Windy weather

Descending to Vroukounda

Tombs at Vroukounda

The day after Mike and Steve's arrival was spent touring northern Karpathos island in a hire car, taking in Vroukounda and its associated tombs and the village of Avlona, which must be one of the remotest places in Greece; the return leg took us to Olympus. All this was a very enjoyable way of passing the time before the arrival of Christoph, our next crew member.

On the following day the forecast was for a north westerly wind and so we decided to make life easier by moving Kurukulla round to the main port of the island, Pighadia, where a “new” yacht harbour has been financed by the EU. After sailing out of Finiki, under genoa alone, we had a fast sail down to the southern tip of the island followed by a fairly gentle reach to the headland before Pighadia. As we rounded the headland it was a very rapid pair of reefs in the mainsail and a much reduced genoa. Having reached into the bay for shelter we dropped all sails and then motored into the yacht harbour. Mike was there to greet us, having driven round the coast from Finiki, monitoring our progress as he went.

The "new" yacht harbour at Pighadia

The “new” yacht harbour proved to be somewhat of a disappointment. The available space had mostly been occupied by local small boat owners, all of whom had laid their own moorings leaving lines and floats all over the place, each of which represented a risk of getting a line round our propeller. After some careful manoeuvring, and assistance from Mike on shore, we were in. Only to find that the water and power facilities had all been either vandalised or died of neglect! Why do the EU bother! Wasted money which totally fails to achieve the objective of bringing in tourists to boost the local economy. They might as well have thrown the money in the harbour! I found out later that even the majority of local boat owners had vacated the place when they were asked to pay for their berths there, they just left all their rubbish and lines behind when moving back to the original inner harbour.

We were to spend the next two days here due to strong NW winds. Manoeuvring to exit the harbour in these conditions was going to be too tricky and, given the uninviting conditions outside, not a prospect we relished! Ultimately we were able to victual the yacht ready for escape and then made our escape, during a lull, on the evening of Thursday the 8^th of May. Our target was to anchor in the bay that night and then set off mid morning next day. A slight hiccough with gas supplies, like we ran out (the full bottle left over from last year proved to be not so full after all!), meant a quick dash back into the harbour to replenish before setting off south. In the event this delay probably did us a favour as by the time we were half way down the east coast of the island the wind had increased to almost gale force and the seas were building rapidly. We decided to run for cover and, after a very wet and testing hour, we anchored in a bay just 200m south of the runway flight path for the airport. Good news for Mike who is our resident plane spotter!

Next morning we sailed off the anchor, rounded the southern tip of Karpathos and headed for our original destination of Ormos Khelatronas, on the southern tip of the adjacent island Nisos Kasos.

Anchorage at Ormos Khelatronas, southern tip of Nisos Kasos

On arrival we discovered another yacht that had departed Pighadia at the same time as ourselves. His tales of his crossing were enough to convince us that we had made the right decision! Ormos Khelatronas is a beautiful bay, with a sandy beach at the head and well protected; hence, we spent a pleasant evening there and planned to set sail reasonably early next morning. In the event we sailed off the anchor and out of the bay at about 0830 next morning (the other boat had departed at 0700, obviously an early riser!) to make the crossing over to Crete. Our destination was one of the anchorages on the very NE corner of the island. By good fortune this was a brisk crossing, all on starboard tack, and we arrived in the anchorage at Ornos Dhaskalia in time for lunch and a swim. A delightful anchorage, all to ourselves; that is unless you count the two military personnel who turned up to throw us out, apparently we were inside a “Military Area” despite the Rod Heikell pilot stating that we were not.

The second anchorage bay at Dhaskalia

We assured them we would leave once lunch was finished and that seemed to pacify them in the short term; in the event we were just sailing out when they arrived to repeat their warning. We moved half a mile to the next bay south where we anchored without interruption or harassment. After supper in the cockpit, for the first time this year; a peaceful night, and an early morning swim (bracing); we set off for the short sail round to the port of Sitia, on the opposite (W) side of the peninsula.

Alongside in Sitia

Departing Sitia

Anchorage at Dragonada, under St Anthony's church

Anchorage at Dragonada

Inside St Anthony's church

The sound

Sitia is far from picturesque but welcoming all the same. The harbour is well protected and with space galore. We even managed to go alongside, rather than the more usual Mediterranean moor, (anchor out and stern to the jetty). That night it was a trip to the local supermarket, to stock up; followed by dinner ashore in a local restaurant. Next morning I had to go to do battle with the local Port Police (they had called by whilst I was away at the supermarket) and pay the harbour dues after which we were free to go. Our plan was to head out to the Dionisades Islands and anchor there for the night. Anchorages here are not many and those that there are tight for space. After swinging round our anchor, in a small bay under the only building on the island (a church of course) we decided that there were two options, leave or tie back to the rocks. Half an hour later we were tied back and secure for the night. Christoph and I set off for a walking tour of the island of Dragonada whilst Steve and Mike stayed on board to keep a check on the boat. The island is small, one square mile in total, but with steep hills rising to the centre. Reaching the top and then descending again took us two hours. In the process we discovered another fishing boat anchored in the adjacent bay but not another living soul; that is until we got back to Kurukulla to discover two small motor boats sharing our anchorage. The owners had come over to the islands to go hare coursing with their dogs and have a BBQ that night, before departing next day. They explained to us that the refuge next to the church was available for public use, by anyone who came to the islands, and was their intended “home” for the night. In the event other friends of theirs arrived at 0300, in a motor cruiser; eliciting a cheer from the hunters on their arrival, and generating a saga on departure. Their attempt to depart at 0430 resulted in them getting a rope around their propeller from one of the hunters boats and fishing up our anchor cable with their anchor! You can imagine how impressed we were with being woken by the sound of their anchor grating up our anchor cable at 0430! After 30 minutes of pantomime we were free of their anchor and they motored off at high speed, taking the anchor of one of the motorboats with them. Oh how I enjoy power boat owners!

En route Spinalonga Lagoon

Venetian fort and Leper colony at the entrance to Spinalonga

We motored out of the anchorage at 1030 and headed westwards out of the sound (similar but very much smaller than Falkland Sound) heading for Spinalonga Lagoon. For the first hour we were sailing gently, or motor sailing, westwards; but then the white horses ahead became more defined. Yet again, within 30 minutes, we were double reefed on the main and heavily reefed on the genoa, struggling to hold course, in 35 – 40 knots of wind, (Force 7 – 8). The first time this year the foul weather gear and safety harnesses have been out of their stowage! Two hours later we arrived in the Spinalonga Lagoon, sailing past the Venetian fortress at the entrance, with its associated leper colony, and anchoring in one of the bays with a brief sigh of relief! Supper on deck was achieved in the quiet of the evening but as I write this I am sitting onboard, next day, at anchor, in the lagoon, listening to the wind howling through the rigging yet again! Tomorrow we move on to Ayios Nikolaos from where Steve and Mike depart and George and Nigel arrive.

Underway for 2014

Back in the water

The 2014 season started with a Monarch Airlines flight from Gatwick to Dalaman on the 15^th of April, with the intention of getting Kurukulla in the water and underway by the 25^th. Launch on the 21^st went to plan but a series of defects, a double leak on a fresh water tank and a refrigerator problem, resulted in departure being delayed by a day. Nothing that could not be caught up! To help me get Kurukulla ready Dennis Giles, an Australian friend who lives and works in Holland, had volunteered to join on the day she was launched, and very grateful for his help I was too; especially when getting the port fresh water tank out to repair!

So it was that we cleared out of Turkey, at the Marmaris ferry terminal (where they have now built a small boat berthing facility for which they charge €20 for a 30 minute visit!) on the morning of 26 April.

Our intention was to spend one night anchored not very far from Marmaris, in Gerbekse about 10 miles along the coast, using this passage as a shake down sail, and then head for Rhodes and entry into Greece the next day. The weather was ideal and Gerbekse delightful, shared with only a local fisherman and one other yacht; very different to the crowds of boats in high season.

Panorama of Limni Panormittis

Next morning we set sail for Rhodes town; the passage started as a beam reach in ideal conditions; it was not to last! By the end of the first hour we were close hauled on port tack, and an hour later beating to windward in a brisk southerly wind. My patience ran out and I decided to enter Greece via Symi instead thus gaining the lost day on the programme and avoiding a cold and tedious beat to windward. A visit to Rhodes will have to wait! Two hours later we were anchored in Limni Panormittis, a beautiful anchorage at the southern end of Symi. Our plan was to spend the night there and then going on to Symi town, and the battle with bureaucracy, the following day. We motored in and anchored in a completely empty bay, overlooked by the monastery! On the last visit, in July 2013, it had been difficult to find a spot clear enough to anchor! By 1800 it was time for a G&T, “sundowners”, followed by supper thereafter.

Arriving Symi

Empty quays at Symi

The next morning we sailed off the anchor and set off for a brisk sail up the west coast of Symi, through the Nimos passage and across the bay to Symi town; always an enchanting place to visit. On arrival, with our “Q” quarantine flag flying, we were greeted by a charming female member of the Port Police who invited us to complete the formalities. Amazingly the process has been much simplified! The necessary forms are now passed to you, on arrival, whilst onboard; once completed it is a visit to Immigration Police, to present passports; followed by Customs (seems optional if you don't want Duty free, I didn't bother) and finally Port Police offices to pay for entry and have the boat's cruising permit stamped. Armed with €400 in cash to pay the newly introduced Greek Tax on boats cruising in their waters I set off to do battle (My neighbour in Marmaris had a letter from the Greek Embassy in Holland telling him he was exempt as an EU Flagged vessel but this seemed to contradict the draft law that I had seen). At the Port Police Offices I was greeted by another excellent ambassador for the Port Police Service and she explained that they had not yet had instructions on how or when to collect the new tax, despite the fact that it was approved in the Greek parliament and apparently became law on the 14^th of April; the consequence, no tax was payable! Joy on joy! Not only this but they had removed the requirement for EU registered vessels to report to the Port Police once per month whilst in Greek waters and all that is now necessary is to report, and have the Boat Cruising Log stamped, on entry and departure or once per year if not departing Greece within 12 months. Putting my €400 back in my pocket, or €380 anyway, (I had to pay €20 for entry to Greece!) I set off back to the boat and late lunch in a taverna on the water front. Later that evening we were chatting to the Lithuanian owner of another waterfront taverna, where we had decided to take supper, and she was lamenting the lack of boats in the harbour. Normally bustling at this time of year it was all but empty. I explained to her the threat of the €400 tax and the deterrent effect this would have for boats visiting Greece for short periods, (For boats under 12m in length it is a graduated annual charge up to a maximum of €400, over 12m in length it is €10 per metre per month if paid monthly) and that this was probably the reason the port was empty. They had no idea the government had taxed their livelihood away!

Entering Marathouda

The next morning was spent organising internet access for the boat, care of Vodafone Greece, and “no” I could not have a contract with Vodafone, as I had had 3 years before, as I now needed a Greek tax number to be able to enter into a contract in Greece! I would have to have PAYG and pay double the rate! Not everything changes for the better! This done we set off for Marathouda, an anchorage on the SE side of Symi, from which we planned to depart for Alimia (an island on the NW side of Rhodes, 25 miles SW) the next day.

Marathouda is a small hamlet, maximum 6 dwellings, at the head of a small creek. On arrival we sailed in and were looking for a suitable place to drop the anchor whilst avoiding getting tangled up with the four fisherman's moorings and the one fishing boat already present. Unexpectedly we were hailed from the fishing boat and invited to use one of the moorings, very friendly! It was a quiet and pleasant night, including a quick (by necessity) swim and shower off the back end of the boat; the water was no warmer than Gerbekse!

Entering the bay at Ormos Alimia

The sail to Alimia was fantastic, a close fetch on Starboard tack, with Kurukulla averaging nearly 7 knots and all in brilliant sunshine. By 1500, and after a short beat up the channel between Rhodes and Alimia, we were anchored in the almost deserted southern corner of the bay at Ormos Alimia with only two fishing boats for company. The remainder of the afternoon and evening was spent relaxing with the occasional swim.

One of the deserted churches

Interior of the church

View across the bay at Ormos Alimia towards the entrance

Our plan for the next day was to sail the 5 miles south to Khalki and hence, with such a short distance to go, we were in no hurry to get underway. We first moved anchorage to the northern end of Ormos Alimia and swam ashore to tour the now deserted and ruined village. The only two buildings in even half decent repair are the two very small churches, both of which were still just about intact inside but full of the debris and building materials used for their maintenance! Imagine our shock when on wandering around the northern church we discovered a burning oil lamp in one of the windows! Spooky! Who fills it, who trims the wick? There are no inhabitants left on the island!

After a leisurely lunch onboard we sailed off the anchor and set off to Khalki. Given the slight swell and the wind direction we were unsure whether to moor up in the main bay at Khalki (AKA Emborious) or to go to the next bay south and anchor there. In the event, after a tour of the bay at Khalki, we chose Ormos Potamos, which is only a half mile to the south. Here we anchored in 5m of water, on pure sand, and inflated the dinghy for its first excursion of the year. We rowed ashore and enjoyed a pleasant walk across the isthmus dividing the bay from the town of Khalki. After a brief visit to the “supermarket” to buy some meat (which we had omitted to buy in Symi) we stopped for a single beer in a waterfront taverna, accompanied by some delicious complimentary smoked fish and squid, before taking in more of the scenery by walking a rather longer route back to the boat. We arrived back onboard at sunset and enjoyed a chicken supper, this being the only fresh meat the “supermarket” had to offer!

Panorama of the head of the bay at Tristoma

The entrance to Tristoma bay, taken looking back, on exit!

Next morning we again sailed off the anchor, beat out of the bay, and set course for the northern end of Karpathos, an anchorage called Tristoma. This was a 34 mile passage and was again a close fetch in brisk but pleasant conditions. In total the trip took 5 hours under a combination of No1 Genoa and Mainsail, both occasionally reefed when the wind got too boisterous. By 1615 we had negotiated the narrow and rather unnerving southerly entrance (the narrowest of three but the only one passable with our draft) and were safely anchored in a small bay on the north side at the head of the inlet. Fantastic holding ground; so good that, next morning, it was quite a task to extricate the anchor after a gusty night. Again our only company was a few local fishing boats. The village at the head of the inlet seems almost abandoned with most of the dwellings dismantled, only a few still show signs of occupation.

Stern too on Finiki jetty

Our task next morning was to reach Finiki, a small fishing port on the southern end of the west coast of Karpathos. It was from here that Dennis was due to leave to fly back to Holland, via Rhodes, next day and three more friends were due to join. We arrived in Finiki at 1315 after motoring and sailing intermittently down the west coast of Karpathos. On entering we were greeted from the jetty by Dimitrios who hailed us, showed us which part of the jetty was available to us and took our lines on arrival. He seems to be a form of self appointed Harbour Master! Having moored up he broke the news to us that there was a strong SE wind forecast and that the harbour would be untenable in such conditions! Great! There are not many options hereabouts! Sure enough, despite being in an enclosed bay, with only a mile or so of open water to the south, as the wind rose the harbour became more and more uncomfortable. After two hours we decided to give up. After extricating our anchor from one of the mooring anchors on which it had fouled, (Dimitrios had said nothing of these but we later found out there are many! It was one of his we lifted!) we went out and anchored close inshore, off the local beach, where the wind was blowing offshore and the sea flat. Here we sat out the overnight gale with me having a sleepless night; not so much because of the conditions but wondering how the hell I was to get Dennis ashore the next day to catch his 1400 flight! If the winds did not abate there was no simple or safe option! Re entering the harbour in those conditions and then coming back out single handed was not without risks and putting him ashore in the dinghy in those conditions was equally risky! Fortunately, despite recording winds of 45kts (Force 9) overnight, by 0800 the winds had abated and we re-entered the harbour and moored up again. This time Dimitrios offered us his nephew's mooring/holding off lines to avoid another saga with the anchors!

Dennis on Finiki waterfront

After an early lunch, the arriving friends, Mike and Steve (who had arrived by air the previous night) gave Dennis a lift to the airport in their hire car and he was safely on his way. They then joined a day later after spending a couple of nights in a local hotel. We now have only to wait for Christoph Herren, the fourth member of the crew, to arrive in two days time and we will be off again, to the south west, towards Crete.

More when we sail.....

Kalkan to Marmaris; the end of the 2013 season.

As planned Chris, Stuart and Jan-Willem joined in the afternoon of Saturday and Steve joined late that evening. By chance Steve was the only passenger in his airport transfer and, as a consequence, arrived 90 minutes ahead of schedule to find an empty boat! We were all ashore having an evening meal in Ilyada, one of the waterfront restaurants; good food and 10% discount card available if you press them!

Kalkan Harbour

Fortunately his detective abilities allowed him to find us and join in for most of the meal. By this stage the rest of us had already re-victualled the boat and so we were already for an early-ish departure next morning. In the event we departed at 0830.

Our first destination was the bay on the east side of Kotu Burun, a relatively open bay and mostly too deep to anchor; however, there is a small shallow patch in the NNW corner where anchoring without a line ashore is possible, (beware of snagging your anchor cable on underwater rocks). We anchored here for lunch and a swim. Thereafter we set off for the anchorage at Gemiller Adasi where we planned to spend the night; we arrived at 1800, just before sunset. A long day but worthwhile as it allowed us to make a first passage with Stuart, our novice sailor onboard, in benign conditions. We had sailed about half of the 30 mile passage and motored the rest.

The anchorage in the NW corner of Gemiller Adasi is one of my favourites, listed by Rod Heikell as fair weather only but in fact good in all winds except those between SW and E. The holding is good and suitable tie backs are easy to find. The advantage of his qualified recommendation is that few people use it! We were able to get the prime spot and decided to stay two nights in this idyllic environment. The boat selling local produce duly came and we were able to top up with fresh fruit and “village bread”, at a price, but the bread is truly delicious.

Steve's promotion celebration...

He remembered Kurukulla from last year and seemed genuinely pleased to see us again (we must have paid too much!). It was also here that Steve heard that he had been promoted at work and so a celebration ensued, helped by the fact that he had arrived with two bottles of champagne in his bag (in preparation for this or a later event).

Two days later we set off again, sailing off the anchor and bound for Fethiye Korfezi and Skopea Limani. These are wonderful cruising grounds and full of beautiful anchorages. Our passage west was less than comfortable with contrary winds in excess of 20 kts but I need not have worried the entire crew weathered the passage without problem, despite the discomfort. We initially entered the southern arm of the anchorge at Kizilkuyruk Koyu where we were able to have lunch and a swim but it rapidly became evident that this was not going to be sheltered enough for the night, hence we motored the four miles round to Seagull Cove and started looking for a suitably protected anchorage in the boisterous conditions, by now winds gusting, mostly from the west, up to 35 kts (top F7).

Anchorage at the entrance to Wall Bay

After a fruitless tour of Seagull Bay and Fathom Cove we decided to opt for Wall Bay but on entering we noticed a small cove on the NE side of the entrance which was empty and looked ideal. We took it. Anchor down in 10m, we tied back and settled for the night. It was of course this night that the new anchor decided not to hold first time; fortunately it held well second time, an hour later, so not ideal holding but good once in. The only downside was that Steve had a rather cold swim, whilst holding the stern lines in place, whilst the rest of us motored out and reset the anchor. Just as well we had found a well protected anchorage and now had the anchor well dug in as there followed a major thunder storm that night with all the unpredictable wind strengths and directions associated with it!

We survived the lot but next morning the rain continued and so we spent the morning idling our time away. By afternoon the weather had improved to that of a good summers day and hence we decided to spend much of the rest of the day here; amazing how much fun you can have using the spinnaker halyard as a jumping/diving rope!

Boynuz Buku at sunset

Ultimately we left in time to get Jan-Willem to Boynuz Buku to have a final meal that evening and ready for his 0500 taxi departure next day. Dinner was plain but adequate food; made up for by it's convenience to Dalaman Airport (80YTL ~ £27 taxi ride).

Following J-W's departure (in fact some hours later) we sailed off the marina berth, much to the surprise of our neighbours (well it was downwind), and set off for one of the bays back at the southern end of Skopea Limani; in the event we spotted a superb, deserted, cove on the north side of the entrance to Sarsila Koyu where we were soon anchored in the centre of the cove and tied back to the bollards on shore.

Cove on the north side of the entrance to Sarsila Koyu

In this area the shoreline is littered with bollards to tie up to; it is illegal to tie boats back to trees on the shoreline thereby avoiding damage to their bark and ultimately killing them. It had been another glorious day!

By now we were in need of more victuals and so, early in the afternoon of the following day, we sailed north to the Skopea Marina at Gocek; €20 for four hours alongside saw us re-victualled and watered and heading south again for another night in Boynuz Buku, this time anchoring in the shallows on the north-eastern side of the head of the bay.

Next day we headed south again and entered Tomb Bay, mooring in the very northern tip of the bay, off the beach. Whilst here Steve heard that he had become an Uncle for the first time, his brother and sister in law, living in Melbourne, Australia, had produced! Another celebration, but we had already consumed all the champagne! Later in the day we decided to head north and go to Yassica Adalari. The weather gods were against us. By the time we arrived the wind had set in from the north making the normally tranquil anchorage untenable, hence we bailed out and headed for the peace of Boynuz Buku yet again, this time anchoring and tying back at the head of the bay, on the south side, opposite the restaurant moorings. A peaceful place to spend the night.

View north across the lagoon at Yassica Adalari

Sunday morning dawned windless and so we decided to give Kizilkuyruk Koyu another try, this time we were able to secure the small cove on the NE side of the bay for ourselves and spent a wonderful day swimming and sunning ourselves, at the end of which we set off for the anchorage at Yassica Adalari again, a fabulous ten mile passage, on a beam reach and this time the lagoon was deserted and tranquil. Another great anchorage for the night.

Monday dawned clear and bright as expected, hence we stayed in the lagoon for the forenoon and had a leisurely lunch before departing for a short but enjoyable sail across to Boynuz Buku, again. It was from here that Chris and Stuart were to depart early that evening.

Chris and Stuart's pre departure meal at Boynuz Buku

The sail was a close fetch in a steady wind and for them it was a fitting way to end a sailing holiday. We berthed stern to the pontoon and ordered a table for an early dinner, in order to eat before their departure. By 1830 they had headed to the airport leaving Steve and I to debate where next! A German group, in two boats, adjacent to us were also debating the same subject and we decided to join forces in Fethiye the next evening, in order to dine at the fish market (On which more later).

At 1000 we motored off the pontoon and headed slowly towards Fethiye, stopping for a morning swim and lunch in the anchorage on the west side of Yassica Adalari. Excellent moorings available in this anchorage. Shortly before our departure we noticed another yacht slowly negotiate the narrow passage through between Yassica Adalari and the very small island to the south of it. There are two islands to the south, the channel between the two is rock bound and impassable but that between the main island of Yassica and the eastern of the two small islands is passable, with care, in fair weather; minimum 3.5m recorded. All adds to the excitement!

The central island at Fethiye fish market

From here we sailed over to Fethiye Adasi where we anchored for a swim in the cool spring waters which rise to the surface in this bay. Finally we sailed off the anchor and headed into the large anchorage opposite the marina in Fethiye where we anchored and set up for the night. Two hours and a large G&T later we were heading ashore in the dinghy to buy some provisions in the marina supermarket and then to leave them in the dinghy and head for the fish market. The fish market is a great find and well worth visiting. The centre is filled with a large island formed of several fish mongers all selling fresh fish of all descriptions. You purchase what takes your fancy and then take it to any of the restaurants on the perimeter who will then cook and serve it for you for the princely sum of 6YTL (£2). We opted for a small (whole) tuna for a main course with some red snapper as a starter along with some fish mezze purchased from the restaurant. All that combined with a bottle of very drinkable wine came to 125YTL (£42) in total, split between two of us. A delightful way to eat fish al fresco!

After the fish market we returned onboard, via the dinghy, taking with us one of our new found German friends. He decided that the offer of a whisky onboard Kurukulla was too good to miss. The result was several whiskies in Kurukulla, some late night boating in the dinghy (to get him back to his boat) and sore heads all round next morning. The joys of sailing.....!

Departing Kizilkuyruk Koyu

After another trip ashore next morning, to get yet more victuals and some spare parts, we set off for a final visit to the anchorage at Kizilkuyruk Koyu which is the best placed anchorage for our departure west the next day. A slightly frustrating beat to windward in frequently shifting winds but fun all the same. We arrived just before sunset to find that this normally tranquil anchorage was crowded and although we were able to secure a good spot to anchor and tie back in, it was not the tranquil spot we were expecting. C'est la vie. It was only for one night and the majority left early next morning, unlike us who delayed to enjoy the anchorage. Our departure was even further delayed by a last minute request from an adjacent boat to charge his laptop onboard Kurukulla; his inverter (to provide 240v from the 12v ship's battery) had failed. One beer later, and with his laptop half charged; he and we finally departed at 1530, just in time to get to the next anchorage, at Baba Adasi, by sunset. Baba Adasi is an anchorage between the mainland and the island, very easy to enter and normally very tenable.

Self at sunset, Baba Adasi

We sailed in, dropped the anchor well clear of the others, and settled down to watch the manoeuvres of those who arrived later than us and insisted on pushing in amongst the crowd; one of the joys of sailing, watching others conducting unaccustomed berthing manoeuvres!

By the time we woke in the morning almost all the others had departed. We again waited for the afternoon breeze to set in, notwithstanding it was a contrary wind and therefore would require us to beat westwards, preferring this to motoring in a still calm. In the event the wind got up about 1400 and was at times more boisterous than we had anticipated. It still led to a good beat to windward to Ekincik where we decided to anchor in the large bay on the west side of Koycegiz Koyu just north of Kizil Burun. The bay is open to the east but provides a good anchorage in most conditions; that is if you can tolerate the large population of biting flies and wasps that seem to inhabit it.

Arriving off Marmaris

By mid day the next day we had been bitten enough; we decided to sail off the anchor and make the short beat into Ekincik itself where we could anchor for the next night and made a trip ashore for essentials the next morning. Next morning became the next afternoon and finally we decided to stay put for the night and sail for Marmaris early the next day. The wind was forecast to be northerly guaranteeing a fast and smooth passage. At 2000 we took the dinghy ashore and toured the “town” (a large, partly (10%) finished, hotel with two restaurants and a small general store – that was it!). We chose the easterly restaurant, had it entirely to ourselves (slightly worrying but then the others were empty as well!) and enjoyed a very good meal despite the lack of company.

Monday morning dawned clear and bright so we sailed off the anchor at 0815, just as the sun crept over the surrounding hills. Sailed out of the bay and made steady progress towards Marmaris.

The view from the top

By 1200 the wind had dropped to nothing and so we decided to drift for a bit and have a scrambled egg and smoked salmon brunch whilst we waited for the onshore breeze to start. Sure enough by 1330 it filled in and we sailed into the bay at Marmaris. First stop was Netsel Marina to refuel, (always best to leave the tank full for the winter, stops problems of condensation collecting in the tank) and then it was onwards under engine to Yacht Marine and into an afloat berth to await lifting out in 7 days time.

Taking advantage of Steve's presence I completed the end of season mast inspection before his departure,

See you next year

(much easier to have someone to wind you up the mast!). After that, all that is left for this year is cleaning and preserving! Steve's taxi arrived at the appointed 1720 to take him to Dalaman Airport and I set about putting Kurukulla to bed.

More in April next year when, all things being equal, she goes back in the water again........

Westwards again towards Kalkan

In the event the evening was calm enough to spend the night anchored off Anemurium; what a sight to wake up to! At 0630, just after the sun had risen, we set off westwards, back to Alanya.

Anemurium at dawn

A short spell on starboard tack saw us clear of the Anamur Burnu headland and then it was on the wind on Port tack all the way back to Alanya. It was quite a bumpy ride; although the wind never rose above 22 kts the seas were large and irregular, a feature that lasted for most of the next five days.

We arrived back in Alanya at 1630 after a 10 hour passage on the wind. A 60 mile sail at an average of just over 6 kts. Our first stop was the anchorage by the dockyard again to have some late lunch and a swim to clean off all the dried salt from the spray of the last 10 hours. That achieved, and feeling rather more human again, we headed into the port and, after a bit of juggling of boats, managed to take the same berth as before. From here it was the local supermarket to re-victual, a Kebeb restaurant for a light supper and then drinks onboard with some local friends we had met on the previous visit; followed by a not so early night!

Another early morning start saw us on our way to Manavgat where we wanted to go up river to a restaurant for a birthday celebration lunch for Christoph, my present crew.

Restaurant at Manavgat, on the river

His birthday is actually a day after he is due to leave so we decided to celebrate the occasion early! There is only one proper restaurant on the river, about 5 miles up, just before the low bridge which makes the higher reaches of the river and the town of Manavgat inaccessible. The entrance to the river is shallow (3.5m and we draw 2!) and when the wind is in the south, as it was today, there are standing waves where the river flow meets the incoming waves. We managed the entrance OK but such places leave no room for the unexpected, engine failure or the like! An hour later we were berthed alongside the restaurant and tucking into our meze starter. At 1700 it was time to leave and head for Side, the ancient town of Selimiye, where the Roman harbour has been adapted to accommodate tourist boats and the odd yacht.

Approaching Side

The entrance to Side is also very exposed and shallow, hence we entered at speed, for control, but watching the echo sounder carefully. It was 3.4m minimum, just enough in such lumpy seas. Once inside we were hailed by a boat boy who, we later discovered, looks after two boats here and one in Alanya; he very kindly took our lines. The swell running into the harbour was causing the stern lines to snatch horribly; hence, after a rather torrid hour, we decided to release ourselves from the wall and swing round the anchor further out. The harbour is small so swinging room was very limited but a much quieter and a more pleasant night was achieved.

Some of the ruins at Side (Selimiye)

Next morning the seas had settled somewhat and we chose a better berth in which to make a second, more successful attempt, to go stern to the jetty. 30M of cable out, two lines from bow to jetty at an obtuse angle and steel springs in the stern lines and it was comfortable enough.

Departing Side in the early light

As I had already toured Side twice before I stayed to look after the boat and dispatched Chrisoph ashore to do the tourist bit! By the evening the seas had calmed and we were both able to enjoy a quick sojourn ashore, not that the modern part of Side is much to write home about, full to bursting with all manner of shops selling fake (and occasionally real) designer gear.

Next morning we set off early, 0630, for a 50 mile transit to Olympus.

Olympus by night

The intention was to arrive there in time to tour the ruins before moving on to a nearby protected anchorage for the night. In the event we arrived about 1600, after a passage under motor and then sail, to find that the bay at Olympus was calm and hence we were able to pass the night at anchor there. Next morning we swam ashore to view the ancient city; foolishly we did not take any money with us and hence we failed at the first barrier, the 10YTL (£3.30) entry fee at the guard-post that we could not see from the boat.

The Hammam in Olympus

Fortunately a local on the beach offered not only to look after our flippers etc, but also showed us the alternative entrance from the beach, as used by the locals. They, of course, don't pay! Olympus is fascinating, if very overgrown, and was well worth the two hours we spent wandering round.

View down river in Olympus

From Olympus it was time to head east again to Finike, about 20 miles away. We sailed off the anchor in very favourable winds and settled down for a pleasant passage. The gods' thought otherwise. As soon as we were clear of the land we were headed forcing us to tack out to sea.

Olympus from the beach

No sooner were we 3 miles offshore than the wind veered steadily through 90 deg. such that when we tacked back towards the land we had made 5 miles progress in the desired direction for eighteen miles sailed! Enough!! We sailed straight into Cavus Limani, an anchorage we had used on the outward voyage, and poured ourselves a large G&T. The evening was spent there at anchor swimming and relaxing.

So it was that the next morning was another early start, in order to catch up some lost time. Again we sailed off the anchor, only for the wind to die as we exited the bay. This time we wasted no time before starting the engine and we motored the seven miles to the headland, from where we were able to turn west towards Finike and sail to the marina entrance on a beam reach in a brisk breeze. The reason for stopping at Finike was to refuel and I also wanted some bits from the marina chandlery. Fuelling completed we prepared to head across and put Kurukulla alongside for 10 minutes, near the chandlery, so that I could dash in. The marina staff in their RIB were having none of it! They decreed that we could not go alongside anywhere other than the fuelling jetty, despite our protestations that we only wanted to visit the chandlery. The fuelling jetty was now occupied by another boat and so we ignored them and much to their annoyance went alongside near the chandlery anyway. It was closed, Sunday! You might have thought they would have known that.... I would have been even more grumpy if I had walked the half mile from the fuelling jetty to find out!

From here we headed back into Kekova Roads again and anchored off Ugaciz, in the north-western arm of the inner sea. An ideal anchorage in 3m of water and good holding on mud. Supper onboard, a relatively early night and next morning we moved alongside to have lunch at Hassan's restaurant. Hassan was the most helpful person I met when having to leave the boat there, at no notice, a month back and it only seemed right to repay him with our custom. The sign, in German, above his restaurant says “Best cook in the Mediterranean” which might be a slight exaggeration but his food is very good. After lunch it was time to do some re-victualling before getting under-way to Kas. I headed for the shops whilst Christoph headed for the barber to get a haircut. Having purchased a pile of vegetables from a market stall I went to pay in cash. The only minor problem was that there was no cash in my wallet! Fortunately I had enough in loose coinage to pay. As a consequence I then went back to the boat to check my other wallet to see if I had mistakenly put the money I had drawn from a cash dispenser in Side in the wrong wallet. No, and no sign of the money. I had been robbed in the night by someone coming onboard! I went back to warn Christoph who checked his wallet, he too had had all the notes taken. Not a bad haul for somebody; 900YTL (~£300) from my wallet and €200 (~£165) from Christoph; and neither of us heard a thing!

Actually at Side but rather how we felt at Ucagiz, "The Glums"

Fortunately they took only cash, nothing else was touched, not even credit cards and mobile phones, but a slightly un-nerving and costly experience all the same. My suspicion is that it was local youths who realised that credit cards and mobiles were too easily identifiable in such a small place. How much are those stand alone, small, burglar alarms? There was little point in reporting it to the authorities but we did tell Hassan before departing, his reaction led us to believe we were not the first victims.

Hassan's restaurant

From here it was a sail upwind to Kas. A three hour beat which left us arriving at dusk. Night fell just as we anchored in the bay at Bayindir Limani, one and a half miles south of Kas. Sadly my favourite part of this anchorage, the westerly corner, was full of gullets, hence we had to accept second best. It was quiet and tranquil though and good for one night.

To acquire the chandlery missed at Finike we decided to motor the five miles to Kas marina whilst at the same time giving the batteries a charge. An hour later we were alongside in Kas, (none of the problems of Finike), where we visited marina office, chandlery, Bankomat and supermarket in that order. An hour later we were on our way again heading for Kalkan 12 miles west. As we were leaving the “marinaio” (marina staff) warned us that the forecast had been updated and that force 7 westerlies were imminent. Just our luck; and he was right! By the time we exited the deep bay where the marina is sited it was blowing force 7 directly from our destination. Four hours later we anchored in Yesilkoy Limani, a bay one mile west of Kalkan harbour, wet and ready for a late lunch.

Just before sunset we wanted to move into the harbour ready for Christoph's departure, he had an airport transfer booked for 0030 from the harbour car park. Today was to be a day when nothing was going to be simple! On entering the harbour, just as the sun set, it was obvious that the harbour was full to bursting and short of Med-mooring in the second row out from the jetty there were no other options if we wanted to stay. We decided we didn't! We headed back to the anchorage, had supper and then came back into the harbour, to drop Christoph off on the bows of another boat, at midnight. He caught his taxi and I headed back to the anchorage single handed for the first time since returning from UK.

Two days later I am still here, anchored in the bay, and enjoying catching up on maintenance. The next guests arrive late on Saturday; hence I will have another attempt at getting into the harbour on Friday; and we will be away Sunday morning.

The next blog article will be after we depart.

An unexpected return to UK.

Awaiting joiners at Kalkan

Ray Ale and Julien all joined at Kalkan as expected. The plan was to move round into the inland sea at Kekova and then spend a week cruising the various anchorages in that area before a planned departure from Ugacik and my move along the coast to Finike.

We managed to cruise the inland sea from end to end including the beautiful anchorage at Karaloz on the south-east side of Kekova Adasi, my favourite from last year at Gokkaya Limani and the now traditional night at the Yoruk Ramazan restaurant at Polemos Buku

The anchorage at Karaloz, south-east side of Kekova Adasi

followed by the tour and snorkel trip round the ancient city of Aperlae. Indeed we achieved most of our planned itinerary but as the week went on the news from home on the health of my 98 year old father grew more grave; he had been relatively fine only three weeks before when I had last been in UK.

Yoruk Ramazan restaurant at Polemos Buku

Finally on the Saturday, the day of departure of the three friends, I received the call that I needed to return to the UK as my father was not expected to last more than a few days. The friends departed as planned from Ucagiz on the Saturday as I debated where to leave the boat. My initial intention was to take it to the marina at Finike, 20 miles east; but the local harbour master, on hearing my plight, offered to take care of the boat where it was. The local travel agent provided the taxi to the airport (three hours away) and Monarch provided a short notice (but very expensive) flight back to the UK. Sadly, despite all the efforts of those involved, I was not to get back in time. My father passed away on the Saturday night and I got the message whilst waiting for the flight at Antalya airport on the Sunday morning. C'est la vie; 98 is a good innings!

The next two weeks were spent in the UK arranging the funeral and dealing with my father's affairs; fortunately, I also have an elder brother with whom to share the task. The result was that I was able to keep my time away from the boat down to just two weeks and on return all was well. Good to his word, the harbourmaster had moved her to one of the most protected berths in the small marina and had taken good care of her.

On my return I was accompanied by Christoph Herren, a friend of mine who had been due to fly out to Finike via Antalia but changed his flight to accompany me out some days after his planned date.

The waterfront at Ucagiz

We arrived together in Ucagiz at 0400 on the Sunday morning, spent Monday re-victualling and recovering and then set off late in the day to try to catch up a bit of the programme as Christoph was keen to see some of the fantastic historic sites along the Turkish south coast. That evening we spent in Gokkaya Limani again, to give us time to sort ourselves out, and again accompanied by a gullet load of Australian backpackers, Oh joy! Disco music until 0300! Next day we headed for Finike Marina to get fresh provisions and fuel and then headed onwards, in a blustery wind, to Cavus Limani where we anchored in the Southern corner for the night.

Christoph had kindly brought out with him the replacement Autopilot, (aka George II). I decided that, as we wanted to do a night crossing the next night, across to Alanya, it would be sensible to fit George II before attempting this.

View north in Cavus Limani

Hence the next day was spent cable running and installing the new kit. By 1600 were were ready for sea trials, by 1630 we had become bored with weaving our way all over the sea whilst trying to prevent “George II” from steering a sinuous course all over the ocean. Try as I might I could not tune out the instability. We decided to postpone our crossing for 24 hours, spend the night in Cineviz Limani, and to consult the company representative in UK. This was all to no avail, their advice was only that which we had already tried; hence we sailed the following afternoon, without autopilot, across to Alanya whilst I racked my brains for the cause. After a relatively pleasant crossing, if in variable conditions, we arrived in Alanya at 0500 the following day; where we anchored under the “Red Tower” in front of the ancient dockyard.

Ancient dockyard and Red Tower at Alanya

By 1000 we were surrounded by noisy tourist boats, mostly disguised (badly) as pirate galleons! Thus at 1030 we sailed for another trials period. After a day of checking connections, testing, reading and re-reading the manual, in temperatures of 40 deg C, I decided to try a different basic setting for the drive type, adopting the one for “Mechanically propelled vessels”; not quite a description of a sailing boat but “eureka” George now worked stably and effectively! (For some reason there is no Sailing vessel setting listed in the manual!). The problem was a missing comma in the handbook....... Where they intended to say “Linear, rotary and sterndrive, with a rudder reference unit” they had actually written “Linear, rotary and sterndrive with a rudder reference unit” thus it was that I discovered that for the initial setting used all three required a rudder reference unit and not just for the sterndrive application! Kurukulla has a Linear drive....... Hmmm.

By mid afternoon we were ready to move into the harbour and I tried to berth where I had been so warmly received last year, on the Coast Guard jetty. Not so this year. It has been totally taken over by local fishermen and, unlike the fisherman who was so welcoming and helpful last year, these guys were anything but welcoming, even stringing ropes across between boats to prevent us entering empty berths! It is a public jetty, available to all, but they were having none of it! In disgust we headed over to the other side of the harbour where there is also public berthing and where we were able to go stern to; here we were welcomed by the locals! Strange how two groups of local people can be so different.

A night ashore in Alanya was followed by a day of sightseeing for Christoph and a day of finishing the job for me; that is after I had been to Alanya marina on the back of a motorcycle taxi to collect a new gas cylinder. An experience not to be missed...... up pavements (sidewalks), one way streets the wrong way, and finally out on a dual carriageway at speed. Paragliding last year had nothing on this!

Successful operation having been achieved, it was now time to re run, in permanent fashion, all the temporary cable runs; all this again in the same soaring temperatures! I think I lost several kilos'!

Alanya by night

That done, we set off to the supermarket to re-victual the boat and then spent another pleasant evening in Alanya before moving out into the anchorage again, late in the evening, in preparation for an early departure next day; and to get away from the discotheques! Even there we were plagued by “Pirate Galleons”, masquerading as floating discotheques, for most of the night. The Marchioness disaster on the river Thames, some years back, would pale into insignificance if two of these collided!

With an 0600 start we set off for Anemurium, the ancient Roman city on the most southerly tip of the Turkish mainland, 60 miles away. We stopped over night, en route, in Yackacik Koyu; a bay on the west coast 15 miles short of Anamur Burnu.

Banana plantation on the water's edge, Yackacik Koyu

Fortunately, by tucking ourselves right into the small cove on the north-western side of the bay (known for a small hut perched on the rocks on the right hand side) we were able to get a reasonable nights sleep; as did three fishing boats who later anchored very near us during the night! We were all trying to get as far in as possible and out of the swell.

The Roman Hammam at Anemurium

Next morning, after two hours of motor sailing we arrived, just in time for the wind to get up. Fortunately we were again able to tuck in to the bay and get out of the worst of the seas, even despite the wind gusting into the bay at 20 knots at it's maximum.

As I write this, looking at the ancient settlement of Anemurium, the wind is abating, the sun shining, the warm seas calling and a G&T is in the offing; hence more in a few days time after we have turned west again.