but with the opposite side to the jetty, something we would pay a price for later. That night the winds strengthened even more and by morning we had a force 7 – 8 gusting up to storm force 10! It has been that way for the last three days and is forecast to remain so until next Monday at the earliest, 10 days continuous. The consequence of Kurukulla being port side to is that the wind is from the stern. It is picking up the dust and sand from the marina hard standing, effectively sand blasting and covering the boat; sadly, this way round, the main hatch faces into wind and so the interior is is given a dose also whenever we exit! There are many worse places to be stormbound but the marina leaves an awful lot to be desired, totally unfinished and no working facilities.

Mykonos new port and marina, from above

The last three days have been spent tending the boat and touring the island in a hire car. Not quite how we intended to see the island but better than going “stir crazy” imprisoned onboard. In view of the forecast Melvin has changed his return flight to fly back from Mykonos and Mike Owens will fly into here to join on Thursday, in lieu of Syros.

More when we get away but it won't be soon!

Pause at Mykonos.

Super Paradise as evening descends

Having suffered the disco over Sunday night I decided to move on to a quieter anchorage for the following two days and moved eastwards to Elia, the quietest of the major beaches along the south coast. It is also reportedly the windiest but with the winds light and variable this was not a problem. A friend, Stephen Catchpole, was due to join on the Wednesday, early afternoon, and so I sailed Kurukulla round to Mykonos Marina on the Wednesday morning. On arrival it was evident that the marina is no more complete than it was last year; if anything it has sunk further into decline. No power, water or holding off ropes (unless you are lucky enough to choose one of the few berths where they have survived). It was all funded by the EU but unlikely ever to be completed let alone provide a return on investment.

The only item that seems to have become marginally more efficient was fee collection, of which more later.

Mykonos by night

Mykonos town

On his arrival Stephen and I decided we would victual the boat and took a taxi to one of the largest supermarkets on the island where we bought most of the victuals needed for the week. We then went back to the boat and placed it all onboard before heading into Mykonos town for the evening. Today Mykonos has no other reason to exist beyond tourism, and it shows. The streets are overflowing with tourist tat or over priced designer goods. Add to that an endless supply of bars and restaurants and you have heaven or hell on earth, depending on your point of view. After a walk around the town we settled on a simple but good taverna selling “giros” (kebab) and local Mythos beer. This should have been all that was needed for a first night in town; however, we found ourselves drawn into several of the other bars and clubs before caching a taxi back to the boat. The late hour of our return onboard might have accounted for the hangover we both had the day after!

Next day we set off back to Elia and anchored there overnight before heading onwards to investigate the north coast the day after; something which is not possible once the Meltemi, north winds, set in at the end of June.

Kurukulla at Panormos

Panormos, a large north facing bay and a windsurfers paradise in mid summer, was an ideal anchorage in the gentle southerly winds that we experienced. An afternoon anchored there was followed by a sail along the remaining north coast and a second night in Mykonos Marina. Not surprisingly this was also accompanied by another, more restrained, visit to the town.

Alongside in Mykonos

As we sailed next morning I was somewhat surprised to be accosted by a “harbour official” who invited me to report to the Coastguard offices in Mykonos town and pay my harbour dues (the local office in the New Port was closed for a four day holiday). As we had already left the berth I declined to return but I did agree to pay, at the local office, on my return on Wednesday.

Sunset at Kormou Ammos

Kormou Ammos

From here we set off to circumnavigate Rinia and Delos. The first night was spent anchored in a delightful bay on the north coast of Rinia called Kormou Ammos, decidedly the best anchorage of the trip so far; golden sand and crystal clear water. From there we set off next day to complete the circumnavigation and to return to the south coast of Mykonos for the next night. The winds were westerly and as a result the spinnaker got its first airing of the season, We had a spectacular run all the way from Delos to Agrari entering the bay under spinnaker and anchoring under sail.

Under spinnaker

Next day Stephen's departure was looming hence we spent a relaxing day anchored off the beach and then set off set off at 1700 for the sail back to Mykonos town. We were alongside by 1900 and caught the 2010 bus into town (interestingly the bus timetable is chalked up on a chalkboard at the bus stop!). There we passed a very pleasant evening wining and dining in Mykonos before walking back to the boat at 0300.

Mykonos Old Port

Rather late next morning I visited the port authorities. Unlike other Harbour Offices, Mykonos Coastguard calculate what is due not by number of nights in port but by number of days (i.e. one night = two days). For Kurukulla this equates to €12 per day or €24 per night! There is a double multiplier in here as this is already double the cost of a visit elsewhere before applying the day night stupidity! Almost every other town quay / coastguard administered port is €5 per night for Kurukulla. Argument was destined to get me nowhere; according to the Mykonos Coastguard every other port in Greece has got it wrong! Eventually I paid up; at least last year I got a free berth here for a week!

After this saga we breakfasted at Mathew's Taverna. This establishment is right at the marina entrance and is to be recommended; friendly, helpful and good food. From here Stephen set off to the airport whilst I returned to Kurukulla via the local mini-market. I now had two days to await the arrival of my next guest, Melvin Parkinson. For these two days, with a northerly wind forecast, I returned to the beaches of the south coast; by now I was getting to know them well!

Self at Mykonos Old Port

My return to Mykonos Marina, two days later, was decidedly windy and lumpy motoring against a 25 knot northerly wind but by now the batteries needed a good charge, or at least that was my excuse for motoring! The same berth as I had used two days previously was still free and, just as I lined Kurukulla up for the alongside, a very helpful Swiss couple appeared from the boat astern and took my lines. After lunch I headed for the airport in a taxi to meet Melvyn and on the return journey we bought victuals for the next week. Double value from the taxi!

Anchored at Elia

That evening we went into Mykonos town for supper and to give Melvin a taste of the place as this was his first visit; another 0300ish night out! It seemed that Melvin had brought with him the first bout of the Meltemi (strong northerly winds) as the forecast was for N4 – 6 for the next three days. Back to shelter on the south coast! We anchored off Elia, this time with a long line ashore, and settled down to await the wind abating. Three hours later we were visited by a Coastguard patrol who informed us we were too close to the beach and needed to be a minimum of 200m out. They seemed less interested in our compliance than in making sure they were seen telling us, hence we waited until they were out of sight and did nothing. They never returned and we had a comfortable night!

Today the wind is, if anything, stronger; gusting up to 35kts. Hence we will stay put for the time being and await it abating; something that is forecast for tomorrow when we an expect a short period of southerly winds before the Meltemi returns again. More when we depart.

Under-way for 2012

Departing Yacht Marin (in background), Marmaris

I finally managed to leave Marmaris just one day late; this was due to a problem with the fitting of the new alternator. TMS staff insisted that I needed a new intelligent regulator to go with the new alternator, the only problem was they sacked the electrician doing the job halfway through (personal clash with management, nothing to do with Kurukulla); the result was more time spent trying to decide what had been done and how! Not clever.

In the clear blue skies of Friday 4^th of May, at 1600, we set off for the anchorage at Gerbekse to pass a couple of days sorting out and shaking down. Nothing like getting away from the dockyard to really find out what works and what does not! The first thing that did not work was the Sterling regulator. It tripped out after 30 minutes on a high battery temperature trip. A quick check of the batteries disproved that but the regulator steadfastly refused to reset. After a few minutes head scratching I identified the problem, the wiring to the battery temperature sensor and the alternator temperature sensor had been crossed resulting in the alternator temperature, normally very much higher than the batteries, tripping the battery temperature trip. This resolved we got under-way again, by now it was getting towards dusk.

Gerbekse anchorage

Arrival in the anchorage was simple but there were several other boats there too and insufficient room left to swing at anchor. The only solution was to drop the anchor in the middle, back up to the rocks and swim a line ashore. It was a brief and invigorating late evening skinny dip, much to the amusement of the young, partying, UK holidaymakers on an adjacent gullet. Despite their shouts of encouragement I still did not get invited to swim over for a drink! Can't think why!

Next morning I had a good session washing down the decks and getting rid of as much of the sanding dust as possible, clearing the scupper drains, all interspersed with the odd swim and washing down of the hull. By the end things were looking much better. The weather was ideal, sunshine, light breeze and complete calm inside the anchorage. So much so that I decided to continue working on Kurukulla and stay another night.

Kizil Adasi anchorage

The following morning the wind was starting to build early and so after a swim to free the stern line we set off west towards Bozburum and to take leave of Turkey. The wind was, as predicted, on the nose until the turn north 16 miles down the coast. This equated to three hours motoring but on the plus side another chance to test the alternator. Once heading north towards Bozburum it was a fantastic beam reach in light winds for the next two and a half hours before anchoring a mile and a half short of the harbour on the east side of the island of Kizil Adasi; a splendid, secluded anchorage with only goats and sheep for company. I anchored close in to the beach, in 7m of water but it was so clear the bottom looked as though you could reach out and touch it! The first night of real peace and solitude.

Embarking dinner

Next morning I pottered around the boat giving it another scrub down and sorted out a few more of the minor defects on the list. A local fisherman/goatherd arrived shouting at the top of his voice, interested I watched with fascination as all the goats gathered on the foreshore to meet him. They were obviously used to him arriving with some food, choosing his passengers for the return journey and heading back. This time he embarked a nanny goat but her kid had not appeared. Some minutes later he was spotted watching proceedings from afar and after another brief stop against the rocks he too was embarked, tonight's meal I rather suspect! After lunch I set off to enter the harbour at Bozburun and do battle with bureaucracy; I was not to be disappointed!

Bozburun High Street

After entering the port I berthed in virtually the same spot as that which I had occupied some 6 months before when re-entering Turkey. First things first, a brief trip to the supermarket to get some victuals followed by the trip to the harbourmaster's office. Here I was greeted with a locked door, the immigration police officer informed me that the harbourmaster was away and would I come back tomorrow. Having explained that tomorrow I was not planning to be in Turkey he relented and assured me that if I came back in an hour the harbourmaster would have returned. Sure enough he did, only to inform me that I was not now allowed to organise my own departure, I needed to employ an “Agent”! Where was that helpful official of last October? Apparently any vessel over 10 tons net (Kurukulla is not but he would not accept that as the registration certificate says 0.0 Net tons!) has to use an agent at a cost of 30€. The only alternative was to go to the bank myself and pay 9.30TL into the correct account and return with the receipt; the only problem was it had to be paid into a branch of Garanti Bank and the nearest branch was in Marmaris! The next bus was tomorrow and it takes 2 hours! The debate lasted 20 minutes by the end of which I was getting no where and so I decided his friend, the agent, was probably worth his 30€ just to avoid me loosing my patience. I found the Atlas Agency, in town, and employed him for the purpose of getting my clearance; it took 30 minutes and one visit to the harbourmaster! He has internet banking with Garanti Bank!

By 1830 it was all finished and I exited the harbour to go to anchor at the north end of the same island as the night before, ready to escape northwards through the Kizil Adasi Channel and head directly for Simi the next day.

Simi waterfront

The following morning dawned clear and bright but without a breath of wind. It was a two and a half hour motor to Simi and even at the start of the afternoon, when the wind usually sets in, it was still oily calm. I arrived in Simi at 1300 to be greeted by a very friendly Port Police official who took my lines and invited me to set about the “Merry Go Round” of entering Greece. First Port Police, then Immigration Police, then Customs and finally back to Harbour master/Coast Guard to pay! All went well until I got back to the Harbour Master's office where I was second in line to a French skipper who was having a very similar discussion to mine of the day before. Being strongly European he was having none of this “stupid Greek bureaucracy” and telling the young girl behind the desk so in no uncertain terms; needless to say she, being the one in uniform, dug her heels in and eventually he paid (having borrowed some change from me, Greek Authorities never have change). I tried my best to be polite and co-operative and 20€ and several minutes later walked out without hassle, having been complimented with “how much more co-operative the British are”; it never pays to upset officialdom in Mediterranean countries, no matter how young and inexperienced they look; sometimes, however, it is difficult not to! On my return to the boat the French skipper was in the waterside bar, at the stern of Kurukulla, waiting for me and wishing to repay the debt; the interest amounted to him buying me a Mythos, local beer, as well!

Next it was off to the mobile phone shop to organise internet connectivity, but not so fast; the restaurants are open but normal shops are closed, today is a public holiday (Tuesday!) to commemorate the independence of the Dodecanese islands from the Italians? British?, no one seemed quite sure but they were happy to have a day off anyway. That being the case it was an evening alongside in Simi and wait for tomorrow when the shop will be open at 0900.

Church guarding Nimos Passage, Simi

The berthing in Simi is stern to the quay as normal, but that means that you are exposed to the constant noise of passing traffic; not that there is a vast quantity on an island as small as this but Greek youths are equally prone to massive sound systems in their cars and “tweaking” the silencers on their motorbikes as are the British: they then drive around late into the night! Not exactly conducive to a good night's sleep!

Departing Livadhia, Tilos

Next morning it was off at 0900, back to the only mobile phone shop in town; at 0930 the owner also deigned to arrive despite his sign giving 0900 as the opening time! Within 20 minutes I was sorted out with a Cosmote SIM card for the dongle, €40 for 1 month and 5Gb, something else that is much cheaper in Turkey! Back to the boat and away. We set sail through the Nimos Passage and away to the south west; minor problem, no wind! Four hours of motoring later we arrived in Livadhia on the island of Tilos, a beautiful bay, suitable for anchoring in the early season, before the Meltemi (N winds) starts, and as tranquil as you could wish. A swim, a sunbathe and supper, what more could a man want? Next day it was off to the island of Nisiros to pick up my nephew, Simon, who was joining for 5 days. One strange fact. The promenade at Livadhia is little more than a track along the waterfront of a sparsely inhabited island but it has streetlights! Loads of them and on all night. With a population of 200 it must be cheaper to provide each inhabitant with a torch, that way they can even use it to defend themselves if attacked in the night!

Distant view of Nisiros

One reef and well heeled

After a couple of hours sorting Kurukulla out we got under-way at 1100 and set off for Nisiros. Initially the wind was variable and light so the trip was part under sail and part engine. By 1530 the wind had fillled in and we entered the narrows between Nisiros and the western islands of Pakhia and Periousa with a reef in and well heeled. On the basis that I did not want to spend the night in Mandraki harbour on Nisiros in such conditions, I headed for the anchorage at Periousa for the night. A good decision, as I sailed towards the bay on the eastern side I set about getting ready to anchor, genoa rolled up, tack for the beach, start engine, start engine...... not very keen! Change of plan, anchor under sail and then sort out why the engine won't start! Safely anchored I then started investigating the problem. Seemed like fuel starvation. After working my way back from the fuel lift pump to the fuel tank via filters, separators etc. I finally discovered that the fuel suction from the tank was blocked! Disconnected, and following a hearty blow down the pipe, it cleared, but for how long? Next morning I sailed across to Mandraki to pick up Simon but I was still dubious about the engines reliability, it started perfectly for the berthing manoeuvre but....... when might it next decide not to co-operate. A helpful port policeman indicated the berth he wanted me to take and invited me to go up to the office and present my papers, again..... every port you enter needs a copy of all your papers, how else will they keep the masses employed and the waste paper merchants busy!

Waterfront at Mandraki, Nisiros. Kurukulla nearest.

Simon arrived on the ferry from Kos half an hour later and, having got him settled onboard, we set off to do some victualling in the town and stopped for a brief beer on the way back to the boat. All this done we sailed off the berth and back to the anchorage at Periousa where we again anchored under sail. Here we spent the evening, concocting a version of jambalaya and sampling the newly acquired Greek wines.

Morning bath and dhobi

Next morning dawned grey and with slight drizzle. We decided to stay put for a few hours and I decided to investigate the interior of the fuel tank. With the inspection hatch open I recruited Simon's assistance to hoover out the gunge in the bottom of the tank, not very much but some bits of debris big enough to have caused the problem. That done the tank was closed up again; confidence restored in the engine.

After lunch we sailed off the anchor and across to Kamares in Kos where we anchored between three other boats on the southern side of the jetty. It is a small holiday town with not a lot to recommend it other than an anchorage with good holding and a few shops and tavernas.

More once we are in Kos town....................