Kusadasi to Ayvalik, a not uneventful journey!

Following the trip back for my nephew's wedding in UK, with a bare 48 hours on the ground, it was time to set sail northwards again. With the hire car returned, the boat fully victualled and Christoph, the new crew, onboard we set sail at 1445 for the Kormen Adasi anchorage with its hot springs and reasonable shelter from westerly winds.

Korman Adasi with the hot spring on the right of the beach

The first two hours of the passage we enjoyed a gentle westerly breeze and made reasonably good speed towards our destination; however, by the half way point it was obvious that the wind was dying and, what there was, was heading us. Time to resort to the “iron foresail”; on went the engine! We finally arrived at 1900 to find a local fishing boat and a New Zealand registered yacht in the anchorage and so, having done a quick circuit to determine where would be the best place to anchor we chose a point slightly further in than the New Zealanders were, being careful not to invade their privacy by anchoring too close. We decided the hot springs would have to wait until the morning and so, after a brief swim to check the anchor and surroundings we settled down to a gin and tonic for “sundowners” and followed this by supper below. It was too cool to eat on deck. The following morning we were greeted by a glorious day, still, blue sky and crystal clear water. The New Zealanders had set off early to investigate the two hot springs and on their return, very kindly, offered us the use of their dinghy for us to do the same (ours was still in it's valise in the fore-peak!). In a brief conversation we discovered that they were slowly heading west with the intention of doing a transatlantic crossing in two years time. We declined their offer and a little while after set off swimming for the beach to enjoy the luxury of basking in the warm water emanating from the spring. Just as we returned onboard a tourist boat entered the bay and anchored in front of the other hot spring on the shore of the northern island forming the bay and so we decided not to visit this one but to get underway instead. As we prepared to sail off the anchor a second boatload of tourists arrived and took over the spring we had just vacated; definitely time to depart. As we sailed off the anchor and slowly made way towards the entrance of the bay we were awarded a round of applause from the tourists so not all bad.

Kirkdilim Limani

From Korman Adasi we set off across the bay for Kirkdilim Limni, 18 miles away; a deep inlet, not unlike a fjord, which has nothing in it other than a large mooring buoy, but who uses it remains a mystery. This beautiful and peaceful anchorage was totally unspoilt and we were able to anchor under sail in the head of the bay in 4m of water, 50m off the beach. The water allowed an inspection of the anchor as it was dropped, it was so clear. Just bliss! Another quiet evening here and still night such that we waited the following morning until midday before getting underway in order to allow a bit of thermal wind to build.

The dreaded rubbish on the beach at Kirkdilim Limani

Clear water in Kirkdilim Limani, 4m deep!

In the end we sailed off the anchor at 1200 and beat slowly out of the bay, in fickle winds, finally setting off westwards on a beam reach to do the 10 miles along the coast to Mersin Korfesi, a large bay with at least four suitable anchorages but which one to anchor in has to be determined by where the fish farms are this year. In the event the majority of the fish farms were in the approaches and not in the bay itself, and so we chose the quietest of the anchorages in the small bay in the far NE corner. The anchorage was superb but for the wind farm built all around it. Very few of them were generating, the remainder stood as stationary and stark reminders of the reasons why wind farms are a convenient clover leaf for politicians but do little to provide a continuous and reliable power generation capability. Very few people switch off their electrical appliances because the wind has stopped blowing, hence we still need to be able to meet the full demand from nuclear, coal, oil or gas powered power stations, or when available hydro and tidal power. Wind turbines simply intermittently duplicate existing capacity. You will have guessed I am not a supporter of littering some of the worlds best landscapes with wind turbines!

Mersin Korfesi, spoilt by 30+ wind turbines!

Next morning there was a gentle SE breeze and so we set off under engine to get out of the bay before the wind had a chance to die. 40 minutes later we were racing along, on a close reach, heading for the headland at Ak Burun and then heading north on a broad reach and run, past Cesme, to the almost deserted island of Karaada. A distance of 26 miles. At Karaada we decided to anchor in the western bay, this giving the best shelter from the SW winds that had set in. In the top of the bay, in the NW corner we sailed onto the anchor settling in 5m of water in idyllic surroundings; so idyllic in fact that we decided to stay two days here and do some maintenance.

Karaada, west bay

The following day we restricted ourselves to moving to the eastern bay simply for a change of scenery. This we shared with one other yacht but there is plenty of room for two. Late that evening our peace was disturbed by a large power boat entering at speed, at dusk, wanting to share the anchorage with us. Fortunately, after executing a handbrake turn they decided there was insufficient room for them and departed to go elsewhere leaving peace to descent once more in the anchorage.

Self at Karaada, west bay

The next day it was a gentle sail up to Egri Limani, only just over 6 miles away but being dead upwind it was nearer a 10 mile sail for us. On arrival we anchored in the bay on the western side of the inlet and settled down for a relaxing evening. The village, if it can be called that, consists of a small fishing community but little else. Not even a shop to be seen.

Plastic debris at Agri Liman

For that reason we declined the opportunity to go ashore and set off relatively early the next morning heading for Eskifoca, in the event

Agri Liman at daybreak

light winds led us to decide that we would break the passage and overnight in Yenifoca, on the north end of the Karaburun Peninsula. Yenifoca is a small fishing port and with very little deep water. One of the two possible berths shown on the plan in the Heikell Pilot is no longer deep enough to take a yacht, what was 2m+ is now just 0.5m. The only option is to go alongside the trawlers immediately on the right as you enter. We were very warmly welcomed by the fishermen and grateful for their advice re depths when we tried to back into the now too shallow berth recommended in the pilot. They warmly welcomed us alongside and could not have been more accommodating; notwithstanding the fact that they were leaving four hours after our arrival.

Kurukulla alongside a trawler at Yeni Liman

That night we had a fish supper ashore in the Akdag Restaurant, (recommended in Heikell) which was excellent. The fish was one I did not recognise and might not have chosen without the restaurateurs recommendation, it was an ugly beast, slightly overpriced but delicious all the same.

Dinner at Akdag Restaurant, Yeni Limani

Next morning the departed trawler returned at 0530 and we were up and about quickly, ready to haul off to allow him in alongside the second trawler where we were berthed. We were firmly told not to bother and he berthed across the stern of the other trawler to save us having to move. Amazing consideration considering it was his home and livelihood and we were just visiting! By 1200 that day we had had coffee ashore, purchased some victuals and were ready to set off. We motored out of the harbour and set sail to continue our passage to Eskifoca. The winds were variable between S and N and zero to 20kts, it made for an interesting and at times frustrating sail, but we arrived by 1600 and sailed onto the anchor in the North harbour, adjacent to Orak Adasi. From here we were able to spectate the dingy sailing and windsurfing going on from the Club Med resort on the mainland.

Panorama in Orak Adasi anchorage, Eskifoca

After another peaceful night in the anchorage and we set off relatively early for Akca Limani, 22 miles away, a shallow but interesting looking bay (on the chart at least) at the eastern end of Candarli Korfezi. The passage along the coast was interesting watching the coastline vary between open landscape, small towns and holiday villages and major ship building/breaking yards and oil refineries! Not much variation! On arrival at Akca Limani we sailed gently in, (it was charted at 3m by we recorded just slightly less 2.8m) and into a bay measuring 2.5 by 1.5 miles but all with a maximum depth of 6m; slightly unnerving sailing. That said we successfully anchored in 3m just off Tenasalik Burnu, the site of ancient Gryneum (of which nothing remains) under the sight of two seemingly brand new mosques.

Inside the bay at Akca Limani, two new mosques in one photo!

Having entered successfully through the south channel (there are two entrances to the bay with islands in between) we decided to leave via the north channel. The next morning, in a light NNW breeze we weighed anchor and beat gently up the bay until we could lay the north entrance easily. Set Kurukulla on stbd tack and headed out. The north channel is charted at 3m by Heikell and 3.7m by the Turkish Hydrographic Office. No problem there then. As we approached the entrance at 4kts we noted that as expected the echo sounder recorded 3.5m, 3m, 2.8m. 2.5m by which time we were concentrating hard but as we were in “the channel” there was no obvious place to go but onwards. As 2m came up on the echo sounder Kurukulla came to a gentle and silent halt. Oops! Not to be beaten we started the engine, dropped the sails and put a large, (No2 Genoa) full sailbag and the crew out on the boom to heel Kurukulla over, reduce her draft and get us off. She was having none of it! We were firmly stuck in soft sand and weed. Fortunately a local fishing boat came to see what these two mad sailors were doing and offered us a tow off. We passed them a line and then followed the discussion on where the deeper water might be. Initially they wanted to tow us out via the N entrance but this put us further into the shallows.

Entering Kizkulesi Adasi

Not to be beaten they then summoned a fellow fisherman plus his boat and with one towing from the bow, this time pulling us back the way we had come and the second pulling on the beam, using a line to the masthead to heel us over and reduce our draft, we came off, but not without an hour long struggle. They seemed as pleased as we were with the result and the 150YTL (£37.50) that we gave them for their trouble. So pleased were they in fact that one of them escorted us on our passage down to the southern entrance and through, just to make sure we did not need their services again! Really delightful guys and very helpful. They seemed genuinely surprised at our gift!

From the South Entrance we had a great beat out of Candarli Korfezi to the island of Kizkulesi Adasi, just on the north-western corner of the bay. NW F3 wind and flat seas.

Kizkulesi Adasi

Kurukulla was in her element doing 6kts plus, on the wind, in the flat water. By 1500 we were anchoring in the southerly of the two bays on the west coast of this island. We sailed in, onto the anchor, anchored in 6m and settled down for lunch. All was not going to be quite to plan as notwithstanding the forecast change of wind to the east the wind decided otherwise and went round to SSW giving us less shelter. For that reason, an hour after anchoring, we moved to the other bay only yards away where the shelter might be better. There we stayed the night and by midnight the forecast easterly wind had set in, moving northerly by the early morning thereby affording us a peaceful night. Next morning; however, we awoke to the sound of rain and that persisted, off and on, until 1400. Not what we wanted! Rather than brave the rain (cowardice I know) we decided to stay put and spend another night in the same anchorage. In contrast to the rain earlier in the day the evening was tranquil, dry and pleasant.

The Hamam, Bademli Limani

Next morning dawned cloudy but dry, There was a light NE breeze blowing but one which seemed destined not to last. In consequence we set sail early, sailed off the anchor, beat slowly out the bay and set course for Bademli Limani, notwithstanding the fact that we were only planning to do a 6 mile passage.

The Hamam, Bademli Limani

With the wind dying after the first hour this 6 miles was to take us nearly two hours and we motored the last two miles. Pleasant enough as the sun had now broken through.

On arrival we anchored in the bay adjacent to the natural hot spring which, many years ago, had been converted to an ad hoc Hamam by the addition of a stone building enclosing the hot pool.

Green water in the Hamam, Bademli Limani

Keen to relax in this natural spa, as soon as we were securely anchored, we swam ashore to investigate. When I visited in 2011 the water was slightly cloudy but not unpleasant, in 2015 it was livid emerald green. We decided that the health risks of such water far outweighed the potential benefits and thus we steered well clear; a great shame! Notwithstanding the lack of the Hamam, the bay was dotted with small submerged geysers releasing streams of warm water into the sea. These rising hot currents made swimming warm and pleasurable.

That night we were greeted by the first proper thunderstorm of the season.

Bademli Limani looking north.

Amazing flashes of lightning but fortunately not too close. The winds got up from the NE pushing us offshore and thus we were able to enjoy a comfortable nights rest, despite the conditions. Next morning we set off early heading for the northern entrance of Bademli Limani en route for Ayvalik marina, some 26 miles to windward.

With northerly winds eventually reaching 30 kts at times it was a wet and interesting sail, not least threading through the islands and the channel leading in towards Ayvalik Limani itself.

Sunset at Ayvalik

Notwithstanding the wind we managed to sail up the narrow channel leading into the inland sea at Ayvalik and finally dropped the sails at the marina entrance.

By 1500 we were berthed stern to in the marina and thinking about a late lunch; well deserved we felt!

Away at last, Marmaris to Kusadasi.

As a Marine Engineer I can vouch for the fact that there is little in this world that is more challenging than bringing a ship out of a long maintenance period; or so I thought until I came to try to extract Kurukulla from the grip of the yacht maintenance contractor I had employed in Marmaris. The work list had been with them for 6 months, albeit some items were subject to approval of the estimates. On my arrival, late at night, the first thing I discovered was that Kurukulla had been moved. She was not where I had left her and no one had deigned to warn me.

Chaos on deck, the day we were supposed to launch!

Now in a small boat yard this would not represent a problem but in Marmaris Yacht Marina, at close on midnight, it leaves you with 1500 yacht parking spaces to choose from! Fortunately she was only 60m from where I had left her but even that, on a dark night, in a boat park crowded with a myriad of boats all propped up or on stands, represented a challenge that took 20 minutes to overcome. When I found her the ladder was propped against the side, the cover tucked back to give access, all looked good so far; the only 'minor' problem, evident once I was onboard, was that half of the work had yet to be started and we were only five working days from launching!

By a combination of cajoling, berating and bribing (or at least paying inflated prices) we edged slowly towards completion, two days late and with a significantly lighter wallet than planned, but then who expects running a boat to be painless!

And I thought I had too much onboard Kurukulla!

The upside was that the weather was good, sun with light winds, and the restaurant inside the marina is excellent both in terms of quality and value.

The planned departure date was the 3^rd of May however this was delayed until 5^th May to allow the contractor to finish the majority of the tasks in hand, others we either cancelled, put off for another occasion, or added to my DIY work-list (by far the cheapest way of maintaining a boat), less stressful but far from restful. The problem now was to catch up with a programme that has me arriving in Kusadasi on the 12^th of May, i.e. in time to fly back to UK for my nephew's wedding.

Ready to launch

Departure from Marmaris Yacht Marina at 0700 on Tuesday 5^th of May was painless. All the paperwork had been done the previous day and all that remained was to disconnect and go, not forgetting to pass your departure document to the Marina Staff as you pass their pontoon at the entrance. The wind was light to non existent and so we (Kurukulla and I) motored until outside the entrance to Marmaris Limani before putting the mainsail up, more in hope than expectation! In the event the wind slowly built from the South West (where-else, we were heading in that direction) and so two hours later I unfurled the No 1 Genoa and set Kurukulla on the wind for the first beat to windward of the season. The plan was to get as far west as possible on day one and in the event this proved to be a small bay called Parmak Buku, on the Turkish Coast, just to the north west of the Greek Island of Symi. A delightful bay with pine trees all around and a closed but not deserted hotel on the beach; it had obviously not traded for a while. The bay was open to the south but calm nonetheless and here I anchored in the centre of the bay, in 7m of water, and settled down for the night.

The bay at Parmak Buku

Wednesday dawned sunny and still, it remained this way until 1500 and so I decided that the only way I was going to make it to Knidos today was under engine, and so it was. Knidos is only 12 miles along the coast and for the majority of those 12 miles the wind was non existent, for the last hour the wind built from ahead but at that stage I declined the offer of a beat to windward and continued under motor. In the event the wind peaked at W,16kts, but not for long. By 1700 I was anchored in Buyuk Limani, the harbour at Knidos, looking at the ruins of the ancient city; and again enjoying a flat calm!

The view to wake up to at Knidos

It is quite something to wake up in an anchorage which is in the midst of an ancient Dorian city and then, as your eyes focus, you look across the anchorage where the first thing you see is a 4^th century BC amphitheatre. The night in Knidos had been uneventful. Before sunset I had taken a brief swim to check the anchor, which was well set dug in. During the night the wind had filled in from the north, un-forecast, but had not caused any problems, in fact I departed at 0830 on the last of this N wind. By 1000 it had gone round to NE and I was scudding across the gap between Knodos and the Greek island of Kos at a good pace; for the first half of the transit anyway! It was not to last, as I approached the eastern end of Kos the wind died and for half an hour there was verging on a flat calm, again! When it did return it was fickle, anything between N and W and varying between 4 and 15 kts; these things are sent to try us but it would be nice to be on the right side of at least one wind shift, in a day, when beating to windward! By 1515 I was anchored off the beach on the east coast of Catalada Adasi. This is a good anchorage which affords shelter from all westerly directions. As I anchored the last two tripper boats departed, thus my timing was ideal. From my last visit here I remember the fabulous sunsets visible through the low lying gap between what are almost two separate islands.

The sunset at Catalada Adasi, looking across the beach

Friday 8^th of May dawned, as most of the previous days of this week had, with a very light breeze and a wisp of cloud. The only thing to mark it out as a day of special consequence was the BBC Radio 4 News broadcast (via the internet) announcing the latest results in the UK General Election. The Conservative party looked to be heading for an overall majority or close to it. By 1000 I had heard enough and decided to set off for Cukurcuk, approximately 21 miles north, perforce under engine. An hour later the wind filled in from the W and we had a splendid close reach for the rest of the passage there, topping 7 kts at times. On arrival we sailed into the NW arm of Cukurcuk bay; this inlet hosts a small fishing community but is no longer obstructed by a fish farm. For the first time this year we sailed onto the anchor and settled in 3.5m of water; all in time for a relaxing lunch! The afternoon was spent catching up on some winch maintenance and other chores, all things I had not managed to get done before departure from Marmaris.

The following morning it was a pleasure to wake to the sound of wind whistling through the rigging. A brisk 15 knots of wind was blowing from the N, promising a good beat to windward to the next anchorage, Port St Paul. Apparently during his travels St Paul took shelter here to give his oarsmen a rest, or so it is believed. Once out of the anchorage I set a single reefed main and No 1 Genoa with 4 rolls in, enough for heading to windward in 20 kts relative. As ever in this area it was not to last. The beat started on stbd tack, heading NW and ended on port tack heading ….. you've guessed it NW. In between was half an hour of frustration whilst the wind veered and backed at random and gusted from 5 to 25 kts! Another example of the joys of sailing in the Med! Having said that it was a relatively quick passage and the majority was at better than 6 kts. Wanting to tuck myself in as far into the bay as the shallows would allow I entered Port St Paul under engine and anchored in 4m in the centre of the inlet; the only boat there. Time for a slightly late lunch and a relaxing afternoon.

Being now only 20 miles from Kusadasi, the pick up point for my first guest of the year and the marina where I am due to leave Kurukulla for three days for a flying (literally) visit back to UK to attend the wedding of my nephew, the pressure is now off and so the plan is to stay here for a pair of days before heading into Kusadasi Marina.

Port St Paul, about as far in as you can anchor

In the three nights in Port St Paul I saw only one other boat. A yacht came in on the second night and spent the night at anchor 100m astern of me. Beyond that I did not see another soul. After the chaos of my time in Marmaris Marina it was bliss! Peace and solitude and a chance to get things straight. My timing was not bad either, a near gale, F7, blew through in the time that I was anchored there and, notwithstanding the warning in the Heikell Pilot, the holding was good. In fact it was quite an effort to get the anchor to break out on departure!

Kurukulla nestled in at Kusadasi Marina

On Tuesday morning I set off for Kusadasi Marina, the wind was very light and contrary and so notwithstanding the F7 of the days previous it was necessary to motor. Three and a half hours later I arrived, berthed where told and checked in at the marina office. Kusadasi is a very smart marina; much smaller and less busy than Marmaris! All of this was just in time, for the rest of the day was to be spoilt by a torrential downpour and intermittent thunder. I retired below to read my book!

More when we depart.

Mykonos to Marmaris. End of the road for 2014.

Super Paradise from Jackie O's

After a prolonged stay in Mykonos, to replace the engine, and with two days of trials completed I finally set off on the 8^th of October, single handed, heading south east on the last leg towards the winter lay up venue of Marmaris. Having spent the night anchored in Elia bay I awoke to 20 kts of northerly wind, just as forecast, and was well placed to sail off the anchor and head off, under No2 genoa alone, for the Island of Dhenoussa. The 28 mile passage was completed in 4.5 hours despite not putting up the mainsail! I chose the anchorage at Ormos Dhendro due to its better shelter from northerlies, especially important as northerly, 50+ knot, gusts were forecast for the night ahead.

Ormos Dhendro, Dhenoussa (showing the wreck outline)

In fact the near gale force winds and 50+ knot gusts lasted for the next three days and as a consequence I spent four nights here in this very pretty and almost deserted anchorage. With just one seasonal taverna for company one can have too much of a good thing; however, to venture out into the high winds and seas visible from my sheltered haven would have been foolish, if it was not absolutely necessary, and I had plenty of time in hand to get back to Marmaris. On the final day the wind abated enough to leave Kurukulla on her anchor, unattended, and I at last swam ashore to sample the delights of the taverna (best Moussaka I have had in Greece) and to spend some time on dry land, sunning myself on the almost deserted beach.

Self at the taverna on Ormos Dhendro, Dhenoussa

Marked on the chart in the Heikell pilot is an undefined wreck on the NW side of the bay; in fact what remains of it it lies parallel to the beach in the centre of the bay in 3m of water. It is an old WWII German coaster which was on a resupply run to the island when it was sunk by two British bombers. The majority of the cargo and the above water parts of the ship were later salvaged/scrapped leaving the remains to sink into the sand, which they now are. Having swum over the whole wreck she now has a least depth of 1.5m over her highest parts, can be clearly seen and lies roughly on the 3m line across the bay.

Ormos Levitha at sunset

On the morning of the 13^th I set sail again in a gentle NNW wind which carried me swiftly down towards my next stopover, the island of Levithia. I arrived at 1415 to find I was not the only yacht in the area. There are moorings laid in the east bay of Ormos Levithia (€7 per night) and one other yacht was already there, a second entered shortly after me. Peaceful all the same. What made it even more peaceful was that not a single mobile phone signal was detectable in the anchorage!

Next morning I set off relatively early, well early for me, 0800, to complete the transit from Cyclades to Dodecanese. My plan was to be in Kalimnos by mid afternoon. The crossing was quiet, 2 ships and three yachts sighted in total, and benefited from a gentle NNW breeze; 4 – 5 knots all the way on a beam reach. By 1400 I was berthed stern to on the town quay in Kalimnos town.

Derelict vessels (and vehicles) in the abandoned marina project.

The marina project, paid for by the EU, has been abandoned and is occupied by a variety of abandoned or derelict craft. No sign of the pontoons or facilities promised in the Heikell Pilot. On the other hand the local municipality has built a new yacht berthing area on the NW side of the harbour, sufficient for 30 odd yachts, so I suppose this is progress. The town quay, on the other hand, is now mostly occupied by local boats and so I suppose I was lucky to find a spot.

The next day I spent the morning on re-victualling and sorting the boat out. One thing I bought was a Vodafone data card to give me a final 2Gb of data connectivity prior to leaving Greece, it lasted less than 24hrs!

Kurukulla, stern to on the town quay, Kalimnos

There is no way that I can have used 2Gb in that time. It repeats the experience I had with Vodafone data in Crete, there is something in their system that doesn't add up; your allowance evaporates when you are not connected! I have ditched the SIM card overboard! Cosmote next time!

At 1400 I set off for a night in the anchorage on the S side of Pserimos, in virtually no wind it was an hour plus long motor. Boring but necessary. By 1530 I was anchored in the southern bay and enjoying a swim in the mirror clear waters of the bay. The night was equally calm and I awoke to completely still conditions. Sailing being a non starter I decided to spend another night here and settled down for a quiet day; however, by 1600 the wind started to get up from the west and so I moved the short distance to Ormos Vathi on the east coast of the island which was completely sheltered. It was too late to go any further.

The anchorage was shared with five other yachts and so I wasn't the only one to think this anchorage was ideal for tonight. More yachts than I have seen for a week!

The harbour at Palon, Niseros; showing the new entrance

By next morning I had eight neighbours, some had arrived after me. I was the first to leave and set off on oily calm seas to head to Palon on the island of Niseros some 35 miles away. The wind showed some interest in increasing as I rounded the eastern end of Kos but only briefly; just long enough to persuade me to put the mainsail up! This was almost a complete waste of time as by the time it was up the wind had disappeared again; however, the last hour and a half of the sail turned into a close fetch in a decent breeze so all was not lost!

On arrival at Palon it was obvious that the harbour entrance was not where either the chart or the pilot said it was. The EU had fronted up with €2,880,000 eight years ago to redevelop the harbour, including relocating the entrance to provide better shelter, and it seems to have worked.

The new yacht berths in the Palon harbour

On arrival I was greeted by a helpful attendant who for €5 connected me to power and offered me water if I wanted it. A community that are actually using the EU money for what it was intended! Even if it does equate to €288,000 per permanent head of population in the village. It is an enchanting place so I mustn't complain, much! Palon is also home to the old Hydropathic Institute which is a very impressive building, sadly now derelict and disused, there must be a use for it somewhere? The village is delightful and the people exceptionally welcoming. Berthed next to me was an Irish yacht and after a brief conversation we decided to dine ashore together,

The cost of the harbour upgrade but this time money well spent.

John and Sean were members of the Irish Cruising Club and we had a good evening together swapping sailing stories, concluding with a Metaxa nightcap on their boat. Thank you John and Sean.

Next day, when I roused myself for my customary morning cup of tea, they had already gone, headed north for their winter layup venue. After a brief walk ashore, to buy bread from the local bakery and some fruit from the general store, I too set off but eastwards towards Simi. Initially under engine for want of wind but within the hour the wind roused itself and we were then barrelling downwind at 5 to 6 knots. Two hours later I had two reefs in the main and part of the genoa furled. The promised strong winds had arrived.

The now derelict Hydropathic Institute

Thus it was that we arrived in Panormitis, the most beautiful and best protected anchorage in Simi. It was here that I had chosen to sit out the forecast 30+ knot winds of Saturday night and Sunday. I chose my anchorage with care to make sure no one could drag onto me and that I was not a risk to anyone else. There were only four other boats in the bay. The next boat to arrive then anchored close and directly upwind of me, just my luck. There was a whole empty bay to anchor in, but no, they had to anchor on top of me! My stare of disbelief was insufficient to encourage them to move and so I had to content myself with photographing their stern, just to make sure I had their details.

Panormitis, Symi

It has happened to me before that another boat has dragged on to me in the night, causing damage, and then sailed before exchanging insurance details. Sure enough, at 0245, I awoke to the sound of a particularly severe gust, followed in the lull by an alarm sounding. I decided to check that all was well. On sticking my head out the hatch I realised I had been extremely lucky, the Greek registered, Russian crewed, charter boat was virtually alongside me, their anchor drag alarm bleeping away, a boats width away! A quick grab of a torch and I illuminated their boat trying to get some reaction. Fortunately one of their crew members was asleep in the cockpit; she looked up, and notwithstanding I could see the whites of her eyes, rolled over to go back to sleep! My subsequent, rather more colourful, explanation that they would have to move, seemed to get more reaction; she roused the skipper and within seconds he had their engine running and was on the move. Only just in time, during his departing manoeuvre he missed my bow by less than a metre! I watched them until I was happy that they were re-anchored 75m away; not trusting them not to try and re-anchor in the same place. The old adage “in the Mediterranean there is little more dangerous than a charter boat” proved true again!

The next day dawned windy and with a North Force 8 forecast I determined to stay put. At 0600 the loudspeakers on the monastery started broadcasting the first of the Sunday services, as I type at 0940 it is still continuing, the chants sound anything but musical! Later in the day there was a full Greek wedding in the chapel, quite a sight to see. The only local restaurant of any size was then the venue for the reception, they must do quite well out of it! The subsequent night was also gusty and at least two boats collided due to dragging anchors, (I overheard the apologies being offered the next morning!).

My favourite restaurant in Symi, "To Spitiko"

I chose to depart at 1030 and go south about the island, motoring initially until I could put Kurukulla on port tack to clear the SE corner of the island. We passed the point steering 045 and over the next hour the wind backed such that we were still on port tack but steering 315 as we entered the bay, heading for Symi;one quick tack and we were in. By 1400 I was seated just behind Kurukulla and enjoying lunch in “To Spitiko”, my favourite restaurant. Later in the afternoon I went to Immigration Police and Port Police offices to formally exit Greece, thus I was ready for an early departure the next day. In discussion with the Port Police I discovered that the construction work, taking place just outside the present harbour limits, was a new cruise liner jetty, all funded by the EU. I suspect the magic nature of Symi is about to be lost forever!

Tuesday dawned with brilliant sunshine but no wind! It was a gentle departure, only slightly delayed by the charter boat which had berthed next to me laying his anchor chain across mine. When you are single handed such things just become that bit more complicated to resolve; however, within a few minutes I had a line on his chain and managed to disentangle myself from him. They just spectated, bemused. No apology and no thanks either!

Approaching Marmaris in oily calm seas.

Once underway it was a brief stop at the fuelling jetty (diesel is cheaper in Greece) followed by a six hour motor to Marmaris. Beyond the odd cat's paw on the surface there was no wind! Pleasant nonetheless. That night I anchored just outside Marmaris Yacht Marine and spent the evening planning in what order to take on the laying up tasks of the next seven days. Plenty to do but the weather was not looking to co-operate. The benign forecasts of three days back had been replaced by strong southerly winds and rain; oh joy! Sure enough next morning dawned threateningly grey and windy. I headed for the quarantine jetty at the ferry terminal, for myself and Kurukulla to enter Turkey officially, (you and the boat now have to physically go there rather than as before when the agent did it all for you whilst you sipped gin at the marina bar!) after which I headed on to Yacht Marine to put her into her last afloat berth for this year.

Awaiting liftout....And it rained!

Despite a cross wind we slotted in neatly between a Russian live aboard couple and another boat which was obviously laid up already (but not in a berth I would have accepted for spending the whole winter in, rather too exposed. Right on the end of a pontoon!).

The lift out passed without a hitch, notwithstanding the torrential rain that soaked everyone and everything! Kurukulla is now parked ashore, on a stand, in the midst of a vast boat park snug in her winter cover. The end of another season.

Kurukulla, snug under her winter cover!

Only the joys of a late night Monarch Airlines flight, back to Gatwick, to look forward to...

More next April, or soon after.

Corinth canal to …... Clunk!

On passage through the canal

On Saturday September the 6^th we set off from Corinth harbour to make the canal transit. A quick radio call on channel 11 put us on the list to transit and we were invited to take station outside the western entrance to the canal. 20 minutes later a single sailing vessel completed the westbound transit and we were invited to follow one motor yacht into the canal for the subsequent eastbound transit. Hardly a busy day. The canal is impressive when viewed from sea level but in some areas the ravages of time and passage of canal max. vessels is evidently taking its toll. Our transit was achieved with no dramas and after 30 minutes we were safely alongside the canal offices paying our dues, €175.

From here we headed for Korfos, on the Peloponnese east coast, arriving just in time for a swim before sunset. The anchorage here is well protected and served by several tavernas etc. around the bay.

Next morning we were greeted by rain clouds and a succession of heavy showers. By mid day the worst had passed and we sailed off the anchor to head for the island of Aigina. En route we stopped for lunch at the island of Kyra and anchored on the southern tip. Not a very secure anchorage but good enough for a lunchtime stop.

Anchorage in SW bay of Angistri

As the afternoon progressed the rain clouds again gathered and we decided to head for the rather more protected anchorage on the SW tip of Angistri. This bay is closed by an island across the entrance and, given the thunderstorms that ensued that night, we made a good decision. Anchored with 60m out and snugly tied back to the rocks we were able to watch the spectacular display of thunder and lightning without worrying about our security.

From here we had to make it to the Piraeus area next day to drop off Steve for his flight home. Our course took us to the south of Aigina and then across the shipping lanes heading for the coast to the east of Piraeus. We settled on Alimos Marina as a place to spend the night; this would allow us to re-victual and for me to do an engine oil change which was now due. By early afternoon next day we were ready to move on and made a late afternoon dash for the small enclosed bay just west of Varkiza. Although reportedly good holding it took us four attempts to get the anchor to hold; the available space to anchor is quite constrained by depth and a marked swimming area. Once secure we spent a comfortable night and made an unhurried start next day towards Cape Sounion.

Sounion

After an easy sail we anchored off the western beach at Sounion, with two other yachts, anchoring under sail between the two of them. Next morning we moved over to nearer the beach under the Temple on the Cape and anchored on the edge of the swimming area to facilitate getting ashore to visit the temple. Another Greek archaeological site being reconstructed with EU money! I know that the more complete the ruins the more tourists they pull in but it is getting to the stage where they might just as well build replicas! I am not a fan of reconstruction. Following the visit to the “ruins” we set off north to the bay of Tourkolimani for a pleasant overnight stop and then next day pushed north again to Porto Rafti where two further friends were to join, Chris and Anthony.

Tourkolimani with the full moon rising behind the church

We managed to find a berth, inside the quay, alongside another local boat making getting ashore easy and they arrived safely in the early evening.

Next day we managed to re-victual and a further addition to the crew, Nikos joined us for a day sail. From Porto Rafti we set off for an anchorage on the east side of the island of Makronisi where we found a beautiful bay to anchor in, even if it was subject to a slight swell, causing us to roll whenever Kurukulla swung beam on. Lunch here and a pleasant afternoon in the sun and then we headed back to Tourkolimani to drop off Nikos (he had pre-positioned his car) and for Simon to depart as well.

On Sunday 14^th of September we sailed off the anchor and headed east, out into the Cyclades, and the stronger winds to be expected there. Our first stop was to be Nisos Kea and the anchorage at Ornos Kavia some 16 miles away. After a brisk reach to clear the north end of Makronisi we eased off onto a broad reach and headed to our destination, anchoring under sail in time for a late-ish lunch. A very satisfying sail! With 24hours to spare before Jason, the next crew member, arrived we decided to circumnavigate the island. Next morning we set off southwards in a light breeze to round the southern tip of the island and thence work our way north. En route we anchored for lunch in the remote and unpopulated bay at Ormos Polais, under the walls of ancient Karathia.

Ancient Karthaia (being rebuilt)

If we thought the reconstruction at Sounion was inappropriate then this example took first prize. It has no transport connections to bring in tourists and some parts looked like the beginnings of a rather poor taste housing development! What was more upsetting was that the EU had contributed €900,000 to rebuilding it!

From here we headed north rounding the top of the island as sunset approached. As the sun set we dropped the anchor in Ormos Voukari, in the shadow of a small church, within the bay of Limin Ay Nikolaou. Next morning we motored across the bay to Korissia and berthed stern to re-victual,

Stern to at Korissia

water ship, and await the arrival of the 1000 ferry with Jason onboard. With all this successfully achieved we headed again for Ornos Kavia to enjoy a peaceful lunch before heading out for a rather more challenging sail across to Ormos Kolona in Kithnos. Ormos Kolona has the advantages of being well protected from all but the west and having two hot springs that run, or more accurately trickle, into the bay. Very relaxing to bathe in.

Hot spring at Ornos Kolona, Kithnos

Next morning, after a final swim, we set off to Siros and selected the most northerly anchorage of the island, at Ormos Grammata, in order to avoid a long beat to windward the morning after when we needed to get round the northern tip of the island. The anchorage was not great, very strong gusts coming down off the hills and at the western end was poor holding and deep. We chose the western end to anchor as the gusts seemed less strong in that part of the bay however next morning we moved over to the eastern part to benefit from the better holding and shallower water.

This was definitely the better end of the anchorage! Not only that but we were serenaded from the shore by someone playing a saxophone. There was some sort of settlement there but we never found out who or what.

From here it was round the northern tip and a beam reach to Tinos, a brilliant sail and at an average of 7.6kts. By mid afternoon we were med. moored in Tinos harbour (we managed to get the last available space) and were planning our meal ashore that night. Our choice of restaurant was the subject of some entertainment.

Dinner out in Tinos

As ever in Greece restaurants line the sides of the streets and walkways and we were accosted by the usual “hookers” used to persuade you to eat in their restaurant. When stopping to look at a proffered menu we had unknowingly walked onto the “territory” of the adjacent restaurant. The owner took severe exception to the “poaching” of clients on his patch and robustly made his views known. That decided it, his rudeness and aggressive attitude ensured that even if we weren't planning to eat at the previous restaurant we sure as hell were going to now! His face was a picture as we took our seats. To rub salt in the wound we also breakfasted there the next day!

By mid day all our necessary victualling etc. was done and we set off for Mykonos. In light of the northerly winds forecast we headed for the anchorage at Ornos Elia where there is plenty of space and the holding is good.

En route, Rinia

Next day we sailed across to Rinia to anchor overnight in a bay sheltered from the now forecast southerly wind and then after a day spent at anchor in Rinia we circumnavigated Delos to get a look at the ruins (we would have anchored and visited but they are closed on Mondays) and then back to Mykonos marina to enable Christoph and Jason to catch their flight back to UK the next day. That same day the next crew member, Matt, joined but the forecast was so poor (N gusting 50kts – who said the Meltemi stops in early September) that we did a tour of the island in the hire car rather than go to sea. Once the worst had blown through we returned to the anchorage at Elia for what was planned to be the next 48 hours returning to Mykonos Marina on the day before Chris and Anthony were also due to depart.

Ancient Delos

As we prepared to depart in very light winds I went to start the engine, it fired twice and came to an instantaneous stop emitting a very expensive sounding “CLUNK”. A quick inspection showed that the engine was absolutely solid, either it had dropped a valve or water had gotten into a cylinder causing a hydraulic lock. Whichever it was, it was not good news. With no wind to sail her into harbour we settled down for another, unplanned, night at anchor and waited for the forecast south wind to set in. By early morning it had done so and so we sailed off the anchor, enjoyed a spanking good sail round to Mykonos and then set about preparing to sail her into the marina. Not a task for the faint hearted! After two close passes across the marina entrance, for us to try to spot a suitable berth to sail into, we double reefed the main, rolled up half of the genoa and headed in.

The berth we sailed into...

No turning back from this point! As luck would have it there was a single space available alongside the wall in the southern section of the marina. Slightly to the alarm of those already moored in there, we sailed in, gybed round, fully rolled the genoa, turned towards the empty berth and dropped the main. Kurukulla just carried her way sufficiently to gently nudge into the berth and some quick work by the crew jumping ashore brought her gently alongside in the berth.

Matt was due to leave from Mykonos two days later and, sadly for him, Doug, the final crew member of the year was programmed to join here but he was never to get out of the harbour. By working the phones and asking around I identified an engineering company in Mykonos town who were capable of removing the engine for inspection. From what I witnessed I would not recommend Mykonos Marine for their engineering standards but they were quick and willing. By late afternoon the engine was out and by early evening the extent of the damage was evident. The choice was a lengthy repair with the engine rebuilt locally or a new engine (the second in 4 years) available from Athens. For the difference in costs and to give me confidence in the repair I opted for the new engine; another Sole Mini 33 (a marinised Mitsubishi engine). In three days the new engine was installed, the old engine is now being crated up for shipping to UK for repair and I am off out on sea trials tomorrow. My only worry is that we still do not know the precise way in which water entered the old engine. Suspicion falls on the exhaust elbow where raw cooling water and exhaust gases mix, but this has yet to be proven.

More when I get back!